Відео

The sound profile of the new KT buttons is very similar to the KS buttons - both use the same switch and almost identical sound dampening silicone inserts. I find that most of the sound I hear when using the KT and the KS buttons comes from the "finger slap" (my finger making the initial contact with the plunger) and from the "thud" that is produced by the arcade controller enclosure resonating. The buttons themselves have very little plastic-to-plastic contact and make minimal sound on their own. Outside of the controller the KT and the KS buttons are noticeably quieter than standard "plastic" buttons (see ua-cam.com/video/KY1PKzzCObo/v-deo.html), but once installed into a controller enclosure, the benefits of the sound dampening silicone are diminished. I hope this helps answer your question.

@@DinodraxChronicles aight, thanks bud

On the shortest setting, the Qanba KT button throw distance (marked with I on the plunger) is shorter than the Sanwa OBSF-30 throw distance. I took some throw distance measurements (±0.02mm accuracy) for comparison listed below. Sanwa OBSF-30 = 2.54mm ±0.02mm Qanba KT (I) = 1.48mm ±0.02mm Qanba KT (II) = 2.06mm ±0.02mm Qanba KT (III) = 2.41mm ±0.02mm Note: The Qanba KT has a bit of a "flex" at the bottom after the actuation point (sound dampening silicone) which I didn't include in the throw distance measurements. I hope this helps.

@@DinodraxChronicles thanks, now that I know this I wish they made 24mm variants😭

@@sewerPig Have you looked at the Qanba KS series buttons? The 24mm KS has a 1.92mm (±0.02mm) throw - still shorter than OBSF-30. And also, it's a bit shorter than the OBSF-24 throw which is 2.42mm (±0.02mm).

@@DinodraxChronicles wow really? I looked at the original gravity 30mm buttons and heard that they had a longer throw than OBSFs so I didn't look into them further; I just assumed that the KS are the same but just snap ins. If they are different and are a shorter throw than OBSFs I'm gonna have to check them out then, thanks for the heads up!

You're welcome!

The dark violet looks amazing. When I first got the buttons, I couldn't believe how much darker they were than what is shown on the Qanba website.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll have to check out the Seimitsu buttons. 👍

@@DinodraxChronicles Specifically the PS-14-Gs!

The 8BitDo Arcade Stick is a great controller and an awesome choice for your first stick. The default lever is not the best, but I have seen much worse "generic" levers. The buttons on the controller are "clones" of the popular Sanwa OBSF buttons, and although they are not super great, the stock buttons are decent copies that work well enough. Before you change the lever and/or the buttons, I suggest you use the controller as is for at least 3-6 months so you develop a "feel" for it - that way you will notice the difference between the stock and the upgraded components. Changing your lever and buttons immediately may sound logical (based on so many posts and videos speaking about upgrading), but many benefits and improvements of popular brand name levers and buttons will be subtle - a bit smaller dead zone on your lever with slightly less free slack when in neutral position, less hollow sounding button plastic, etc. The main benefit of upgrading to "better" components is their longevity and further options for customization and tweaking - stronger lever spring, longer shaft, larger actuator, etc. The stock button sensitivity you are experiencing is likely due to your play style - you probably rest your fingers gently on the buttons (I do that too) and inadvertently press them because there is no tactile feedback to indicate when a button is activating like on a keyboard. This will take a bit of getting used to, but there are buttons out there that have a stronger spring and a longer pre-travel for those that have a "heavy touch". If you don't like the feel of the stock buttons, you may find that the Sanwa OBSF "upgrade" may not make much difference. The sloppy diagonals you are describing could be due to a badly aligned microswitch on the joystick, but it's also possible that you haven't found the diagonal "sweet spot" on this joystick - ideally your diagonals should be activating before your lever hits against the two sides of the restrictor. Because the stock joystick has a square restrictor gate (with gently rounded corners), your diagonals will be slightly farther from the centre than the four directions and are a bit trickier to hit precisely (until you get used to it). Another benefit of upgrading your lever is the option of using a round or an octagonal restrictor - you may find those better suited to your play style. And what about trying a hitbox? They are ok, but I prefer the "stick" - to me a hitbox is just a super trimmed down keyboard with ergonomically positioned switches designed to minimise the effort and reduce the motion. I like to put the entire weight of my body against the lever from time to time, and you don't get to do that with a hitbox. I hope some of this helps answer your questions. Have fun with the 8BitDo stick - it's a great controller.

