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Thanks Geoff, I found this really useful. Being new to CAD drawing, I noticed some of your copy techniques meant that entities were being copied and placed on top of existing entities - could that cause problems later, such as needing to put on separate layers, explode to cut items out, etc.?

What tools is that?

After watching numerous utube videos and being undecided which jig to build this video inspired me the most as it is the most descriptive and to the point. It’s the one I will be building. 👍

Impressive.

Great video, straightforward, and low key presentation - which is refreshing. I was considering one of these via Temu, and the only think to bear in mind is that they do rely on gravity and the threaded rod to drop accurately, and the easy fix some are using is to put springs around the shafts.

Thanks again. Excellent ideas and practicle application of them. Keep it up. It is appreciated.

Thanks for the video. Was on the fence whether to purchase this particular tool, but after viewing your video, SOLD! L.ooking forward to the delivery of my system now Thanks again! Great job.

I ran across Your Channel in my feed at just the right time. Your Patience and skill are just what I needed. I will Practise before I try it for real. Thanks Geoff.

Hi, the sheet material you link to is Expanded PVC Sheet from the USA. Are there any cheap enough recommendations for which one can use, especially obtainable in Australia (e.g., Amazon Australia) - given that the expandable product may be harder to locate or may be called something else here. There are a few variations such as HDPE, and just PVC? Thank you.

This is the exact type of video I was looking for! These look perfect! I’ll be trying my hand at this next weekend! Thanks mate 👏

Thanks for the video we are planing to do this with a squared shaped dado rail I brought from Bunnings is it possible to do this? Or does it have to be the curve shaped dado rails?

Chinese bads. They don’t deserve the term goods. It’s a race to the bottom here.

Buddy I really really like the router table you built. I'm going to try my hand at it. It was just fabulous.

Whats the bit size you used?

Making floating shelves, that are essentially the same thing, just elongated, with an open end for the support framing. I've been getting not so clean edges with plywood and this will help me get to the next level. Only difference would be I'd need another miter cut instead of your bottom rabbet cut as that would be my external 'showing' bottom (on a wall mounted floating shelf) for a much cleaner look.

Hey mate, the countersink bit that you have linked says 1/8 inch but when I open the link it says 3/8. Is the link correct? Also I noticed the one you have in the video has green colour but the one linked has golden colour.

That was a wonderful tutorial on a VERY nice build. I plan on making a router table and your clip has provided the plans. Thanks, Mate!

Hi I have a bevel round my doors how wud I do that plz regards Shirley

Hi Geoff Greetings from Ireland.. .. Some really useful information there particularly re accuracy classification markings. Many thanks for sharing. - A

Great video will need to get one

I added Teflon pipe tape to my lift adjustment screw which seemed to stop the drop...so far.

Really it does not matter

Hey Geoff, Amazon have an 800 watt ‘Evasen’ brand router for $67 which would fit and doesn’t have that locking thing that stops you from raising it high enough to change bits in situ. Looks very similar to the Vevor. It’s a plug-in job, rather than battery but at that price you could buy one and just leave it in there.

🤦 amateur...

Looks like the edge of the board had been worn from either the scraping with the blade or round over or is it to much glue

Wondering why no glue was used on the edges before screwing the panels?

Grate, super video

Hi Geoff, great video! I have been trying to make boxes similar to yours for a while although have really struggled to get the mitres looking good. Do you have any tips or any advice on which table saws you find are most accurate? Thank you

I actually bought some really good heppa bags for the shop vac for $3 and they go for $94.98 EACH and put a good zipper on it that I took from an old winter jacket. Your way seems much easier lol I over think

That compressor noise .. so .. distractive

What cad do you use for your shop drawings? Great job!

It would be helpful to see how much above-table dust and/or chips this collects compared with no over-the-table collection, with different dust-making cuts.

Thanks 🙏

Hey mate, loving the videos. Turning a chippy in a joiner haha. When you talk about painting these cupboard doors, what do you paint them with? Trying to figure out how to make the mdf a bit more moisture resistant so I can replace some doors in my laundry.

I am new to CAD, and your explanation was so easy to understand that it was a great help. I will continue to request lectures on daily necessities such as bookshelves and tables. It was really helpful. Thank you.

Thanks - how did you join the rubber seal. using quick curing adhesive can make the joint hard and brittle making the suction to leak ?

Nice job.

Hello! I have the same elevator, screwed onto a plate purchased at the same time. But I can't make the adjustment so that the cutter is perfectly straight and centered. How did you do it? Thanks!

Bonjour ! J'ai le même ascenseur, vissé sur une plaque achetée en même temps. Mais je n'arrive pas à faire le réglage pour que la fraise soit parfaitement droite et centrée. Comment avez-vous fait ? Merci !

Video leaves out a key step 🎈

I have some scrap pieces in the hall that I would like to use in the project, how do I make the program take into account all the pieces that I added, not just the one I added?

Excellent travail

I recently installed this same lift for my router table. I think it's a good device to start with and improve the table, but it has more than one problem. 1- Sometimes it doesn't go down when you turn the adjustment screw, the weight of the router is not enough. Although it seems that with use this goes away. 2- The adjustment screw for elevation doesn't have any kind of brake and turns only with the vibrations, which results in losing the depth that was given to the router tip. It is solved by adding a nut or something that generates more friction on the thread of the bolt. It is essential to make this arrangement or your work will be ruined. 3- The device is not very robust and unfortunately tends to tilt slightly under certain pressure in the milling process, most of the time it doesn't happen but with certain routers that offer more resistance or denser woods, the tilt is noticeable and will leave marks on the milling. 4- The depth adjustment crank is precarious and very short, it has no additional support to make it turn evenly and if you want to use the other hand to hold the shaft, it is too short and does not allow it, it is a disaster. It is better to use the drill with an allen tip. I took apart the crank and placed a potentiometer knob on the hexagonal rod, with this I can make fine adjustments and with the drill move the depth quickly.

Rather than use a laser measure off your skirting. This is to maintain the same distance above your skirting as you move across incase there is a slight variance

My rise/fall adjustment solution is cut some 1mm thick 10mm OD springs to 70mm length, place them between top alloy plate & underside of router table, always keeps downward pressure on the assembly

Anderson Jose White Jennifer Hall Karen

Hi I have an edge binding machine and would want a contact to buy tapes

Very nicely done !

Thanks, Geoff! Very informative video. I will make this.

Brilliant 👏 learnt something here today, wish me luck lol..👍