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thumperthoughts
United States
Приєднався 27 жов 2013
Random Vibrations and Clatterings
I'm a hobbyist and maker with interests in machining, electronics, 3D printing and Ariel Red Hunter motorcycles.
Sometimes I try and video what I do.
Sometimes I try and sell what I make.
Tindie Store: www.tindie.com/stores/arielnh56/
Etsy Store: www.etsy.com/shop/RedHunterStore
Blog: redhunter.com
Twitter: RedhunterStore
Hackaday: hackaday.io/arielnh56
I'm a hobbyist and maker with interests in machining, electronics, 3D printing and Ariel Red Hunter motorcycles.
Sometimes I try and video what I do.
Sometimes I try and sell what I make.
Tindie Store: www.tindie.com/stores/arielnh56/
Etsy Store: www.etsy.com/shop/RedHunterStore
Blog: redhunter.com
Twitter: RedhunterStore
Hackaday: hackaday.io/arielnh56
Organization for GoPro Creator Case and Hard Shell Case
This range of organizer trays for the GoPro Creator and GoPro Hard Shell cases are available in my Etsy Store. redhunterstore.etsy.com
This is a modular system and simple to expand so if you do not see an option to meet your needs please drop me a note at the Red Hunter Store and I'll see what I can do.
Case Insert System for GoPro Creator redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1612142346
Case Insert for GoPro redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1415438287
Case Insert for GoPro with Volta redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1415438287
Case Insert for GoPro Media Mod redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1660721214
Case Insert for Two GoPros redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1509293213
This is a modular system and simple to expand so if you do not see an option to meet your needs please drop me a note at the Red Hunter Store and I'll see what I can do.
Case Insert System for GoPro Creator redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1612142346
Case Insert for GoPro redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1415438287
Case Insert for GoPro with Volta redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1415438287
Case Insert for GoPro Media Mod redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1660721214
Case Insert for Two GoPros redhunterstore.etsy.com/listing/1509293213
Переглядів: 130
Відео
Ariel Ansty Link Suspension Rebuild - Part 4 - Link Plate Bushes and Bolts
Переглядів 2579 місяців тому
Rebuild Diary for my Ariel Ansty Link Suspension. Replacing the 4 worn Link Plate Bolt Bushes 4998-39. Replacement bushes are McMaster-Carr Oil-Embedded 841 Bronze Sleeve Bearing For 3/8" Shaft Diameter And 1/2" Housing Id, 1-1/4" Long 6391K179 Making 4 new Link Plate Bolts 4996-51 adapted for 1/4" BSF grease nipples.
Ariel Ansty Link Suspension Rebuild - Part 3 - Stirrup Bolt Bushes
Переглядів 1449 місяців тому
Rebuild Diary for my Ariel Ansty Link Suspension. Replacing the worn Stirrup Bolt Bushes 4986-39 on one side. Replacement bushes are McMaster-Carr Oil-Embedded 841 Bronze Sleeve Bearing For 5/8" Shaft Diameter And 3/4" Housing Id, 1" Long 6391K243 - shortened to 15/16"
Ariel Ansty Link Suspension Rebuild - Part 2 - Sliding Member Bushes and Tubes
Переглядів 60710 місяців тому
Rebuild Diary for my Ariel Ansty Link Suspension. Making replacement 4960-39 Guide Tubes and 4966-39 Sliding Member Bushes, and boring the bushes in place to ensure concentricity. Mistakes are made!
Fixing a leaky vintage Enots Concentric motorcycle fuel tap
Переглядів 457Рік тому
This valve came out of the same barn as my bike did in 1987 so it went on the bike after I found a tank for it, but as far as I know it is not original to the bike, and is probably older. These were patented in the 1920s and seemed to have been available from the mid 1930s until some time after the war. The valve has cork seals which dry out and shrink if not used, resulting in flammable drippy...
Ariel Ansty Link Suspension Rebuild - Part 1 - The Taking Aparting
Переглядів 234Рік тому
Rebuild Diary for my Ariel Ansty Link Suspension. The wags will comment that I have the earlier type with the tube and its the later type with the solid shaft, and the wags would be right. No machining in this one, and there is a lot of background sound and wind noise. Sorry about that.
What's this all about anyway? Channel update and next thing: Ariel Anstey link suspension renovation
Переглядів 175Рік тому
The steam engine project was as much about me figuring out how to UA-cam as much as it was about steam engines. I really got into machining to do motorcycle stuff - Ariel motorcycle stuff, but I'm easily distracted. Ongoing videos will be about whatever. It won't be all machining all the time. The "in joke" at the end refers to Ariel's best ever showing in the TT - the fictitious win by George ...