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you for the detailed reply!! Ive been practicing with the stick for months now (tho not daily), and i still struggle with the diagonals. Switching the ball top into a bat top though has helped tremendously in terms of doing moves such as electrics. I had to "dig deep" into the gates to activate both sides of the restrictor. I tried doing small movements to not make gate riding a habit, and trying to find the sweet spot but i notice that most of the time, it will detect the up/down part of the restrictor before it detects the left/right/. This creates problem for when i want to do ewgf with kazuya in tekken where he needs to do down forward immediately after forward. I have to slightly hit the down input before going forward otherwise i risk only hitting either of the two gates if i try to do the D/F input quickly, which in turn reduces my speed. Going deep into the gate is the only way for now i can prevent this, tho it still wont be as accurate. I tried some claw machines at the arcade and funnily enough i felt that the levers there are more comfortable to use and more tight, not quite "loose" like the one on my 8bitdo. As for buttons, im assuming its not as different as the original Sanwa OBSF? What about Qanba gravity? Ive heard plenty of good things about it. Sorry for the lengthy reply btw 😂 Edit : just realized your channel has comparison videos on the buttons, ill check that out

I have seen similar E-clip problems where the clip is a fraction of a millimetre too large, but there's an easy fix for that. Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/v2sgUTCOxqg/v-deo.html where I demonstrate how I deal with loose E-clips (another quick-release shaft mod). I hope this helps you get your E-clip to fit better. Good luck with your mod.

@@DinodraxChronicles This helped! Thank you!

I got all my removable shafts from online shops in the UK and Australia. This one I got from CQB Arcade in Queensland, but many other online shops across the globe carry them. If you are looking for a shaft for your Qanba Gravity (JOV8S or JCV8) ensure you get the one that is made for the Sanwa JLF joysticks - that one fits the Qanba perfectly. Good luck with your mod.

You're absolutely correct - that's the classic Nintendo colour scheme. For this controller I decided to use the Xbox colour scheme, but I changed the button labels (A and B) to match the Nintendo layout when I installed the Qanba KS buttons - see the feature image on this video ua-cam.com/video/5uC79ykCMWg/v-deo.html I may go with the Nintendo classic colour scheme when I install the new Qanba KT buttons. 🤔 Thanks for the feedback - I appreciate it.

That's exactly what I experienced. There's nothing wrong with the Sanwa OBSF buttons, but the Qanba KS (and the new KT) buttons are much sturdier and can withstand many installations/uninstallations without having their snap-in retention clips bent out of shape or broken off.

@@DinodraxChronicles will you be doing a KT feature soon? 😊Nice to see Qanba continually improving their button offerings while still being fairly priced and readily available.

Yes, a Qanba KT feature is in the works - the buttons arrived last week (all colours), but I need to spend a bit more time with them before I post a video.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback.

I've heard the same from few people. This lever has a very small dead zone, almost no free space when in neutral, and a short throw and actuation distance. This means that when engaging diagonals, a small deviation in the angle (not exactly at 45 degrees) can result in a missed input (especially on the JCV8 variant). Also, because the switches in this joystick are "springy" and help the lever return to neutral quicker, it is possible to accidentally trigger the opposite switch as the lever bounces back. I found that the JOV8S variant has cleaner diagonal inputs compared to the JCV8 version, and when I am using the heavy spring that comes with the JOV8S kit, I don't get any bounce back actuations. It took me a while to get used to the Qanba Gravity joystick, but I think I prefer it for shmups over all others.

I know exactly what you mean - I had a similar reaction back in the day when the "soft" leaf switches started to be phased out in favour of the more modern clicky microswitches. The Qanba Gravity Silent joysticks remind me of that leaf switch feel - all you hear is the thud of the shaft/actuator slamming against the collar/restrictor.

Qanba KS buttons do feel great - even their plastic is less plasticky than other plastic buttons. 😁 I was considering the metallic buttons, but instead I decided to go with the clear variant because of the custom art inserts.

