Відео

Red wine only

I have the same model, hit a soft stump and the blade flew out of the front. I called DR and they said that model comes with a light duty blade which makes zero sense, because it is marketed as a heavy duty brush mower. Just something to look into.

Great video but please turn the music down when you're speaking man it's kind of annoying I can barely hear you because of the music just saying

What a load of shite..what a sausage....and your music sucks.

Have the assistant teachers themselves had the 1st or 2nd shift in the awakening process or do they become ATs after completing x number of courses without any significant insight and what is the track record of students in this tradition with a 1st stage of awakening.

Ginger helped me improve my immune system as I was getting sick quite often and not going to the gym so indirectly helped me remain consistent.

Beer is bad, but not because of phytoestrogens! Do a little research and you'll see.

The number one problem is the pipes are supposed to touch inSide. That way the stress of driving isn’t on the threads. Those couplers used to have a collar inside which the pipe would rest on protecting the threads.

I’ve had a DR for 28 years runs like a champ and starts on 3 pulls - why has mine never broken down in 28 years easy I don’t operate it the way you do. I’ve been through some heavy thick stuff higher than my head as my cuts down 1 1/8 trees but not 10 of them at the same time. Clear around the heavy stuff and cut the thick brush trees with a better tool for that job. Take care of it and it will last a long time.

so now after 2 years, are you still happy with your machine?

Nice! But it would be good if DR designed better engine shielding from sticks and whatnot. @6:30....I'd do a chainsaw or a brush blade on a trimmer. That's pretty brutal on belts, spindle, and bearings. Plus tipping back the engine does mess with oil sump level, and possible oil pump pickup.

Hey! Thank you for sharing. I’m currently in the process of going on a very similar journey and am currently scouting land in the UP to create something off grid on a low budget. Lots of diy to learn.

What happened to the keto bulk?

It's quicker and better for your machine to chainsaw the thicker stuff flat and then mulch over it but that was definitely a great stress test.

Great review!

#1 Get rid of the stupid drive cap!! That's for using a sledge hammer and it will probably still bugger up the threads! Just cut the threads off of the sacrificial nipple and put the bit right over that. If it's really hard ground, might have a spare nipple handy. #2 use teflon thread paste. Better than the tape. #3 make sure you use "drive couplings" not standard ones and tighten with a pipe wrench. Every few feet, tighten again to make sure the threads are seating correctly. Tighten as you go. #4 It's easier to work off the bed of a pick up truck. And safer than balancing on the ladders. #5 Back flush the well with a garden hose if at all possible. You want to try to drive the fines away from the point. Usually, there's a clay layer above the water bearing sands. If you try to pump out of that, your point will get plugged. You can kinda feel the difference as punching through the clay layer will be a bit harder and get a little easier when you get through it. Note that as long as you are below the water table, you can put the point lower to get in the sand. The water will come up in the pipe. Do check water level with a weighted string or even a tape measure. #6 You really want to back flush the well for best production. A garden hose works best, but you can make a "plunger stick" with a good rag wired to the stick. Drill a hole through the stick and wire through the rag and the hole. You want to avoid losing the rag down the pipe although you can probably fish it out with stiff wire. Fill the pipe and use a plunging action to try to force water backwards through the point. My guess is that the point is in the clay layer and not sand and the point got plugged with fines. You might be able ta add a section and back flush it clean. When you buy the point, they come in different mesh sizes. If you get a fine mesh, it will tend to plug easier. I advise talking to neighbors with shallow wells and try to get a good idea of what the ground and water table look like in the area, A local hardware store might know the area too and have the best advice. The people at the big box stores won't have a clue! Really best to research it before you start. As for clearing out the plugged point, there are various methods. A power washer adapted to the pipe or with a hose down in the pipe can sometimes work. If you get it below the water table, the pulses can sometimes blast it clear. There's an old time trick called "shooting a well" It involves firing a shotgun shell down the pipe. Just be careful trying it, and ideally, cut the end off the shell and remove the shot and plastic shot cup. You then replace the plastic wad with cardboard or paper packed tightly. The old timers would just put the barrel down the pipe and let it rip!! But if you are creative, you can make an "adapter". I've seen one that an old timer made that screwed right on the pipe and did the job nicely!! I will avoid too much detail and point out that you should only try this at your own risk!! But I've seen it work! You might also try citric acid. It works good against a lot of iron. You can buy it in granular for, food grade. It's pretty safe to use. Pour some in and let it sit a few days. A small amount of muriatic acid can work too, but use with caution!! No matter what you try, flush it adequately afterwards!! and use common sense caution!! First thing to try are the garden hose or plunging. But if indeed you are in a clay layer, you need to get past that. You can always try pulling it up too. Some chain wrapped around the pipe and a mechanical "farm jack" can work. You need a good stable base like heavy plywood Putting in a shallow well sand point sounds easy, but there can be more to it than meets the eye. You've made a great move though by using the jack hammer! Easiest method by far to drive one!! Good luck!!

