Відео

did you get better temps?

Can i compare 2 pico 160w becom 1 pico 320w

I've just done this ( i made an adapter from that 2 pin to the adapter noctua includes), but the fan won't start on its own. I have to blow on it to start it

Estimating the power of pcpartpicker is really bad. I realize this video is 3 years old, but it told me my config for a NAS draws around 205W of power.... In idle I got it down to around 28W, which is close to 1/10th of the powerdraw pcpartpicker said. Even under load, it never got above 100W. Comparing the size of the pico psu against a normal PSU but leaving out the external power brick you´ll still need is a bit disingenious.

Ullrich Views

guess I can leave more than one comment :) Thanks again Pal

Great video, thank you so much

I tried to change the fan in my sh570 barebone shuttle, but the noctua fan has other dimensions and a much lower airflow. Also different voltages to start the fan moving. The original fan rotates at round about 4 volt and noctua at 7 V (The supply starts with 5 V). The best way is a little resistor (with original fan) at 20 to 40 ohms, i tried a little, because the fan needs a little current for a correct start (maybe two 40 ohm resistors parallel). When the computer needs more load (rendering or something) the fans spins up, depending on the temperature and it seems, this will work for me (-:

dude, thanks! my psu now is super quiet!!!

The obvious downside is: cut the cables, and short them 💀, so you need stronger cables or wireless setup

I did the mod few months ago and everything was wonking flawlessly furing the colder months. However now the PSU is overheating, the Noctua fan it is not enough for a Flex 650W PSU during the summer months in my region. Room temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius and when the computer is under heavy load for a couple of hours the system shutdown, I have to wait few minutes before the PSU functions again. Swapping back to the original fan even though it's noisier...at least for the summer.

I got this working with a 1100 watt Juniper power supply this evening. The power supply definitely runs more toasty and I'm getting around a 60% reduction in airflow and static pressure compared to the original Nidec UltraFlo W40S12BS1D5 that was installed with the unit. Worth it to get rid of that 60 decibel jet engine, though now I have to figure out how to swap out the fans on the chassis - because those are the loudest ones when the switch is heating up. Edit: I swapped out all fans but I have them on a separate power supply because of difficulties with the fan modules. I have an old 2015 Junos build on my switch (EX-4300-48P) that doesn't have a bug fix for unrecognized fans when the RPM is out of range, so I couldn't use the modules - although I did rewire one module and it did power the fans. Running two Noctua NF-A4x20 fans in series for the power supply seems to sufficiently cool it but I do not have a permanent solution for it, since it does add some bulk to the power supply that I haven't been able to make modular yet. I was able to run this power supply with a legitimate load for an hour and it didn't get to the point where it was concerning so I think that was a success. I also ran two NF-A4x20 fans in parallel, in place of the old fan modules. This seemed to keep the switch at 60 degrees Celsius under low load which is a good sign, but I plan to buy another NF-A4x20 fan and run that fan in series with the existing fans, which hopefully should increase static pressure tremendously and slightly improve airflow. Also, taking a bit of a risk here, but adding an extra volt to the fans seemed to help tremendously, but overvolt at your own risk. I know what I'm doing with electricity so I'm comfortable overvolting my equipment and I'm prepared for emergencies. If you ever mess with juniper equipment, just make sure you got the wires correct. You can use a multimeter to find out what pins are your power, and what pin refers to your tachometer. I crossed the PWM and tachometer wires because the color coding was different and it was causing the PSU to automatically shut down after a few seconds of operation. I wouldn't recommend doing this on enterprise equipment that requires higher airflow and static pressure because you could overheat your power supply. I only did this on my switch's power supply because I know I'm only going to be pulling ~100 watts on that supply. I could have bought a cheaper PSU that draws less current and I probably will in the future, but this is my solution for now. I haven't ran it enough for me to ensure it runs safely yet either (see edit); I'm just adding more load to it gradually to find its sweet spot. Definitely something I am not comfortable running overnight yet! The supply is pretty smart; it might shut down automatically if it overheats but I'm not entirely sure (couldn't find any datasheets that mentioned overheat protection). But I'll be watching it and if it runs fine for a couple of hours then I'm sure it'll be fine. Edit 2: Stacked noctua fans in place of the old airflow modules. Tapped into the power supply fan header for a 12v fan supply, ran it out of the PSU and made DuPont connectors, then hooked them up. No fan status but no big deal. The box runs at around 50C idle. Success!

