Відео

Hahah! A colonialism… ‘mess around with’ or ‘attempt to adjust/pull/remove’.

You’re welcome!! Good luck!

Hey, That’s a tricky question because it depends how the codes are logged. So take what I’m about to say with some levity. The bad or poor quality DEF error is usually logged as a function of inadequate performance and is problematic. Draining and refilling the DEF tank will not make the code go away unless the system detects better quality DEF. It *might* be possible to make a hard reset of the vehicle by disconnecting the positive and negative wires to the batter and touching *the wires* together off the battery and holding for 30 seconds to a minute. However, if the codes are hardcoded, then it will need a computer to remove the codes. The GAPIID tool has some functionality and can clear some codes - but it depends on if the sensor continues to detect inadequate DEF. To reduce that risk, you will need to clean out the injector (which goes into the exhaust). It’s a major PITA, and I do know a few people who were able to clear the codes. However, when my injector broke off, I did need JLR to reset the code, as the GAPIID would not - even with the new injector fitted. To be honest, I am not certain how the poor quality DEF is identified, and I suspect that such errors are actually some type of DEF injection issue. Using only the best quality DEF is critical (as I mention in this video).

You are very welcome! And thanks for the sub!!

I can’t help you on an RV, but the defender is plated up to 8200lbs. My rule of thumb is that large heavy trailers tow better than short light ones, but I also don’t much like going over 3/4 of the rating. That means you’re still fine at 6050lbs - and legally comfortable above it. I have, of course, towed heavier regularly with the defender (and have even gone above the recommended towing capacity… 🤫) and they do it with ease. However, bear in mind that to ride comfortably, you need to extend the tow hitch somewhat as shown here (which means in North America that your nose weight will be too heavy - adjust by loading more to the rear of your trailer). You won’t have any issues with power or handling, and if you spec the right one with the advance tow functions, it’ll help you back it up and give you tow assist for breaking etc). I’ve a photo somewhere on my insta (shedlocktwothousand) with the defender towing a bunch of cedar shingles and tar paper. It scaled out at 11,450lbs and towed it perfectly fine for 500km. It did not perform well on fuel, though!

@@shedlock2000 Thank you for the response, very helpful. I let the deal fall thru... unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be a good candidate for me.. maybe I'm just old, lost my Man Card years ago but.. things like being unable to open the rear door for the dog, extending the hitch or moving the power jack to the side, etc. all seem like too much for me. I've seen some that have moved the tire to the roof, thought about that but... damn. If I had a small trailer, like the rPod you had (jealous) then I would do it for sure.

Sorry you let the deal go - I’m sure it would have been a good vehicle for you! Moving things isn’t actually that difficult - the place you bought your trailer off should have helped. The RPod was a grand little trailer, I miss it a lot.

Glad it worked!

I think there’s quite a few of them down under - and I’m very sure they have some we don’t!

I’m not sure which resistor you’re referring to!? Do you mean the resistor for the heater fan?

😁 Thanks!! That’s good of you to say! 😊 I’m not hard to find, but it takes quite some time to make the feet. I’m still trying (when I have some space for it) to try and get some cast from my moulds.

Hi! Thanks for sliding by! No, these do 265/60/20s not rub anywhere under normal operating conditions. I think I observed some very slight running at extreme articulation somewhere, but it wasn’t severe enough to ever worry about. However, not all body panels are put on the same and I know some peel who have experienced a bit more contact than I had (this has always been the case - especially on LR3s, which seem to be made much more loosely)!

You’re very welcome!!!

That’s a good comparison feedback! Thanks for the input. Did you get your new Nokian ATs from Kaltire? I’ve heard some people are having difficulty finding stock!

@@shedlock2000 yes, only Kal tire stock Nokians here. Haven't seen anyone else stock them, I don't know why.

@@frustratedalien666that’s what I thought. I’m glad they now have stock again. I’m not sure why they ran out, but for a while they were impossible to find (from all accounts).

