Відео

@@machineworld1873 the run-out can be adjusted with 4 screws on the backplate

Can you show me please

@@machineworld1873 see ua-cam.com/video/IN3Rr2qctjU/v-deo.htmlsi=Zm9_31j12HaoMlNG

@@thrasher4219 it's a 2040 engraver with 16mm ballscrews, nema23 steppers and a 800w air cooled spindle. It's packed away in a box, sorry can't show or demo for a while.

@@randomboiiii69420 I bought it as a kit nearly 8yrs ago. It's was about $1250 AUD plus the VFD ~250

@@HM-Projects cool it’s not that expensive if i had a job lol

Wrong, its not a forming process, CUT knurling is s cutting process, quite different and he's doing it all wrong.

I didn't even notice it! It's fairly small, I'll try a shim or bushing if I see any issues. Thanks.

@@ED_T it's probably Zeus or Dorian. They cost upwards of 800 USD. It'd be cheaper to make several versions of mine for different diamond angles and still have enough spare change to buy a few boxes of knurling wheels 😆

@@HM-Projects It's about $1600 plus tooling when purchased new. You can buy a small bench lathe for that money. I like your design, it is very simple and probably as good as the commercial fixed head version Dorian makes.

@@HM-Projects I've found this video that illustrates what I mean by the angles of the wheels ua-cam.com/users/shortse2mI3Yo4tdM what I've also noticed is that the wheels are presented in an orientation so that both wheels actually cut. In your setup the lower wheel is cutting and the upper wheel is forming. No harm in it if it produces the results you are after but something to be aware of.

@@ED_T you may be right, I'll have a look at the approach angle. It can be adjusted by rotating the holder clockwise so the edge is presented first.

@@Aeson008 sorry I don't but flatcam may crash if you're trying to paint a very large area. If you are running it on Linux, I suggest running it from a terminal window. You would get the error details when it crashes. You can try reporting the issue on flatcam GitHub issues.

@@somostodospereira spiral engraving bits from sorotec.de. I use 0.2mm or 0.1mm bits depending on trace widths.

I had to cannibalise some parts for another project, haven't gotten back to replacing it. Life and some health issues got in the way. I will definitely at some point this year, sorry.

If you're interested in my toolchain, it's kicad, flatcam and candle2 for sending the gcode and doing surface mapping. I use a 0.2mm spiral fluted endmill and probe very slowly with it first to create the surface map to compensate and take 35um off the copper in a single pass with some mineral oil to keep the dust in and also the endmill cool.

You're right. I think I also need to rotate on the vertical axis to provide back clearance.

@@HM-Projects You need to go high enough so that the contact area of the knurl matches the helical angle of the knurl you are producing.

@@L98fiero thanks for the advice, I think I have worked it out now. I need to go high or low enough to provide the appropriate clearance so it's cutting only on the leading edge.

Feeding it so that the left edge cuts the knurl and there is a bit of clearance behind it. Yeah, I would just use the pincer form knurls. I'm experimenting here, it may come handy if I have to knurl something larger than my pincer tool can handle. I never had luck with plunge knurling, probably because the wheels I have are pretty crap.

​@@HM-Projects @Xynudu I'm no expert, but I think the point of cut knurling is lower tool pressure as it's cutting, rather than swaging the material. I was interested in this idea as I've looked at just buying the cut knurling wheels in the past and they are about 100x the price of the regular ones, so scrapped that idea! I bought a cheap Chinese two wheel bump knurling tool years ago, and it required so much force I thought it would bend the spindle. I made a Harold Hall clamp knurling tool to use the wheels and it works ok, but the finish is inconsistent, probably because of play in the mechanism. I bought some better quality knurling wheels at a show, but found they were too big. Plan is to remake the clamp tool with the better wheels, unless HM here figures out this system, so I'll be following your progress. 👍👍

@@ollysworkshop I have a few improvments in mind, rigidity for one. I might switch the screw and brass bushing for a hardened pin. The rotational axis of the tool aligned with the center of the wheel, to avoid adjusting the height of the tool at each pass.

@@HM-Projects Looking at the video it appeared to be manual feed (horizontal axis) as the progression was not uniform as you would expect with power feed. You can easily use a pincer knurl as a push knurl, no issue. I do this regularly for large round stock. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu Yes, I was feeding it manually. I wasn't sure of what I was doing and I'm mostly doing this as a learning exercise. I came across an article a while back, thebloughs.net/series/cut-knurling-tool/ and wanted to build it but it's a lot of work. I want to understand the process before I decide to sink more time into something like that.

It looks like you could be right about the spindle or spindle bearings being the issue. I tried it with a ER collet chuck and got about 0.04mm TIR at 150mm from the chuck and about 240mm from the spindle. This is something I did not notice before, so perhaps something got damaged 🤷‍♂ It might be good enough for now, I will look at purchasing a MT4 alignment bar to verify this but I suspect I'll see the same issue. Tightening the preload nut did not fix the issue, so could be an expensive repair if I want to fix it :|

Sorry, I can't understand Russian and Google translate output doesn't make sense to me.

I'll have to find where the issue is coming from first. I suspect the chuck jaws, I'll update when I track it down.

Thanks Michel, the never ending search for microns continues 😂

No plans to at this stage, but all the hardware and firmware files are available on GitHub if you would like to build one. I know a few that watch my videos have built their own versions.

If you're after an off the shelf controller, I'd recommend elsv4 pro sold by rocketronics.de

I think I didn't add it because the finish pass cleans up. Saves the extra movement and backlash compensation. Not hard to add it though.

Thanks. At the moment it's low risk since the motor is ~600w 3ph but I'll keep that in mind if I upgrade it to a 1.5kw one.

Indeed, I'm glad to be able to push the SFM to what the cut-off blade can handle without issues.

😂 yes, I have to get used to it

Indeed, it also helps with the chip evacuation in deeper grooving or parting. I generally use the tool upside down for parts over 25mm OD but the lathe doesn't have enough rigidity and power to handle anything over 40mm dia. Bandsaw is less trouble 😆

Haha unlikely, 3mm of HSS is surprisingly very rigid and it's less brittle than carbide. More forgiving if I stall the motor feeding it aggressively. This will probably last me a lifetime and grinding the edge only took a few minutes on the pedestal grinder.

I wanted to see where the breaking point is on the lathe. 80mm OD, the primary hdt5 belt from the motor to the synchronisation pulley broke, the 3mm blade still in one piece 😂