It doesn't really matter. We use 18 inch long rod and drill into the concrete 8-12 inches so there is always some rod sticking up beyond the plate. That is why you see holdowns above the plate and some rod exposed.
Thanks for the info--for homes that don't have cripple walls--just a wall on top of a rim joist on top of a sill plate, how does one secure holddowns? Do we drill through the sole plate down to the mudsill and foundation, bypassing the rim joist? Also, what's the prescribed retrofit of securing the wall to the rim joist?
@@bayarearetrofit5814 I have a house built in the '50s (southern california) and after installing FRFP plates and shear transfer ties, I noted that our exterior walls only have the stucco cladding for shear resistance. Was considering applying plywood on the inside when we strip the drywall (to do insulation and redo electrical) and build shear walls. Hence the question about hold downs.
I understand that the threaded rod should extend 12 inches into the foundation. Even with a rebar cutting bit, my contractor was only able to get 6” down. He epoxied them in. Short of removing them and starting over, is there anything else that can be done? Thank you!
I think you should be OK anyway. I did a lot of research on this . I believe you get full capacity at 6" penetration but as a precaution deeper is better. You can also put the holddown on the other side of the studs.
Thank you! why would you install the Holdowns not close to the sill plate and foundation as possible and let the Thred be exposed like that?
It doesn't really matter. We use 18 inch long rod and drill into the concrete 8-12 inches so there is always some rod sticking up beyond the plate. That is why you see holdowns above the plate and some rod exposed.
Thanks for the info--for homes that don't have cripple walls--just a wall on top of a rim joist on top of a sill plate, how does one secure holddowns? Do we drill through the sole plate down to the mudsill and foundation, bypassing the rim joist? Also, what's the prescribed retrofit of securing the wall to the rim joist?
Why are you putting in hold downs. Do a search on "Overturning" on the website.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 I have a house built in the '50s (southern california) and after installing FRFP plates and shear transfer ties, I noted that our exterior walls only have the stucco cladding for shear resistance. Was considering applying plywood on the inside when we strip the drywall (to do insulation and redo electrical) and build shear walls. Hence the question about hold downs.
@@dmtien You do not need holdowns. Look at the video ua-cam.com/video/HSDJfLSXoaw/v-deo.html Don't waste your money.
@@bayarearetrofit5814 Got it, thanks!
I understand that the threaded rod should extend 12 inches into the foundation. Even with a rebar cutting bit, my contractor was only able to get 6” down. He epoxied them in. Short of removing them and starting over, is there anything else that can be done? Thank you!
I think you should be OK anyway. I did a lot of research on this . I believe you get full capacity at 6" penetration but as a precaution deeper is better. You can also put the holddown on the other side of the studs.
@@infocook4854 thank you! This news just made my day a whole lot better.