Context and rambling isn’t for everyone! Thanks for your comment!

I actually just serviced it last week (late! I’ve struggled to get to it with one thing or another). This one has got 135,000miles on it now. Nowhere near my last one (over 700,000miles). No check engine lights, but I have developed a slight clunk at about 10mph when slowing down. Sounds like a worn bush, but it’s not consistent and very hard to identify!

@@shedlock2000 217,000kms is impressive. You must do a lot of driving

I do do a fair amount of miles, yeah. I drove to Vancouver and back (about 1000 miles each way) 8 times in the last 8 months alone!

@@rippinmachines yeah! I cover a fair few miles, to be honest! That’s why my last one had such big mileage. It’s dropped off a lot this past few years since Taryn and I separated, but I used to cover around 35-50k per year (and in the old L322, sometimes more)!

Thanks for your feedback.

Hey Ryan, I’m sorry to hear about your issues! I hope it’s resolved soon. I’m afraid I don’t have any good experiences for you. JLR denied my issues existed and refused to resolve them altogether. I sold the vehicle a couple of months after trying to send it back with 53 documented (by me with video and ECM data). I don’t know how best to advise you, but I suspect they will try to hand the thing back to you unrepaired. The term they used here was ‘fault not verifiable’ - despite my showing the garage manager the fault in the parking lot! My only advice is to record every fault you have on video and then take screenshots of any codes generated. This didn’t work for me, but it made the matter much harder to argue!

Glad the video helped, Lee! Good luck with your new ride. When you get it, replace all the oils and make sure you service them frequently!

Pleased to have helped a bit! Stay awesome, Bill!

Hey Wougle! Thanks for stopping by the channel! I hope the video helped (with the oil, that is). I’m pleased you enjoy listening in - there’s an odd hour or two of content to wade through! I’ll ramble on some new content when I get a minute! Good to have you here!

Hey Larry, That’s a tough break; startups are really hard on a chain, as the oil drains from the tensioners over time, permitting the chain to slip. The answer to your question is that it is occasionally possible to have avoided any damage, but it’s unlikely. The engine is a transition engine (meaning that there’s no room between the valves and the pistons if they hit top dead centre and the valves are improperly open due to a slipped chain) and so damage to at least one of the pistons and valve sets *usually* occurs. That said, some people have got away with simply replacing the chains and tensioners and booting it back up. You won’t know until you start to pull it apart! Good luck!

@@shedlock2000 Thanks so much my friend for the good info. I found out today I was one of the Blessed ones as my mechanic put everything back together and she fired up happily. He says she is even smoother now so I'm excited. He is a bit old school so I'll have to reset my maintenance required and reduced Performance warnings myself as he told me I dont like tinkering with the on board computers on these lol

​@@larrygoode1753 That is excellent news! I am pleased to hear it. It largely depends upon how quickly the engine stalls out when things give up. Sounds like you were lucky! I'd buy a lottery ticket this week while you're up! In terms of avoiding the issue again, I recommend more frequent oil changes (at least every 5000 miles or so). Resetting the faults will only take a GAP IID tool or similar, and should be relatively easy to achieve. I am certain that you either have one or know someone with one! Godd luck with your ride and I am glad she's rolling again!

@@shedlock2000 I appreciate you my friend! I'm very excited 😁 and your absolutely correct I know a person with one to reset everything. I read you can reset those fault codes with the truck as well? Possible myth lol

@@larrygoode1753glad that you have someone. I actually don’t know the answer to that - I’ve never tried resetting them without a code reader! I always recommend throwing the reader on in order to check what else may or may not have cropped up.

Oh! It’s not like me to overlook the process! Bad Firthy! Ok, the switch simply pushes in, however, you need two curved plastic trim tools to press it out. If you look closely in the body of the switch, you can see the clips that secure it into the dash. Using the two trim tools. You should gently press out the body of the switch by sliding the edges of the tool behind the lip of the button. If I get a few minutes, I’ll try and record a video on how to do it.

