Відео

@aileenkrauchi6553 hey Aileen... thank you for watching our TRQ video. Our biggest egg was 28g, a double yolk. We raise Jumbo Quail and we breed for size & egg quality. Ironically, I have a double yolk 21g egg in the incubator. Our first that has ever candled. I'm interested to see if twins emerge on Tues/Weds. We use a inter-incubator Hatch camera app (using an old cell phone) that sends us a notification "You've Got Quail" upon motion detection. It's a cool "tip" we offer to members of the USQuail Cooperative, a national Quail growers directory and marketing co-op to help match vetted Quail businesses with vetted buyers. Have a look at USQuail.com or join your State Quail Cooperative (all spelled out) on FB (administrated by USQuail Cooperative FB account) to get notified of when we launch the member-owned USQuailCoop.com directory platform (you can pre-register now for discounted dues). We are trying to create a homestead based parallel poultry resource for when SHTF. Perhaps you will join us? Doc White Tully River Quail Co Member USQC/PAQC USQuail Cooperative Founding Member.

@EilidhIljin she's healed, but I have to re treat her every 4 months. Bumblefoot is a virus, so an antiviral is the only way to really cure this once it's into the tissues. My treatment is more for the symptoms (comfort) than a cure. As a founding member of the USQuail Cooperative (a national, state based member owned co-op of homestead Quail growers and businesses) I hope to fund research into Quail specific Rx meds that will be available from the USQuail Store. A bumblefoot antiviral and more professionally made video similar to this will help. It's very difficult to treat as the cage has to be sterilized or the Quail needs to move into a full quarantine situation, preferribly in a free range, natural floor area vs a cage floor. If we learned anything from native Americans, dirt has healing properties (they used to pack cuts with mud!). Follow USQuail Cooperative on FB or pre-register for discounted dues. Stay Free!

@@tullyriverquail thanks so much for the reply , Ive not quarantined her but I have been bathing her every night and putting on antibacterial. I adopted her and my other quails , from someone keeping them in really dirty cramped conditions and on a wire ....they have a large outdoor run now , on dirt!.... Is there any anti viral available just now at all that could work?

@BradleyPace-l9g hi B.P. there is an awesome metal and industrial Salvage yard here in Reading PA called Moses P Glick's (they are online). This material is 3/8" thick aluminum with 3/8" holes and were large particle filter plates for inside industrial machinery. These fit into a pan at the bottom of an oil filled unit of some kind and served as a strainer. The plates were 18" x 21" if I recall, and I put a diamond blade on my portable table saw to cut to width to fit the trays. Each tray took 1 + a portion of a second one. Glicks had 20 4' tall pallets stacked with these! The cool thing about this material besides it not rusting is that it retains heat - great for countertop candling of 120 egg trays! Look online... they may still have some. If I run out there I will look and write you. Btw... we are launching the member-owned USQuail Cooperative directory and business resource platform within the next few weeks. We are trying to develop a parallel poultry network of Quail growers across America for when SHTF. You can pre-register at USQuailCoop.com or learn about the benefits at usquail.com. I hope you will join us!

@kadimullins7267 you can buy these brooder towers on the tractor supply websites, but note they have not addressed the brooder plate positioning. You will have to design your own way to raise and lower the brooder plates for smaller chick's like quail. Originally $1700 list, now ~$1300. Look at Strombergs poultry if interested in similar designs that may be better. You can find the tractor supply towers on Craig's list or FM market place. When TSC learned if the flawed design, they dumped their in store units for $200

@kimtran7153 "boys will be boys"... roosters will Crow. You can minimize this by keeping them in the same cage (so they aren't calling out to other birds nearby. They usually crow in the morning and at sundown like all birds. You could eliminate the roosters if not interested in selling fertile hatching eggs or incubating eggs to replace your covey every 2 years as their egg production falls off. You could keep the males in a more sound-proofed location (small shed) and introduce them back into the hen house when you want to fertilize eggs. Best I can do. As I said... boys will be boys. They are noisy. Consider joining USQuail Cooperative as a new "Starter". It's a member owned national Cooperative and directory of Quail breeders with educational component to help you start a small homestead business so your pets pay their rent. USQuail.com for more information. There's a limited time offer "founders" discount on dues for the first 10 members that join in each state. You will be able to soon find Mentor businesses to help you scale / grow your business or learn best practices. WE could use your help as we develop a decentralized "parallel poultry" network of Quail Growers

@@WeAreTneKingdom we are always hatching Quail and adding different bloodlines to maintain a healthy covey bred for size and temperment.