20 Final Little Losable Bits - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 569Рік тому
In this episode, I machine the final small components and finish u some parts from earlier. I've been given an old PMR #5 "Coke Bottle" Steam Engine Kit. It came with many parts missing, and we know it's old because they don't make them with the main castings in bronze anymore. This series documents this rank amateur hobbyist's attempt to build this thing. The kit is available at www.pmmodeleng...
19 Machining the Valve Slide & Cover - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 593Рік тому
In this episode, I machine the valve slide, valve slide caps and valve chest cover. This went mostly OK even with a dodgy choice of clamping shim. I also meet my firt cast iron inclusions and sparks fly! I've been given an old PMR #5 "Coke Bottle" Steam Engine Kit. It came with many parts missing, and we know it's old because they don't make them with the main castings in bronze anymore. This s...
18 Machining the Piston and Valve - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 634Рік тому
In this episode, I machine the piston and valve. Due to an oops in the camera turning on, no bloopers were captured in the making of this video. I did do a stupid and break an end mill at one point where I also forgot to start the camera. I've been given an old PMR #5 "Coke Bottle" Steam Engine Kit. It came with many parts missing, and we know it's old because they don't make them with the main...
17 Machining the Eccentric - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
In this episode, I machine the eccentric mechanism. Due to an oops in the order of operations I almost have to re-do the hub when it is nearly finished. It all works out in the end. I've been given an old PMR #5 "Coke Bottle" Steam Engine Kit. It came with many parts missing, and we know it's old because they don't make them with the main castings in bronze anymore. This series documents this r...
16 Machining the Packing Glands - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 711Рік тому
In this episode, I machine the packing glands from bronze bar stock. Due to lack of foresight, I can't use my ER-40 collet chuck, and find that my MT2 ER-32 collet chuck is a piece of junk. In the end I mill the bosses instead of turning them on the lathe. The position feedback system in LinuxCNC allows these circles to be created accurately in spite of the machine having Acme screws with quite...
15 Machining the Cylinder Heads - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
In this episode, I turn and drill the cylinder heads. The recess in the outer head is milled using simple G2 and G3 commands. The position feedback system in LinuxCNC allows these circles to be created accurately in spite of the machine having Acme screws with quite a bit of backlash. Both parts end up usable (probably), but errors in work-holding for drilling lead to some issues. I've been giv...
14 Turning the Flywheel and Pulley - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Рік тому
14 Turning the Flywheel and Pulley - PMR #5 #steamengine #steamengines #lathe #machining #turning
13 Mangling the Connecting Rod and Cross Head - PMR #5 Steam Engine - Metal Lathe Mill Combo
Переглядів 956Рік тому
13 Mangling the Connecting Rod and Cross Head - PMR #5 Steam Engine - Metal Lathe Mill Combo
Will a Boring Head Fit a Shoptask 1720 XMTC Lathe Mill Combo?
Переглядів 1,4 тис.Рік тому
Will a Boring Head Fit a Shoptask 1720 XMTC Lathe Mill Combo?
12 Turning the Crankshaft - PMR #5 Steam Engine - Metal Lathe Mill Combo
Переглядів 3,9 тис.Рік тому
12 Turning the Crankshaft - PMR #5 Steam Engine - Metal Lathe Mill Combo
Fitting backplates for 4-jaw chucks on a metal lathe mill combo - cnc machine job work
Переглядів 756Рік тому
Fitting backplates for 4-jaw chucks on a metal lathe mill combo - cnc machine job work
11 Angled Steam Passages and Cylinder Barrel Boo Boo Bodgery - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 901Рік тому
11 Angled Steam Passages and Cylinder Barrel Boo Boo Bodgery - PMR #5 Steam Engine
10 Machining Cylinder Barrel End Features - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 947Рік тому
10 Machining Cylinder Barrel End Features - PMR #5 Steam Engine
9 Machining the Steam Chest - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
9 Machining the Steam Chest - PMR #5 Steam Engine
8 Boring the Cylinder - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 903Рік тому
8 Boring the Cylinder - PMR #5 Steam Engine
7 Machining the Frame Top - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 роки тому
7 Machining the Frame Top - PMR #5 Steam Engine
6 Reaming the Main Bearings - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 2,2 тис.2 роки тому
6 Reaming the Main Bearings - PMR #5 Steam Engine
3 Milling the Valve Slide Bosses and V-Groove - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 3 тис.2 роки тому
3 Milling the Valve Slide Bosses and V-Groove - PMR #5 Steam Engine
2 Machining the Frame - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 2 тис.2 роки тому
2 Machining the Frame - PMR #5 Steam Engine
1Introduction and Machining the Frame Base Reference Surface - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 2,2 тис.2 роки тому
1Introduction and Machining the Frame Base Reference Surface - PMR #5 Steam Engine
5 Mounting the Bearing Caps - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 3,9 тис.2 роки тому
5 Mounting the Bearing Caps - PMR #5 Steam Engine
4 CNC Milling Unavailable Bronze Bearing Caps from Bar Stock - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Переглядів 3,2 тис.2 роки тому
4 CNC Milling Unavailable Bronze Bearing Caps from Bar Stock - PMR #5 Steam Engine
Multifix Tool Post on a Shoptask Metal Lathe Mill Combo
Переглядів 2,9 тис.2 роки тому
Multifix Tool Post on a Shoptask Metal Lathe Mill Combo
I have got the same boring head. Haven’t used it yet, but seems okay.