Glad the video helped! I ran the 265/60/20s off, and they were great all the way through with no issues. You may even be able to tweak the speedo now with the GAPIID tool.

Glad that you found that the video was helpful! I have used an odd twist here and there, but it can cause weak spots if the chain is used (a very rare occurrence, obviously). I tend to adjust the chain properly if it’s my trailer or I’m keeping it for a while! It doesn’t matter how clever a person is so long as they can tow safely! I’m happy to help and happy to learn too!

It’s become the house-style, these days! Lol

I’m pleased that you got yours fixed! It’s certainly a tougher job when the vehicle is hot!

Hmmm, depends on the Indy and where you’re located. It’s not much less at the Indy in Calgary than it is to take it to JLR. I’d say the cheapest you’re going to find with OEM parts is about $6,500CAD. I know some people in the IS have been able to get it done for $5,000USD.

No, sadly not. The vehicle went in to JLR many times to be resolved but despite this and other videos and a physical demonstration, they denied that the issue existed - which was particularly difficult when I showed the shop manager the issue in person outside the shop, and it came out of the shop with ‘fault not reproducible’. I sold the defender some time afterwards, as the fault became part of a far larger list of issues JLR wouldn’t fix. I suspected the throttle sensor, but a friend also felt there may be issues with the inlet manifold/throttle body, as I was having additional issues with fuel consumption, fluttering of power, surging of power on hills, and unstable cruise control that wasn’t there when the vehicle was new. We never did get to the bottom of the issues, as JLR essentially walked away from the warrantee. You should check out my videos on my attempts to return the vehicle to them. In the end I had so many faults I had to sell it, but JLR only offered me $50k for it after 10 months - so they clearly knew there were issues they had to resolve and their buy-back offer reflects the costs involved in putting it right.

Glad to hear the video was useful! ☺️

🤣🤣 good job there’s a translation! lol In my experience, they struggle the most in cold weather or when camping. But topping up the battery from time to time will also help maintain your battery life as well! Good luck!

Slide the gearshift lever to the left when in the drive position.

Mines got the twisty knob

Ahh! A lucky chap with a 2012! We don’t get that here in Canada, so I’m not actually sure! Is there an ‘S’ for sport mode on the rotary gear shift? If so, I suspect that it’ll put it in command shift when you put it in that and pull one of the flappy paddles. You may also be able to pull one of the paddles to activate the command mode too.

Lol I have a 3.6tdv8 2007 and 4.4tdv8 2012. I also used to have the 4.2 v8 supercharged. I figured it out. The same way you cancel it you put it on. Thanks.

Good to know! I did wonder if that was the way.

Can you explain more what you mean about “no Laden” battery? Im afraid I don’t understand. Are you trying to say that your battery is dead and won’t charge?

Battery new alternor new no charging

All fuse ok

Hmmm. If you’re sure it isn’t charging (and by that I mean that you’ve measured the current to the battery while the engine is running), then I suspect you have issues with the battery control circuitry. From what I recall, the new defender has a smart battery charging circuit, and when replacing the batter (or alternator) the charge cycles will need to be reset and that the vehicle will need to be ‘told’ that there is a new battery and alternator installed. I believe that you will need to plug it into Pathfinder to add that kind of information. I’m not absolutely sure how the smart battery charging circuitry works, but I suspect that there is a battery control module which may be broken or working badly. However, to diagnose that you’ll also need Pathfinder (pathfinder is the Land Rover computer - very few independents have one).

I can try. What do you need, exactly?

I’m pleased to have you here, Jim! Sorry I’m so long I between releases at the moment! Good luck in your deep dive!

Which 2012 Range Rover is that?

I tried to post the link but you tube removed it.

ahhhh! What wa she title of the video? I’ll try to look it up!

