Відео

I just smoked a squatted truck in mine and it's still 100% stock and not running right lol. I went to go around him and he floored it trying not to let me pass but I still got around him- laughed in his face as I zipped by him lol.

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk these RSX are so light. Mine was fully gutted interior too. It wakes up the car. I think I removed like 300 pounds. Stock weight is 2800 pounds.

Yeah I would imagine gutting an auto would really help it get off the line much faster plus just overall in general.

Thanks, really appreciate it. And glad to see you payed attention to the pinned comment and found the other video as well, as I hope everyone does.

@92kbuilds-mn2lk Anytime I do a timing belt, I replace everything, especially on a customers car. Ya if you aren't familiar with those cammed tensioners, it can be tricky. Old school timing belts on late 70s imports , all they used was the cammed tensioner you had to hang a weight off of a rod that inserted in those 2 holes, and the weight was a certain measurement from the center of beari g, example Alfa 164 LS V-6, it's a bad ass motor, look up Busso motor! Sounds like a Ferrari!

Do they still sound like a Ferrari in the late 90's/early 2000's? I always liked the way the Mazda KLDE & KLZE 2.5 V6 sounded, kinda like a Ferrari but probably not as good as the Alfa Romeo's- those are rare here in the US (not sure where you're from).

Subtle/exaggerating- and it depends on how loud the car is and whether you drive with the windows down or not which are all huge variables. Let's just say compared to other tires I have ran, there is very little warning before they break traction in a corner- which again is probably due to the weak ass sidewall folding under suddenly when you pull enough force. But that is hardly the takeaway from this video, as there were so many different problems I encountered with this tire...

They are fun when they run right but it's hard to keep one that's not new running right for more than 12 months at a time it seems. Then again that seems to be true for almost anything that ever sits in my driveway, but I guess that's what happens when you buy used. What Infiniti you running?

In the following/last video I found that the MAP sensor was disgusting which solved the stalling issue and greatly improved the misfire once cleaned, but I still have a light high boost hight rpm misfire. Changed the plugs yesterday but no luck, Subaru coils only have 25-30K on them. I was going to check the bpv and 3 port bcs next, but it still makes good boost. Will check all hoses and clamps as well...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk is it telling you which cylinder or is it random? Also have you check the valves make sure they are cleaned

That's the weird thing. Since day 1 when we got it almost 5 years ago with 55k miles on it clear up until now with 132k miles- all these misfires over the years and it has never once thrown a misfire code. And I was just thinking the same thing about the valves with it being direct injection- they have likely never been cleaned. I'm sure the walnut blast is in it's immediate near future...

Anything turbo is a PITA long term to keep running 100%. Pushrod V8's are way easier to keep going (as you know). At least the Eclipse has been solid all year now that I got it all fixed up. Still gotta get to the RSX...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk true that and it came a long way!

About 2 hours, but it depends on your tools, knowledge, experience level and any problems you might run into along the way. Could go as quick as 1 hour for a pro with everything he needs and no issues, or all day for the beginner running into issues with limited knowledge and tools. But that's why I make these videos...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk thank you!

Check what out? I don't see any videos on your channel and what are the chances we live in the same place if that's what you mean lol. I can try to help though.

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk i just meant some help lol my bad but i just did spark plugs and wires and even before my eclipse was having a hard time not stalling out. but after this i turn the key it might not start or hold a start 😂😂

Well, what was the end result of this video? I post too many to remember them all. And I would need to know what engine codes you are getting...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk p0335 and p0340

No, all stock except for the greddy cat-back.

I detailed the power loss fix in the video. My idle has gotten better over time without doing anything, but it probably still needs something replaced...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk so all u did was change ur air box?rlly need help with my car 😂

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk also what’s the exhaust set up your running because, I want too know if I just cut my back muffler off and straight pipe it will it make a difference

Yeah, because as I said in the video, the only thing I can think is the old filter was rattling around in there (I had a weird vibration also). Clearly you skipped through the video or didn't pay attention- I suggest you watch it from beginning to end instead of making me type it all out in the comments. It was a really weird one-off type of problem, so likely not the issue you have. Start with fixing any codes you have- presumeably you have a check engine light on? So see what the codes are. And the exhaust is a Greddy Cat-Back system, Evo 2 or something like that- plus a hole in the downpipe under the engine lol.

