Відео

@@StanKing-k6c no idea, it might be state by state. There wasn't emissions requirements in my state.

@hacktical521 gotcha. Yea I lived in Cali and I remember there were no emissions testing for bikes there; and that state was atrocious for emissions standards 😬.

@@steppydaddy972 thanks!

@@gerber8915 with just the information provided, it does sound like it's an assembly issue that is putting it into a bind. The way that I got most of my printers out of a bind situation is by loosening most of the rail or rod screws by a half turn or full turn. Not very much, just enough to give it some room. Then run the bed up and down and move the head around. If everything feels smooth, then you had a bind problem and you need to snug up the screws as you move the head or move the bed and figure out which area was causing the bind so that you can figure out the root cause the problem. I know that's generic, but it actually works on all of my printers and has been one of the single biggest things to help with sticking rails or bed. If you're sure that everything's smooth and it's still not doing what you want, then it might be a motor power issue but that requires getting a bit deeper into the firmware

@@hacktical521 Alright, I'll give that a try after I get out of work tonight. Honestly wasn't expecting for you to reply, but I'm very thankful. I'll respond with an update and possibly more questions.... You rock!

@@starley1978 Thanks for the feedback. A lot of weight was added, and if I would have done it better or out of aluminum then it would have regained a lot of speed. It was a fun project though

@@hacktical521 рецепт давно известен: алюминий, 1 место, минимальная масса, спереди узкие мотоциклетные колёса, сзади максимально широкое колесо. Либо передний привод.

@@starley1978 If I had a time machine...

@@hacktical521 тысяча извинений :) Не заметил срок видео

@@funkdizzle3000 I went with LDOs that matched the size of the original. I don't remember the exact model, but I had to slow it down to 250mms 5k accel because of vibration on the Y axis as well. I tried greasing and lots of stuff but couldn't get away from it so it might have been a bent rod or something. I ran it at that speed for a long time then sold it. That sounds like a heck of a machine you got there!

@@hacktical521 Ah, I see. Last question: you did input shaping? I did with the BTT s2dw and wow, night and day. That's the only way I could speed it up. I saw failfast here on yt and saw their mk3s with klipper, and it motivated me to dust off mine. I'm curious what printer is your favorite now? No doubt a corexy?

@@funkdizzle3000 yes I did the input shaper calibration, and did both manual as well as with an accelerometer, which gave similar results. Cleaned up the rippling but didn't allow for more speed since I think I had a hardware issue. And my favorite printer currently is one that I built. Core XY, 400x400x400, AC bed, 3 Z motors for a dancing bed, orbiter with a Revo hot end. I can't go past 400mms with reg PLA even at 220C because the filament doesn't melt fast enough, but the printer itself can go faster with ABS or HS PLA. I found buttery smooth prints at lower outer wall speeds, so it's always a toss up between speed and quality, and I lean toward quality

@@hacktical521 Wow, huge! And now I have to see a dancing bed. Thank you for all the info! Going to look into those motors.

@@SlangNasty Yes, you can do that. However, that really only works if the entire battery pack is low. If only 1 or 2 cells are low voltage, then jumping it to get the overall voltage registering on the charger may only bring it back to half bars, but better than totally unusable

Strange. You could take it apart and see if it has dead cells

If you are talking about the stock firmware, I have no idea. I'm sure there are other videos on the base printer, but most modern boards have a slot for accessory, power, and two signals which is all a BL touch needs.

@@hacktical521 sweet im new to 3d printing still so this is a big help thanks for the fast reply

@@ExtraWoven Good luck! It's a great hobby that opens up a whole new world when you can make anything you can dream. But you gotta ask yourself, do I want to just print parts, or do I want to dive into the hobby and mechanics? If you just want to print, then get a Bambu, K1, or other modern printer that does the work for you. If you like to tinker, then get yourself some BTT boards, Klipper, and buckle up!

I had to make my own because none of the ones that I found met my whole pattern for mounting or was as slim as I was wanting. But I used the one from thingiverse called "Strong BIQU H2 Ender 3 Mount" to get the mounting holes and then used fusion 360 to modify the rest. For the fan, I started out with the common one that is more flat than aerodynamic and upgraded that later on to the "Biqu H2 Single fanduct v1.1". Still could use more cooling but I believe my limiting factor is the material now since regular pla seems to max out for my extruder at 350 MMS. Once I burn through all of my regular pla, then I'll start buying the high-speed one

Can you explain what your problem is in more detail?

​@@hacktical521 I have refurbished the battery 🔋

@@WilliamCintron44 I actually just fixed a battery tonight that had that same problem. You can follow the video, take the battery apart, and check each cell with a multimeter to see which cell is low voltage. Then you just replace that cell and it will be good as new!

@@hacktical521 ty

@@hacktical521 it's the process easy to change

I believe the extra lead is for giving data about the battery, like temperature

Interesting. Thanks for the info

Good point. Thanks for the advice!

Agreed haha!