I harvest the wild greens for my quail but never considered wild strawberries, thanks for the suggestion.

@@user-gk2ut8mc5e anytime I see something they would like, it goes in my pocket or I return with a container or bag.

@@tullyriverquail I need to do the same!

Yes. We use our cage system for our coturnix breeders and hatching eggs. We have a hutch for coturnix hens we sale, and the TSC brooder tower for selling Coturnix chicks. The flight pen is for our Bobwhite as they may end up as gamebirds.

We use a pre-brooder box before moving them into the brooder. It's just a wooden box with a rubber drawer liner. We often hatch 100 babies at a time and after 3-4 days it gets a bit poopy. The brooder tower we mover them into has 3/8" spaced poly mesh,and the poop doesn't build up on the floor at all once in this holding tank. After 3-4 weeks, pending the # of unsold birds remaining if any, we check their feet again just to be sure. Once they are in our layer cages, they don't ever have issues as we have clip on cage front extentions with a removable sand box that we rotate through our chain of cages every week. It's just those short times when we have the birds without a drop though flooring, or when too many guys get too big too fast. We also have a hutch system with 1/2" hardware cloth (transitional cage) and we need to check the Jumbo bird when we move them from here. Often not a problem, but once the dried poop calcifies it can cut them and that's when the problem starts with the infection and it becomes a difficult battle to win... so we always check our birdy feets whenever handling them. Just good habit to practice. Those that don't get the dreaded curse of Bunblefoot. (We've only had 1 or two in 5 years, and have moved >1000 birds through our own covey. Stay Free! Look into USQuail.com. The USQuailCoop.com site should be opening soon and folks that pre-register get a founders badge and a free @QuailMail.US email alias

Corrid can be purchased at Tractor supply or online (Amproprilin sp?) You have to look in the "bovine" section (cows, pigs, sheep shelf, not poultry). Then you have to do the math to treat the weight of the infected bird (or average weight of the birds in your covey if prophylactically treating them all... adults 10-12oz, Jumbo 14-16oz, chicks... weigh them!) and make a gallon or half gallon of the specified concentration for treatment or preventative drench. Make a fresh batch daily and offer this as the primary water source for an infected bird for 5 days (with access to a 2ndary fresh water perhaps in a lid or cap or repurposed cat food plastic half-serving. For a drench which has a lower concentration, add the specified (calculated) amount based on your auto-water reservoir volume or add a 2nd drinker per cage. We treat our entire covey once a year this way, every year and also do an annual de-worming protocol 3 months later. We also use USQuail's nonGMO, nonmedicated 32% Coturnix1 Starter feed, and treat all chick's at 2 weeks old, after their inherited immunity from the egg drops and they begin to develop their own immunity. Medicated feed at 0-2 weeks actually weakens chick immunity by interfering with the natural inherited immunity process, but it's more affordable for commercial fed Co's to sell it as "medicated" although its not the proper way to medicate day-old to week old chick's. Do research on this and you'll see why after looking at graphs of the immunity vs age. Hope that helps. Search Corid and you may cheat using someone else's math.. or get the calculator out and read the label. (USQuail provides a premeasured 1 gallon vial with their starter feed for Ideal medicated system.) Join USQuail Cooperative and you can become a regional distributor for their Coturnix 123 Feed System... along with the many other benefits besides helping Make America Farmers Again

Funny... I caught that too and started doing that with a smaller "foot bath" primary tank. Thank you. You've got a keen eye!

