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Bay Area Retrofit
United States
Приєднався 9 тра 2014
Bay Area Retrofit was founded 25 years ago and to educate the public made these 90+ videos. They look at every aspect of home seismic retrofitting both for the homeowner and the contractor. The author was trained by the best seismic retrofit engineers in the country has been on two national committees that developed seismic retrofit building codes.
Learn how to identify weaknesses in your home and what to do about them. We look at homes with cripple walls and houses without cripple walls. We look at homes built before 1940 and homes built after 1940. We look at hillside homes, and we look at soft-story homes with a living area above a garage. We also look at homes that have every weakness imaginable
Contractors and engineers will enjoy technical topics such as shear wall construction, the impact of wood species, the differences between the three types of bolts, etc.
Learn how to identify weaknesses in your home and what to do about them. We look at homes with cripple walls and houses without cripple walls. We look at homes built before 1940 and homes built after 1940. We look at hillside homes, and we look at soft-story homes with a living area above a garage. We also look at homes that have every weakness imaginable
Contractors and engineers will enjoy technical topics such as shear wall construction, the impact of wood species, the differences between the three types of bolts, etc.
Відео
ABRIDGED EARTHQUAKE RESISTANCE OF STUCCO
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FEMA P-100/ICC 1300 hardware that does not exist.
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FEMA P-1100/ICC 1300 shorturl.at/enqxI is a new seismic retrofit guideline that recommends hardware does not exist making it unaffordable tinyurl.com/ICC-1300-P-1100-Cost
KPIX SPECIAL ON SEISMIC RETROFITTING
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Excellent video
Thanks, it was a lot of work.
Great Video, I just qualified for the Earthquake Brace and Bolt program so I'm trying to learn as much as I could in a short amount of time. This video was better than the ones on the EBB website. I do have a question: For a post and pier foundation, with a masonry perimeter (stone & mortar), can you anchor the mud sill to the stone wall? Or will you it be best to create new cripple walls along the interior of the crawl space? Thank you!
Look at the video on old foundations. Install new foundation segments parallel to the stone and build and brace cripple walls of the new foundations
5:47 Guys Can anyone find a video of table shaking earthquake test in this minute of the video?
I reside in Oregon where we are vulnerable to an expected and extremely powerful earthquake due to the Cascadia subduction zone off our coast. Though our building codes may differ. I found this video to be very informative on how to mitigate home damage from seismic activity
what is the size of the shake table ?
I was wondering- if my house has no cement foundation and is just on rocks on the ground and some post and pier could I just put a foundation in that comes up to the mudsill plate and eliminates the cripple wall? I am in Eugene oregon.
Yes
And I’m in bed, on a second story watching this video in Los Angeles. Sooooothing.
According to Simpson blog, and some documentation there are alternatives to nails, like the SD and SDS screws and depending on the coating can be pressure wood safe. I’m still in my prep phase for some DIY repairs on the cripple studs and adding retro walls. Theese videos are great ice breakers before I start reading my southern Cali fema guide.
This is awesome but what should you do to maximize safety from earthquakes? I live right near one! I was going to put on those Simpson ties so I won’t waste my money on these. I have beams supporting a 1-1/4” plywood floor so now floor joists. What should I do?
You should have 4 x 6 beams on the entire perimeter. Connect those to the sill with Simpson L90s, add URFP, make sure and engineer it with the info on the website, and call it a day. If you could post a YELP review that says some good things about the website and your experience with me it would be appreciated
@@howardcook35 many thanks Howard! I will do!
All this talks about is what NOT TO DO, how about WHAT TO DO ???
You missed the point. THERE IS NOTHING TO DO.
would have helped more if you showed the CORRECT way to do it and not shighting on others work
Once a shear wall is that narrow it becomes a post and is rated at zero.
Is there a minimum length for the shear wall section? Using your example, if I use 10d@2" OC and a 24" wall will it support a 1740lb seismic load?
The test showing the stick construction without plywood sheathing was a little biased. There was no lateral bracing on the building, which is what plywood sheathing provides, of course its gonna rock and move. And also, it didnt even look like that sheetrock was fastened to the wall.
And this, ladies and gentlemen, is why American homes only last about a decade.
I wasn’t always clear in the video whether the retrofit added a plywood/osb panel on the inside or outside of the wall. Would welcome that clarity in a reply if you’re able. I came to the conclusion that generally you depicted interior panels, not exterior. In my case I’m residing a house, so I plan to install on the outside if decide to add.
It does not matter.
