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That is a fantastic idea! Thank you so much. I’m going to look into that now. Thanks for watching!

They are such a pain. I need an outdoor cat lol Thanks for watching!

Was the little drain clogged with gunk? If it was just wait a week or two and see if when the fridge goes into defrost mode the water drains out. Thanks for watching!

Great work! I’m so glad it helped you out. You should be proud of getting it done yourself. Thanks for watching!

I wish I knew. Sadly, it seems like a company that has lost interest in a quality product

@@dadfixdit like I wanna know my dpi BC my mouse has buttons on it which change it and Its small enough to not notice but big enough to mess up my aim and I wanna change the keybinds in the mouse

Thanks for the feedback! So there are a few things to consider. A 1 HP pump should be pulling about 746 Watts during normal run. During startup you can probably expect it to surge to 1100 to maybe even 1300 watts (possibly more) but that’s only briefly. The Delta 2 has a rating of 1024 Wh which means if your pump ran (not including startup and zero losses internal to the unit- which doesn’t happen) it would be able to run it continuously for 1.3 hours. Now you have to take into account your startup surge and the losses internal to the EcoFlow for running the inverter and that prolly brings it down to 1.1 hrs. The next question to ask is how long does the pump take to cycle and during a big rain event how many cycles per hour will it run? If it only runs for 30 seconds and 10 times per hour that’s just 5 minutes per hour over 8 hours that would be 40 minutes of total run. Then add in the losses mentioned earlier and you’re probably at 50 minutes which should still be somewhat safe. I hope this all makes sense. Feel free to ask any more questions. I’m more than happy to help.

@@dadfixdit i appreciate the comment and information shared. I have contacted Drummond the person i talked to doesnt seem to know the specifics as well… or not confident with it at all. They did mentioned the startup surge is 13amps which would be 1,560 watts which Delta 2 would be able to handle… but they also said the running wattage is 1200 watts (120v x 10amp) which I find odd and doesn’t sound right. I’d understand if it was in that 750-800 watt range.

@@immanuelreyes4580 yeah running wattage seems a little high but maybe its more than 1 HP. It should have a nameplate right on it that gives a lot of those details. But i think the Delta 2 would be fine. You could at least try it then worst case scenario you buy one of the add on batteries to expand its capacity. I know it’s a lot of $ but the peace of mind is invaluable.

@@dadfixdit I just purchased one Delta 2 to try it out. If it gives me an hour of usage. I may just purchased another one and connect it together.

I hope it saves you a ton of time. Let me know how it works for you. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!

You’re very welcome. I think it’s a pretty good solution. Power outages seem to be more regular these days so a little peace of mind is worth it. Make sure you check out the first video too. Thanks for watching!

Oh man that stinks, I’m sorry it didn’t work for you. Logitech needs to get its act together. I hope you can find a solution. Oh and you tried running it as an administrator right? Thanks for watching!

I hope you saw my response to your question that you asked on the other video.

Check and make sure there isn’t an Allen screw in the open spot towards the wall. Often if there is an opening there is a set screw. Often there is definitely no set screw then you should be able to twist it off in the counterclockwise direction. If it doesn’t budge don’t force it. Look again for a set screw. Let me know how you make out.

@@dadfixdit the plate that the tubspout sits has a prong sticking out over the copper pipe. It does not move with a screw driver. There is no allen wrench screw to get hold of. The spout will not turn. Any ideas? This is a 25 yr. old tub and not tile, just an average tub and shower.

@@dadfixdit I think it is just hard to turn because of build up of mineral deposits. The open notch at the base of the spout doesn't have a function, maybe for leaks, I guess. I will have to keep working on loosening the spout on the threads. Thanks for your help.

@@sheri023 you’re welcome. Sorry I wasn’t more help. You can try spraying some vinegar on it and letting it soak in

@@dadfixdit thanks, I will try that directing it at the front of the spout.

I didn’t unplug it in the middle of the pump cycling but I don’t think it would present an issue. It switches over pretty fast. Check out my follow up video (link in the description). The motor would still be turning when it switches over to strictly battery. All that to say, I don’t see it presenting any kind of problem. Thanks for watching!

@@dadfixdit thanks for the information and video.

I’m so happy to hear it helped you out! Wow that’s a lot of ice lol. Don’t forget to check it once year to make sure it isn’t clogged again. Thanks so much for watching!

You are very welcome. I hope the unit serves you well. I’m still very happy with mine. Thanks for watching!

lol it is a GE appliance so ya never know. My GE fridge door just broke tonight 😭. Anyway, I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching!