Give me a few minutes. I have just got back from work. It’s late here in western Manitoba! 😎

I am going to do a quick job on my Arctic White L322. Supercharger tensioner pulley.

Yes, but it’s very snug! It takes quite a bit of fiddling to get it to slide on!

@@shedlock2000 thank you for your reply!

You’re welcome! ☺️

The crossover pipes were an issue on the 4.4Na and the 4.2SC, but I haven’t heard of an issue with the 5.0SC. I swap the crossover pipe on those older engines every 100,000 miles as it was a known issue. The water pumps tend to do about that, so I swap the crossover pipe when I do the pump. On the 5.0 there are some pipes under the blower that need to be done when the supercharger isolator is changed (also about 75-100k miles). They tend to crack spectacularly and there is a hose outlet that can sometimes sheer altogether.

@@shedlock2000 I finally found my L322 after searching for quite a while. Went for the best I could find. Oil changed every 6 months or 5000kms, all new rotors and brakes, tranny serviced, deployable side steps, control arms and ball joints done, very clean with no rust on the body or frame . Autobiography (360 cams, wood/leather steering wheel etc.) and only 113,000km. No timing chain issues and I just want to do my best to avoid any catastrophic failures. Also comes with a powertrain warranty that covers me to 2026. Very excited!

@@rippinmachines Outstanding! I hope you get good service from her. Sounds like just the right thing. What year is it, which engine, and what did you pay in the end?

@@shedlock2000 5L SC. I've read a lot about the coolant crossover pipes / water pump and plan to inspect with an endoscope. It is pretty mint with most wear items addressed...so I am hoping for it to be problem free for a while. It was also stored inherited garages its whole life so all the weather striping / window seals are mint.

@@rippinmachines Ahh, yes. There are some issue with the crossover pipe, but they're generally less prevalent than the two pipes that run under the supercharger. You can try to take a look with the scope, btu IDK if you'll see much nor whether or not you'd be able to see anything indicative. I would suggest you buy them to keep in stock (just in case) and replace same whenever you swap the waterpump and/or SC isolator.

You’re very welcome! Glad I could help!

Thanks! ☺️ The trouble with common sense is that it’s not very common these days!

@@shedlock2000 preach brother!

🤣

Hi Simon! I’ve been too busy to post a follow up short - but you’ve reminded me to do so… They did send me a new strut, and it behaves largely similarly. My friend’s, however, does not do it. I was going to swap their strut for mine to see if the geometry of the bracket is relevant or if it’s a bad batch of struts. I’m under pressure with some other things at the moment, and may not get too it soon, but watch this space! lol

Yeah, that’s very true. The days of rolling, bumbling V8s have gone. My carbed V8 in the RRC sounded lovely under the bonnet, but this thing sounds like a rattley piece of junk in comparison. I’ve never heard the knocking sound in mine, but the exhaust is likely very different. I have frequently heard the peculiar knocking that comes from the fan pulley (probably), which is similarly intermittent and comes when the engine is hot (but occasionally also on start up).

I’m sorry to hear about the bad luck. There were a variety of ‘parts-bin’ builds from about 2011 on. Given the prestige of the Range Rover at the time, I suspect the L322 and L405s received the lions mane of the new bits on their builds. Of course, that also doesn’t mean that there wasn’t a defective hardening or similar on later design parts that were installed in your engine (assuming it had the later equipment) - parts do just fail, it’s just that the later design failed significantly less than the earlier ones.

@@shedlock2000 I bought the LR4 with 50k miles, excellent condition. By 100k I knew of the potential problem and had parts at the ready. I think I've had good luck making it to 173k, but then again I'm the type that is always listening and scrutinizing my machines. I've just always been disappointed that mnfgrs have intentionally engineered products to have limited lifespan. My other truck is now at 750,000 miles and timing has never been a problem, won't be either past a million because it was engineered well (Isuzu Diesel, GMC Duramax) the rest of that truck is a different story. My LR4 will have a long life ahead.