I’ve been looking into options for an irrigation well, would something like this supply enough water to fill a huge tank?

I think you need a bigger wrench :)

Helpful tip: Dig down as far as you can with a hand auger before using jackhammer. This saves wear and tear on pipe assembly. Also, After 3 shallow wells with 1 1/4" pipe and sand point, I switched to a 3" pipe and sand point. Result is greatly increased flow and quicker charging of pressure tank.

What a load of noise. I can’t watch it.

YOU JUST SOLD ME THAT MACHINE…….THANK YOU SIR. MOSTLY EVERY OTHER VIDEO OUT THERE GOING OVER LAWNS ……

Feel the Ginger Burn!👍😡👍

You should get the 3" chipper attachment and chainsaw that bug stuff then feed it into the chipper.

This is total abuse for that machine. A CTL skid steer with a mower or mulcher would be more appropriate for that job. Or saved the bigger stuff for other method. We have all been guilty of pushing the limits equipment. Good luck.

Just get a chainsaw.

Young man you have some great info here but that background music's gotta go

I see you have 12 guage fuse installed. Safety first 😄 🤜🏼🤛🏼

How much water can you pump from the two wells before they go dry? They will likely refill themselves in time..clean them out and seal the tops so no crud or critters can get in.. run a 1 1/4” pipe thru the sealed top into the water..use a cheap Harbor Freight shallow well pump..at the very least you could use it for bathing, and laundry.. l saw overhead lines in your video so you probably can get power.. hang in there.. 👍

I came to watch the Michigan shallow well drilling. I got side tracked by the pioneer, off grid and solar angle. Then, I saw power lines behind you at 1:04. If you do connect to power, it's ok with me. Just be honest about it. I wish you the best in this awesome adventure. That is some beautiful scenery around you. If you are ever in the Waterford area and want to run a shallow well dry, hit me up. My sump pump is constantly cycling. I am almost convinced there is an underground spring finding its way into my basement sump pit. During the March snow thaw, the pump was cycling every 5 minutes for a week. 8000 gallons on the high side guestimate. A few weeks ago, it was cycling every 47 minutes. After a good shower, it was cycling every 15 minutes. Last week it was cycling every 25 minutes, Today, it is cycling every 39 minutes. The water department didn't find any leaking water lines. My bill says that I only use 100 gallons a day. Where is all the water coming from? It is either water caught by my basement walls or a spring. Plan A is to drain gutters 30' away from house and grade yard away from house. Plan B is to install buried french drains. Plan C is to dig a shallow well 8" x 15' and pump the water out of it instead of the sump pit in my basement.

Considering all the beer I drink I'm probably some sort of titan freak. But still I should quit before is too late. Thanks for sharing,... plus hops taste like shit!!!

use a spare coupler for the driver cap instead of that driver cap. your post driver and jackhammer wouldve slide over it perfectly. also after that well cleared up you shouldve done one more 5ft pipe to get it seated in the vein.

Can I get 200 feet deep like this?

Best video showing what this is capable of cutting. My land isn't even that bad. You helped me make a decision.

Thx great video!

I juts got one of these DR field brush mowers for $100 it juts had a electrical issue casing it not to start but it does run good it had the Kawasaki engine on it.

