Відео

Keep rubber side down, and the shiny side up!

Aw damn dude... is the "reeee" sound the sound of the starter spinning while not meshing to the engine gears? If so, you might just need to look at the mechanism that engages those gears (it's easier to get into that than to take the whole thing apart again). I'm talking about the bit at ~4:40 in this video.

@@zeroreality under the spring that hooks on the starter the round part that needs the star key ..the custom washer that it screws into is missing... Can I start the bike without that? Any Jimmy rig ideas?? I cant find it for the life of me!!

I was so ready to go on a joy ride to when it started.. I've taken that thing off and put it on & off like 3 or 4 times... I think everything is good inside there where the stator is I really don't want to go back in there again!!! I got to get this thing started so I can drive it up the U-Haul ramp next week moving to Florida I wanted to cruise the Florida Bay without my battery going out every day... I may have to go to the junkyard .. if I really need that washer that the Starkey piece screws into.. Let me know what you think.

@@jpstevens7430 Wait... check this diagram here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1995/virago-1100-xv1100g/starter-clutch Do you mean you are missing #10?

@@zeroreality After it had started and I had all the parts on and then Reeeee.... and so when I opened it up where the diagramed parts are nothing fell out and#11 was half out of #10.. Could the bike have started without #9?? That's what I am racking my brain with now.... Tks. For replying so fast... Let me know what you think whenever you get the chance... Maybe my starter went out?? But it cranked so nicely and sounded so good .. Then I shut it off put clutch cover on and Reeeeee.... What a tease!! I'm not drinkin until I get this resolved 😆

I was getting the FRAM CH6004 replacement filter, and it came with all new o-rings in the box, so I would replace them each time. However, at some point FRAM changed the large o-ring size in their box (it was about 1cm too large), so I ended up having to re-use the big one the last two oil changes on this bike. I misspoke this video where I said there was a another "filter" at 3:44, what I meant to say was "o-ring". UA-cam used to have this feature for on-screen messages that I had set up to visually show what I meant, but they seem to be gone now. The air box "breaths" through a couple of tubes behind the box. Not a lot of air needed I guess. You'd never see them doing the air filter replacement. I only saw them when I took the carbs out to clean them and re-sync them. Never made a video for that though.

eBay. I got lucky that a set came up for sale right as I received these bags and found the mounting hardware provided with these bags was flimsy and ugly. They come up from time to time used, or as new-old-stock (NOS) meaning brand new in box but ten years old. The part number is STR-3D873-40-00 for the mounts. You may need to buy them separately. Also be careful about the 950's saddlebag mounts; they are the same shape, but smaller and will NOT fit. Like this one: www.ebay.ca/itm/314690692882

It should. The '97 and '95 virago only differed in colours from the factory.

I never did this on my 750, but I imagine it's almost entirely the same. Everything was in the same place on those bikes. The only difference aside from the motor was the 1100 had a separate reserve tank and a fuel pump.

Don't be so sure. The stator and rectifier work as a pair, so a lot of the time they die together. You may have had to do this job either way! (This is what I told me neighbour after he paid to have his RSTD stator done, got the bike back and found out the rectifier was he problem all along.)

@@zeroreality yeah hopefully I won't have to replace the stator but I have it if I need to so far it seems the power is better and my light headlight is shining bright but I'll keep a close eye on it. My old rectifier looks like it exploded like a fire cracker ..that's how bad it was.lol I got someone who can take that bolt off for me if I need to get to the stator. But your video was the best one to show me how to get all that stuff off to get to it. Only have forty thousand miles on my bike someone told me to Staters should still be good we'll see... I will keep you & your people posted.

@@jpstevens7430 Cheers bud, and good luck. I got a little voltage gauge that just read off the battery, and installed it on my bars. It let me read the voltage in real-time and helped me get over being gun-shy on the bike.

Anyone that watched videos make sure you have the right tools ...you're going to need a Star key & a long Phillips to take off the starter or use what he used to do it with. I had to run to the auto store twice for those two things.. and make sure you have everything ordered.. the stator the rectifier & the giant washer thingy that goes around the whole thing.. I'm spacing the name of it but his fell apart so he had to order one.. and when I saw that I ordered one as well.. I'm only on the first day and I hope I get done in 2 & not 6 by watching the videos part 1 and 2 a couple times & learning from his mistakes... unless it's the rectifier then I'll have to order one for twenty bucks or whatever but that's only a five-minute fix or less ... good luck to all who attempt this if you like to tinker it's kind of fun.. but just be patient. ✌

Good luck man, I hope it works out easy for you.

