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I put a set of allens the kind that you unfold to use except these you couldn't tell what they were they were so rusted not to mention you couldn't unfold them in a container of vinegar and in a few days the bottom of the container was full of rust and the allens looked brand new.

My compressor seems to have some blow by of sorts. Oil from the motor is finding its way into the tank (i assume, air smells like the oil) and has rusty water come out when drained. Probably drain a cup or so out per month.

Why they don't put liners like 55 gal drums⁉️

i do not under stand as i printed out the hot end spacer it is a smaller diameter than the original cr10s pro hot end meaning the spacer is not a snug fit it states that the spacer is od of m7 how ever the hole is wider please can someone help me here i turn my hot end upside down and the spacer just falls out hmmmmm

Where is the follow-up video?

Old or used tanks should be hydro tested! It can be done with a power sprayer. There are videos on UA-cam.

Apparently you don't realize that a ton is 2000 lb!!! That's a huge exaggeration!!! You could say a huge amount or a lot, etc!

Instead of the normal petcock on the bottom of the tank. I put a 90 degree 1/4" pipe fitting in the bottom, with a short piece of 1/4" black pipe, 1/4" gas ball valve on it, and another 90 degree fitting to direct the output towards the ground. Have it sticking out just far enough to be able to open it without crawling on the ground like I did for the standard petcock. Makes it a lot more convenient at the end of the day to drain the tank.

I appreciate this video, I’ve got the parts on order. I was curious what brand of soild bed mounts you used? Thanks again

The compressor you showed that blew up, I legit have the same exact one. Its an old Sear/Craftsman. works great! But I've been worried about this happening to me so searched for videos on doing tank liners and your video came up. I should really put a bust disc on my tank.....

Did you ever check if the rust came back?

The MAIN problem is that drains are a coupling put THROUGH a hole and welded. They SHOULD have a Half-coupling welded OVER the drain hole so the entire bottom can be drained. No part of coupling protruding inside to block complete draining.

Hi did you ever have a look to see if it stopped the rust happening? I did look for a part 2 but could not see one yet

If the board was milled flat with the PrintNC, this is normal. But put a DIN 874/0 or /00 ruler on it as a reference surface.

I dunno... these are pressure vessels, which means they are literally a bomb. Depending on the quality of the steel they used, some rust could cause an explosion when pressurized, while others can withstand 1/4 of the metal corroded away to rust and still be safe. Check the date on the tank placard which is welded onto it, after that date the tank needs to be hydro tested to ensure it is safe, and before if you don't know how well the tank was maintained. Just remember, better safe than sorry or - dead.

looking for the Part 2 , have you made it yet?

Oooh, what probe is this?

Feed mill Molasses mixed 4parts water to 1part Molasses should do the trick

Did you ever move your runout sensor to the top rail or above the ddx? If so, what cable extension did yiu use?

Looking forward to part 2! Im gonna follow some of these steps to recondition my old compressor, but im going to hydrotest mine first to make sure the pressures still good

You are an asshole for not putting a disclaimer

How did you apply the Rust-Block? Did you reach your hand up inside?? You leave out some details.

What happened to part 2?

Anyway we could get a link or whatever they’re called pdf so we could download that Manual you made/printed?? I’d sure like to have a copy myself but I’m not very good on computer stuff lol

Great build, setup looks awesome. Would love a video of electronic setup and the software portion as well. I habe experience with the manufacturing part, but hesitant about the rest

The final step before putting a used air tank to use is a hydrostatic test, particularly for the cheap imported tanks like this one.

Unless you perform a hydro test on it, rust free means nothing.

Hey nice setup Hank! Question what “work area” size is your printnc? I’m assuming that is the actual cutting area? Also how much room do you have outside the “work area”? 2-3 inches on each side would you say? Im wanting to order one soon but I can’t figure out what I need to order exactly as far as size. I need to be able to cut 48” in both directions.

You really just need a radiator before the tank after the compressor.. that and an oil/water separator catch thats lower than the lowest point on the radiator then piped back up to the tank inlet.. that will 100% keep the tank dry.. you can buy a little power steering cooker radiator with 5/8 tubing and 5 turns with fins and all for 60$.. a desiccant filter before the tank isnt right. Youre gonna change out the desiccant every rip. Even though you can microwave the stuff and reuse it still it will get saturated too quick.. People wonder why they dont coat the tanks and just like old gas tanks, when the coating gets compromised it will take out the whole thing plus when just a spot of the coating gets a hole, moisture will sit inside that pocket and rust quicker.. that and if it flakes itll clog up the whole shit.. probably will shoot out a chunk right when your painting.. lol. Ive heard of people using redguard but ive used that stuff on bathrooms and it can peel off.. rarely but if the surface isnt prepped enough than its more likely to. Best bet is to use a gel spray lube.. that stuff stays.. or some of the automotive stuff in the red top can.. forget what the name is but eric o uses it on every underbody..