😊 glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

I think typically there is a delay. I’m guessing it’s until the system begins producing cold air. If it never kicks on you might want to just check your connections.

You are very welcome. Sorry that the video was a little blurry when looking at the settings. Hoping to continually improve the quality here. But anyway, let me know how you make out with the EcoFlow and thanks again for the suggestion!

Maybe a little expensive but that would definitely keep things alive. Thanks for your comment and input, it’s a good idea! Thanks for watching!

Lol, well I’m glad you are brave enough to attempt the repair- go you! Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching!

Thanks and thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you! I hope it helped you. Thanks for watching!

So happy to hear that it helped you fix the fridge! You should be proud of getting it done yourself! Thanks for watching.

😂 thanks and thanks for watching!

Sometimes it can be tough to get. You’ll have to do a deep dive on the web. Often a kind soul will post them on a repair forum. I tend to look for a manual by searching for the first portion of the model # (often the later letters and numbers indicate material and color) with the term “service manual” and can usually find them after a while. I wish it was easier. Good luck and thanks for watching! Let me know if you can find it. Often there are some diagnostic menus you can get into with that manual as well which prove super helpful.

@@grmrbrts5123 if it’s totally frozen I would spray some wd40 on it and let it sit for a few hours. Then try to move it and separate the pull from the diverter with a screwdriver, replace the diverter and clean the channel that the diverter rides up and down in. I’m guessing you have hard water. Thanks for watching!

@@dadfixdit Thanks for the quick reply. I think i might just replace the whole thing anyways. it looks really bad in there when i shine a light in it.

@@grmrbrts5123 yeah, can’t go wrong for like 10 bucks! Let me k in how it goes.

@dadfixdit already done. Went fine. Just had to grind down the length of the spout to get a tighter fit. Wouldn't have threaded on to the end had I not grinded half an inch off the back.

@@hl2601 oh bummer I’m sorry it doesn’t work. Is it one of those valves where you have to stick the part of the cover in at an angle to hold the valve open? If it is that type you can Inter’s the cover then vacuum it. Thanks for watching!

@@dadfixdit I can't stick something through the valve. I need to squeeze it. I think it then creates holes for the air to flow. I used the flat head of my shop vac and I squeezed the valve. It worked well enough. At least, it was faster than applying pressure on the inflatable. Thanks for the reply and the video as it gave the basic idea.

😂

It should heat up relatively quickly depending on which cycle you choose. If you put it on sanitary it should be hot about 10-15 minutes into the wash cycle.

Bummer sorry. It only seems to work with certain windows 10 configurations. Thanks for watching and I hope you can find a solution to that dreaded G-Hub software.

Hi, yes, in app you config ecoflow to stay always On and to keep AC On all the time. In my case with 4 pump runs per hour it survived for full 3 days without city power or 2.5h in not stop pumping mode when we had Debby earlier last week. Read manual - it is all straight forward - not a rocket science. However, once a month you need to run ecoflow without city power for a few minutes to help to calibrate batteries. And one suggestion, do not go anything smaller than Ecoflow River 2 Pro. You even can extend Ecoflow running time by connecting external regular battery, but it could take 100wt per h from external battery only, which is not bad if you don't need it to run none stop for hours.

This is great info, thanks for posting it. I’m still learning my unit too. I’m glad it worked so well for you!

You’ve given me a good idea and I’m going to try and make a follow up video soon. So I did read the manual and for UPS/EPS mode it does say to basically just set it up the same way I did in this video. There is no specific setting in the app. One thing I did find is that, and this is yet to be verified, but that if something is a constant load, say 100w, it will run off the grid then switch when you lose power but since something like a sump pump is only an occasional load it won’t feed through the grid all the time. I’m going to try to prove this out and make a video on the settings (like AC always on, EcoFlow power always on etc). Thanks for watching. Oh and btw, we had an outage last week and I plugged my fridge and separate freezer into it because I didn’t want to start my generator. I’d run them both for a few hours at a time and it made it through the 12 hour outage and kept all the food just fine! Thanks for watching!

@dadfixdit, you certainly possess remarkable talent, creativity, and critical thinking skills. I encourage you to continue creating videos. I extend my best wishes for your continued success.

@@yuriykorenyak2351 wow thank you so much. That means more than you know! I truly appreciate the feedback and I will do my best.

Razer is much more solid in my opinion too. Feels like Logi just doesn’t care anymore. I’m glad it worked for you! Thanks for watching.