We have GREAT Feed specially made for Coturnix Quail - A formula we got from a an elder Japanese Quail farmer. We label it under the USQuail Cooperative USQuail Brand and hope to soon develop micro-distributors through the Co-op membership as folks can buy as little as 5 bags and resell to other local Quail growers, or region iona or State Quail Cooperative members of US Quail can purchase more, split the inventory and cover larger territories. We sell locally but have folks drive in from MD, NY, NJ, Western PA and OH to pick up orders. We are just now launching the second of the USQuail Coturnix123 Feed System with the Coturnix1 Starter feed. It's 32% nonmedicated / nonGMO and comes with a 5 day corid anticoccidosis water treatment to be offered at 3 weeks, when the initial immunity from the egg dips. Medicated feed during the first 2 weeks is not beneficial because the chick's natural immunity is very high, transferred from mom (like the Colostrum in mother milk). It's "easier" for Feed factories to just put it in, but the best way is to give the medicated part at 3 weeks so you don't interfere with the natural immunity process. Anyway... if you are interested, we could talk about shipping to you freight and you could be a distributor for your area & in essence, Feed your birds for free. That's what we do at Tully River Quail. Text us or call and we can discuss getting you the best Coturnix Feed in America. I have posts on the Tully River Quail FB page about the two. We hope to eventually offer a Grower (Coturnix 2) and a Pre-Harvest blend to feed 1 month before dispatch - all 100% natural, including Hemp seed. Doc & Denise Tully River Quail & Cage Reading PA 484-325-6678

very helpful, what's a good time to call?@@tullyriverquail

@@inventanew give us a call either after 6 this eve or tomorrow before 10 484-325-6678 Dr Bob TullyRiverQuail

It turned out great as far as the build went except: these units have a mid level divider to have two temp zones. There is a fake back wall and the center control divider has two fans that bring in the air and circulates it through inner channels and pushes air into the back wall chamber where is is forced out through the exit holes at the desired level. I wanted to use these fans as designed, and I wanted to use an inexpensive control panel on the divider's faceplate to look as original as possible. But... I didn't want to count on this as the main controller because it was china-cheap, so I wired it to also use an external quality controller. I used toggle switches to re-route the power pending which controller I wanted to use (preventing back feeding source B when source A was used). Well the internal Chinese controller with sexy touchscreen failed out of the box. So all the extra smartness I built into the wiring was for naught. When the weather breaks (it's mid March, so soon I hope) I'm going to remove all the fancy switches, take out the inner controller, replace the faceplate with a blank and run it as I should have with the external controller that I'm wall mounting in the barn office. We are launching a Quail Business Directory and Ag/Marketing Cooperative called USQuail Cooperative (learn more at USQuail.com, USQuailCoop.com should go live within the next few weeks). We will offer discounted supplies, equipment, feed, and even podcast equipment in the USQuail Store. As our membership grows (10 listing in each state) we will begin to manufacture incubators similar to this 1 external controller/multiple box concept so users can buy the size "box" the need and not have to purchase new controllers. We will have desktop, cabinet and under the cabinette designs from 200-700 quail eggs, and they will be equipped with "hatching cam" video to let you know vis sms when "You've Got Quail". We are going to start doing live morning drive time podcasts in the a.m. on the @USQuail UA-cam channel that will be explaining the platform, answering Q's and commenting on "food news" as we try to do our part in saving the country... feeding America when she refuses to feed us. #ParallelPoultry. We could use a hand. Maybe you will join us? There's a great referral Affiliate program for members. USQuail.com - coming soon Member-owned USQuailCoop.com

Hi.. thank you for your nice comment. We took what some other commercial builders make them a little bigger, with better longer lasting auto feeders and a winter freeze resistant waterer that can be part of a winter waterer system. We would love to be able to ship these (custom boxing required due to 27" x 37") and we hope to soon be offering these nationally as members selling on the USQuail Cooperative directory through the supply & equipment store... launching soon. Visit USQuail.com to pre-register or USQuailCoop.com when the member owned, member grown Co-op goes live in the very near future. Tully River Quail & Cage Reading, PA 484-325-6678

Hi These are ceramic heat elements. You can find the short yellow ones in 100w, and normal bulb length sized ones in 100w, 150w on Amazon, or soon on the USQuail Cooperative member-owned store (learn more at USQuail.com a quail business member directory, marketplace, member created educational & business resource & discount supply store.)

I will look into the place you’re suggesting, thanks

You can email or text me and I'll provide the Amazon link. The USQuail Store isn't up yet. This week hopefully

484-325-6678 TullyRiverQuail@Gmail.com

You are so welcome!