@@zeroreality Tks! I appreciate it. Would rather try myself than someone try to steal my bike or overcharge me.. Which has happened. 😁👍

@@jpstevens7430 Japanese bikes use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, not Phillips. They are similar to Phillips, but not as deep. This can cause you to strip some screws. Check this link: www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anything/difference-between-japanese-jis-phillips.html

@@zeroreality thanks for the tip... the Allen on the bottom near the starter the tricky hard-to-find one is nearly impossible to get off and I may have stripped it already any suggestions besides hitting with a hammer?

That is the Yamaha rear fender billet rack, party number STR-3D851-40-00. I bought it used from a woman in Quebec because my local shops didn't have it in stock. It looks great, but it's not really useful as a rack, it's like a 1/2 inch taller than the fender and my tiny Bungie cords can get under it (only just) but can't get it because the metal is wider than 1/2 inch. For me that doesn't matter, I'm using it to "delete" the rear seat.

Post of the reason I make any video is to illustrate how easy it is to fix things yourself. Let me know how it goes, good luck!

They may have been over-tightened when it was last opened. The 84/85 Virago is slightly different, but the oil filter cap is very similar. Try using an Allen-bit in a socket wrench. If the extra torque from the longer handle doesn't work, give the handle a gentle whack with a hammer to "break" the lock. I have had to do this to other Allen-bolts on my bike and had to REALLY whack the thing so hard I thought it would break! Start soft though. Good luck!

Doesn't UA-cam auto-translate if you hit the CC button?

Part number for the bags?

Sorry, I was up early and awake late. The mounts I am using will likely not fit any bike but the VXS1300A or (VXS1300CT), and not the XV1700A. Just looking at pictures online I can tell the shape is different from the ones I bought. You may also have to find each side individually instead of getting a pair; I almost had to. I checked eBay and found a few in the US (I am Canadian) so they are available, just none listing the part number... Good luck!

No worries! If you get stuck, come back here and all questions and I'll see if I can help.

Damn dude, sounds like the same problem with mine; the stator went a second time about two years later. I didn't replace my rectifier though, so I always wondered it if was killing the stator somehow, or if the cheap replacement I got from eBay was the blame. But if you had yours replaced at a dealer, it's probably the same (or similar) root cause. The only other thing I can think of is that there was some other electrical component causing strain on the whole system. Maybe the ignition coils or... who knows. I loved that bike, but I am more in love with my new bike!

@@zeroreality I see, there might indeed be an eletrical component causing issue on mine too but it will be a pain trying to figure it out. Then again, mine will be 30 years next year... I saw that you have a 1300 Vstar, is it worth it? It's almost at the same price range as a Harley though

@@GamingWithHasty My first two bikes were both Viragos and I paid around $2k for each. I never made videos of all the maintenance and changes needed on those bike, but syncing carbs, and cleaning those carbs was also something I had to do. After I decided to sell my xv1100 I knew I wanted a more modern bike with fuel injection and other modern conveniences; also that parts (and accessories) would be easier to come by. I also wanted something reliable, so Harley was off the table first lol! I looked at metric cruisers and found this bike for sale from a guy who just never rode it anymore; less than 5k kms and around $7k. I paid cash and had to register the bike myself which added to the cost, so I did spend quite a bit more than any bike before (and more than I had originally planned), but this bike is fantastic! Lots of power (not too much noise), plenty of comfort, and (hopefully) lots of longevity. I haven't cut the video together yet, but the handlebars as hey come from the factory are a crime against riders!!! I needed to raise them about 4 inches, but that change alone made all the difference in the world. It went from feeling like a long wheelbase bike that was hard to turn back to feeling a lot like my Virago in terms of manoeuvrability and low speed turns.

