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8FC8 Bios Password sucessfully removed with XGecu T48 on GD25B256D SOC16 - Big Thanks for your great instructions! (little tricky is the Clip to bring in correct position an the Bios Chip)

Hello does this method work fo all the 8FC8 suffix

formatando o ssd não resolve ? to com um mini dell 3080 com senha

EXELENTE ESPLICACION GRACIA SALUDOS DE COLOMBIA

Ffs just get on with it 😅

Very useful video, thank you! I have same car as yours and also have had the same problem for past 10 days. I dissasembled tachometer/speedometer and noticed nothing strange about components, but some insect was touching this yellow foil with contacts and I removed it. Now there is no more buzzing (I tried if it's working properly many times before assembling) and I hope that was the only issue.

Bios PW was down for a bit near the end of 2023 but it seems its been back up and running for most or all of this year as of July 2024. The repo owner did mention he'd been working on a keygen for some time but he's gone silent and not really given any insight on an ETA... or any major updates at all. I could technically flash a new bios or whatever... but I'm really not too keen on tasking myself with that. I don't like soldering and I'd prefer a software approach. Hopefully some kind soul chooses to give the algo instead of making people pay extortionate amounts (you guys know who I'm talking about lol)

I wouldn't say that they were terrible, but they did serve a good position in the market. Being a low-cost entry level drive, they appeared to do quite well in terms of making the drive fairly reliable with the simple tape seal. I have one of these made in Malaysia oddly enough rather than China, and it uses a different spindle cap at the top. Other than that, it looks identical to that one made in China. Mine unfortunately is completely unusable and I believe has shipping damage, but it still does seek fine. They weren't the best drives, but considering the affordable cost when new, they did pretty well.

Welcome. Please help! I bought a Sony MXD D4. Unfortunately, the minidisc is faulty. It was suggested in a Sony Facebook group that the Sony MDS-JE440 or Je470 minidisc mechanics are exactly the same as the D4. Are any of these really good? Or what would you suggest? Unfortunately, the Sony service here in Budapest no longer repairs such devices. Thank you for your help.

but if this is pass reset only by changing the position jumper, It's like entering through the window, when the door is open

basically what we have to do, is restore the ipod on itunes until gives the error, then restore the RBM both with a partition manager or other ways and it should work after when connecting back? i still even struggle getting my ipod to be found on the pc by itunes, it seems it takes a long time even just connecting and it makes every single other program open struggle so much. i am almost tempted to even buy a old 2007 macbook to just avoid any of this hassle.

Hello friend, your video inspired me to try to reprogram the BIOS of my Dell 3080 micro myself. However, in my country there was no soic16 pliers ready, I had to get diagrams on the internet myself and solder the wires to fit the soic8 adapter. I'm sure I did it right. However, I can't get my T48 recorder to recognize the chip, could you tell me which chip option you are using on the recorder? Because although it is soic16, it is on a soic8 adapter, and I saw that it is like that on yours too.

Awesome video man

So I was searching on the motherboard and found what looks like a key symbol, like a car key for example, I’m wondering if that means to unlock?? It’s right next to what looks like could be a jumper?? I don’t think they would take the jumper off, perhaps they have hidden it and made it look different…just a thought

Is possible add hdmi and turn this thing in a mini monitor?

Dell wants to contribute to e waste, another company to report and boycott. We need to establish a repository for bios for this series of computer. Maybe before powering it up the first time people need to read the bios before they get locked by Dell. Now I did have a laptop that did not have anything shown on the board however after talking to a tech at an authorized repair center, they showed me the two hidden pads where you short out while powering it up. What’s worse is now Winblows will also lock the bios to their software which is illegal. Those bastards have no right to lock one’s bios to their crap. Now why exactly do we need to stop at 1530 as we fill data with FF? Please explain.

Your computer out of warranty and need to reset the password? Good luck.

Ooooorrrr, after you talked to the celestials, stood on your head for 6 minutes and 35 seconds facing towards Mecca, you can get a clean BIOS binary from the Internet and flash it. The only issue with that is that you need to find a reputable site to get the binary from. You have the tools to flash it, so that is not an issue. But your way works too. Since the Dell BIOS is so huge your way might even be better. 😇

Soo do you know where I can get a bios mod for a the 6/7th gen dell mobos to get xeon cpus in to them I seen online that you can mod the bio to get the cpu to work in the mobo

I hope the rear jack stand isn’t too important 😬😂

Not really a surprise it was a bad power supply, those cheap one's in various products go bad all the time and don't tend to last past a few years before dying. Regardless nice to see the internals of the device, and how cost-effectively it is put together based on the design and build of it, seems super simple.

#1: I hope you have a good reason for attempting to do this and show it on UA-cam for a legit data retrieval need. #2: You have a lot to learn about data retrieval and should probably start by learning on old IDE basic drives (and yes master/slave/single drive configs along with companion software past SpinRite). The only reason I know of for posting this is to get personal info from someone stupid enough to throw away a computer or hard drive without destroying it. Be ethical my NEWB... I was a Cracker. Not a Hacker and did well making a decent living as Big Brother.