Thank you. We have been working on a national quail business directory & marketing Cooperative called USQuail.com / USQuail Cooperative. USQuail is a collective of member-owned State Quail Cooperatives (see Texas Quail Cooperative FB page for the Texas members - follow the page to be notified when USQuail goes live in a couple weeks ). There are many benefits to being a member and we have a founders special for the first 3 members from each state to join as a business or use the tools on USQuail to start one. Have a look and join us! Help us develop a decentralized member owned/member controlled parallel poultry resource to help our communities prepare by growing their own protein, one neighbor at a time. Www.USQuail.com

We use fiberglass poles (think winter driveway markers) and ubolts on the corners posts to provide rights and maintain alignment. We also use a heavy 16 guage cage 1" x 2" galvanized welded wire for the cage stock. The weight of the cages are supported by the sidewalls and not the cage top, and the droppings tray rests on rails, a 2" inner bend of the bottom inner side wall so that the tray is not totally supported by the lower level cage roof. The removable inner divider of each dual cage also adds rigidity to the center of the cage, along with a heavy guage 1"x1" front post between the large doors ensures the egg roll out space remains true. If you get a chance... have a look at the USQuail Cooperative project we will soon be launching. USQuail is a member owned business league for homestead Quail growers in effort to standardize our decentralized "parallel poultry" initiative. Members receive a free profile brochure style webpage and we will be offering a discount supply store, a custom online DIY print and merchandise shop to support business owners, a lucrative affiliate partnership program complete with predesigned ads, education for new Quail enthusiasts as well as experienced growers, and eventually, live member driven QuailTV scheduled daily Q&A programming. Plus much more. USQuail.com is hoping to get 10 founding members in each state, and the cost of membership equals only the average sale price of one sale based on the level you join, Starter, Grower, or Breeder. Each state Cooperative will have a steering committee board that will work directly with the USQuail Board of Directors to help develop the site to best suit the needs of our members. Our mission is to help communities become self sufficient by growing their own protien, one neighbor at a time. Posting articles, photos and videos to the USQuail library will help with member owned websites SEO through back links, and if you don't have a website, you can pick one from one of 5 predesigned "Your Logo Here" site templates available or you can build your own through our discounted hosting and website builder links. Have a look... there's just too much goodness to address in a comment reply, but it's very exciting and we are just waiting for our 501(c)6 (nonprofit farm cooperative) paperwork before we open the doors, but you can preregister and take advantage of the founders discount and badging for the 1st 10 in your state. Through the affiliate program, you can earn enough to pay for your membership each month with just one referral, simply attach "Join USQuail Cooperative" at the bottom of all your posts and you custom link will track referrals for 90 days. It's a way for us all to win and take back control of our food supply, especially now when it appears the government is shutting it off. Doc TullyRiverQuail. Reading PA Founding member - USQuail.com

Amazon has many ptd heater options. Ptd allows for variable voltage input, so if you have a smart controller it will slowly ramp up the heater as needed as opposed to 100% on/off. You see less variation in temperature and the smart controller learns just how to feather the power, and after a few cycles will provide for a more even temperature graph instead of up and down spikes through the entire incubation.

I would suggest 1 or 2 100W solar panels, pending your direct sunlight availability, a quality charge controller, a 750w-1000w inverter and most importantly, a good battery bank (a single 100amp hr lithium has more capacity than 3-4 heavy deep cycle batteries. We use a 12v timer controller for lighting (right off the battery, or through the charge controller), and power the pump and heater off the inventor. The 250w heater has a built in 40° or below switch, but we need a plug widget for the pump to turn it on when it gets close to freezing. We could run it off the battery, but the 110v plug thermal switch allows the 12v pump's 12v-110v transformer to be controlled by temperature - the most affordable option. We always have a spare thermal switch as we have had one fail (they are only ip67 water resistant) and I have a 12v blue boat deck light wired to the 12v side of the pump, so when i can see when it's getting power from my house as our flight pen & recall hutch is in the woods on our property's edge. How that helps.