You bet! If you know any other knives that need an upgrade, hit me up

Stock QIDI X-MAX3 is more expensive than FBR2 + upgrades :)

@@sergeiepatov7683 Indeed it is. But neither of our printers are going to set any speed records anytime soon. But one of us has made his peace with this while the other one hasn't. :) As it turned out, I bought both the QIDI and the FBR2 at the same time. I ended up giving the FBR2 + everything (?) necessary to upgrade the printer to Klipper/Fluiid/whatever to my son. Upgrades included: Octopus MAX EZ V1.0+Mini12864 V2.0+8 PCS EZ2209 BIGTREETECH PI4B Adapter V1.0 for CM4 or CB1 CB1+PI4B BIGTREETECH EBB SB2209/SB2240 CAN V1.0 for Voron StealthBurner BTT SFS V1.0 Smart Filament Sensor Detection Stuck Blocking Filament Module The upgrades that I purchased from BTT came to $225.91. Still cheaper than my QIDI, but getting closer. And I recently was reading that the FBR2 "All metal" hotend of the FBR2 isn't actually "All metal". But a hotend upgrade was going to end up having to happen once the thing gets a bit more lively anyway. He hasn't upgraded his FBR2 as of yet, so he is still driving in the slow lane, but he does like his printer. And I would be lying if I told you that it's been all wine and roses with the QIDI. It's had numerous problems. But QIDI has supported me through thick and thin. Not just their help line, but several hundred dollars worth of upgrades for free. I think that I made the right choice. :) If I had the room though I would have a FBR2 just for doing cool upgrades to. But I don't have the room, and that's what my HevORT is for anyway. Keep tinkering, the FBR2 is a worthy testbed. Just be prepared to explain what "Ultimate speed 3D" means in this context. :)

You can find them online at lots of retailers. Just make sure you were getting the right kind, like the 18650s or 21700s

Thanks for getting back to me your video was very helpful, as I took one apart today and 4 of the 6 are bad after charging overtime. I found them pretty cheap,under 5 bucs each so it's worth replacing, ty

No it does not. But it does have neutral and I can push it pretty easy.

Sure, I can share. Reach out to me at kevin@hacktical.shop

There's lots of good options. I like LDOs and Moons. For slow bed slingers, I use Amazon cheapys and had no problems

Since it's a GSXR gauge with a different sensor, the RPMs are just reference. 🤣

I didn't adjust it, I found that after use it for a bit looser. I just accepted that if it was going to be solid (no drift at all) then it was gonna be a workout to switch sides. Good luck!

@hacktical521 I see. ya i think im gonna make it solid this time. thx !

It should be in the video, but I just used rods with threaded connectors on the end to tighten and remove lash. I believe it was about four or five feet of just linkage with a fulcrum in the middle to change the direction. So it's nothing too fancy, just using a hand lever to operate the original shift lever on the bike transmission

That's what I'm working up too, just gonna keep pushing what I got. But more Z steppers allows for more speed?

not the z. X and Y @@hacktical521

Agreed. This was a build for a buddy and I was just trying to see what I could get out of 24V and TMC 2209 drivers. then I was just redoing all of my calibration at 300, but now my problem is cooling and\or bed adhesion

It's YUGE!

Unless you already have most needed

@@gamingunlimited5804 If you have the stuff good. But if you have to buy the stuff just get a new battery and walk away.

I sold it a while ago. Not sure what the new owner wants from it

I can't anymore because I don't have the shop or space. And I can't sell blueprints. But if I could do it again, I would do it differently. There's plans out there for good starting points, but when we built this, it was of the first of it's kind to be on the road. Now there's a Slingshot as often as a Corvette where I live.

Just to stop possible electrical contact with outside sources. I just use electrical tape to replace them if the originals are too deformed

Just take it apart like the video shows and check each cell. Some of them will likely be close to zero so you will have to change a couple to get the battery back to good

@@hacktical521 thanks

Does it share a blade with any of the models in the video? If so, one of them might fit.

I just had someone check, and the P4 does fit the P2 as well!

Yeah, that probably means that one or two of the cells are bad but the other ones are fully charged (or at least in the right voltage range to not need charging). I'd recommend following the video and taking the case off and checking the cells individually

Good thought. When I designed it, if you lay a flat bar from the top of the roll bar to the supporting frame of the front suspension, it was still about 3 to 4 in higher than the top of my helmet. Now if it were truly upside down, I'm sure there would be that much sag in the shoulder area so still a concern for a helmet to hit the pavement. My justification was based on the fact that it is safer than a motorcycle, haha 😂

@hacktical oh it's definitely a cool design. As you said it is safe lol

My buddy has it now

@@cjskylair Glad to hear it's still out in the wild! Got pics of what it looks like now?

​@@hacktical521I was also wondering how well this trike was holding up. I'm starting my own project like this using Volvo s70 front parts on a ST1100

@@patrickchisholm8446 it is still alive and kicking. Sold it a while ago and the new guy still had it running last time I checked. Sometimes I miss it

I don't follow. Reverting back to car controls? I just went with what was most efficient to do the job

@@hacktical521 I wasn't criticising, I love your work, but I think you're missing a trick, as are other builders. What I meant was, if I was building one, I'd keep the Bike Controls. Throttle on the Steering (I'd have a Yoke, or Bars, full-lock to full-lock in approx 240°), probably a Thumb Throttle. Left Foot Gearchange. Right Foot Brake (to all three Discs). Left Hand Clutch, with Quickshifter. Clutchless Down-Changes are easy and smooth with a Bike Gearbox, so there'd be no need to touch the clutch once you'd pulled away from a stop. Voila! Perfect control at all times without having to move you Feet or Hands, and you can cover the Brakes at all times, no matter what, so much safer, just like on a Bike.

@@Docv400 okay, I understand now. I really did not follow before. That's an interesting idea, but I feel like you would need some considerable steering assist to stop a potential "tank slapping" since you would have a lot more weight you are pushing against with the same arms that are controlling throttle. I'm sure somebody has done it outside of a leaning trike. I built this one at a shop where I had ample spare parts from cars so that's what I used to keep costs down. If you end up building one the way you described, let me know how it goes!

@@hacktical521 'Direct' Steering can work on a Reverse Trike (it's obviously normal on a 'conventional' Trike, as are Bike Control layouts), but I guess Bike Controls wouldn't be compatible with many Drivers, particularly if they've never ridden a Bike. I've got a few builds in my Head, been planning for years, and now I'm retired, I should hopefully be able to get started on something!