Відео

It’s possible you have a bad sensor. Will it start the process or does nothing happen at all?

It makes it tough. I had to weigh how many transmissions I’d be pulling vs all the other work I would be doing.

Outstanding. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks!

Yes and no. If you need it for a big truck the. Yes, it worked great for that. I’ve since sold my truck and primarily work on smaller cars. For that the lift arms are too long(still work fine, it’s just tough to get on the correct lift points), at least in the configuration I have. I was limited on the width of the main posts because of my post tension slab. I I could have setup the posts 8-10” wider it would be amazing. So yes, still working great.

@@DrivingForwardBuilds Thanks for the quick reply. Was mainly wanting the extra width. Majority of work will be Toyota 4x4s, Ram 3500 SRW and other trucks. Sounds like it'd be good for that.

It’s actually far more sophisticated than that. What you’re describing is the worst case scenario. Before that it is actually using the abs system to systematically apply braking independently to one of the 4 truck wheels. Using a combination of inputs from the tractions control, system, srs yaw sensors and ABS. It’s worth looking into if you understand the engineering.

Dang.... Thanks for updating that!

Dang. Inflation has been rough. I’ve been saving for an AC unit and feel like they have almost doubled in price.

Yes. Especially when lifting closer to the limit.

We used Part #:SP589 (CYFS12YT6)

@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench 100% agree on filling the filters. I do that. Some videos I talk about it and others I just do it. It’s funny how divided the community is on that topic. As for the disconnect I don’t really find I need to take it off to take the upper filter off, like you mentioned. It works both ways though. Also make sure to prime with the key. These new trucks are really good about purging air, but even still it’s important. Thanks for the comment!

That’s a great question. That’s because the dew point, or point at which condensation forms changes with temperature and pressure change. The compressor raises the air to almost or sometimes above 300 degrees Fahrenheit and 175psi. Then that air goes into the tank and cools, forming condensation, even if from only a low outside humidity. Larger volumes of air will make more condensation. This is a basic dryer setup which may need to be upgraded for some based on their volume of air needs.

Thanks for actually putting time into that answer bro! It show that the you really care.

Very nice upgrade! I like the yellow too 😊

@@user-zf6dj3hw6q it sure stands out!

You are welcome!

Thank You! 🙂

It doesn’t have turn signals either ;-)

It's an E39 M5. Long tube headers, catless, X pipe and custom mufflers.

Right.

I got mine on Amazon. I have a link to it in the description.

The best way to get your parts right is to use RealOem.com to find part numbers, and then order from a reputable site like FCP, Turner, or ESC.

Thanks for watching! I'm hoping it gets cooler soon!

Thanks for the sub. Best of luck with your repair. LMK if you have questions.

Glad I could help!

Thats why they don't work!

Wdym blinker fluid is the worst, headlight fluid is wayyyyyy worse.

I here you on that. Unfortunately on this car a new set of OEM lights cost more than the car is worth. Even the aftermarket lights are $$$ and near the quality.

On average it’s about 15* cooler than outside. Before insulating the inside would heat soak so much it would 5* or more hotter than outside.

No problem 👍 good luck with your install.

Glad I could help! Best of luck.

We rented the blower at Home Depot. It’s free if you buy enough insulation. And……if you happen to buy just enough to get it free, then not need all the insulation you can take the “extra” back and you still got the rental.

Thanks, it was a fun play on words when mounted to my Focus ST. Had RELSS8 on my Trailblazer SS as well.

Thanks for the insight. I will continue to work on my many many problems organically.

What do you mean?

Can u make it hunt

If you’re referring to loop like a cam no. It’s just controlling fuel and timing, not lift or duration.

I didn't change that filter because it is the "fresh air" filter, or "exchange air" filter. I have that system turned off so it's not pulling extraordinarily hot air in from outside. It's up for debate on if this is good or not, but I have chosen to turn it off. We are in and out of the doors so often here that we get plenty of make up air in the house. As far as which way to install the filter, you could check the air flow in the attic. In my case it uses a secondary fan motor, so I can determine which way the air flows. In your case you would need to check the duct work in the attic to determine that. It likely flows from the roof vent to the filter and then into the duct work of the furnace inlet.

I am always thinking, waiting for an airbag to pop off. Though in reality I've never seen it happen, even after working in multiple shops.

When we are averaging under 110 outside the garage is 15-18* cooler inside. Above 110 and it lessens to 12-15*. Enough to make it workable with a swamp cooler out there.

On avereage the garage is 15-18* cooler than out side. When I add in my swamp cooler it gets a little better. Before any insulation the garage would actually heat up past ambient due to the heat soak on the doors and walls. Sometimes 5-10* hotter than outside.

I don't think so. In the wall you have many different protrusions like nails, screws, wires, pipes and even small splinters of wood that will catch on the wall bats and make it very difficult to slide them in. Possible yes, easier, not likely.

No. There are way to many obsticles in the wall. Even just the small splinters would catch on the bats and make it very difficult to slide down.

Thanks for your reply, yeah I think you’re right. With batts they say not to jam them in too hard so they are able to fluff unrestricted because it’s the trapped air in the batt that aids in the insulation. I’ve seen thermal imaging of batts where it’s been shown that whenever the batts have been compressed and not cut out properly to make room for obstructions, the effectiveness of the batts are significantly reduced. Why is the blow in stuff different and recommend to compact fill the void? Wouldn’t compact filling reduce the amount of trapped air thus reducing the efficiency?

@@carmeloxuereb8733 I'm not totally sure why they call for "dense" packing the cellulose. But the R-value goes up as it's packed tighter. From what I've read the r-value increases by 1/2 point from R3.5 to R4 per inch. Not having air space also helps to stop fire propagation. If packed in tight enough it can also be used as an air sealer, though I wouldn't omit any vapor barriers because I was using cellulose.

Thanks!

Dang 10x. Willing to share the name of the place you found?

You could request the additional seals as part of the service. Realistically it should only add a minimal amount of labor charge.

@@smamas114 Wow, that's a lot. Are they replacing the solenoids for that much? On my car I had to do the Job twice. After this video, I had a solenoid fail around 400 miles later and had to pull it all back apart again.

@@DrivingForwardBuilds I think they will change them only if they are bad , i am going to ask them this question

It was a rediculous amount of work. I didn't know this system before, but now I know it very well. 😁

Thanks for the comment! Appreciate the insight as well. It's tough to cut the videos down and keep enough content not to leave someone without a crucial step. I'm still learning to put together a video though and I agree.

I didn't know that. What causes the brass to fail?

@@DrivingForwardBuilds ro water is extremely aggressive. Stainless or plastic are best. If you Google it, it will do a better job explaining than what I could type here.

I replaced both.

@@DrivingForwardBuilds thank you I have a issue mine doesn’t have those bolts do you have any idea how take it off?

@@davidbarrera781sorry. I haven’t seen one without the bolts. Does it twist off?

@@DrivingForwardBuilds I found the way I have to use Ring Pliers

Thanks!

I had a bucket ready to go but in this case I figured an additional change might help with my Vanos issues.

Glad it helped

I’ll take that into account next time. Thanks for the feedback.

It should be the same system. Key on, hit hazard switch 3 times and the horn will honk. Then you can go through the learning process.

Thank you.

That’s a good question, that I have not yet addressed. Couldn’t hurt to give it a shot.