I share your worries about poor design. This issue, however, was (relatively) quickly recognised as poor material hardening; the shift in design was done quite quickly in the engine’s history to resolve an observed engine issue and they doubled down and modified design as well. I’m actually surprised JLR responded so quickly (given their history with the original L322 front diffs and other such issues over various models, they don’t have a good reputation for resolving obvious issues quickly). I’ve done well with these engines and my earlier 2011 had over 700k on the engine (box was changed around 650k with original chains and guides (pre-update tensioners) before I moved him on to pick up the L663, so I’m not convinced that there’re many inherent design issues with the engine. I suspect that a significant cause of engine trouble is excessive JLR oil change intervals during its warranty period, over-enthusiastic or under-enthusiastic driving, and a general lack of attention to temperature management and oil selection. However, it is clear that some design flaws are innate (such as the supercharger isolator, which seems to be a consumable service part every 100k or so).

@@shedlock2000 Job is done, updated parts installed by myself so worries are put to bed for now. I completely understand that ALL manufacturers engineer a "lifetime" into their products or else they wouldn't have much of a market. Study the lightbulb and how the largest manufacturers of them got together to make them last shorter. Look at the LED... promising, however the power supplies (drivers) die early... Hmmmm. My Duramax was engineered by Isuzu, it just passed 750,000 miles this week with no timing issues so go figure.

Sweet! Glad you got it in! How was the install? Everything go according to plan? Did you replace the SC isolator at the same time? Well, like I said, my 3.5NA RRC ran 1.1 million km without ever needing any engine work and my last L332 did 700k without having any timing work done as well, so I don’t know that there’s an innate timing issue here so much as material build defect that was resolved shortly after the issue became known. I do take your point, however, about built-in failure.

Thanks for the tips! That’s very helpful info for others. I’ll take a look through the video to see if I can find the torx sizes and add them to the video description.

@@shedlock2000 Thanks! Cheers from Washington, DC

Thank you! My videos do tend to the longer side, but this is generally because I try not to miss out the tricky and incidental stuff that everyone else does. There’s a lot of ‘just do it’ videos out there! 😆

🤣🤣 Yup! That kinda goes without saying - but I guess it’s also useful to say!

I’m not sure I understand the question. I only use Land Rover coolant, but I don’t mix it with any engine oil! Generally speaking, one doesn’t mix the two - it would not be a good pairing! I use Castrol’s Edge engine oil for the engine lubrication, and JLR coolant (premixed) for my coolant. In hot applications, you will want the 5W-30s for engine oil to provide more viscosity at higher temperatures. You definitely need coolant (even in hot countries), as the coolant also cleans the coolant channels, reduces corrosion, and increases heat capacity of the coolant. You should have a 50/50 mix of coolant with water - unless your coolant comes premixed (which will also be at 50%).

Thanks, Dave! Good to be back! These 20 hour days do seem to have encouraged some weight loss! 😂😂 Ariats! They’re actually really comfortable and excellent for driving. I wear them because they’re easy to slip on and off when I get in and out of the truck, and the leather helps protect the shin from the inevitable cow-encounters!

Are they Araits Country or Western variety?

hmmm, I’ve no clue @DavHill77! I just bought them from the store because they’re tall shank and have a non-slip sole for winter! They say style “10014053” inside!

😂😂 well, kinda! Turns out there are good reasons for such attire here! When I first landed here, I also worked out at a cattle ranch, so most of the gear is actually 20 years old, nearly! No! I’ve not heard that one! It doesn’t surprise me, though!

Thanks for the kind words, Sam! 😂😂 You noticed the weight loss! You’re right that most people put it on! I’ve lost about 50lbs I think, though it’s hard to tell exactly. I guess 20 hour days’ll do that to a fella! lol!

Thanks! It’s much needed at the moment!