He he. Yes I like your build and style. I can associate with it. I don’t have a milling machine, so my struggle is a little More.
He he. Man I get you. Mistakes happens. The real art is to overcome them, and in my opinion to be satisfied. That gets me sometimes. Nice work though. I followed all of this engine build and enjoy it. Nice work.
Very nice work sir
Great job. Very interesting. Just what I needed to watch now as I’m planning to build my next steam engine soon. Thanks
Very nice work. He he. Tell me about sketchy. I seem to do it way too much
I bought a Grizzly combo about 23 years ago and I regretted it, the mill sucked, it was actuslly just a more precise drill press, the lathe operated ok. I have since bought a separate lathe and small mill
You're talking about not having enough space while featuring a Dr. Who robot in the background.
I have one half of the garage for workshop including 3 motorcycles. Fred is in the other half. Marital harmony etc.
Was seriously looking into a combo machine and never considered the hastles. Will now be getting a mill first and a lathe later. Thanks for the tip.
This came up as suggested so I watched again. Can you see the daggy looking chamfer at the inboard end of the thread? That is the reason I almost always thread and then chamfer. I find it much cleaner. Nigel
Thanks for the tip, I will give that a try.
One of the BSA caps came with a hex. Made a few, I think I sold two of them!
I'm not giving up my day job 😉
I have one of these. It’s excellent and I really like it. Recommended!
Thanks Stuart! I'm enjoying your adventures with giant chunks of stainless on a smallish lathe. Keep it up!
Interesting video thanks. I don't really understand why people bother with these CI castings for small crankshafts. For small crankshafts they seem more trouble than using steel bar stock. I guess if you didn't have access to a mill as well as a lathe then the casting might offer some benefit.
Both of the PMR kits I have built did the crankshafts this way. Us beginners don't know better and follow the instructions.
@@thumperthoughts The reason are more about cost and marketing. Giving you a cast part feels like you have some added value when you buy the kit but is actually it is harder to machine and comes out way less strong than using steel bar. Sorry, not trying to be negative about the kit. For sure using steel bar would be added expense and more material to remove.
What colors can you get this in?
Thanks for asking! The current color range is black, white, red, orange or pink in either material and also green/brown "camo" in PLA only. I can easily add other colors on request.
To be honest I was completely surprised to see this video. I don't believe I have actually seen another shoptask video or somebody was using the machine and not just doing a review or a sales pitch. I have one of these machines, that I bought brand new 30 plus years ago. The reason why was long conversations with the owner of the company and designer of the machine, I believe his name was John Thomas. I liked the idea of that personal connection . This is before the sales moved to Las Vegas. Not normally a fan of Chinese products , it did seem he had direct overseeing of the manufacturer and quality control. The other reason was that I had a shop space about the size of a closet. Thirty years later the shop has grown and you are correct about owning dedicated machines. We have a Bridgeport, Hendey 14x40 lathe, Southbend 9", shaper, surface grinder, and numerous other machine tools... and while I have considered selling off the ShopTask , it is still here and still being used. Why? Well there are some tasks that does well. One can cut any thread imaginable I believe from 2 tpi to 256 tpi. I have turned a 17 inch disk and it was aluminum and not bread ;) The mill is a drill press, and not that good. We have three other drill presses so it does not see any use. I have often considered just removing the drill press head. The newer styles with the four posts or other mechanism that rises and lowers the head I think would be far more usable. As a lathe it is respectable. I replaced the motor with a 2hp 3ph and a VFD, never touched the belts again. Added a Baldor gear motor and controller to the X Axis. Added a compound and QC Aloris style tool post, a number of other mods have made the ShopTask a keeper. Maybe one day I might add ball screws and turn the machine into cnc. Asked about cons of the ShopTask.... you have addressed most of them. Build quality .... one fellow said import machines and tools were like unfinished kits. Everything is there, just needs a lot if tweaking to make it right. One item I would add is the lack of quill travel on the Tail Stock. Later renditions of the machine redesigned the tail stock. Back when I purchased mine there was a long bed version available. I wish i had gone for this option. Once you add tooling the 20 inches gets used up quickly. Thanks for the video.
