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It'll be great to get back out there with you! I'm already looking forward to 2025!

Yeah, I saw and felt a loss of power at the end of the straight and saw the smoke just after turn-in, so I hit the kill switch at the apex of riverside. Not sure if it’s just a blown head gasket or a cracked block. It wasn’t a complete failure, though. Pulled the plugs and had a nice oil/water mixture come out of cylinder 2. Pulled the valve cover and the valves/springs/pushrods all look good. Guess we’ll see when I get it home and pull the head.

@@joshc1017 Hope it is not serious. sorry it didn't go so well yesterday. Points are going all over the place. Can't wait to see what happens today.

There wasn’t yesterday. Not sure why. Likely that the producer wasn’t available. Not sure about today.

Thanks! I got it down to 1:53.05 this morning but I know there’s another 1/2 second in there…

Thanks for the video looks quick is this with the new tire

Yes, the new tire seems to be 1.5 to 2 seconds per lap faster. The prior lap record for this configuration was 1:56.6 but that was in 2019, before the rear spoiler, I believe.

It’s literally just a simple momentary switch. No relay needed.

@@joshc1017 Gotcha - thank you! Some friends at a garage near me were telling me I needed a relay for it or I'm gonna start a fire... and I was scratching my head😆

@@dylanameyerthe fuel door, trunk release, and traction control are all low load signals, like a signal wire to a relay. Simply completing the circuit is good enough and that all the factory switch was doing in the first place. You do want relays for heavier loads. For example, I run relays for the wideband O2 sensors, trans and diff coolers, cool shirt, and even the camera system. I still use the ignition supply to trigger those relays but agree that you wouldn’t want to pull a bunch of power from that wire to run heavy loads.

If you have a stock master cylinder, you notice that the clutch releases too close to the floor. If it’s set properly, release will be closer to the middle of pedal throw. If you ave an adjustable master cylinder, you can adjust there to make up for it.

Awesome to hear! I’m glad they help!

Thanks! It wasn’t as impressive as I was hoping on the dyno but still a good thing to do.

Yes, we’re required to supply a dyno sheet to be eligible to race. We also use data acquisition to calculate theoretical horsepower and torque, which is collected after qualifying and races. Interestingly, older engines have a tendency to produce more power than freshly rebuilt versions, but that’s not always true. Certainly a tired engine with worn rings, etc. will start to produce less power. To be honest, I was surprised by the lack of power increase in the silver car after cleaning and replacing the injectors. It came back within 1 HP of the original tuning session. It never produced more than 360 hp at the wheels and is down to 340 (according to data acquisition) after 3 seasons of racing. That motor is coming out for a refresh this winter. The blue car (formerly black) produced 383 and was detuned to 374 to keep it safely under the limit.

They’re still mounted that way. I haven’t seen a better mounting solution from anyone else, so I’d probably use the same roll bar mounts that I used in the back to mount the front canisters more securely in the exact same location (replacing the band clamps). Access to the schrader valve each weekend is important and I really do like how easy it is to measure pressure.

It was a complete brain shutdown. The engine was about to hit redline (like it does every time down the straight) and I instinctively tried to grab 5th. When I did, I realized a screwed up and went to grab 4th, then thought better of it and decided to coast into the braking zone. No good reason for any of it. Just a brain malfunction.

It's one of those self-flocking dashes (flocked with dust, that is), every time I drive the thing off track... Which happened 4 times in turn 9 at WSIR during test on Friday. LOL

I’ve never had mine balanced. Just installed them straight out of the box.

Thank you!

Yes, the momentary switches are only sending a voltage signal. No need for heavy duty.

I did make a video for that but it looks like I never posted it. I’ll dig through the footage to see if I can find it. In short, you can slide the cover off of the airbag and use silicone or caulk to glue it in from the back.

@@joshc1017 No worries man, I think I figured it out doing exactly what you described. Thanks!

Great question! It’s probably best if you do but I did not fully torque them each time because it’s kind of a pain. I got them close, then double checked everything after final assembly.

@@joshc1017 Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.Regards

They make a glossy clear that you can use as a top coat. I would have laid that on top if I could get it in CA. Maybe give that a shot. I think it looks better and it should be easier to clean.

I’m glad they’re helpful. Thanks!

It just needs to be clean. It’s basically a spray on wrap.

Thanks!

Yeah, I need to figure out what’s up with that camera. It missed some good action in the second race.

Yeah, my brakes did not want to cooperate that time around. Dave's eyes got huge when we watched the footage last night. I had a couple pucker moments at the exit of 6, too. Now to dial it back just a hair so I make fewer mistakes...

That was a close one!

Yeah, we cancelled Utah and replaced it with Laguna. Sounds like we need to fire our web admin...

@@joshc1017 dang that could really mess up someone’s weekend. Are you guys racing tomorrow at laguna?

@@sshag4653yes, qualifying at 9:45, race around 2 pm. Race should be livestreamed on the racing network.

Yes, 60 lbs makes a difference and the right rear wheel is light at 1/2 tank (from a cross weight perspective). Some folks like to bring the car in close to empty at the end of a race and calculate the amount of gas they need to have in each race. That stresses me out, so I prefer to start full. In either case, weight distribution is changing as you consume fuel, so you’re either starting closer to 50/50 or finishing that way, assuming you’re running 30-40 minute sprint races.

Yeah, I really wasn’t expecting to reel him in like that, even with the different lines we were taking through 1 and 2. Before lowering the rear, the car was more twitchy under braking and wanted to rotate too much when trail breaking. With the back wanting to step out at turn entry, it was hard to get power down early.

Yes, I used the factory upper shroud. I’ve seen one racer make his own shroud and use silicone to get a tighter seal and force all air through the radiator. He also removed the factory fans and replaced them with a 14” fan to keep it cool enough at idle in the pits but allow more air through at speed. His coolant temps run lower, so I’m putting that (replacing fans) on my list as something to try.

Thank you!

Are you going to disable the AIR system? If so, you can remove the air pump, etc. Spec Corvette AIR System Removal ua-cam.com/video/zpP5dauYVOA/v-deo.html

@@joshc1017 I didn’t plan on it. Do I have to with the zip tie conversion?

@@shawn1394if you want to keep the the air system functioning, you can either extend the hose over to the original port, drill a new hole in the opposite side of the air box to move the port, or install a small cone air filter directly on the hose.

@@joshc1017 thank you so much for the info. I appreciate you!

Right on! Glad to hear that it helped!

Thank you! I had the will power to go light on the WhistlePig this time. LOL

Thanks! Yes, they are well built. Tim is a pro driver and AP gets a ton of seat time, too.

Thanks! It was hard to back out of that first side-by-side with Marc but it was better to not let Tim and AP get away from us.

I think the announcers referred to them as ‘flies”, cracked me up. I didn’t have any issues with them though. They were all quick to point by and make room.

I am running the spec spoiler from G-Stream but no wings in Spec Corvette. That little spoiler produces quite a bit of extra downforce; so much that it took a while to figure out how to rebalance the car when we added it a couple years ago.

SCCA charged $702 for the double race weekend (Sat and Sun total).

@@joshc1017 Very reasonable; about what I paid last 2-day event there with Speed Ventures. Thanks for the quick reply.