Maintenance is key. Fix the oil leaks, fix coolant leaks, do a tune up when necessary, change fluids when you're supposed to, and be sure to change the timing belt when it's due so the engine doesn't blow. I have videos of all this on the channel fixing mine up...

No but try to go to "Top Tier" rated stations. Just google "top tier gas" for info (and locations), but it's basically certified good gas.

Don't forget about the timing belt that needs changed every 60k I think ($1100 for a shop to do it). I have a video on that on my original channel now called "Buckeye Ballistics". You can do it yourself for about $300 in parts (name brand O.E. parts).

I'm in the rust belt. My Durango literally rusted apart to where the rear end fell out from under it 😬

I honestly have no clue because mine is a V6, and I was getting mixed results when I tried searching for you. Auto parts store will be able to tell you though...

Because as the belt gets hotter the rubber gives better grip against the pulley so they don't slip and squeel against it. Try tightening it a little, provided that you are talking about the belt in this video. I had the same issue until I tightened it a little more...

You know it

Yeah I tried to reply to you last night on the other video but it looked like you deleted your comment. I think they may have discontinued the impact that I'm using because I can't find it now either. I put up a link of a Dewalt on both videos that has the same amount of power that I would now recommend since mine is no longer available. Problem with the cheaper ones is they are not as powerful (mine was over $300 5 years ago).

Only potential problem with that is they have been using the 6g72 engine code since the 80's, and there have been many different versions and variants along the way with different components and torque specs and such and different internals as well like SOHC vs DOHC. They have also been mounted in a ton of different orientations- same way in the Galant I think as in the Eclipse, but backwards in the 3000GT & Stealth, and longitudinally mounted in the SUV's. The different mounting position puts some of the accessories in different spots, and I think different years and applications even had different firing orders and distributors. They may have added tensioners, moved tensioners, and removed tensioners. Many other parts along the way changed as well I'm sure. Easy to get confused and mix things up if you don't know what you're doing. So great tip, but you have to be careful unless the manual shows and clearly states the differences along the way for all models.

Should post a video, I'd like to see that!

That depends on the person. I have small hands and short stubby arms, so some stuff is easy for me to reach but not so much for others...

The secondary tensioner that I found out about later? (there are 2) There is no "aligning" the hydraulic tensioner, you just bolt it down and pull the pin- which I'm pretty sure I showed. If you're talking about the secondary tensioner, as I said, I was unaware of that one until my belt slipped again- see pinned comment...

The engine is under load while driving which puts a higher demand/more stress on the engine compared to N position. If there is a problem, it might only show up when the engine is stressed while being driven.

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk thank you very much for answer and opinion. Can you also share opinion why this code not appear when car driving on LPG? From logical thought, it's can be mean that problem can be on gasoline fuel system? Cuz sometimes code P0300 but sometimes it's P0301 and P0303, so it's mean we know that problem in time to time in those 1 and 3 cylinders. Bad that check this is not easy cuz need a lot of headache for getting to those cylinders, cuz maybe it's just spark plugs but maybe not, cuz on LPG no misfire :/

What is LPG? I think you're in a different country than me, never heard of LPG...

It's usually the tensioners that fail and let them slip, as was the case for me. However, I have heard of plenty of timing belts snapping and destroying engines...

fixed? under the car isa pile of rust -.-.kekek

Yeah, check out the other videos. For me ended up veing my timing belt had slipped.

Also, what was the conclusion about the antifreeze leak - fix ?

Again all the details in the videos, but I ended up having to replace the water pump along with a couple seals to finally fix the leak.