hey there, this might sound like a strange question, and I know it's been a while, but could you tell me how much it weighs? I'm trying to build a PC I plan on strapping to my side and have a screen mounted on my arm, making it a wearable PC. I want a case as small as possible, but I would also like it relatively light as it is meant to be worn. Any help is appreciated :)

Most satisfying video I've watched today

Really? You can live with that! I use a server, can't even hear my self think sometimes, whe under load, and people are complaining about a tiny little power supply fan.......... bruh

Is it possible to use pico psu without the 24pin connector? I have 4 hdd case that i need to power up only the drives. Or is there any other kind of psu that would be better?

Thanks my dear

Oops I dropped the book!

Did you fix it? How are you doing? I am curious.

why not solder the wires of those 2 connectors and sime shrinking tube?! Or better change connector type on Noctua by crimping 🤔💭😇

Thanks for pointing out how to use the Scotchloks. Was preparing to solder stuff when I found your video 😉I replaced a Delta EFB0412HD 40x40x20mm fan in a PSU with a Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX. My issue with it was not so much the noise level but more the frequency of the noise. The Noctua makes a lot less noise since it runs at a lower speed at the same voltage, but more importantly the frequency is different and much more bearable. The airflow and static pressure of the two fans do differ if you look at the specs: the Delta delivers 14,59 m3/h, 7,69 mmH2O, 28,5 dB(A) @ 7600 RPM. The Noctua instead does 9,4 m3/h, 2,26 mmH2O, 14,9 dB(A) @ 5000 RPM. So in terms of airspeed the Noctua delivers about 60% of what the Delta does. In terms of static pressure the Noctua delivers only 30%. I think it's this last spec that makes for the low measures noise level. Personally I estimate this will not cause any issues since the PSU I exchanged the fan in is utilized so little. It's a 200W PSU but it only needs to deliver 30-40W. The relatively stable climate in the room it's in helps.

Thany you

If you had the space, why not make it tall enough for quiet 140mm fans instead of a small one that makes a lot more noise? Cool idea though.

hello exist dc-dc power suply for gaming pc ?!

I have 2x 300W picopsus, neither will power on a low power Intel n100 motherboard that works fine with a normal PSU. Without load the outputs all show correct voltages. What could the problem be?

brother, can I just use something like "Goobay FanPower 3p-2p M/F 0.3m"? copy/paste name in the internet

Good tutorial. Thank you.

did anyone did this with a fsp psu ?

Should have used flushed screws and cover it with rubber pads. Otherwise that's a beautiful build

Cool, simple and elegant

I feel like there's some good backstory on how you came up with this idea 😂

Been wondering how a fan placed exactly like that to replace a blower would perform, and now I have the answer. You'd need a fan with a significant static pressure to achieve any results this way it seems. Or like someone else said, attaching a fan at the exhaust could be interesting too. Thanks for the video!

Can you conect it directly to a car battery?

Instead of Connecting the 3-pin Noctua to the Omnijoin Adapter, then through the Skotchlock connectors, and finally into the original 2-pin connector. Would it be possible to just cut the 3-pin connector off the Noctua, and connect the red/black wires directly to the 2-pin connector (using the Skotchlocks), and just wrap the third wire so it's not used?

You need to check the polarity too. Some PSUs are using revesre polarity on the 2 pin connector(like the In Win Chopins built in PSU).

Thank you so much!!!!

термос для пк

you really have a lot of trhill to touch psu components i see, nice move.

Connect it to sys_fan

Great video, good explanation. Thanks!

notice the current on the current rating on the original fan is 0.18 amps its 2.16 watts and the noctua is 0.05 amps thats only 0.6 watts so less then1/3 the power, it will deffinantly be a lot quieter but i would not put much load on that power supply for to long because at 1/3 the air flow it will heat up and die.

Super simple, quick video that solved exactly the problem I had. Thanks!

I can't open the code attached under the clip, can you ask again?

What's the name of 24pin to power adapter

This would be a good idea with a PIR sensor to turn on the PC when you enter the room.

If you're replacement fan doesn't have an adapter (only three bear wires), which wires on the new fan would you tie your old fan? Just the red and black?

what good is it if you still need a frigging power brick???

nice one!!

Are you a giraffe, by chance?

Can i run it from my car battrey