“Arizona in the summer”. Brother you doing great

What about using vinegar?

now check it after you use it and it will look like before lol

@ 3:06 ... 2 points!

Why don't manufacturers just paint the inside of the tanks? Epoxy coat... anything

Old air compressors are like ticking time bombs - you never know when they will go off. It's not a good idea to have a bomb near you... that's why you never repair an airframe older than 10 years. safety first

Sounds like this is the first time you've used Evapo-Rust. For light surface rust 3 days is the minimum IMO. I use it frequently in a paint mixing pail that has an airtight lid and have never seen any pressure buildup. The slight pressure in your tank was more likely from an increase in temperature after sealing it up.

a ultrasonic thickness meter (as used for checking engine block web thicknesses between bores) would work extremely well for measuring thickness at different places on these air compressor tanks

Man, just cool the air in a steel or copper pipe array with a drain before it ever goes into the air dryer and compressor. The hot air wonr release moisture but as it cools the moisture will condensate and can be drained off.

I use vinegar for everything rust cheap, and the longer you soak apart the better it cleans. It also gets rid of oils and other things love vinegar for taking care of rust smells like a jar of pickles.

I just picked up a nice 20 gallon compressor at an estate sale for a great price. There was a small leak in one of the fittings that needed to be fixed but the compressor and the motor seem like they are in great condition. I decided to dismantle some things anyway so I could clean it up and inspect the inside of the tank. That's where things went down hill. I emptied probably 5 gallons of water from the tank. The drain was plugged up with sludge and I don't think it has been properly purged for some time. I've spent the last two days doing some cleaning and degreasing of the inside of the tank. At first it looked borderline at best, but now I think it's salvageable. This is a quality tank made of thick metal and the rust seems to be on the surface only. After watching this video is decided that it's worth the cost of 5 gallons of evaporust (almost what I paid for the entire compressor) to bring this back to life and make sure it stays safe. I must say that the explosion clips certainly raised my standard of what was acceptable, that's some scary stuff. This will be in my garage, directly under my daughter's room, and I don't want it to launch itself into the second floor. Thank you for the visuals, it was more effective than just telling us to be careful.

New subscriber! The two scenes of the guys with their compressor explosions scared the hell out of me. Thanks for including that. I have a very old Craftsman 25 gallon horizontal compressor. I used it to frame, then for adding the plywood to the sides and roof of my house way back in the late 90s. We moved into new house 1999. Also used to paint the bullnose around doors and windows. 27 years old. Has only been used sporadically since the late 90’s. I think I drained after every use way back then. Used a few times with an impact gun on very stubborn caliper bolts and replacing CV axles on my 2001 Silverado and sons 2000 Suburban within the last 5 years. If I ever need it again I plan to only plug into 50 ft. 12 gauge extension cord and put it as far as I can from any or everything. Still have 2- 50ft. 3/8” air hoses I used from way back then with the nail gun. Seriously think about making it scrap metal after drilling a hole in it so no one else can get hurt with it. Especially, since I saw part of the exploding compressor end up in a swimming pool several feet from those guys. Wow! Thanks for posting your video.

What dial indicator are you using here?

Great video but it needs a link to the direct Link in the description to tinymachines download page to get the firmware. You could also retitled this to "step by step how to rapidly install DDX 3 ....

how did you clean the inside of the tank to remove the evapo-rust? are you using the tank/compressor for painting vehicles?

My next build! It’s the only DIY cnc router that’s worth putting your time and effort into. Great work!

Could you install a back up pressure valve to release pressure for extra safety?

Is it silly to ask why the manufacturer doesnt coat or line the tank.? Aluminim cans have a thin plastic liner why cant these. ?

white vinegar works good too.

Nice video, but..for what it's worth...you talk a little too fast. Hard to make you out at times. Other than that, good idea on the Evapo-Rust treatment. I swear by the stuff. I use it all the time, and it's not cheap up here in Canada....$100 Canadian for the 5 gallon pail!

6:08 How long to leave purge valve open after purging it of water/moisture to dry it out after use? I've just got a small 50 litre portable silenced 2.75hp not used very often so don't want critters crawling inside., cheers.