We have a battery bank inside a wooden wine crate with a 750w invertor, as well as a timer for accessory lighting should we wish to trigger winter laying. Pending your seasonal conditions, you can modify your battery bank to as many Amp hours as you need to maintain power for 3-4 sunless days. At that point you need to start looking at the math. Upstate NY may need more reserve juice for longer time than N.C. for example, so you'd consider # of/wattage of panels, single battery vs battery bank, Amp hours of a typical vs extreme service cycle, etc. I believe the hidden inverter answers your "where do you get the AC 250w"? Question. Thank you

We do not use that controller as we try to stick with the best controller we can incorporate into our builds. If you send a photo to TullyRiverQuail of the back of your unit, we would be happy to sketch out a basic wiring diagram. Reach out to Incubator Warehoise as I'm sure they will help. If you are in the US, consider joining USQuail Cooperative by following @USQuailCoop to get notified of the USQuail.com Free Quail Business Directory- member owned/member supported, America's First and only Quail breeder directory and Business Resource site... launching 1/1/24

Send me a photo of the front and back of your controller and I will see If I can reply with an easy to follow wiring diagram. TullyRiverQuail@Gmail.com

Thank you. It's nice because we have the option to let some out into the wild to recall, or out into the flight pen to get their wings ... and some D3 sunshine. We all need sunshine! If you are interested, we are launching the USQuail Cooperative membership platform - a member-owned, member content generated directory and quail business resource for Quail Growers. Most folk that have pre-registered are Coturnix homestead farmers looking to start an official business and take advantage of the coop's marketing, or established businesses that want to increase their SEO, build trust as a USQC member (the non-government version of NPIP), an add revenue streams via the Affiliate referral program, CRM funnel campaign tools, and the Christmas bonus off season "member dividend" - the more we grow/the more you earn. The Breeder level (about the cost of selling 10 chicks) allows you to "go live" on our QuailTV website based podcast portal. TheCoop.USQuail.com will be open shortly. You can learn more at USQuail.com. you could stand out in the Bobwhite category... even if you join just to get discounted supplies from the USQuail Store. Follow USQuail Cooperative on FB to know when we go live. Stay Free Dr Bob USQuail Cooperative

Building this led me to building one out of a wine cooler and now one from a small dorm fridge. I'm considering building a line of incubator cabinet sizes for USQuail Cooperative that run off of a single controller/hub. Desktop 100, countertop 200, wall mount 400, under counter 700 egg boxes so you could pick 1 or 2 pending the hatch size you're doing. USQuail.com launching soon

The 1" thick flexible PVC landscape tubing of the drinker bar body is Crack proof. The nipples and the o-ring mechanism is embedded within the central chamber of the tubing as opposed to being more exposed in the standard 3/8" x 1/2" x 1/2" PVC plastic Tee most use when constructing drinker bars from 1/2" pvc (plastic) pipe. When used in conjunction with our heated circulation system, the water never gets below 40°F. If the tubing run is properly insulated, and you use an insulated water reservoir like a repurposed cooler, you can almost say it's freeze proof. We sell the pump and bucket heater, along with the DIY fittings for systems similar to one's demonstrated on our channel. We actually have our Bobwhite hutch running off solar with the same system. When PVC freezes, it cracks, and it always fails when it's the most difficult time of the year to repair (cold-cold winter). The best time to plan and install your winter water system is in the summer, when it's warm. We design out winter kit so that the pump and heater are easily removed from the system and once again installed when you need it, unlike other fixed mounted system. This aides in the longevity of the equipment. 484-325-6678 if you have any further questions. ~Dr Bob, TRQ

Reading PA. We ship hatching eggs (Jumbo coturnix) nationwide

If your tubing or garden hose is exposed to the weather/water/rain, use the closed cell pipe insulation (neoprene like) and not the open cell "pool noodle' sponge type. These are sold in 6' lengths at any home improvement store and have a sticky edge protected by a film during fitment. Place it on the tubing and then peel the protective film from opposing edges (like a zipper) and hand squeeze it together as you go. Run a wrap or two of electrical tape at the ends, any bends and at intervals just to make sure and twist the seem to the bottom to make it less susceptible to collecting water should a seam open. Take your tubing to the hardware store. In our applications we find 1/2" copper pipe foam i.d. is too small for our hose, so we use 3/4" i.d. having the hose on hand at the store helps ensure proper size selection. Finally, to protect spigot or valves, cut two lengths of equal size sufficient to cover the valve. + 2-3" of overlap. Stick oneside of the two lengths together on essence doubling the inner dimension of the tube, place over the spigot or valve, then unzip/seal the other side. This allows you to slide it off to the hose side if needing to operate the valve, then back in place. The overlap of the valve cover over the tubing foam stops water collection, especially if the top side is 1" or so longer that the under side on the overlapping joint. On super duper cold days, blocking the wind on long exposed runs helps (wrap with a towel, etc). Also having a back up adjustable aquarium heater ($20) is also not a bad idea. These are constant temp set usually at 70°f -the lowest setting. You could run these on another wall wart widget (on/off at 40) or during the period of subzero cold, just let it run. Backup pump and heater is always great to have, because they never fail on sunny 60°F days... only when it's ubernasty. My $0.02 anyway. Thank you for your comment. Please consider joining the USQuail Cooperative fb group! Doc, Tully River Quail Co

