Відео

Hi! Ok, you have the version between the early and late model that I show in my series. It will go together a lot like the Singer Featherweight. You will find a video in my Singer Featherweight series and it will go in the same way. You won’t have to reassemble the feed regulator like you do on the Featherweight (yours is one solid piece) but it will go back on the feed fork the same way. Here is a link to that video: How to install the feed regulator on a Singer Featherweight: Singer Featherweight Series Part 10 ua-cam.com/video/0CgQ4NWzCXQ/v-deo.html

@@SewingMachineRehab Thank you!!!

You're very welcome! I hope you love your new machine!

To answer my own question, I spent the morning cleaning an old Singer 328K beige painted machine. It had old crusty dark orange-brown oil and dirt caked on everywhere. The lamp oil took it right off without damaging the paint. I used wooden Q-tips and paper towels. Some area and edges were hard to get to, so I broke off the end of the Qtip amd used the wooden/bamboo end dipped in lamp oil to scrub it gently and again took it off nicely. I also wiped down the bakelight plastic and plastic tension knob ring. It cleaned the dirt and didn't bother the paint. The bakelight and chrome corrosion bloom also polished up nicely. It dried nicely with a clean paper towel without leaving an oily residue or nasty kerosene smell. So I'm gonna call smokeless scentless parrafin lamp oil a win!

Thank you for the tip! I have some on hand and I am going to give it a try! Would be nice to recommend something that isn’t so smelly!

Hi! You can look on McMaster Carr for firm felt cord and use that. I think you have to purchase 10ft at a time. Just make sure that the diameter matches whatever you need for each motor. I hope that helps!

@ thank you so much

You’ve got a treasure in your hands! I wish you the best sprucing her up!

Great combo! Wish more of my screwdrivers were square shanked. Would be so useful!

I Hope you find them helpful! If you are powder coating, be careful! A customer once sent me a machine that was powder coated and the coating got in places it shouldn’t. It was really difficult to get it removed without damaging the coating around it. Plug the holes and you should be good to go. Be really careful around where the needle plate sets. Also…if you can get the rock shafts out that will be a good thing. If you plan on painting the motor housing and want some help with getting it fully disassembled for painting, email me at jen@sewingmachinerehab.com and I will help. I hope your mom’s machine turns out beautiful and you have a ton of fun painting it for her!

@@SewingMachineRehab Thanks for the reply and tips! We're a custom coating shop so we do really nth degree prep/masking/plugging and I've done one Featherweight in the past (disassembled by the client). It was def tedious masking to have it all fit like factory but worth it! If the motor housing gives me grief I'll reach out. Are you in Utah by chance?

Hi! I would say that the biggest challenge will be keeping all the oil ports clear of gunk. The only plastic (bakelite) will be on the motor. And the belt as you mentioned. If you haven’t already, check out Promethean Sewing Machines. She put her cast iron machines in tanks. She started out with a water electrolysis set up but now she uses a chemical stripper. (She paints some of my machines and I have been to her shop) When you are “rinsing” the machine don’t use water. You will get flash rust in places you can’t see. Acetone should work but flush out all those ports! They will get really gummy if you don’t with all the dissolved paint trapped in them. My email is jen@sewingmachinerehab.com please feel free to reach out if you have any questions and send me a pic of your finished machine!

You are welcome! Your stitch length indicator should be on the right, you will see a lever with numbers. I haven’t made a video on where to oil but I will be doing that in the future!

I think I answered your similar comment in another place but yes. I found the clip when I was cleaning up. I would recommend the zip ties for anyone using new wiring like I did. The old clip was hard to get on. Thanks for pointing it out though!

@SewingMachineRehab yes, the zip ties are a good solution.

@SewingMachineRehab Not all creators see comments. I wanted to make sure anyone following along and doing this read my comment because I know by other comments you have made you dont want anyone hurt doing this. I wish the older style speed controller case was able to be used and put the electronic control inside it because I prefer the original speed control pedal for it's weight, meaning its not as appt to move around or slide around. I have a lead foot...lol

Wow! So happy for you, great job! Humbled that I was able to help, it was all you thought! Thank you so much for your kind words and following along. Congratulations!!

There were a few different versions of them. I tried to choose the most common ones but I couldn’t cover all of them. I hope you find at least some of the videos helpful!

@ Absolutely! Your videos are great! Thanks again!

You’re very welcome!

I think the late 99 series will help you with your Spartan. Without seeing the machine it is hard for me to diagnose what the sound could be. You can email video to jen@sewingmachinerehab.com if you would like!

Hi! How nice of you to help your friend! Hm, I haven’t had a loose plug like that. I’d need to look at it myself. It may be that there is a way to compress the female part of the plug so that it fits snug again but I am not sure. I will have to get out one of my 301’s and look!

Oh my! I am so glad you figured it out! Good job! I hope you can just enjoy sewing now. 😊

Hi! Well the 99 is the mini version of the 66 so you will find a lot of mechanical similarities. If you are looking for more treadle info you may find it on my friend Marie’s channel, Promethean Sewing Machines. She is the treadle queen! I hope that helps!

You’re very welcome!

