Відео

I've got a flatbed Toyota that I'm wanting to add a crane to, except I'm planning to add it to the foot of it, rather than the base. I plan to have a leg that swivels down and extends to support the weight, like the Hilux Surf, except mounted directly under the crane, sharing the same mounting bolts. It would need to be adjustable, hydraulics would definitely allow the most options, just unsure of what to source.

What a great job. You're very skilled

A vege pealer will clean up the edges 👍👍 been using them for years 👍👍😎🇦🇺

3 thumps up!

Que presión tiene

Cual es el calle

Loved it mate but next time just slow the camera a bit because it's a bit hard to focus and show us a few more price tags but I loved your commentary ,all up all good and thanks for doing it .

This is honestly the best vice restoration video I have seen! Thanks for publishing this! Many useful tips! If I may add my 20p... you need to get into nickel-plating if you are going to continue vice restorations - nickel-plating those screw handles makes all the difference. All you need is about 100 dollars worth of parts and components: a power source, nickel anodes, some wires and three acids.

Very nice skills sir, wonderful video and very interesting. Did you inherit your dads shop from when he built his boat? That sounds like a marvelous story there, building a steel boat. I have quite a few of those old Makita's and metabos and I cut marble and when they bite with a 10" or above look out!

This is EXACTLY my problem with my lathe. Thanks for your video. I am going to try the same thing. Great stuff.

Best regards from Russia! Nice and clever work. Firstly i couldn't understand Australian English then step by step watching skilful hands everything became obvious

Thx 4 ASMR sandblasting and yer wisdom. Collecting Dawn's IS a vice of mine - i had no idea about the faults that might be lurking there in my collection! Yer comments are always unique and insightful.

7:06 'change as needs require', ah, erm, is that a euphemism for cough 'mistakes'?!😅

Nice, I also have 2 of these types of cans only difference mine are 5 gallons. Mine have a lot of rust and corrosion on the inside. I don't have access to a sand blaster. Is there another way I can clean the rust out and restore it ?

That's pretty slick ,attaboy ! Nice.

Man, what a project, hope every thing that fell is OK, One Q, did you try to disassemble the chuck an heat it from the inside? Glad you got it off after 20 years, and liked the no worries mate Stu 👍👍😂😂

This is gold! Saved me a ton of time and likely some gear damage. Brilliant, and thanks for sharing!

Wow, Been there done that. Your method was one I did not think of. Good idea. I love the spindle bore id. makes for a very versatile machine. I did a good bit of research on how to make it easy to get it off the next time. Lube, thin shim washers made of steel,copper, teflon ect. My success finally came with a washer made of a thin cardboard gasket material. It compresses and does not effect the run-out. Thanks for the video, hope you can find replacement gears.

Nice build!, I wish we could get the Hilax or similar work truck here in the US.

Kia Ora & Good Morning from Auckland, New Zealand ...great video bro.

pretty cool

What stops the ram from just dropping down? is it just friction?

Nice!!

Stuart -I watched your excellently detailed video. Not sure the year you made this, but I had the same realization 5 years ago when my chuck failed. The 'factory' changed out the entire drill - no repair. While I own many Dewalt products (most use same battery), this design has started pushing me back to Milwaukee. Yes, what was Dewalt thinking to release such a convoluted design. I call this "win the battle, lose the war". Dewalt - THANKS FOR THE EDUCATION!

Thanks mate, I kew UA-cam would help me fix that switch, I have one of these motors on my trailer to power the hydraulics.

that poor old girl needs some love

If you put the drill in hammer mode before taking it apart and knocking the chuck and harbour out would that have prevented it getting stuck in hammer mode ?

I have one of these, pulled it out a scrap bin, the 1st locking is stuck halfway out, now i know it just knocks out it will be a pleasure to use when ive fixed it!! 💪💪👍

Sir nice work

Here's a small tip for free to get that chuck off in 30 seconds. Get a 10 mil Hex Key and put the long side in the chuck and tighten it as far as you can, tap down on the short end rotating it after every tap and the whole shaft and Chuck will come out of the drill with no damage to the drill or chuck. The hammer setting, you don't have to take the drill apart to rectify it. All you have to do is turn the selector to hammer drill and a good tap with a soft hammer on the end of the fully opened Chuck. Also, before assembly, inject some CV joint grease into the cavity with a large syringe.

I like the work you did on this truck crane. Especially the thought to keep out water. The problem of the winch handle hitting the overhead rack could be prevented by putting a 12 volt elect winch instead - ie no handle. or making your crane a bit taller to allow the winch handle to clear the truck rack top beam. I really like your truck bed with the fold down sides! I will build one to replace my rotting out original truck bed. Thanks for posting.

That’s a great job you’ve done there , bang on 👍🏻

This is much more difficult to do on the 796.. They changed the hammer mode housing.. I had to freeze the shaft before the hammer sprog would fit back on it.. Also the lid of the silver housing that contains the other half of the hammer sprog actually needs to go onto the shaft before you reassemble it.. If you forget to do that and install the hammer sprog back on shaft.. the sprog itself wont fit through the hole in the very front of the silver housing.. Ask me how I know ???..Lol

Very very impressive, one question is your use of ultra strong bolts for the base hold down. Sometimes a grade 5 is recommended over grade 8. They may have to be spread out further and more of them. This is not condemnation just something I have observed. Best regards Peter

Buy same crane for $179 at Harbor Freight, often on sale. Lifts 1000lbs; mounts similarly; arm lifts 90" above mounting surface, cable winch gives more lift from below mounting surface.

