Відео

Your power wire for the light strips will just need to be connected to one of the wires from the upfitter switches. You can either connect it in the engine bay, and then splice the pass through wire to the switch, or run it into the cab and go directly to the wire from the switch. You do not need whatever fuse your light kit came with, as the upfitter switches are already a fused power source. If you watch my video on installing the light bar on my truck, it explains this in more detail. How To Easily Wire A Lightbar Or Other Accessories To Your Super Duty Upfitter Switches! ua-cam.com/video/ZlTi7QzsfLE/v-deo.html

Yes, so long as it’s a good clean surface that you’re grounding to. Thanks for watching!

@@nombr awesome! Thanks for watching man!

I wouldn’t worry about doing it on a GT350 unless you were absolutely bored. You have a totally different transmission and shifter mounting in that, than you do in a GT.

It started and ran in the water

Thanks! I actually built these and have had them on the truck for about a year now. Still working great, and so much better light output than stock. It just took me a while to put the video clips together 😂

Did you hook up the little black box thing? So long as it is hooked up, and everything is plugged in, I don’t see why it wouldn’t be working unless the unit is faulty. Are both signals not functioning, or just on one unit?

@@lumpyzx2645 I have a video of the entire install. I ran 4 light force lights on a previous truck for years before light bars took off, and there’s zero chance I would ever go back. The light output of halogens is horrible, and the amperage draw is as well. I’ve lived in Alaska for nearly 30 years, so I have a good grasp on what works in various inclement weather

That makes a lot of sense. I swear that was the only option they had when I ordered, but I’m sure I missed it 🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks! Hopefully you have good luck with yours! I’ll have some more videos on this thing probably next spring. I ended up having a couple small issues with it, and then got sidetracked on my new SeaDoo Speedster project.

For the seat cover, just make sure to keep everything pulled tight and really work all the wrinkles out toward the edges and then staple it tight. You could also use a heat gun to make it easier to form and work with. I did not use a heat gun when I did mine though, so I don’t think it’s 100% necessary. For the plastic hatch cover, I just took a cutting compound, buffed it with that, then polished it, and finally waxed it. It looks better on the video than it does in person I will say that 😂

No. You definitely could, and it would probably make things easier. I personally try to avoid it so that in the event it gets changed again, it doesn’t rip chunks out of the foam

😂

No kidding 🤦🏻‍♂️

Is yours a 95 as well? From what I understand, it’s the only year where they had one inlet to feed both pumps. Currently that’s my biggest issue is trying to figure out the cavitation problems it’s having. Well that, and some questionable wiring 🤦🏻‍♂️

Absolutely! Glad it helped!

$2200. Depending where you’re at it may be a good deal or not. In Alaska, it’s definitely a good deal as boats like this are not as common, thus fewer are for sale.

You can for sure! It’s really not too terrible. Just take your time

No problem! That’s great to hear!

No shims on these ones. The large washer just sandwiches that destroyed pancake bearing against the pump housing. Probably a little different setup than an outboard jet. Can’t say I’ve ever worked on one of those.

@akgearhead makes sense. Hopefully you get parts in record time!

Me too! Absolutely stoked it wasn’t something worse 🤘🏼

Toasted

Should be around 55-60 mph

It absolutely is, and I think it gets a bad rap just from people that don’t know how to properly shift. Only time I had issues was during high RPM drag racing. I would get terrible lockout usually going into third, and the MGW has completely gotten rid of that issue.

Thanks!

Haven’t dug into it extensively yet. That’s the plan for today. I’ll probably swap the starter over from the known good motor. The shafts both have a ton of grass and debris wrapped up in them, so hopefully it’s just jammed up. I had that happen on my Polaris Jetski. Hoping it’s a simple fix and not internal engine failure, but it is what it is.

That is most likely going to end up being the case. Not too terribly worried about it though. I did buy it with the realization that the one engine would probably need rebuilt

Heck yeah! 🤘🏼

I can assure you the mounts weren’t forgotten. We hung it off the back, and said awww yeah she weighs enough it ain’t going nowhere

We had too many outboards. Needed to get rid of one

​@@akgearhead that's gotta be good for the environment

​@akgearhead one fun way to do it!

@@andrewcaddick3386you should’ve seen the detached fuel line dumping after it sank

We will rebuild ✊🏼

eBay

Yes. There’s zero wiring attached to the reverse lockout

Yup, I am 99% sure that they did. Either that or I got some outdated model. Either way, it was not an ideal way to install it.

@@akgearhead yeah, my mustang didn’t come with the factory spoiler, so I had to drill into my trunk, I could only install the outside 2 screws, the 2 inside screws were nearly impossible to fit

360 camera

You’ve had some issues I’m guessing? 😂

I don’t see why you couldn’t honestly.

@@akgearhead I’ll let you know how it goes! Appreciate the solid video sir

In the factory form, it just runs in line from your fuel filter to your fuel pump, and then has a pulse line that goes to the crankcase. You just cap that opening on the crank case, remove the auto cock, and run a new long piece of fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel pump, replacing the short piece that was originally on either side of the auto cock.

No problem! Finding the plug is the hard part. After that it’s relatively easy for sure.

Heck yeah!