Great process! I‘m new to (CNC) lathes and I still find it hard to wrap my head around the concept of the reference tool and its offset (from machine origin) and all other tools to it. Hope it clicks soon haha
Glad it was helpful!
ha ha ... du Stümper...hast gleich mal gezeigt wie man es nicht machen sollte. Danke.
Rotary tables are far more accurate as far as I’m concerned because you don’t have to keep taking the set up and moving it every time you want to remove material. Once it’s set up and everything is dialed in, you can do multiple parts without moving anything, but the part itself.That to me is a much more efficient and accurate way of doing it.
Since I did this one I obtained a spindexer which is much better for this kind of thing on my machine with the limited work volume.
Stereo!
Thanks for sharing. Good tips
Thanks for watching!
how do you tram that thing?
In theory you can shim the column. I have never checked the tram as if I knew how bad it was it would bug me until I fixed it and I'm not psychologically prepared for that rabbit hole at the moment.
I love the Grizzly 17” x 31” like this one, 20+ years old and very accurate within .001”.
They do generally get the job done, and they do fit in a small space. The main cost is in time due to changing setup and taking light cuts because of the lack of rigidity.
This is not a production machine for quickness.
Never as good as 2 stand alone machines, but was made for the purpose of limited space. Need to compare to identical machines not two stand alone machines.
I have the Grizzly G9729 3 in 1, and love it, 20+ years. Mine is a 17” x 31”, longer bed than yours.
I should do that to mine too!
Very nice! This really makes me want to get started on mine. Thanks for posting!
Go for it!
Hello!!. Only a question: to your point of view, the best trade combo Machine with prices about $ 2 500 USD is ?.... In Italy is a factory named Damatomacchine...of course, made in China with designs from italian ingeniers... do you know about the quality this ?....
Sorry I don't. I last researched buying one of these 26 years ago. Like all of the hobby grade machine tools they are going to be coming from various makers who are using similar or the same basic castings. Whether these actually vome from the same foundry is not clear, but what happens afterwards varies a lot. Different brands will have different quality components and different levels of quality control and finishing. To a large extent you will get what you pay for, and to a large extent a cheaper machine can be made to be as good as a more expensive one if you have the time, tools and ability to do that. The general advice is to use a supplier in your country who will stand by their product and ensure that their suppliers keep up to their standards. In the US that seems to be Smithy and Grizzly at the moment. Harbor Freight have never had a good rep on this stuff, and Vevor are new so don't have the track record yet. Check the current reviews and forums. Made in China stuff gets a bad press, but China are going to the moon. They can make equipment of the highest quality, but they are also willing to build down to the lowest price, if that's what the customer wants i.e. they will make and sell cheap crap if the customer is willing to buy cheap crap. So look at the western middle-man and their rep, and avoid the cheapest thing on aliexpress....
“Unless it’s bread.” Almost had a spit take of my tea😂
Brain fart. No script.
Watch out, there's a Dalek hiding in your garage!
Kind of like the Amphicar. A not-very-good car and a not-very-good boat all in the same package.
They are great value for the money. All the extras you say you will get from buying two different machines will cost a lot more money and space. These machines are for serious hobbyist and well worth the money for the level of quality. You will have to spend many thousands to achieve near perfection.
Rigidity is worth the extra bucks. In my opinion.
Pre Industrial Revolution hand crafted” motorcycle parts
5/8= .625 not .650
Yes. That was a brain fart.
Thanks for the insights! I am leaning toward getting separate tools instead of the combo.
Glad it was helpful!
How much price and how the methods re ceived
i bought mine 25 years ago. Check online for prices and current shipping options.
thank You. Saved me 8-10 grand.
Wow. There's a story there. I guess you went with separate used machines?
