Відео

Thanks for the great video

5.0 Coyote has poor cooling to the rear cylinders. They burn up valves. I had my heads done with hardened seats and sodium filled valves. Interestingly, on high performance 5.0’s Ford installs an external cooling connection between the rear of the cylinder heads in place of the rear frost plugs. UPR makes a kit, got mine on sale for $149.99.

Good kid that helps out his dad.

doing a coyote swap in my foxbody, just bought a coyote for 500$ with bad compression cylinder 7 what part number are you guys replacing the valves with?

Where did you buy this engine

Is it for sale

Phew just done this for the first time with wd40 saved us hours.

This is very common on 2010-2013 5 liter engines. The valves were made from a crappy material and the edges get sharp and dont seal properly. I have a 2013 mustang GT sitting in my front yard right now with all 8 cylinders around 90 psi at 110k miles. I already went thru this on my 2013 F150 and just replaced the engine. So If you are going to do this job. You NEED to do a new melling high volume oil pump, New Water Pump, thermostat housing, Y hose, and O rings for all coolant hoses that are in good shape. If you have high mileage, you also likely need an alternator. You will also need a new Timing Set and cam phasers From FORD ONLY! (latest available design). Get your heads to a machine shop and have the replace all valves, and do a valve job on the seats and surface the heads and clean everything. I would also change out all the rocker arms, valve springs and lifters and dont forget to change out the filter inside the cams and clean out the oil passages in the cams as well as the engine block and heads. if you have a shop do all this work it very likely could cost more than putting a new engine in it. However, you may have to wait for months to get a new gen 1 coyote from Ford. I got a new engine for my F150 from another supplier because I couldnt wait. If you do that make sure they use only FORD timing components and make sure they change every single valve, spring, valve guide, rocker arm, lifter, everything except the cam. All in my F150 engine was about $6500 and cost $2000 in labor to install in 2021. The Ford dealer here charges $200 and hour for labor. This is at least a 20 hour job so thats a good $8000 in labor alone which is about what it cost me to change the engine.

Please inform us all how this didn’t create a vacuum after the initial burn because I have done this method a lot and if you don’t have an airline on it immediately it will suck that tire so flat it may even come back off the bead …..

My 1.9 BLS has 300,000km on it and is sweaty. I need to degrease everything and run a catch can. EGR is off so no sludge, but everything is oily because of PCV.

The #1 supplier of valves today to the OE manufacturers is SBI and their stuff is coming straight out of China. There are no valve suppliers left in the USA that makes their products from raw materials to finished products. The big names are having many of their products made in China with just enough finish work needed to be able to label it”Made in the USA “. It’s a dirty trick that they are allowed to do to deceive their customers. You can thank the globalist turncoats in Washington for that. Even some cylinder heads are being cast in China and sent to the United States and the manufacturers do just enough finish work to it to brag about it being made in the USA.

So I'm finally getting ready to start on mine again and rewatching this. Did you forget wheel bearing grease?

The best videos have the tools needed to do the job

God, I lusted after this mower in the 50's!

How does it do on slopes?

9:49 Notice that the exhaust valves show progressively more red color when going from front cylinders to back cylinders, I guess indicating increasing temperature when going from front to back.

Did you replace the lifters too?

Can you help me out with the bolts? I’m trying to figure out which ones were TTY.

Does this cause to burn oil too?

I’ve had my 94.5 for 9 years, it’s been parked the last few years. Going over it cleaning it up to diagnose rough idle I found that very screen laying in the valley. 🤔 I’m not sure if it was left out be mechanic I had work on it previously or if I need to remove my pump to check it. I’m elbow deep with electrical work, rodents went to town on the harness and I’m replacing the valve gaskets and harness pigtails as well. 🤷‍♂

I have this same exact issue...167K miles. I have been told the timing chain on the coyote is supposed to be replaced every 70k. Along with the phasers.

I saw this baby in a London department store and I was amazed by it. It was crazily expensive so I could only dream about owning one. It still looks great.

