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@@CumbriaTRGroup excellent. Good luck with yours. I am very slow so you shall soon be ahead of me.

@@BenotzJoe haha Passenger Side 😜. Youve to 75ish more to go. Might fet a little dull for you. Take care mike

@@bobbeiler8453 Cool Bob I always wondered why you had a connection to your local muscle car club. Unlikely to be any TR3 that fits right in 😝

@@redfoxclassics Howdy Red. No that is a replacement VIN/state registration sticker since there was no title available at sale and the VIN plate had been physically removed. There is an identical one on the fire wall. I hope they survive the restoration as it will cause another round of problems with the state registration people. Car will need to be reinspected for road worthiness when restoration is complete and they will be looking for them. You are right about drip rails. They take some time but end result is satisfying.

@@mikeg5877 Ah right. Different version of the awkwardness we have to deal with over here then! I unwittingly got lucky with the GT6, it last had reg docs issued in 1982, which was the first year of computerisation. If it had been off the road a year longer I might've had to go through a similar process to you.

@@toxaq thanks. Much obliged. Once i cut them off we will be set for swiss cheese for a while 😝

Hi Craig... thanks for the comments... turns out I will be out of country for work from Jan-May in 2025 so progress will grind to a halt. If you are in a hurry, you can go back to episode 35ish or so to see how I tackled the passenger side. I'll do a few things differently this time, but you can at least see some progress. All the best, Mike

@@mikeg5877 safe travels. I’ll check out the previous video. I’m one car away from starting on my TR3.

@@cheftush thanks Tush. Hope you are still snow free. The folks got a foot last weekend! Take Care. Mike

@ still snow free! Yes, I heard the west got a bit of a winter blast. So far, we haven’t had days over over nights below 0C. That all changes Monday as both the daytime and overnight lows are in the -4C range…winter is here!

@ looking forward to the snow blower restoration video series. What color you planning for that one?

@ lol. It’s done already. Didn’t bother filming it. I should paint flames on it or something though 😉

@@redfoxclassics hey Red. Sometimes… It is easier in the long run to completely remake the panel from scratch than try to fix it piece by piece. And sometimes the opposite 🥴

Hi Charlie, what forum(s) do you visit most frequently? I lurk at a few of them...

thanks tush... much obliged.

Thanks John, I am a little handy when it comes to mechanical work, but that is not where my strengths are. I really do prefer the metal shaping. That doesn't extend to painting though, which is a skill I will leave to a friend. I will shoot the primer for protection, but I will let Chris work his magic with the colored stuff.

Thanks John, Being able to make reliable and reproducible spots is reassuring. Onwards!

Hi Craig... hoping to put it to work in a couple days, drip channel replacement almost complete.

thanks Craig... my old voice keeps getting quieter... I'll try to step it up a bit.

@@redfoxclassics yeah i was pleased with the end result. It is a rather clever way to park. Hope it works when installed. That will happen some day or so i tell myself.

@@bobbeiler8453 piece of cake compared to dynamo and starter.

@@cheftush thanks Tush. Glad to have it sorted.

Hi Frank, hope you are well. Those big Phillips head screws are extremely tight. I needed a few days of penetrating fluid, then a BFH on a manual impact driver. The yoke is extremely tough so no worries about hurting it, but dang... it needs some serious wacks. You can use those in reverse to tighten with a heavy hammer blow and thats what it took to bed them well enough to fit the commutator without issue. No subtleties with these. Yes, they are right hand thread... nothing funky about them other than they are tight...

Oh, I would add that the key is to make sure that the bit is the largest size so it stays engaged into the bolt and not back out and start stripping. The heavy hammer blows does keep it nicely engaged in the screw head so I never had any issues.

@@mikeg5877 Excellent, Thank you for all the information you are documenting. Frank

Wow that is such a nice job. How did you source all the parts? I have several as well I guess I need to figure out how to check them to see if they are good!

@@pucman1 Hi JP... most of the bits you need are easily sourced. The bearing came from Amazon, just type in the bearing code ($18 for 2). The brushes came from Moss and while I got a friend to supply the bushing, that is also available from Moss. The cotton wrapping came from eBay. Search for Egyptian Field Coil Wrapping. I bought the non-egyptian 3 pack of cloth for $15ish plus shipping. Testing whether they work even a little is easy... jump the two field coil leads, put battery negative there, then positive on one of the ears (positive earth) and it should spin like a motor. If it rattles and turns erratically then take apart and replace bearings and bushings. The link in the description gives you all you need to do it step by step.

@@pcalley1 hi. Feel free to email me at mikegagne5@gmail.com

Oct 1 what year? It made me chuckle as i would have enjoyed knowing that. Ill have to look for some hylomar we do have it here.

@@mikeg5877 same, I do like finding the date codes for the little clues on the car’s (or at least part’s) history. Although maybe it is Oct 1 AD, a reeeeeallly early TR gearbox :D

yeah it was cool, I now have a much better understanding of what goes on under the hood, err. bonnet, err tunnel.

haha, even I have trouble staying up that late ;-)

Thanks 👍

Hi Roy... the current plan is to mount the engine to a spare chassis and test run it there. This will happen in the Fall. Hopefully the OD gear box will be complete by then and the whole drive train can be tested.

@@mikeg5877 .....thanks for the reply, yes a good idea to test before committing to the frame. I take it from your accent you are Canadian, a couple of guys I follow on YT post regularly, Elin 'Rusty beauties' and chef tush 'tush mahal' both are triumph enthusiasts, and from your neck of the woods, though obviously Canada is just slightly bigger than the UK so you may not be that close.

@@Welder-y5x haha thanks Roy. I UA-cam know them both though I am originally from the west… which is 3200 km distant. 🤣

ahh, good catch Tush, much obliged

@@cheftush dont let me spoil it for you then 😎

Thanks Bruce, me too ;-)

@@redfoxclassics haha yeah its been a journey have learned a ton

haha thanks Roy... and ode to my OCD symptoms.

Thanks John, it is working out very nicely on the road.

I certainly have. The down under maestro.

Thanks Matthew, the FSP can lead you astray while paper simply cannot. Of course, what do I know. ;-)

Thanks for suggestion... talked to my machine shop and he said if the shims are readily available it wouldn't hurt to do it, but he also didn't think that was enough to make much of a difference... as long as the valve lash was properly set he thought it would be fine.

Thank Tush. Minor setback all things considered m

thanks so much John, I hope you are well and driving season is in full swing wherever you are!

@@mikeg5877 WI weather got decent this week but I’m still working on the TR3. 🙄

Thanks Frank, I ended up machining a new post to fit the bushing and all worked out nicely as well. Hope you are well and in full driving season.

Thanks… as slow as watching steel rust…. Wait… not that fast

when I purchased the car (pre-covid) it came with 25 boxes of mostly trashed bits. 3 new style, 1 old style bullet, and at least 5 generators. Only the starters have been a surprise. Most of the rest have been junk parts. The car did not come with engine or transmission...

@@mikeg5877 ah right. I thought I remembered you dating the engine as 1957 and assumed the starter came with that.

Precisely John, it sprays just like a paint and with gently buffing, it forms a slightly shiny cast grey. If you mar the surface it is trivial to correct with another quick spray and buff. Of course, how it holds up to rusting in the longer term is the key question. Farmers use it to lubricate grain chutes and such... All the best to you!

I started with ultrasonic cleaner and some dish soap, then moved to a Dremel polishing kit... essentially cotton bats that I ran with polishing paste. GL with GT6 project!