Thanks for the info--for homes that don't have cripple walls--just a wall on top of a rim joist on top of a sill plate, how does one secure holddowns? Do we drill through the sole plate down to the mudsill and foundation, bypassing the rim joist? Also, what's the prescribed retrofit of securing the wall to the rim joist?
Why are you putting in hold downs. Do a search on "Overturning" on the website.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 I have a house built in the '50s (southern california) and after installing FRFP plates and shear transfer ties, I noted that our exterior walls only have the stucco cladding for shear resistance. Was considering applying plywood on the inside when we strip the drywall (to do insulation and redo electrical) and build shear walls. Hence the question about hold downs.
@@dmtien You do not need holdowns. Look at the video ua-cam.com/video/HSDJfLSXoaw/v-deo.html Don't waste your money.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 Got it, thanks!
Does the spacing between the blockings matter in the design of the shear wall? Say I have 3 rows of 4' x 8' OSB, does it matter that I have 4' - 4' - 2' going up or 4' - 2' - 4' ? I have a feeling that it does.
Do you mean does it matter if the plywood is vertical or horizontal?
Your a hack trying to justify your past shoddy work. I wouldnt put my dog in a house with no metal post connections. You need to drop your tool bags and sell oranges on the freeway😂
Imagine eating a very delicious hot soup 🍜 at 5:57
Do you know if these can be used on a CMU foundation?
Yes, but only if the CMU is filled with concrete
They're not and I'm trying to see if there's a solution to retrofit to a CMU. thanks@@bayarearetrofit5814
Is fixing the sinking perimeter walls enough or shall we combine attention on both …. I have the case in my crawlspace , the middle piers are kinda sinking not because the soil is softer there but precisely at the bottom of the perimeter foundation walls sinking or tilting cause of water badly diverted around the house foundation walls on which each end of the main girder is sitting. So the support sinking the girder is kind of sliding out of its place n push down on the piers supporting it in the middle .. question is how do you get the perimeter walls issue fixed … I mean once the job of getting the rain water away from the house ? Please give us some guidance there your video threw all my courage down into the deepest spot of the crawl space
The only thing I know is to level the floor. To do it right you need to use a laser. Maybe there is something on UA-cam. I have never done it myself. If you discover anything let me know.
You can use a water level to level the floor. Get 100' of 3/8" or 1/2" vinyl tube and fill it with water. Attach it to two sticks, stakes, or rods. Place one of these against a door frame solidly with the bottom resting on the floor. Do not let it move. Then go around the house and measure the level of water from the floor to the level point. You can then build a map of where your floor is out of level. I will be doing this in my south bay area home built on expansive clay soil in the coming year.
Not helpful at all cause you’re developing above n beyond the wrong done communally done by lots of contractors under guidance of structural engineers but you’re not giving us a clue of how to address failing piers on old houses if not this way … at least if you have it give us an alternative so that we can learn how to address this issue better… thank you
What do you mean by failing?
Extremely helpgul Howard. Thank you.
If a rodent can fit in a hole it will certainly try and if it is big enough they will succeed.
This may be a silly question, but is the air gap created by the plastic piping completely open to the outside? Is that gap an entry point for rodents?
Great video 👏
Thanks for the complement. This is one I did not feel like I did a good job with and delighted you found it useful.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 I think you did great, absolutely love the videos, very insightful for a prospective home owner in the bay area 🙏. Have a wonderful weekend :)
Good idea!
Use extra reverse v support of wood to give more support.
You must experiment in another way. We play with rubber ring, make larger rubber ring same as wood, support the rubber ring from earth to top, put it around wood, then it will not spilte easily. The first floor wood will come on rubber as well as on wood. Make wood home as per as design. Rubber ring will support if ever wood try to fall. Second. Use tyres on ground floor in a zic Zack position use three layers, fill the earth in each layers, tyres will not allow jerking waves to pass. When ever earth quack come, breaking of earth occur in line. Third. If person in poor, they can use tyres for support around wood instead of ring. Fourth. Use rubber sheet below wood. Fifth. Use triangular coupling to support wood. Rubber ring are not available at present in market so use playing rubber ring . Japan faces, land slide,earthquake and tsunami flooding at the same time. Jay bharat.
ua-cam.com/video/XRg-KD82zLY/v-deo.htmlsi=z3W_YeNJ48S6M28U
Use thermocole in between ring. Jay bharat.
Just curious what city building code this is?
International Residential Code
Maybe the supports were installed for support purposes only and not for seismic retrofitting. A lot of houses that were built a long time ago may require additional support over time. Personally I feel the photos were used out of context to make the video, since the drawings or plans do not mention for seismic activity but they also do not mention for structural support. I would think you need some type of shock absorbers or the house to be on rollers to handle serious seismic activity. Posts or no post are not going to save the house from an earthquake. The perimeter of the house would be more important than the middle when it comes to seismic activity.
