Відео

Appreciate the comment. Hope it helps some folks.

Good tip, thank you

@@wellingtonviking Thank you! I've been enjoying having the rear wiper working thanks to your video. I've had my MK4 golf for about two years now and it has not worked the whole time I had it!

I haven't had a reason to check as yet. Next time I change the oil in March I'll give it a knock with my knuckle and try and stick a magnet on it. Have you reached out to the dealer to see what they say it is?

@@wellingtonviking It's made of steel

Thank you for following up with that info.

Learning experience for all.

It just came with everything that shows in the video. Sorry, it's been a couple of years so I can't remember the specific washer that was included.

Hey there, yes, as I mentioned in the video, I have a dicky drain plug, and didn't want to take it out, which is why I opted for the top end drain option.

@@wellingtonviking I appreciate your video. Just did this with my 1994 LS 400. Cheers!

​@@andrearatkovic4048 nicely done. Great job keeping the LS 400 going. Well-built vehicles.

Just have a look at it, and when it's dirty, change it. The time factor is really just in conjunction with the mileage, and how dirty the air has been around you while driving. If you don't drive much, and you're in a clean air area, it'll last longer than if you live on a dirt road or there have been wild fires around you, etc. Thanks for the comment.

The housing wasn't completely destroyed on mine. The metal female fuse holder that holds the male fuse legs was intact and in good condition. It looked worse than it was due to the fried plastic. If the metal is completely melted on yours, the light tester wouldn't work. If the metal pieces are damaged, it would be worth replacing.

@@wellingtonviking I think the metal female pieces are a bit skewed but a test light works on them.

@@vampir335 I'd look at it this way: if they are weakened and brittle, the whole part should be changed. If they still are strong, and just have some sort of superficial discoloration, I'd try a new fuse.

You have some wrong information there boss, at least in the United States. You can use a quality oil filter, even if not Honda branded, due to the Magnuson-Moss Act, from my understanding.

The crush washer being slightly larger than the head of the bolt is ok. If it's the wrong size (too large) washer, it might not sit flat if it hits the part of the oil pan where it curves up, which would be bad.

Yes, the Redline MT-90 is GL4 75W90

Appreciate the comment. The messiest part is when you wrap the oil filter in the plastic bag, and, of course, if you don't have a no spatter pad for your oil drip pan. Outside of the mess, which, when you've learned from your mistakes, is less the next oil change, it's an easy oil change. Sticking your head under the hood a minimum of once or twice a year is never a bad thing, even on a newer vehicle. Changing your oil gives you a good reason to give your truck a closer look.

Appreciate the feedback. Hope you're out road testing now.

Let us know when you're tracked down the issue. Best of luck.

Sounds like you're thinking Celsius and I was talking about Fahrenheit.

Good tip. A Harbor Freight special could just do the trick.

Great outcome.

I have a separate video for that: ua-cam.com/video/s0-Fut0PB18/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared

I hope the recommendations of others keep coming without sponsorship: maybe that means the product will work. As I just used the product, I’ll check in in 6 months to a year from now to see if there is any noticeable difference. Initial indications are that the engine is purring along, and though subjective, feels like she’s a bit happier after using The 505 CRO.

Would have been nice for the designers to think of the workers aye?

I haven't tackled that job as yet. Did you end up finding what you were looking for, and can you share?

I'm going to get a splatter pad for the next time to avoid the mess, and the physiological distress! Thanks for watching.

Best of luck. It's a tight space. When the hatch closes the bare wires are likely shorting out against either other wires, or the metal of the hatch. Good bonding experience with the Golf! Let us know how it goes.

So frustrating I know.

glad it worked for you

yes - thanks for posting! @@wellingtonviking

I know some folks like to reuse the washers. If it works for you, great. The way I look at it is for a few pennies, not having to deal with a potential future drip is worth it for me every 12 months.

thanks for the tip

Glad it helped.

Clean California unsalted roads and a skid plate keep things pretty tidy in this area. Spoiled I know.

Excellent outcome. Appreciate the comment, and glad it helped.

Same here. I replaced my whole fuse box to be on the safe side. Mine was very melted

You definitely have to get under there a bit. I'm using the Daytona DJ3000. Here's the link to the Harbor Freight site with specifications: www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-yellow-63183.html

I have the same 3-ton Daytona low profile jack you have and I had to sell it on FB because it was not long enough to jack from the jacking points. I tried to jack it from the pinch welds, but there are plastic trim pieces covering up the length of the pinch weld that wouldn’t allow me to have the jack in place and place a jack stand on the pinch weld. Gonna go buy the long reach 3-ton low profile jack tomorrow.

@@FamousSASkater how did the long reach work for you? The full barnwood 2x4 (actual 2x4, rough cut, not nominal) got the car up enough for me (stock suspension) to slide the jack under, though it was still tight under there and the first pumps of the jack were small ones.

KYB SB125 - Strut Boot amzn.to/3qgVdNl

Glad it helped!

If manual then yes it's an O2J 5 speed

Sometimes you use the tools provided. I just did the oil change this year and didn't have one drop spilled. I left this version of the video up so people could learn what not to. I did use a larger oil pan this last time as well. Hope you found a better video that suited your needs.

There are different rules for different cars, and different crush washers for different cars. Some people will reuse the old crush washer, but it's worth a few pennies to me to make sure it's done correctly and it won't leak: no one likes to go back under the car only to find a drip that could have been prevented by a little crush washer.

@wellingtonviking ok I was wondering if I need a crush washer. Thanks

@@andrewaguirre7872 yes, it's needed

@@wellingtonviking ok thanks

Sounds like it's been overfilled. make sure you actually drained the engine oil and not the transmission fluid by accident (I've seen this done before at a commercial lube shop)

@wellingtonviking o ok thats what I was thinking

@@andrewaguirre7872 did you find out if the transmission fluid was accidentally drained or how the oil was so full?

@@wellingtonviking I don't think so

@@andrewaguirre7872 hopefully you find the root cause and can update it here in case someone else has a similar experience.

Glad you're having fun while working on your car

Nicely done and great call on the o ring: worth a few bucks for piece of mind. Enjoy the next 20 years on your Toyota!

Agree to disagree and to each their own. A little spilled oil and the knowledge that you changed the oil correctly far outweighs the 0 care factor you get at most dealerships and oil lube places for me. I know I care infinitely more than someone who is paid to get you in and out as quickly as possible.

$129 oil change honda dealership recently.

@@buffalogtr that sounds more realistic

Don't believe they did a 30 point safety check. You can do it just like the so-called Pros. They just eyeball for leaks. That's it! Please pay the cashier 109 dollars 😂

thanks for the tip

Any luck finding this? I haven't had the issue.

Merci d'avoir regardé

Glad it worked for you. Cheap and relatively easy fix.

Nice of you to say, but I know I'm function over form.