Sadly the fix is only temporary and has to be redone every once and a while. And I have to end all the Logitech processes in Task Manager as well, then close and restart Windows Media Player, so it's become a bit more involved. Still better than nothing though. And I'm one of the oddballs who still uses WMP as my main music player for its simplicity 😆

@@Acheron.426 it’s so annoying.

Hmmm that still doesn’t sound hot enough to me. If you run a sanitary cycle with heated dry, at the end of the cycle while it’s drying you shouldn’t be able to hold the dishes because they are so hot. So there are some neat diagnostics you can run if you do a little digging. Google your dishwashers part # and “service manual”. You should be able to find out how to enter test mode and kick on the heater without running a cycle to ensure that it works. Let me know how you make out.

You are so very welcome! I’m so thankful the video helped you. You should be proud of yourself for fixing it too! Thanks for watching!

You are so very welcome! I’m so happy that it helped you out. Thanks for watching and the positive feedback!

@@billshadel8550 GE has gone too long on just its established reputation. It’s truly a shame. They don’t seem to innovate any more and are happy with producing a mediocre product. I hope you are able to get this fixed. Keep me posted and thanks for watching!

@@fatpeacock9064 Yeah it’s really terrible. I’m so happy this worked for you. Thanks for watching!

It shouldn’t, but if you have a bottom ice maker the cause of your ice accumulation could be an issue with the ice maker supply line which would in turn cause problems there. You would need to verify the lines going to the ice maker and also make sure nothing is obstructing the little fill spout or that no ice has accumulated on it.

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

Wasn’t $90 when I bought it 20 years ago lol. I love my Snap-on stuff but could never justify buying it today. Thanks for watching!

Very welcome, I hope it helped!

Great job! So happy you were able to get it fixed. Just remember to check that drain once a year or so. Thanks for watching!

So happy to hear that it helped. White vinegar is great and you can also get citric acid powder pretty cheap on Amazon and that cleans really well too. Thanks for watching and keep on fixing!

You’re very welcome! Let me know if you end up getting it working. Thanks for watching!

@@dadfixdit yes it works perfectly now. Underneath a base plate on the bottom the pipe to the top rack had become disconnected. Mine doesn’t have a gasket like yours, just a plastic connection. Didn’t think to check that. All reconnected and screwed back down and now it’s great. Thanks.

@@ArcGamingHD Great job! I’m so glad you were able to get it fixed!

Thank you much! Let me know what you find when you take a look at the drain. Thanks for watching!

@@dadfixdit It was a clogged black rubber drain valve that blocked the drain tube. I was able to clean it and reinstall. It did take a couple of hours since the evaporator coils, and the drain system were solid ice. Once I got rid of all the ice, ran a few cups of hot water threw the system to make sure is was clear, it all went back together. No parts needed. Just my time. Now I will put that on the preventive maintenance list about once a year. This is a 12 year old refrigerator that has never had that valve cleaned. BTW it is a Kitchenaid model - here is what I wrote for my neighbors who have the same model. If you have a KitchenAid French Door - bottom freezer drawer - Model KFIS20XVMS11, you may have found water dripping on the floor from the freezer drawer on occasion. When you look into the freezer there is no apparent source of water - just a sheet of ice on the floor of the compartment. There are apparently a couple of possible sources. One being a failed drawer gasket allowing humid air into the freezer causing frost and ice. I now know what a more common cause of the ice buildup and water leak is. It is caused by a plugged freezer evaporator coil and fan drain system - located behind a panel in the back of your freezer drawer. Also the problem drain pipe and rubber valve that drains into an evaporator pan in the bottom of your refrigerator - access panel at the back an bottom of the unit. When your freezer goes into defrost mode it melts accumulated frost and ice on the evaporator coils and the water is supposed to drain (drip) through the pipe rubber drip valve where it will just evaporate into the air. When that drain, pipe, and/or rubber drip valve get clogged the water stay in the drain, freezes when the defrost cycle ends and builds up. All it should take to solve the problem is to remove the lower back panel of your refrigerator (1/4” nut driver), hand remove the gray drip slide/tube, pull off, the rubber drip valve from the pipe and clean it. That is all you have to do as “preventive maintenance”. Put it back together and you are good to go. A 20 minute job. If however. you have gotten to the point where the pipe and system has already been blocked with ice, then you will have to get the accumulated ice out. One option is to just turn off the refrigerator freezer for sever hours and let it melt. Or you can do what I did and take the freezer compartment apart to clean it and remove all the ice. That was a 2 hour job with a hair dryer. Here are some photos that help explain the process. Now I know way more about the operation of a refrigerator/freezer than I ever wanted. But I also don’t need to buy a new one or pay for a couple of hours of a repair person.