Im surprised to see its that big of an issue, I drive my 14 like I stole it and tow regularly and it just rolled 382,000kms. Doesn't miss a beat and gets good mileage on the highway.

Sweet Power!

My 13 with 155k started missing a few months ago. Jumped into it today. 70 ish psi in cylinder 8. CLT test failed out the intake. Scoped number 8. Intake valve profile seemed a little odd. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to see what an engine is going to cost 😢

4 and 8 have a misfire the shop is talking about a new motor. 190k miles 2011. Maybe just replace the heads and converters?

Thats from it running lean gets to hot trys pull valve through the head

Sounds exactly like mine

In case you are wandering, why cylinder four and cylinder eight valves always tend to fail, is because your catalytic converters are clogging, which then gives you back pressure and the enormous heat you have at those cylinders, since they are all the way in the back and all the other cylinders Heat will go past that cylinder. Your valves tend to burn from that heat. This will normally happen right around 200,000 km.

This past week found out my truck with under 115k miles suffered the same fate (#7 misfire). The shop said they thought they saw scoring in that cyl. Does that mean game over with the block and the head repair in this video won't solve my problem? Thanks.

whats the purpose of fuel from bowl going into the fpr?

Gotta tackle this soon on my 2012 with around the same kms. Thanks for the video.

Does it need to be level when you have the overflow coming out? How do you get the plug back in if it’s not jacked up? Going to try this method tomorrow on an 2012 GTI (mk6). I had a leak (fixed now, long story), so I can’t really measure how much comes out when gauging how much to put back. I was thinking start with 4 quarts and then if nothing comes back out add more. Just want to make sure I have the right amount before putting the plug back on

Man. Great video. I’d say one of the toughest things would be understanding what everything is called. That, and being able to record everything to take off and get it back into the right place and the right order.

I’m trying to get my nut off my track bar. I let a mechanic put my lift on when the Jeep was new 19 years ago and he didn’t use a castle nut. It’s inside the mount so it’s cupped in by the metal. It’s not as tight as yours except the nut directly. I can’t get a deep socket over it either. Imma try this thing. Hope I can use a regulator bar if I need to because I need the hardware.

how do u get enough torque to break loose a rusted nut twice that big with a 10in extension?

I been having rear brake issues that are driving me nuts on ths 2002 beetle. Been through new hoses/rotors/calipers/pads/3 master cylinders and still not right. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the bearings because the wheels don't seem to spin freely even when brake isn't applied. Can't hurt on ths old a car anyway. mine didn't even have caps :O

My Wifes F150 has a misfire on number 7.. Ford dealer quoted a new engine.. They say it's cheaper to put in a new motor than fix existing

Well, now I know what these are used for. I wanted to cuss just watching how badly positioned those nuts were.

I’m curious about the A/C compressor when removing the right side head. Does the A/C compressor have to be completely removed?

Having the exact same problem on my ford mustang 01 all the fuckin bolts are a centimeter apart at the bottom of the power steerin shit is legit impossible

Nice work! I have the same problem in my 2011 Golf Wagon (standard, gas engine), but I will have to leave it to my mechanic. I agree however, it's a *great* car. 220K+ kms on mine. If VW hadn't discontinued it, I'd buy a new one to replace it.

Super cool, making it look easy :D

Great video brotha. I was planning on using new Dealer valves and lapping them in. It’s great to see someone fix something without have to rely on a machine shop.

What size is the socket to remove the axle nut?

Thats NOT propane and is CLEARLY LABELED MAP GAS!

If you broke it down that far just use brake cleaner or something

amazing this helps alot.

I believe the second gen 5.0 doesn’t have those issues

Did you end up replacing the valve stem seals? The guide on the secondary timing chain for the cam phaser on the driver side broke which snapped the chain. I pulled the left head off and now I’m replacing the valves. They aren’t in bad condition like everyone else is having but I just decided to do it since I have 225k miles. Any help from anyone is appreciated.