I bought one of these this month and have run it in very tough terrain and 6-foot-high weeds/sapplings about 10 hours over 3 days. I have some comments for those interested in operation and getting started with this nice machine. (I am going to post these comments on a few other videos as well, FYI.): 1. This video finally shows the kind of trees and big weeds I wanted to get rid of, so thenk you! You have gone over the top of the size I would tackle with it, but it's noce to see the limits! Chainsaw time for me on some of these -- which you do mention. 2. My dipstick came off at some point, so make sure it is secured and keep an eye on it. 3. If you cut along an edge vs diving into the middle of a big pile, you can see possible obstacles better, avoid stall outs, use the Reverse a lot less, run at a faster speed. A different video shows a guy backing in and out of a heavy brush pile -- very slow going relativelly if you can avoid it. 4. Reverse and the steering brakes are absolutely the best features! Don't buy anything like this without these features. I rented a different machine a few months ago, and the turns and backing out of trouble wore me out. 5. Electric start is great and helps you quickly recover from stall outs -- althugh the 20 hp engine is very capable of taking out big brush. 6. Tackling larger trees and getting over obstacles is best accomplished by pushing down on the handles to raise the deck. The driver in this video does this without comment, but it is a very good skill. Also, I have very irregular land compared to this guy, and raising the deck is huge when traversing ravines and dips. 7. Pay attention to the "burnishing" comments in the manual for the clutch and brakes. It only takes a few minutes. I don't know why DR doesn't do this in the factory, but... When burnishing the clutch (PTO up/down on console) the unit almost stalls each time you engage the PTO -- so be ready to disengage it quickly before you do it again (they say 50 times). 8. When assembling the drive to the deck, a nice flat and smooth surface is far preferable. I was able to get this together by myself, but having a helper would have been great. The deck is a little heavy -- but I was on rougher gravel, too. 9. When setting up initially, make sure you bring your oil (2 quarts) and, of course, gasoline. Goes without saying that it needs oil and gas. 10. When getting the unit out of the crate, you will need (a) wire snips or tough scissors to clip lots of zip ties , (b) tools to pry various stapled boards apart (hammer and very flat pry/nail removal bar), (c) crescent wrench for the big bolt holding the deck to the side. 11. I didn't do this, but I would slide the deck out of the crate first. Set it somewhere on a nice flat and smooth surface. 12. When getting the main unit out of the crate, be sure to (a) remove the wheel blocks in front, (b) clip the zip ties squeezing the brakes, (c) put the unit in Neutral. 13. The battery is disconnected, so just plug the positive and negative connectors into the battery. 14. There is another connector down on the bottom right side under the handlebars. It also needs to be connector or your unit won't start. 15. There is a gas shut-off also -- below the handle bars. It is probably in the shut off position when you get it. 16. When putting the drive belt on the pulleys, the most visible internal pulley is NOT what the belt goes around. The belt goes around the smaller pulley deeper inside the engine unit. 17. If you are running in 2nd gear and do a fast 180, be ready to move fast! Likewise, don't underestimate the speed of the Reverse. 18. Wear gloves!!! There is a safety proximity cut-off on the left and gear enagement on the right. So, when going through brambles, you can't just take you hands off of the handles. 19. Wear long pants, boots, protective eyewear, and, possibly, a forestry helmet with mask. The unit actually kicks up almost no debris, but the sapplings and weeds not cut will snap and snag you. 20. If you get stuck, don't underestimate the great leverage you have on the unit by pulling/lifting the front push-down bar on the front of the deck.

4,000 dollar machine I will use it hard but I would be much easier than you. You can tell you dont take care of equipment like you have to pay for it.

Give us an update, Will.

Houghton/ Hancock area? I live about 25 min away. I'm curious to see how this works in the winter

I bought a starter off Amazon $170.00 was at my home in 4 days so I'll have the old one rebuilt

I got 4 buckets one is a 4 ft bucket

We had a lot of trouble like u getting it started. Its runs now. We have to get a tire. Or a tube fot one of the front tires. We are in Missouri. Where are u ? So we just have to find tube little thinks like u

I have a 1976 just like yours. It had set for 12yrs

If i take regularly hops for sleep and i am a man,does that suppelment has that bad effect on me?

Fukkina! I just bought one. Your video exemplifies how I'll be abusing the crap out of it

Why not drive it deeper?

Bushhog on a full sized farm tractor would have been run before.

If beer 🍻 increase femenine property's then which drink increase manly property's

Design flaw, nut holding handlebars.