Hi! If you can email me a picture of the parts you are talking about to jen@sewingmachinerehab.com that would be best. Then I can be sure I am pointing you in the right direction. I will try to help however I can!

Hi! I use Kroil, nothing else. Once you find “the one” you stop trying new products. 😊 Of course I use regular sewing machine oil for just standard lubrication. Glad you are enjoying the videos!

@ Thanks!

Hi! You might need to email me a picture and a little more info on the problem. Could be a tension issue or could be something else. My email is jen@sewingmachinerehab.com I will try to help if I can!

Hi! To get the hand wheel off you only need to remove the screw for the stop motion knob, the stop motion knob and then the washer, in that order. The hand wheel can be on there a little tight so you may need to tug on it a bit. Let me know if you are still having a problem and I will try to help!

Hi! Well, a few things. The 201-2 is heavier since it is cast iron. The 301 has the handle on top and is made of aluminum so it is lighter. The 301 also doesn't need to be put into a base of any kind, it is a table top machine. You can also drop the feed dogs on the 301 without flipping it over, that adjustment is made from the bottom on the 201 so you have to flip it. The 301 is totally gear driven and the 201 is belt and gear driven. Those are the biggest differences in my opinion. I hope that helps!

Hi! When they are stuck like that I will hold the hand wheel and use non marring pliers on the hook shaft to see if I can get it to free that way. Usually that does the trick. Let me know if you are still struggling!

Thank you for the suggestion. I will give that a try once I purchase a pair and report back. I’m not sure what I did during the process of taking the machine apart to have that happen. I thought I might’ve made an error when putting it back together but I retraced my steps and everything seems right. After I installed the needle bar and go to test with the needle down at the lowest setting, the jib/hook are at the 7-8 o’clock position instead of 12 o’clock so the needle ends up hitting the hook body.

You are so welcome!

This comment made my day! I enjoyed reading it so much and even shared it with my husband. Congratulations on your restoration and I am humbled to have been a part of it. Wishing you the best with your 99!

@@SewingMachineRehab It was a real pleasure reading your reply, you are very kind. I'm a retired Prof. and HOD Microbiology - hypothetically, if I was not retired and was in charge of a Sewing Machine Department instead, I'd definitely send out the head-hunters to tempt you with a Senior Lecturer position! Thank you again for all your help, please keep up your excellent explanatory work, and I may also say that I'm certainly looking forward to seeing any future 201K videos that you may present.

Hi Diane! You know you can just text or call me. 😉 Let me know if I can help!

I think I answered your other comment but just in case you need it again, amzn.to/4g8prti that is where I got it!

Hi! I love my Neatfi light! My husband had to rig my bench so I could clamp it. They sell one with a base as well but the surface of my bench is prime real estate and I didn’t want to give up space for a base. This is where I got it off of amazon: amzn.to/4g8prti I am thinking of doing a review of the light, it has been a game changer and really great for filming, it doesn’t strobe on the camera. A little pricey but really saves my eyes and lights up my workspace!

@ 👍❤️

I just put it into my cart. Thank you ❤

Aw, thanks! I just love to do it and so glad that it has helped so many people! Thanks for watching!

Hi! The singer featherweight shop sells the carbon brushes for the 301. If you search “301 brushes” they will come up. I think when new they are around a half an inch or maybe a bit longer. If yours are 3/8” now I would probably replace them while you have the motor apart and then you won’t have to worry about them for a very long time! I hope that helps!

That’s great! Keep sewing!

You are very welcome! Glad you’ve found them helpful and yes, love the Zymol!

You are very welcome!

Hi! I have a 222, let me take a peek to be sure before I answer you. It shouldn’t but I want to be sure because the 222 is a lot different under the covers. Give me a day or two and I will edit this comment

Wow, thank you so much!

This featherweight has just been painted back to the original style. It was in sad shape. Not anymore!

Hm, not sure without seeing the machine. It is possible that it was heavily oiled before you got it. Just make sure you wipe up any extra and move forward. Oil should't be on the gears or in the motor. Otherwise, oil won't hurt your machine. Good luck with your new to you Featherweight!

@@SewingMachineRehabThank you

Never use alcohol on the paint surface .It will destroy the decals. Use machine oil on the surface.

@ good information. I've never had any decal damage, but I'll keep that in mind. If it's even possible, I wouldn't want to take the chance.

As long as you keep the alcohol off the clear coat. Even fast drying will hurt it if it sits there more than a second or two. But on all the stainless parts, for sure! Great cleaner.

Exactly. Oil or kerosene will be a safe option for the painted surfaces. The cleaner wax I use is also safe. I hope I was clear in the video, I do not recommend putting alcohol on the painted surfaces.

Thank you!

You’re welcome! So glad you found the series helpful! So happy for you, great job!

You are welcome Bob T!

I will look into it. I already sent the machine back to the customer, so I don't have it anymore to check. I'll let you know if I find it!

I found the answer in another viewer's comments! Thank you for this wonderful series of videos. On to the 301 next!

The video is up! ua-cam.com/video/IjA4RdmJyDc/v-deo.html Hope it helps!

Hi! It may be that at some point the two halves of the end of the stud got slightly spread apart. You can try gently pinching them back together slightly and your thumb screw should go back on just fine. Let me know if it doesn’t!