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Austin Calix
Приєднався 13 тра 2011
Відео
Serpentine Belt/ Pullet Install Part (3)
Переглядів 103 роки тому
Serpentine Belt/ Pullet Install Part (3)
5.7 Hemi Rocker Arm Install ( part 2)
Переглядів 58 тис.3 роки тому
5.7 Hemi Rocker Arm Install ( part 2)
2006 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi MDS Solenoid Replacement
Переглядів 5 тис.3 роки тому
2006 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi MDS Solenoid Replacement
Nothing weird about blowing through your pushrods.
About to dive into my 2004 Durango. I’ve had it since 2005 and have never changed diff or transfer case fluids. 🙄 200,000+ miles. Thanks for the video.
great vid. thanks bro (what is the purpose of that 3-part cross brace which is bolted to the back of the differential?)
DONT ACTUALLY KNOW BUT i THINK ITS JUST A BRACE FOR THE DIF
Thank you for the video. Appreciate you and your knowledge.
Is the intake longer or shorter?
Did you ever get them out of the ring or did you have to buy a whole new intake?
I DID GET THEM OUT BUT I BOUGHT A NEW INTAKE ANYWAYS
You know the torque specs
Great video bro! 👍🏼
Im watching and thinking i hope he can't be putting it in upside down my shaft was in the other way😂😂 EDIT: NVM HE COUGHT IT
YEAH i SAW THAT, LUCKILY IT WAS PRETTY EASY TO CATCH BUT SHOWS HOW EASY IT IS TO MESS UP. i MAKE SURE i TAKE PICS AND RECORD NOW BEFORE i TEAR EVERYTHING DOWN 😄
Anybody noticed the talented kid in the background balling 🏀. #Swishhhhh
😅
Whats up yall lil help Somebody please respond car stall highway will not crank tow -home diagnostic code p0562 another code p1684 p0700
Sorry ive just seen this. Sounds like a battery issue with wiring or alternator is bad
I think the 700 code is transmission usually meaning u need to change fluid. Really sorry didnt get back to u earlier
Do you got a program that thing can I get one from junk yard
Oil pans on these trucks are absolute garbage, not uncommon for trucks only 4 or 5 years old to be rusted out. They're paper thin
Great video. I need to do that.
Grest vid
Good video my man did you have any play in the rocker arms on the closed valves after the new installation? I just replaced the camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, push rods. It seems to be the valves that are closed that are loose
NOPE. ONCE I TORQUED THE BOLTS EVERYTHING WAS TIGHT.
How much do you tighten those bolts ontop of the rocker arms to?
Using the sequence shown, tighten the rocker shaft bolts as follows: • Snug to 10 N·m (7 ft. lbs.) • Torque to 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs
I recently replaced mines and the engine started misfiring and burning oil.
Yes I also experienced misfires and had to replace the mds solenoids 2 more times because for some reason they went out again. I also changed my coil packs and put good iridium spark plugs in my truck. The misfires stopped
Did it fix your check engine light problem?
Yes
Drop the cross member. x4 18mm bolts. Frees up all the space you need to pull pan down and out.
You have to push the engine up about 2 inches as well to get the pan off.
Thanks for the video
👍🏿
I had a blow out and it melted the wires how do you change the wire harness.. need help asap same vehicle
The entire harness under the hood or specific wires?
What happened when you had that blowout
11min mark lol.
I also have a 2006 5.7 hemi dodge durago and my engin bay looks different. I went with a K&N cold air intake. And an aftermarket cat back Gibson exhaust. Do you have any other modifications that would would be simple but useful
Cold Air intake, performance oil pump, water pump and radiator and air breather on oil cap. The oil pump u wouldnt do unless u had to break the engine down for some reason. Got larger alternator and a new pcm and have a upgraded throttle body. Also new catalytic converters but deleted the resonator & muffler. Finally I went and had it tuned because I'd rebuilt the entire engine and basically all components under hood are new. I wont be racing at the track but I do see a significant difference in performance and it runs a lot cleaner and smoother
Looks like I got some money to spend and work to do
@@fdi333170 Naw, no need to change all that, I only did that because I'd broken the engine down to the pistons and had the truck sitting for 3 months as I replaced everything. Since it took some time I got the money little by little and replaced things as I went. The difference between the performance and the regular parts were actually not that much difference. Since I took my time I could get what I wanted but it wasn't necessary.
@@228276524 so far I've got new trq ignition coils new new coils and sparkplugs new aftermarket fule injector and some RANCHO Rs xl9000 adjustable suspension kit
@@fdi333170 nice, Id like to get a suspension kit next
...you didn't do a second vid to state whether that took care of the cylinder 6 misfire code...
Yes, sorry about that. I did do one but it was so incomplete, I did half the job and realized it wasn't recording but no, the new computer did not fix the problem, it was actually the MDS solenoid. There are 4 of them and the one for cylinder 6 wasn't working. When cruising the hemi shits down 4 of the 8 cylinders to save on gas and number 6 wouldn't working which caused the misfire. I took a shot in the dark and took off the intake manifold again and unpluged the 4 MDS solenoid to test them. I put 2 wire connectors on the prongs of the solenoid and the other end to the positive and negative terminals of a battery. If working they should make a clicking sound as to turn on and off amd number 6 didnt do anything so I knew it was bad. Once I replaced it everything ran great again.
@@228276524 ...aight kool... I got the 4.7L so i was tryin to correlate mine not starting to the ECM/ECU/PCM which i got a new one through a specialty automotive computer programming company...
@@228276524 ...I only hope that's the issue and that I don't have to have it skimmed to the key... ain't tryin to have a money pit outside of routine maintenance...
@@sheftechwon2618 right
Good on you for fixing your mistakes bro, I was tripping out thinking I put my hemi together wrong halfway through lol!