I designed the incubator with 3/8" perforated aluminum tray floor which maintains heat along with a Plexiglas tray front that keeps the heat and humidity inside the chamber, even when the door is open. Think drawer level chamber door system inside the unit door. Humidity fluctuation is minimal, easily/quickly brought back up, and doesn't effect the egg airspace or shell water content as that requires 6-12 hours or more. We rotuniely get mid %80's hatch rate out of this DIY Dishwasher design. We try to minimize accessing the hatching tray but we have "saved" many more chick's than we have lost through monitoring the hatch. We are working with the USQuail Cooperative (USQuail.com) to develop a similar modular incubation & Hatching box modules controlled by one single controller (up to 4 modules), with wifi camera option for hatching trays that send video text notifications to your phone when movement occurs. For example "Tray 2: You've got Quail!". USQuail.com launches July 4, 23. The US Quail Cooperative... Cooperative learning Cooperative Growing Cooperative selling Cooperative buying Cooperative Living... USQuail (Coming soon)

@@tullyriverquail my goodness I've definitely found an expert! Just finished my first hatch last week. 36 eggs. 23 found to be "fertile" 13 hatched. But 4 died due to feet and leg issues think it was due to shrink wrapping when I would open to check on then. And 3 fully developed but failed to hatch 😢. Hope to have something like this one day 🔥

@WakandaDigitalGroup the quality of cheap incubators is well, cheap. The heating unit is usually an on/off controller with a fan to distribute the heat. If you look at a graph of most of the $150-$200 store incubator heat fluctuation, it would look like a zig zag... you have it set on 99.5 with a delay of 2° (usually) so the heater comes on when it gets below 97.5 and turns off at 99.5 (but the element continues to heat for a few seconds, raising the temp to 101°F before it cools back down enough to kick on the controller. Better "smart" controllers (and p.i.d. heat elements) quickly learn this fluctuation pattern and send partial power (the P in p.i.d.) before it gets low and feathers the power off as it approaches set temp. A graph of that starts out with an increasingly narrow temperature variance plotting... smart, huh!? Tractor supply incubators (farm innovators brand) considers a %50 hatch rate as acceptable. Not me. You will learn that temperature is the #1 cause of a poor hatch rate, with humidity a far second. The reason your birds weren't strong enough to live is due to the disruption in their ideal heat. They don't develop fully and therefore don't have the "juice" to pip in the natural alloted time they have to live inside the egg. As long as you don't have days of humidity below/above %50 rH, the hatch won't be impacted. (Too much water shrinks the airspace... no room to hatch, little shrinks the bird). 50% is natural... no water loss/gain. The lockdown rec %65 supposedly "softens the shell" and keeps the membrane supple during pipping, but if the bird isn't strong enough, he ain't making the full circle and they die in the shell after the first poke. We are launching USQuail Cooperative that will soon be offering wholesale pricing on larger equipment purchases and products such as supplies and even USQuail Coturnix Feed system. We will be fabricating a modular incubation system with a wifi controller that will run up to 4 modules, such a a desktop box, an under the counter or wall mount box or hatcher (with with nite vision motion cam and video text notification telling you "you got Quail" with a short 15 sec video text to your phone. You will be able to buy the controller and patch cables to use whichever module(s) you own and add more modules as you grow your business. USQuail Cooperative will have a free "starter" membership, providing access to the breeder directory and educational materials with some business start up tools. The Grower will be more focused on developing your brand and store, with the Breeder membership allowing you to add USQuail products to your ecommerce website and develop additional revenue streams besides selling eggs. We also have a KidzQuailz Jr affiliate program for homeschool homestead Quail business cooperatives. All cool and all launching soon. Many State Cooperative FB groups have already been developed on the east coast (Mn to FL, over to TN). If you live in one of those states, search for your state Quail Cooperative group to get notification as to when this goes live (July 4 target date, with a Sept membership drive). Growing Quail is valuable to yourself and your country. As we develop the #Quail Parallel poultry network, you may find that fertile eggs may even be a bartering tool should quailpoop hit the fan. Enjoy and congrats on the babies! Dr Bob Tully River Quail & Cage Co Member USQuail Cooperative, USQuailCoop@Gmail.com 484-325-6678