Please go to bayarearetrofit.com and search for "post to beam" and read the code requirement.
I am very please I could help you. Please subscribe.
It is not old growth redwood. You probably have plywood siding which means you don't need to do anything.
My house was built in 1986. Are the studs in that house considered old growth lumber? Wondering if I need to use 3” spacing for my edge nails on my shear wall.
No, they are not old growth.
Thank you. This is great information for anyone doing a retrofit.
You are welcome. Be sure to subscribe.
Thank you for this information. I have a soft story and split level house in Pismo Beach.
Thanks for this great info! I am looking at doing a soft story retrofit to a 5 unit building in Oakland. This is was exactly the overview of options I was hoping for!
Happy to help.
Hello again. Since I left my thank-you comment 10 days ago I have re-watched this video twice. I was very happy in a couple places to find that when I paused the video & said "that doesn't make sense", you then said the same thing when I started playing it again! Ha-ha. (Also, lining up the vent holes with the foundation bolts is brilliant.) I hope I'm not imposing too much, but I am left with just 2 very basic questions: 1. You've said nothing about OSB, which makes me think that those who extol its virtues may be full of... something; 2. From the 1st diagram @ 2:00 to the one at 22:00, the geometry-center in my brain is wondering if horizontal or vertical orientation of the plywood is significant? My gut says that a horizontal sheet nailed to more studs may be more stable for horizontal shaking. e.g., for simplicity's sake, let's say @ 2:00 there is a vertical 4x8 next to a vertical 3x8... Would 2 horizontal 4x7's be better, worse or indifferent? Many thanks again, Mark
Orientation of the plywood does not matter. OSB is rated the same as plywood.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 Sorry, I was probably overthinking the geometry... As for the latter, the lumber yard explained the confusing Structural I plywood, with Roman numeral not 1, is the way to go for strength over beauty, but they didn't say OSB had the same thing. Many thanks once again!
Ive been doing retrofits in Humboldt area since the earthquakes from 2022.. I came into it with zero experience currently we are on our sixth or seventh one... We have a house that fell 4 1/2" to the rear and 4 inches to the right.. it twisted on the cripple wall essentially... We just successfully hoisted in back in place with a series of 4 ton to 3 ton lever hoists and come alongs... Very proud of this achievement!!
I too am proud of your achievement. Did my website help?
Absolutely I learned alot from your videos! And continue to Everytime I watch. Your content is the standard we should all strive for in these earthquake prone areas! Thank you sir
Earth's gravitational acceleration g=9.8m/s2 (=980Gal)
What magnitude were these "quakes?" The one in Japan was 9.0? Are these 9.0 magnitude?
I dunno! Looks like big ones.
You mentioned, "re-bolting the mud sill after an oversized hole" Are you saying that one should cut out the mud sill and repair and re-bolt? Just so we are clear.. thanks.
No, it means ignore the bolts with the oversized holes because anything over 1/16" is a code violation. Make sure they are oversized. If not you can consider effective and include their capacity in your calculations. Please subscribe to the channel.
I hear you state your conclusion that the examples you show are "useless" and a "complete waste of money", but can you include a link or provide the evidence for what you believe is useful?
Anything that will keep the post up when you kick it, which is just about anything. Please read the information on the webpage at bayarearetrofit.com/post-beam-connection/
Thanks! @@bayarearetrofit5814
Sir, you are a generous GENIOUS! 80) I retired from San Rafael, where even Loma Prieta didn't bother us, to Salem Oregon where this Cascadia Subduction Zone dwarfs Hayward & San Andreas... I can't afford a full-blown retrofit downstairs, but I want to fix whatever glaring oversights the building code still had in 2000 when it was built. You have given me SUCH a greater understanding of the cripple-wall improvements that my only remaining question is whether plywood or OSB is superior... Thanx again!
I am very pleased I could help you.
I'm confused! At 5:24 you say 2.25" long nail - but isn't 10d a 3" nail (the red arrow is on the 10d line)? On the one hand, I understand a shorter nail with "Minimum Nail Penetration in Framing" of 1-5/8" but why 10d then?
It is a 2.25 10d "short" just for shear walls.
My house has stucco over the wood siding, is it still good ?
Look at the table, it says wood or lathe. There should be wire behind the wood.
Thank you
Very usefull material sir greatly appreciated thank you
Glad it was helpful! Please subscribe to the channle.
Outstanding presentation and explanation of how an earthquake attacks a cripple wall and how this weakness is corrected.
Happy to hear that. Please subscribe.