That's funny
Was that the repair I’m having the same issue same damn cylinder too the water cowl leaks
Yeah get a new cawl. Water will leak under and mess up the pcm. Cylinder 6 was the mds solenoid and after getting another one it worked, one of the new ones was defective.
Taking the battery box out is easier way
I thought so at first until I saw how hard at was too take the battery holder out. Had hoses connected and seemed simpler to take off cow which only had a few pins and screws
Great 👍 this job job should be no longer then 20mins 🗽
AC- Great Video I have done this job myself trying to record and remember is not easy and u tend to make mistakes but it’s all good it’s a learning process but I’m sure off camera you went back over your steps good job my friend..
Thank u. I did go back but in hindsite I should have done video to show all the mistakes I caught but I was tired after finding them and after going back to re-do I just wanted to get it done. Ill def do a better job documenting the entire thing next time I repair something. Thank u for taking time to comment.
@@228276524 Thanks for sharing I was wondering if u had any movement in the rocker arms side to side.
I was wondering also. I torqued them all properly and cylinder 8 moves bit side to side
@@johnrieger2707 Hi John I know when I first looked at them they never had any give in them so I did my Cam and lifter replacement with MDS delete kit everything came out ok except the rocker arms I had to get help from dealer they went in and made some adjustments and it’s running fine now.
@@rolankelly9683 I’m trying to avoid dealer 😆. Hoping when I prime oil before initial startup the sideway play will tighten up due to pressure through lifters rods etc🙏🏻
Austin Calix. Check out my comment below. You may need to tear back into it, or at least review some old 70's mopar service manuals and your youtube videos to make sure you installed the rocker shafts correctly.
They are correct. Some of the mistakes made were corrected before complete install. Been running great for nearly a year.
How many pounds is recommended for the rocker arm bolts?
I believe it was something like 20-25 ft lbs but I may be off a bit. The bolts basically stops and then u Do like another half inch rotation.
I randomly came across this video and oddly happen to have a similar need to replace. To help others with this issue, add MDS solenoid in the title and description.
Sounds good, thanks for the suggestion, ill do that
Did you replace and did it take out the check engine light?
And luring the studs before you place isn't to wash off contamination it's to lower the friction for accurate torque
U lost me, what is luring the studs. Did I say something like that, don't remember, lol
@@228276524 lubing
@@littlebittathisnthatfirear8048 gotcha
Remember torque sequence my man going from one bolt to the adjacent one is dangerous
I’m doing this job right now. Im at the rocker arms and push rod part. I got the idea how to do it now thanks to ur video. But Always look at specs before though. They want u to tighten the middle bolt first then Tightening them outwards sequence. <-0-> thanks for posting this
Yeah I ended up retorqing later, had an issue and pulled the heads back off and retorqed. Issue was not with torqing but with head gasket. Didnt have time to do the video a second time 👍🏿
The blocks should be on top not under
Dealership at least some of them have ATF 4 synthetic transmission Mopar fluid . Just changed mine differential with 75W90 in my Chrysler Concorde . Good job .
You don’t know what the hell you’re doing
Your right, I was learning as I worked and it turned out really good. Made some mistakes but ended up catching those mistakes and fixing them. Would be nice to get some input instead of criticism, I would welcome the knowledge if u know something I don't which Im sure u do
He may not be perfect, but at least he caught his mistakes before they became problems.
@@crailey4g63 maybe not. Something he did not verbalize and he should have. Is that the rocker shafts have a particular orientation, which as far as I know he never addressed. You will note that the shafts have one notch at one end. If you were familiar with old mopar rocker shaft engines, by orienting the notch correctly, the oiling holes in the shaft for lubricating the rockers is positioned properly on the bottom side of the shaft where the friction is the greatest. If the oiling holes are not oriented properly, the rocker bores will gall on the shaft. This can DESTROY the engine. I don't blame the OP, because he’s young and inexperienced, and I don't think even the factory service manual goes into it, either.
Clearly you put the push rods in the wrong hole. Check check and recheck my man.
Yes u are right and I did catch my mistake before putting everything back together, thanks for the reply, Im still learning and any feedback is welcomed
I wanted to thank you for taking time to make this video. I know that this job would have taken half the time if you didn't have to video everything. This video helped me figure it out and there isn't a shit ton of videos on the subject. Thanks brother!
Thank u Robert. I really didn't think anyone would watch but Im glad to know it was helpful to u.
Yes me 2
a wealth of information here.
shorter push rods on top ??
intake on top, exhaust the longer ones on the bottom,
Yo bro you need to hmu got questions about my truck
Hmu? ☺️
You're pretty brave to figure out things as you go and also record with one hand👍
THANK YOU, SO GLAD I DID BECAUSE I LEARB=NED SO MUCH AND NOW CAN DO IT SOMEWHAT WITH EASE, AT LEAST WITH NO FEAR
@@228276524 I been contemplating on doing a cam upgrade to a 6.4 cam,I don't feel like spending $4000+ for a shop to do it, their argument is heads have to come off,but I've read plenty of articles where you can do it with heads on, by turning the old cam several times( 720°) so the lifters can go back in place,of course I still have to remove rocker arms and timing chain cover, radiator fan, intake and valve covers..
@@angelcedeno26 I guess u could but its very tricky with those lifters still in, u have to spin it perfect as not to damage them. After taking all the other things off it may just be best to take the heads off to be sure but u can do that yourself. Will be pretty easy with everything else taken off.
Also, I would change and upgrade lifters if I'm going to change cam, only makes sense. Dont know year and model of vehicle but usually u can change lifters and keep old cam but if u change cam your gonna want to change the lifters.
After re- reading I think u are saying you'd take lifters out without taking off head, is that correct?