As good as I can with the crappy syncro's lol

Yeah I thought that in-car clip helped show kinda what it felt like for lack of better words. It rips pretty good for only 210hp- the GTS intake, cams, tune, higher compression (and premium fuel) add the extra 10hp over the GT model, and shift the powerband closer to redline. Combine that with the shorter GTS gear ratios and it moves pretty good for what it is. A lot of people probably think they are weak because they have raced either the 4 speed auto GT which is a decent bit slower to 60mph, or even worse the 4cyl model. And you know I came from the Mustang with with over 300hp, but this thing impresses me for only 210hp. It's not bad at all...

​@@92kbuilds-mn2lkI got a 2002 stratus with the 3.0 and you've been a huge help in figuring out how to diagnose this engine man thank you so much 🙏 there are not many people out there who explain things as easily as you and thanks to that after I do this timing kit I can finally have my car back 😢😢😢😢

Yeah I still gotta fix my flexpipe

I-O

V6?

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk yes v6 auto only down side is it has a few fender benders and needs some suspension work but for running and driving in today’s economy 400$ is a really good deal

Yeah definately. My was running and driving for $800 but started oveheating and leaking coolant the very next day, then broke down immediately after I fixed that lol (timing belt).

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk when did you have to replace it? Mine had 147980 exact lol

130k when I got it but they are supposed to be done every 60k. And the belt was fine but the tensioner was bad so it slipped- thankfully only 2-3 teeth or it would have destroyed the engine. I have videos doing the repair along with the water pump under there. You can take the top cover off to inspect the belt and check tension...

Cam sensor is in the distributor and not really serviceable. Crank sensor is behind the lower timing cover. If you're throwing codes for both at the same time, then it is most likely the timing belt. I have videos doing the job and an update on the secondary tensioner I wasn't aware of the first time (it slipped twice).

I do have an idle issue that still needs adressed, so maybe the iac...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk with these cars if it cold starts good, but the idle gets worse when warm, and when off throttle its IAC. Warm idle should be 700 +\- 50, sticking IAC can be cleaned but I’ve only had success with this once. For after market IAC I’ve found if OEM isn’t an option either WVE or Walker Products will work, basically identical in stepper motor operation but WVE is cheaper and performs a bit faster imo. If idle is bad on cold start, but gets better after warmed, MAF. Possibly damaged thinking you can clean ours which you absolutely can NOT clean our MAF as there is no hot wire to clean, it uses a different kind of sensor that is a laser/mirror combo and essentially “listens” to the air volume. Only Maf that will work correctly with our cars is OEM of Delphi, as Delphi used to be Denso and a subsidiary of GM Understanding our unique Maf due to their relationship with Mitsubishi from the diamond star motors days. The Delphi will contain unique features to our Mafs, such as the barometer. OEM first choice for this, only Delphi as a viable option in the aftermarket space.

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk Do not adjust idle speed with BISS screw, IAC will adjust regardless of BISS setting and ECU will still control idle. If someone has messed with the BISS screw, stock BISS setting is from all the way in, one and a half turns out. To test IAC with a multimeter set to resistance 200 ohms and between pins 2-1 and 2-3 resistance must be 28-33 ohms at 20c/68f. Same test needs to be preformed between pins 5-6 and 5-4 pins, same resistance and same ambient temperature. Be aware a bad IAC can pass this test, but it's a helpful indicator of the stepper motors health.

Yeah I almost made the MAF cleaning mistake, had the can in my hand and glad I read it first. It idles fine cold and then does a pulsing vroom-vroom-vroom like it's cammed when it's warmed up even though it's not. Appreciate the write up man, I'll try replacing the iac sometime. I put so much time, work, and money into this thing for like a year straight from day 1, just kinda wanted to enjoy driving it for a while and be done working on it lol. Did a full tune up, fixed coolant leaks, and did the timing belt more than once. Also whole new front end (struts, tie rods, control arms, links, bushings). O2's and iac are next I guess, and figuring out the evap leak at some point. Got an RSX that needs fixin too that I need to get started on...

@@92kbuilds-mn2lk Oh no worries man, the tearstone manuals PDF's are downloaded to my pc and I'm posting this info constantly to the facebook 3g page so a ton of it is memorized at this point. I just like chatting about the car and seeing good examples of it around still. Yours has come a long way and I appreciate you taking us along for the ride, thanks brother.