So far, I only used the stock actuator with my Qanba Gravity Silent Joystick (JOV8S variant). Out of the box, the Qanba joystick already has a much shorter actuation distance and throw than the Sanwa JLF. Although all actuators made for the Sanwa JLF would fit onto the Qanba JOV8S shaft (their shafts are virtually identical), installing a slightly larger actuator that attempts to further reduce the actuation distance into the JOV8S could trigger bounce-back inputs in the opposite direction as the joystick shaft returns to neutral. The stock actuator on the JOV8S already sits right against the switches (optimized for short actuation and small dead zone), and using a larger one would keep all switches partially pressed at all times - because the mechanical shaft switches (not microswitches as on the JLF) used in the Qanba JOV8S have linear springs which help the joystick shaft return to centre, the extra force from the switch on the opposite side could translate into accidental bounce-back inputs. But just because I didn't try using a larger actuator on the JOV8S, it doesn't mean that all aftermarket JLF actuators won't work. If I get a chance, I may try "squeezing" in a JLF P-R (red) to see what happens.

Not weird at all - it's a good question. There are a few options for PS1 and PS2 adapters for your arcade stick. 8BitDo makes one for their controllers called "Retro Receiver for PS" - this one wireless and best option if you have the 8BitDo Arcade Stick. Check it out at www.8bitdo.com/retro-receiver-for-ps/ Brook makes an adapter called "Wingman PS2" - this one is wired and wireless. You can check it out at store.brookgaming.com/products/wingman-ps2. I hope this helps. Good luck!

These buttons feel smoother than regular buttons because they have almost no plastic-to-plastic contact - it's all soft silicone. Plus, the KS buttons are rated for 70 million cycles, and judging by the more robust plastic used in their construction, I'd say they would last a long time. The only thing that took some time to get used to is the "soft landing" of the plunger - there is no loud "clap" or a hard stop when the button is pressed quickly, and there is a cushioning effect and a tiny bit of flex past the actuation point when the button is bottomed out.

My fighting skills are pathetic. That's why I used the classic arcade games for the demonstration - I'm more comfortable with platformers and shmups than executing shoryukens and throwing hadoukens.😁 I will try to include a fighting game (KOF or similar) next time I do a comparison. Thanks for the feedback - I appreciate it.

I only played T7 and a tiny bit of T8 on my 8BitDo Arcade Stick - the controller felt good. If this is your 1st arcade stick, I think it's a great start. There are a couple of notes I give to people considering this controller. 1. The controller is 300mm wide and 200mm deep - I have large hands and it feels great to me, but some think it's a bit small. 2. The controller works great on PC and Switch (wired and wireless), but if you need a controller for PS or XBOX, you should consider other brands specifically designed for those consoles. I hope this helps. 🕹️🟣🟣🟣

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you! Im planning to buy 8bitdo or the mayflash f300 and then mod it, is the 8bitdo mod friendly?

8BitDo Arcade Stick is very mod friendly - you can install the standard Sanwa JLF or JLX lever, the Qanba Gravity Silent lever, and Sanwa OBSF buttons easily. Whichever controller you decide to get, play on it for at least 3-6 months before upgrading the components. The stock parts aren't terrible and you will be able to "feel" the difference only if you spend some time breaking in the stock lever and buttons.

@@DinodraxChronicles okay, thanks again for the advice and information!

That's great! Yes, I installed the JOV8S into my 8BitDo Arcade Stick. Good luck with your mod.

Had a successful install! Thanks to your other video, I avoided the mismatch issue from the stock pin wiring. Fortunately, the qanba lever and the 8bitdo board I have, had labels for which command the wiring is for. My approach was reusing the 8 pin wiring connector of the 8bitdo, as an alternative to trimming the stock qanba 5 pin wiring connector. Fit like a charm.

@@mgu-ph I'm glad the videos helped. Reusing the 8-pin connector from the 8BitDo Arcade Stick takes a bit more effort, but it's a great way to do it - that ensures you are using the connectors exactly how they were designed to be connected. 👍

I hope you had a great journey!

You're welcome. I am glad the video helped you.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll grab some Qanba KS buttons next!

If you never used anything else other than Sanwa (JLF or JLX), you may want to try the Qanba JOV8S, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. The JOV8S has a significantly shorter throw than the JLF and the actuation distance is also reduced - some people "love" that about the Qanba joystick. There are two variants of the Qanba Gravity Silent joysticks - the JOV8S uses Omron box switches, while the JCV8 uses the Cherry MX switches. Many prefer the JOV8S variant for fighting games because the switch stems are larger which makes inputs herded to miss. I like both the JOV8S and the JCV8 because they're silent and their actuation distance is short (see the side-by-side comparison with the Sanwa JLF ua-cam.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/v-deo.html). If you can get a Qanba Gravity Silent joystick on sale (they sell for less than the MSRP on AliExpress), the kit delivers a lot of value with 3 different springs, 3 restrictors, and a very nice ball top. 🕹🟣🟣🟣

It's compatible. The kit comes with everything you need to pop it into your Drone 2.