14:00 Did you check if the jumper of the IBM drive was correctly configured (master/slave/single drive)?

Thank you 🙏

That’s what you call common sense

Do you know the brand of your red CF to SD adapter, where did you buy it from? I heard that some of them don't work for iPod Mini.

That really is a shame on this one, these are really nice drives when they work and are fast. I was not expecting to see that damage to the platters, but I guess it was hinted at when the drive struggled to spin up. The heads were creating a drag and not allowing the motor to properly start. I believe you could very well be right about the excessive contact start-stop cycles, but also it almost appears that the heads were dragging when they spun down, eventually sticking to the platters, and ruining them. Every time heads drag when the drive spins down, depending how bad it is, it will eventually damage the platters, ruin the heads, cause a crash, or all of the above as we see here. I believe a very probably cause is that the actual coating they used on the platters that prevents the heads from sticking began to break down, which lead to the failure of this drive. As far as I know there isn't anything you can do when that coating breaks down, since it will just get worse over time and eventually lead to what is seen in the video. Shame because these are already difficult to find, sad to see it had to go that way but thank you for uploading this video, it also sheds answers as to what can fail on specific models or what goes wrong due to time as well.

Shame to see so much damage caused from both age and handling. Those dings in the platters are of course from the heads hitting the platters, which in most cases can actually kill the head entirely since it is extremely fragile, same thing as if you were to let the heads touch each other like you did in the video, most of times it will just kill those heads since they contacted each other. Also I've noticed dings in the platters can also come from extremely bad stiction, which also appears to be the case with this one since you said it was really sticking when you went to spin it up. As for the larger heads, I believe they are likely servo heads and allows the drive to track where it is on the platters, and any sort of damage to the servo surface or heads causes failure since the drive cannot calibrate or determine where it is on the platter anymore and therefore cannot verify a location of which area is that area specified since that head is damaged or that area of the platter is damaged and the data is now unreadable. What a shame to see....

One issue is you let the heads touch, this acts like very fine sandpaper and thus destroys the heads instantly, I would recommend using a real hair comb to hold them apart.

This drive has died due to media failure. This is a very common fault with the 34300 and 35100. They were WDs first 5400RPM consumer drives and the QC was not great during the time yours was made. So the media has faded to the point that there is no more servo data, so the heads will sit there until they pick up something. Other faults include PCB Failure from cheapened chips and head failure, but your drive clearly shows media failure.

I've never seen where the actual rubber degrading leaves marks where the gases have escaped, that is very strange and this video is the first time I've seen something like that. It definitely ruined the bottom platter and if the drive did work hitting that area would cause damage to bottom head or the drive would have bad sectors, so that is definitely even more concerning adding to the problems these already have. I actually think your method of making sure the platters were in alignment was very clever since if they are taped together as long as you don't flex the tape then it should stay near perfectly in alignment, so good thinking! I'm sure you could've used a repair insert that they sell on eBay, but that wouldn't do much for the rubber gases that damaged the bottom platter unfortunately unless that stuff comes off. I assume the heads are still good, so they definitely could be used to save a drive with bad heads as long as they aren't damaged in any way.

Fascinating to see the internals of one of these. Quite unfortunate to see these have failed, given their absurd rarity these days. Another design with the crux of the degrading bumper, what a shame. As a whole, CDC/Imprimis drives in general are exceedingly rare over here in Europe; I think I've only seen one in person. Correlating to their market placement it makes sense, but it's a shame a lot of these will disappear with very little documentation of their existence remaining. Thanks for sharing.

Wow! This was an extremely interesting video, thanks so much for uploading it and taking the time to share what you noticed. I find it rather sad and unfortunate that you have two very similar drives, and they both had all of those issues shown and failed near identically. First thing was seems like some of the higher-end Seagate drives like those with that PCB design are just prone to failing, and the fact you had those two that both had the capacitors blow on the PCB supports that theory. Second and most sadly, I had no clue whatsoever that these had any sort of rubber stopper in them, and your act of uploading this video makes me glad to be aware of that issue as well. I believe what you said to have been the cause of death to be true, the bumpers melted, and when the drive would spin up it would grind down the heads and eventually cause them to dislodge or get damaged, and stiction possibly as well. I'm wondering, when you would turn the spindle by hand, did it feel it would hesitate and resist from the heads sticking? Or would you suggest that the bumper melting was what tore a few of the heads off as the drive would spin up and grind against the spindle? Hard for me to tell in the video really, something you would have to feel in person to likely know.

Just randomly stumbled across your video, interesting. Not sure if you knew already, but for some reason Maxtor made the Molex connector completely upside down on their drives, this was the design they used, so as you showed in the video adapters like that will not work. Something else is this is a SCSI drive, it requires a command from the controller to spin up as that is what the controller will request the drive to do, simply applying power to the drive will not spin it up most of the time on SCSI drives unless the jumper settings are changed.