Tuebe que rebanar todo el chok quirugicamente cas casi hasta llegar a la rosca para debilitarla, el problema es que el eje resorteea y evita el afloje cuando estan demasiado apretado

Muchas veces ni calentando lo aflojas,

36:00 I like that technique. People often paint these, and that’s just not right - but I do like the idea of making them pop a little bit. Did the same thing on two Record woodworking vices I’ve restored.

11:13 Funny: I had never seen this boot jack before in my life, but now I’ve seen it twice in a week looking at restoration videos. The other guy said it was sold to him as a European antique, and after sandblasting he discovered it says TAIWAN on the inside. I like it.

2:25 Buying second hand tools seems like a no-brainer, but a lot of people don’t see it: they’re worried that used stuff might have faults, or they assume that newer is always better, due to advances in technology (funny how that one really doesn’t apply at all to many tools). I suppose it becomes obvious at some point, as you get better at identifying quality. Vices might be the best example: a few years ago I snapped up a 28 kg Boley vice for 30 Euros. This pattern is still being made under the Leinen brand, I think prices start at 600 Euros or so. The guy told me he had just retired from amateur Porsche racing - he didn’t need money, he just wanted his stuff to be used instead of throwing it away. But I still didn’t understand what a deal that was until I started using it: that old thing runs so buttery smooth, it’s unbelievable. So yes, a really good vice is expensive to make and expensive to buy new, but you really don’t have to: they last three or four lifetimes, so go find a used one, they’re out there. I found it on eBay, but it was pickup only, that’s why nobody had gone for it yet. Not sure if that’s a tip, because it needs some luck to find the right thing in your area, but that’s how it worked for me. Another way to find things can be to use generic search terms: people sometimes don’t know what it is they’re selling, so searching for stuff like “metal block” might throw up tools like 1-2-3 blocks or v-blocks for cheap. I sometimes buy new tools as I need them or don’t have the patience to wait for a good deal, but generally I look for second hand stuff first. Absolutely worth it.

Absolutely phenomenal. It’s a crazy world, why not get lucky every once in a while.

Champion job mate Good old Aussie ingenuity and very simple design.

10:36. Thats what happens when you have something done up real tight and then you bash on the job with a big hammer.Like driving out a kingpin or similar. You can tell by the handle it was thrashed. Poor little feller. And the gas used to fix it would cost a bomb today unless done as a foreigner at your workplace. Done it myself. Had to make a new sliding jaw out of steel . Still using it today 4o years later.

1:49. At the little oil cans. " They start at $20 and go down to about $15." What????

Nice work and gorgeous vises!

Ha ..!! Just all out of the trash .!! Amazing Ingenuity My Friend ...! Beautiful ..!!

Stuart, here I am commenting again on your superb video. I own two of these which don't seem to appreciate drilling basalt rock (extremely hard volcanic rock) in preparation to splitting rocks with wedge and feathers. This is a dusty job and drill bits die quickly and often turn red hot in the process. The 2nd of these drills I not to many months ago replaced the chuck, but after doing so the hammer feature does not work. Followed your instructions but must have done something wrong. I am in the process of dis-assembling it again to look inside the hammer housing. Turns out that I abused and punished the drill to such a degree that one of the two gears that mesh together to produce the hammer action is worn out. Looking at your video made it clear to me that the gear inside the housing (not on the shaft) had no teeth remaining. No more basalt rocks for these two drills. Lost too many brain cells repairing these two characters and besides I have to use several diffferent dia. bits to get to the final 5/8" hole and the bits are not cheap and have a short lifespan. I recently bought a large Bosch hammer drill (1-5/8") 15 lbs. and what used to take me 4-5 hours and 2 recharges and short chuck life, with the Dewalt drills can accomplished in 10 minutes. The Bosch uses SDS Max bits which have a shaft dia. of 18mm and lock solidly into the Bosch chuck. I learned that it is better to buy the right tool for the right job. I finally realized that in digging holes for planting trees and constantly encountering large rocks was a situation that would not end anytime soon. I can put a 5/8" bit (final size) and complete a hole in one shot and the bit lasts and lasts. You rightly point out that Dewalt's chuck design is inferior and if you push the drill too hard or use it on dusty jobs you will soon replace the chuck through a combination of jamming and slippage of the jaws. Replacing a chuck is not a job for the light of heart and is not something you do not want to do more than once in your life given that life is hard enough as is. This will be my fourth and hopefully my last attempt at this. Having said, that I copied your video onto my computer in the event that one day it is censored by youtube and deemed to contain offensive content. Hope not, but might be doing teardown #5 at a future date.

Just wondering, Stuart, how your ways are after using them to hold the spanner wrench at 500fp torque and then dropping the chuck on them?

Absolute legend, saved my ass! Thank y'all!

Hi Stuart Thanks for the the show I was in Sydney for 20 years now I'm in France with my DeWalt DCD796 XE with a broken chuck Could you please help me to find the correct part number chuck with a key for this drill Being not far away from England I might have a chance. On my side I still try my luck Thank Mate DomIJ