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you. one more thing, can you tell me what would you prefer? sanwa jlf or this qanba gravity?

@@UnknownGamer_metal Both are good joysticks, but I prefer the Qanba Gravity Silent (JOV8S) because it's quiet, has a shorter throw and actuation distance, and the kit comes with a lot of accessories so I can tinker with different springs and restrictors. I did a sound comparison between the Qanba Gravity Silent and the Sanwa JLF - have a look at ua-cam.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/v-deo.html

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you sir

The restrictor shape is OK - I use it and it feels good. I just wish Qanba didn't market it as "circle" when it clearly is not perfectly circular - they even show a perfect circle overlaid on top of it on their website. Until Qanba marketing team come up with a more appropriate name, I will continue to call this restrictor shape the "Cu-Qanba".

That's a great question. I'm not sure. I will have to take apart the JOV8S and see what fits. I have a few different quick release shafts I'll try. I'll get back to you on this soon.

@@DinodraxChronicles thank you alot ! i'll be waiting from you :)

Good news - all quick release shafts that are compatible with the Sanwa JLF will fit. I took apart both the Qanba JOV8S and the JCV8 and both shafts are virtually identical to the standard JLF shaft. I'll be installing the JLF version of the PhreakMods Link EX-Groove Quick Release shaft into my Qanba JOV8S.

@@DinodraxChronicles woohoo nice !! i do have PhreakMod QR that i got it from focusattack . I wonders if i can put capsule top on this im sure it fits too ;)

@@samiRetro777 A capsule top should fit beautifully.

🎉

Thanks for the feedback - although music isn't the primary focus of the video, it's very important to have the right music to set the correct mod mood. 🎵🎶

I don't notice any accidental actuations on bounce-back. I am using the light (default 1x) spring that came with the kit, and my controller is slanted slightly toward me - with the joystick angled a bit, gravity may be helping prevent the bounce-back. The switches in this joystick have a stronger spring than the standard microswitches commonly found in Sanwa JLF, and with the shorter actuation distance, the JOV8S may be more prone to bounce-back actuations. If your controller is slanted away (on your lap) try giving it a bit of a tilt toward you or try one of the stronger shaft springs that come in the kit - the 2x or even the 1.5x spring may give it a bit more stiffness and prevent the accidental bounce-back actuations.

The long screwdriver is a 4" Phillips size 2 (PH2) and the short screwdriver is also Phillips size 2 (PH2) but only 1-5/8". Before you get a specific screwdriver, double check that your controller has Phillips screws - some versions of 8BitDo Arcade Sticks use torx screws on the case. Good luck with your mod.

😁

Nakręciłem kolejny film, aby pokazać różnicę w dźwięku - obejrzyj ua-cam.com/video/ZUwaSFDjSN0/v-deo.html

The cable I ended up using in my video is a "Generic control board 5-pin wiring harness" from CQB Arcade - but you can get it from ANY online shop that sells arcade controller parts. If you want to get it from Amazon, just look up "5Pin XH2.5mm Pitch Cable Plug Female to Female Adapter". This is the EASIEST option for the 8BitDo Arcade Stick if you don't want to rewire the cable that comes with the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick. I still recommend you cut off one of the retention clips on the "generic" cable, so your 5-pin connector fits nicely into the 8-pin connector on the circuit board - there is a segment in the video where I show how that's done (be extra careful when doing that). If you find something online but are not sure if it is the correct thing, let me know and I can have a look. Good luck with your upgrade.

@@DinodraxChronicles ah I see, so technically I can use the wire that it comes with but I have to remove the clips, just as how you showed in the video.

Technically yes - you can use the cable that comes with the joystick, but you will also have to REWIRE the pins on one side of that cable because out of the box it is not wired to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick (it's backwards). Getting a new "generic" cable allows you to plug it in either way without having to rewire - the "generic" cable has no "hook" on the joystick side, and you can invert it (plug it in backwards) to suit the 8BitDo Arcade Stick pin order. Either way, when you are plugging in a 5-pin cable connector into an 8-pin connector on the circuit board, you should remove one of the retention clips (just like I did in my video), so you don't force apart the plug on the 8BitDo Arcade Stick. I hope this helps you plan for the upgrade.