@@zeroreality Damn you got really lucky, with 5k on it it's a brand new bike. I also had a look for someone selling a 1300 in my country but haven't found any yet. The thing I am most concerned about is the Injectors, if one goes bad how much would it cost to fi/replace

I'm not sure I understand. The pickup coil is the part of the stator that I replaced in this video (there's a part 1 in the description). The stator is made up of two primary parts; the pick coild and the rotor. There is only one grommet. Can you post a picture of what you're looking at somewhere?

@@zeroreality it must be the rotar?, it’s the part that is square black plastic with a little magnet on it. Sits above the coil.. I’ll see if I can send a pic. No idea of how to send a picture

The pick up pulser.. anyhow that’s the part I need but the gromet for the pulser is the same gromet for the coil, and I can’t but them together unless it’s cheap, so I’m not sure how to replace that one part.

@@vanessap8717 Ok, I found pictures of the pickup pulsar, but I can say with certainty that the 1100 did not have this part. Not when I removed my coils, nor did I replace it. I can sort of guess where it would go those based on the shape, and images on eBay suggest that they both need to come out that same grommet. Do you have the part already, or are you just making sure it will fit? I think maybe the grommet for the 750 will be different.

@@vanessap8717 AAAAH nevermind that last comment. It has been a while, but I remember now, there a separate wire coming in and was not part of the rubber grommet. It had its own rubber piece that comes out the same hole, but it separate from the coils grommet! I need to start drinking later in the day, holy shit.

No. I tried just now with my three quarter and it didn't fit, so a full face likely won't either. It's at least 2 inches too narrow.

I checked the Clymer manual and the Haynes manual; neither mention a specific output. They both say the main fuse is 20amps, so it can't be more than 20a x 12v ~ 240 watts. With a healthy battery, it should read about 14.8v at 3000rpm, but anything over 14v is a good sign. I've pinned this comment just in case someone else knows, they'll see this first.

They were an aftermarket set I won at a silent auction on a charity ride. They were cheap plastic, bounced a lot, and flew open a couple of times (I lost two bottles of beer once 😭). Try to find bags that open on the top, not the sides.

@@zeroreality ok yea once I lost my sweet alcohol I would definitely get a new set

Oh shit really? Fuck! I'm sorry mom.

Thanks. I'm quite happy with the bags themselves, but I haven't ridden in the wet yet, and I'm a little worried they don't seal very well. I'm planning to add a little bit of rubber/foam weather stripping to the inside of the lids just to keep things dry.

@@zeroreality Most water should come off straight from the movement as you ride, but I've got a slight concern as well, especially seeing the lock design. It might keep the water, and soon or later leak to the inside. Now I'm on the hunt for the brackets in EU.

@@istvankovacs4813 www.ebay.ca/itm/295092353219?hash=item44b4dff8c3:g:Z-kAAOSw1tJiztjs They're used, and shipping might be expensive, but it's the first time I've seen them since posting my video.

Using the new gasket works, but I'd be worried about tearing it while working in my cramped garage. The cardboard is disposable, stands up with all the bolts in place, and brings out my artistic side! Did you reinforce the gasket with anything while doing the job?

I got mine at the local Yamaha dealer because I was young and stupid. You can get one from eBay or Kijiji, or maybe FortNine. The MotionPro cables are aftermarket and just as good. fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-black-vinyl-clutch-cable-05-0163

www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07QT3PN74?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

At the end of this video I came to the same kind of conclusion. I can either save money, or I can save headaches. I have enough headaches, so I decided that the next thing I needed to fix would be done in a shop. Simple things like throttle/clutch cables or oil changes I can do easily, but big stuff like the stator I don't want to do again. I ended up selling this Virago and bought a new bike, but my attitude hasn't changed. Anything that can be done in a couple of hours I will handle, but for big stuff inside the powerplant I will go to a garage. However, it is possible to do this job yourself in a day if you're willing. You can buy a decent ratchet tool set for ~$100, and the stator with gasket for ~$100; so it is certainly a LOT cheaper. Be sure to have that special star bit to take out the starter, and make sure the replacement stator grommet fits very snug into the metal (add some extra to it if needed), and don't remove any of the allen bolts while the engine is still warm (you could strip the socket). Whatever you decide dude, good luck!

@@zeroreality well thanks to this video, I was able to get the stator done. I went and bought a socket set and some Alan keys. Still gotta put the starter back in tomorrow, but I got the hard stuff done today. Your video saved my life and I think I came back to it 20 times or more to make sure I was doing it all correctly.