I was considering the combo style but accuracy is important to me. 3-4k of an inch out of tolerance is horrible specs if that is really the case. I like the idea, but being cheap is not going to be important if it's not very true imo. I prefer a true lathe within maybe 1k of in inch at the very most for what I want to use it for. Thanks for the info.
I do get .001 or better on mine as long as I take very light cuts finishing. Anything heave will deflect, especially on the mill. So slow.
@@thumperthoughtsIt all depends how much effort you put in to get the result you want. You clearly make the effort. People are achieving brilliant results on some of the cheapest mini Lathes with a bit of tinkering first.
A couple things about these machines, from an actual machinist: 1. You won't find a bigger lathe for the same price. You won't find a lathe of the same size for the same price. 2. All machines have their limits. 3. You get what you pay for. With that said, there are work arounds. The mill can be used for smaller work with spacer blocks under the vice. Use the vise that came with it only for lathe work as a compound table. Yes, it will chatter when taking more than .020. It's a 110 machine and not designed to hog steel. You can upgrade the motors on this machine so they have the power to take more than .020. So long as you stay within the motor's limits, it cuts just fine without chatter. Remember, you will spend 3-4000 on a mill that has a similar work envelope. Add that with 10,000 for a lathe with a similar swing. For the price you paid, you have a capable machine. It's limits are you, not the machine. Have patience. A good machinist takes his time to make sure the part it exactly to specification. You are not running a production plant trying to make as many as possible in an 8 hour shift. Take the time to make custom fixtures for your parts. You would be shocked to see that machine can and will turn a small block V8 crankshaft, as well as deck the heads. With a little ingenuity, you can even bore the block. It's a horizontal mill incase you haven't noticed.
Thanks for the honesty! << Unless you cut bread >> lol
Watching metal get sliced off like butter always fascinates me!
There is another consideration beside space, cost! Two machines will invariably cost more than just one of these. I’ve been looking at the Chicago lathe Bridgemill, which would seem to address any rigidity issues, and seems to have a lot of nice features, including, default, CNC. Would be interested in anybody that has one of the newest ones and hear their opinions. Thanks!
Exactly. Machines are very expensive. The similar machine cost 3500 euros in my country and it is great for my needs. Also, it replaces 3 machines. Drill, lathe and mill. I am ok with that, it is a hobby machine.
The CLB is a direct descendant of my machine. I do not have experience with it. Most of your cost is going to end up being tooling anyway, not the machines themselves, which offsets the price somewhat. You get what you pay for.
can i use a machine like this one to bore scooter cylinders?
Yes, with the right tooling, and if you take it slow.
@@thumperthoughts awesome, thanks for the tip
The original cork would of been a single piece from the bark of the cork tree. Interesting video, fun to see how things used to be done.
Yes, that's how they make winne corks, but there are different grades and the wine corks tend to have cracks and flaws and voids in them. I thought I'd try the Drambuie cork this time as it seems to be bound granules. Leaving it to steep for a bit in a jar of fuel will hopefully tell if the binder is fuel resistant.
I enjoyed the detailed strip down of the Enot. I know the name, haven't seen one up close yet. Cheers and stay cool!
:0 it’s happening!
Ah, Ariel, an innovated and fun company. Well suited to have the bumper sticker added that says "Nothing compels me to be rational on all points.". I first met the company when a friend of mine bought one in the 1970s. They are rare here in the US. But still, fun even if it did tend to fry it's rear cylinders. I wish you good luck in your preserving such a wonderful machine. Features such as the volute rebound springs are so interesting. I like to see all sorts of historical machines preserved. Much as I was pleased to see Union Pacific restore the Big Boy 4014 4884 engine here in the US. So many fun moving parts. I also so love the differences in the English language around the world. I was struck with the difference in talking about the insert bearings, you are calling them bushes, here in the states we generally call them bushings. The reason that this hit my rather warped mind is when you first said "replace the bush" and the thought popped into my head, that thought being, with what, a shrubbery of perhaps a nice hedge. Anyway, keep on keeping on, I am enjoying very much.
The wife was also highly amused when I explained how the bush moves up and down on the shaft. Most Ariels do not have those 3 extra cylinders. This one, as I think I mentioned, has the same layout as a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine, just bigger.
Well I do have a steam engine that I started about 20 years ago, so I know what you are going through.
Ah - you suffer from distractivitus also. Well keep at it, it's great fun. I enjoyed the engine vids and look forward to whatever else you get up to.
Very good 👍