We are starting to build our Tully River Quail Cage systems with a translucent thick mil plastic sheet (coroplast can be used, especially in transport cages) suspended ceiling with zip ties 1" from the wire cage top. We wanted to create a better alternative to the metal roof material we use as weather protection. This "drop ceiling" has an inch of give while also providing for rain and wind protection. We call it our "pop top" design and use it in cage systems we move about and transport cages

I'm looking for where I can put a chair so I can hang with them. I'm wondering if they are going back into the respective hutches for the night. It's neat to see which make/females pairs are staying together. I just hatched 45 bobwhite babies today to go with a small hatch from last week. It will be interesting introducing them into the big pen next month.

@@tullyriverquail a good chair would be great for down there. What kind of bobs are these? Jumbo Wisconsin’s or Georgia giants?

@@zachmiller6431 standard Northern Bobwhite. Au naturalle

@@tullyriverquail that’s what we have as well! Would love to raise up some GGs this fall

We use two different types of edge protectors in our cage build: we line the door panel access of the cage front with a 1/4" silicone and we use a larger 3/8" plastic protector strip for egg tray bumper- both sourced from Amazon by searching edge trim or door guard. We hand file all the edges of our cage build... even trimming and filing the factory cut sides of the welded wire stock to make the cross members flush with the terminal ends. We remove any detectable burrs prior to cage assembly and then we line the cage door and egg tray with the silicone edge guard to prevent any snagging or sharps. The 1"x1" 10 guage vinyl coated doors are treated differently, where we use "liquid electrical tape" or "dip-it" self curing elastomer to coat the cut edges. The material costs for caging has almost doubled since the Plandemic and globalist attack on America. Although these cage systems appear easy enough to DIY, it is costly to include the "complete system" of feeder(s) and freeze resistant drinker tubes, the galvanized roofing and XL scat tray. It takes us 2 hours to cut, bend & assemble the components and 8 hours to deburr, file and polish the welded wire. Many balk at our $225-$250 (dual feeder, divided breeder cage). Those that do not 1) tried to build their own and found it more valuable to have it professionally manufactured 2) recognize the quality of craftsmanship we offer by having the correct tools and skills. We make every cage as if it will be used by Tully River Quail Co in our business. As a retired DDS... I understand that you can't cheat on quality unless you enjoy failure. Tully River Jumbo Quail & Cage Co - Reading PA 484-325-6678

@@tullyriverquail I’m with you, its hard to Phathom how fast things changed for the worst, praying for eyes to open and seek the Lord while there is still time. Your right about the work and craftsmanship it takes it’s no joke, so many components the price is very generous. Much appreciated for sharing the wealth of knowledge, very valuable to help people prepare for what’s coming quail is going to be indispensable in the coming days

1.25" is ample space for egg roll-out for Jumbo Quail eggs.

@@tullyriverquail I’m making the same cages now thanks for everything it saves so much trial and error

Hi John, It's Lion Country. My only thought about our cages would be to decrease the depth to 24" overall to allow for easier shipping options.

@@tullyriverquail thanks! I'll try that

Lion country supply is the full name

The coccida organism is like an intestinal amoeba that can be found in dirt... even organic bedding. Most birds may get a touch of infestation but can handle the response via natural immunity. It's just when they get a big dose or are in a weakened state that the micro-organism proliferates. You can probably find coccidia in most of your birds, but not enough to get them sick enough that you know. Isolate her, treat her, clean the cage with soap and hot water, then spray with 50/50 listerene water, let dry. Then mist rinse with 50/50 white vinegar water. Keep her warm and quiet... let her heal, but you will need to treat the entire covey. Give her a Medicated drinker but treat your other drinkers at the same time. (You can offer untreated water as well for the other birds, but wait a day using just the Corid mix for at least day 1) Thank you... sorry I'm just getting your Q.