@@zeroreality Well, the job is done. i came back to this video so many times, but i got it. thanks for the help man. bike runs like a dream, if you can ignore the backfiring. :D

@@123dunnboy glad I could help! It's the reason I make videos like this.

I am using Royal Purple 10w40; it's a synthetic blend that covers the bases for warm and cold weather. The manual suggests 20w40 in warm (summer) weather and 10w30 in the cold (autumn). The filter is a FRAM, but I don't remember the model number (I will see if I still have one when I get home). I picked it up at Crappy Tire for cheap.

I found it! FRAM filter is CH6004. It comes with all three rubber gaskets that you'll need for the job, but keep the old ones just in case; I had one box where one of the gaskets was the wrong size before.

@@zeroreality thank you !

The starter solenoid was actually fairly easy by comparison to the rest of this tear-down. The solenoid actuates a lever arm that engages the starter motor gear. That lever arm pivots on the allen bolt you are talking about. I had to get at it with an extender from below as it is pointing up towards the handlebars. If the allen is stuck it may have been over-tightened, and the only thing I can recommend is getting an extender on there and use a hammer on the handle of your extender to jerk it loose. If you just try to apply more and more force you may end up rounding the inside of the allen nut. Good luck, and if you need more help just let me know.

@@zeroreality it seems that it is already a bit rounded inside :/ Makes me wonder what in the world did the previous owner do... Can i assume it is a bolt with metric thread? I hope i dont have to drill it out, but i'm affraid i'll have no other choice if the problem persists

@@1982seba It is a metric bike, so everything should be metric... unless the previous owner did something. Have you tried SAE allens on it?

@@zeroreality it's just a normal set of allen keys i have here

@@1982seba Most sets come with metric and SAE (standard) sizes. If the previous owner replaced that bolt they may have done so with "whatever fits the threads" instead of the correct bolt. However, it might just mean fiddling with it and swearing loudly at it to get it out. That's the method I fall back on!

Neutral! Wow, yeah, it's AC not DC, so that makes perfect sense. Thank you!

Seriously! I could have saved myself 6-8 weeks of the season if I hadn't tried to be so stingy.

Omg I know that now! I bought a set online (not Amazon, just can't remember where) shortly after I made the part 2 video and immediately stopped stripping screws everywhere. They are 100% the tool for the job.

@@zeroreality we all learned the hard way.

Lol, sorry bud. But I can tell you that bike aren't monsters. You can take them apart and put them back together and keep riding like nothing happened. The hand control is pretty straightforward. It takes a little fiddling getting it back together, but anyone can handle it. It's only one bolt to worry about (at the bars) and a bit of playing with the tension; just set it to where your own muscle memory thinks it should be. If you need any help, just let me know.

@@zeroreality i might have to change tge clutch plates. Been watching vids. Looks simple enough if you work carefully and methodically. But i just know Satan and the excorcist girl live in my bike somewhere. Btw its an '85 1000xv virago.

funny

Please do! I ended up selling this bike before it's next change and didn't get to try the method from the pinned comment.

If it is connected at both ends, try pulling the lever while the connection in visible on the engine side. If it doesn't pull on that end, then the cable must be broken or something.

It pulls on that end the cable isnt broke it seems like the clutch isnt wanting to release or something. It pulls the lever on the motor that it is supposed to but still does nothing

If it would let me post my video i would. It was working perfect before we chaged the stator and now that its changed and back together the clutch just doesnt want to engage no matter what u do or how much u adjust but it does move it on the motor it just doesn't do anything at all. Had it on the back stand so the back tire was free to spin and no matter what u do it doesn't engage and stop the tire from spinning or help it get it gear feels like u are shifting without touching the clutch when u put it in gear

@@Joker52601 How fast does the tire spin? Even in neutral is should spin very slowly just from residual friction on the clutch-plates. The clutch-plates are on the other side of the motor, so they couldn't have been touched during a stator replacement.

Ya they was not touched only thing that was touched at all was the clutch release bearing that the cable connect to it had fell out when we took the cover off but put them back the way they was it seemed. It spins a lil in natural like u said and when u have it in gear it spins a lil faster and u can get it to spin a lil faster by hitting the gas but not by much or as fast as it should spin when u hit the gas