@@DinodraxChronicles Hey its me again. something i didnt realize was that I have the xbox version not the one you have. I was wondering if the same method applies with the female to female connector? I hope you could do a tutorial with the same stick and 8bitdo :/

Unfortunately, the XBOX variant of the 8BitDo Arcade Stick uses a different 8 pin connector on the circuit board and is not compatible with the Qanba cable or the "universal" cable I showed in my video. I currently don't have the XBOX variant, so I can't make a video tutorial. Sorry. If I were in your situation, I would probably cut off the cables from the stock joystick, cut off the circuit board plug from the Qanba cable, and then splice the two cables together to make a compatible wiring harness - this is the easiest and quickest option. All you have to do is expose a bit of wire on either end, twist them together, and put a bit of electrical tape over each splice. You need to match each direction - all directions are labelled on the joystick and on the circuit board next to the plug. And because there are 4 ground connections on the circuit board, and only one ground on the Qanba joystick (labelled GND), you only have to splice one ground wire (doesn't matter which) - the remaining 3 ground wires can be cut off or taped shut with a bit of electrical tape (to prevent them making contact with anything inside the case). I hope this quick write up helps you. Good luck.

You're absolutely correct - the noise produced by an arcade stick when playing fighting games is on an entirely different level. The primary reason I would use a silent lever for fighting games is to reduce the number of audible clues your opponent sitting next to you may be listening for - each stick motion produces a distinct microswitch "sound signature" which may be picked up, recognised, and then countered/blocked/avoided by your opponent.

Holy bent bananas Batman - you are correct. That thing is not a perfect circle. Eagle eyes! I measured and inspected the circular gate that came with the JOV8S kit, and it seems it has a bit of a deviation in a couple of spots. It's visible but I am not sure if I would be able to feel it once installed - I'll have to test it out. Usually, the actuator shouldn't "ride" the restrictor gate, but that doesn't mean Qanba should be making their circular gates egg-shaped. I'll get in touch with Qanba and see what they say about this. I do like the lever. It has a short throw, short actuation distance, small dead zone, and it is very quiet - there is no constant clickclickclickclick when I play shmups. Plus, it comes with a nice ball top.

@@DinodraxChronicles I am using a Otto V5 with a circular restrictor and I like to ride the gate when I'm gon to DP from crouch position (↙️ - ⬇️↘️➡️↘️⬇️↘️) having an eggshaped restrictor gate will affect me.

I'll post an update when I hear back from Qanba. I'll try using the circular gate soon to see how the actuator makes contact with it.

@@DinodraxChronicles I've seen many videos of this lever and all look the same the gate is not circular I even found out a review on Ali Express of a guy complaining about the same issue he even aploaded a picture of the restrictor gate and it is not round 360

I got a response from Qanba and I did some measuring and investigation about the Gravity V8 "circle" restrictor. Have a look at the video I just posted - it's a quick summary. ua-cam.com/video/8Y4sbh5uSW8/v-deo.html

Nice. I have been meaning to try the LS-56-01 mainly because of the "stiff" spring and the short throw/actuation distance. Thanks for the reminder - I will have to pick up one soon.

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the feedback - I really appreciate it. This type of input helps me improve over time.

Great suggestion! I'm using the lowest tension spring that came in the kit and it feels a bit tighter than the default spring that ships with the Sanwa JLF. The kit also comes with a "1.5 times elasticity" and a "2 times elasticity" springs - I haven't tried those yet.

@@DinodraxChronicles I've always been a fan of very stiff or high tension sticks. I'm currently using a Seimitsu LS-55 and love how it springs back into place! You definitely don't get that from a Sanwa JLF.

The Qanba Gravity Silent joystick with Omron grey switches (JOV8 and JOV8S models) feels different than Sanwa JLF or other similar joysticks - it has a shorter throw and actuation distance plus it's super quiet. Out of the box it also feels a bit stiffer than Sanwa JLF. I think it would be a good upgrade, but it may take you a bit to get used to it. If you can get it from AliEx for a discount, I think it's worth trying it. Have a look at the video I just posted that compares the Sanwa JLF and the Qanba Gravity Silent joystick - it touches on a few things I mentioned above. Good luck with the upgrade.

I think it's worth it - especially if you can get it from AliEx for a discount. In my video I showed the JOV8S variant that has Omron grey switches, but there is also the JCV8 model that uses Cherry MX Speed Silver switches. Good luck with your mod.

You're welcome! Good luck with your mod.

@@DinodraxChronicles Thx!