Відео

Thanks, glad to hear it helped. Good idea using the zip tie.

Thanks for watching.

I generally don't disconnect the battery when changing spark plugs.

@@brentworksgarage thanks! I hadn't before but wasn't sure if it was bad

Can't say I've ever run into that issue. Replaced alot of batteries over time and never once had issues with infotainment or key fob lock up or not working afterwards. Only have to reset clock and radio pre-sets. 😉

I can't say I've heard of that before. That would be a pain if your battery died on the road, and needed to be replaced.

I think you do if your vehicle has i-stop. This CX-3 does not have i-stop, so I did not have to initialize anything. There should be videos out there showing the process.

Already had a ratchet, but the spark plug socket was about $15, and the spark plugs themselves were $50 at the time. So around $65. Canadian $$$.

No. Different part numbers between the front and rears. Also different part numbers based on where the Mazda 3 was assembled. :(

Not sure what exactly you are referring to. The brake pad guide plates/clips (that the ears of the brake pad itself sit in) are required. The squealer usually goes on the inner pad, usually required as well. The brake shims are on the back of the pads should also be used.

Not a bad idea to do that. Just ensure you have added the correct amount of oil (check oil level when the car is on level ground). Thanks for watching.

Glad to hear. Thanks for watching.

Wow! Thanks for the super compliment. Really appreciate that. Will be posting in the future. All the best.

Thank you!

Thanks for watching!

I agree. Should be easily accessible from the engine bay. Thanks for watching.

@@brentworksgarage It looks like the driver's one can be replaced by removing the air filter box. One screw and one nut to remove. I haven't tried it....

@@grendels_arm I think there are still obstacles in the way. The owner's manual states (page 6-49) to do it the way shown in the video. Thanks for watching.

I just replaced mine and tried to go through the top after getting the airbox filter out of the way for sport. You can get to the low beam light- successfully replaced that one previously through the top with some somewhat painful squishing of your hand, but the side marker light's just to far in there. Gotta go through the wheel well for this one!

@@keithdaedalius7627 Thanks for verifying, and watching. 😉

It is optional. If you do want to use it, put a small amount on the inside of the spark plug boot. Use something like a Q-Tip to apply.

Check out 4:38 of the video. You'll want to Turn the piston back in, DO NOT push it back. The rears must be turned back in. Make sure your parking brake is off prior. Could try opening the brake bleeder then turn the piston back into the caliper. Note that you may need to bleed the brakes after this. Also make sure the indents/grooves on the brake piston are at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. Image at 4:38. Good luck.

@@brentworksgarage wo.. I'm pretty sure every other videos about changing rotor and/or callipers on mazda 3 2017-2018 insists on NOT turning the piston.. It must be push in

​@@patricegamache2114 That would be for the cars equipped with the Electronic Parking Brake. You are correct for those EPB calipers, they need to be pushed back. They also need to be placed in maintenance mode prior to pushing the piston back. The mechanical park brake (hand brake) models need to be turned. Thanks for your comment... I wasn't aware this generation had the Electronic Park Brake. -The EPB appears to have been added as an option in the 2017 model year.

Excellent. Glad to hear.

Service manual states 12-14 ft-lbs (15-20 Nm).

@@brentworksgarage I wouldn't go past 15 NM buddy.

@@taichihead42 Agreed. I'd stay on the lower side of those specs.

Certified brand available at Canadian Tire. Part number 10-3503-2. CCA 525, CA: 645 Group size is 35. Hope this helps!

I wouldn't say you have to pump the brakes after putting the cap back on the reservoir, but it isn't a bad idea to pump them a few times. I've checked my fluid in the past (cap removed and reinstalled) and haven't pumped the brakes, and didn't have any issues. I've never lubed the brake piston itself. That would mean you'd have to remove the boot or somehow get the lubricant past the boot. I'd worry about ripping the boot. If I'm understanding your question properly that is. Putting some lubricant on the face of the piston (where it touches the back of the brake pad) can be done to reduce noises. Thank you for the kind words. Much appreciated.

Was it for sure working prior to replacing the pads? There was a recall (#1217F) for the park brake. I am in a similar situation where my pass. side doesn't work. Will have a video showing how to replace caliper in the future (hopefully). You didn't disconnect the park brake cable from the caliper while replacing the pads did you? What was your method of getting the piston back into the caliper? Rear calipers need to be turned back into the caliper (if electronic park brake then pushing in only, no turning). Both sides are not working with park brake?

@@brentworksgarage Thanks for the reply, it was working fine before the change, park brake cable is still working, I put the piston back in the caliper by pressing it (it isn't electronic), I didn't understand what should be turned?

@@uchabidzinashvili6927 Oh I see. At the 4:40 mark of the video I put text that the piston should be turned back. If it was really tough to push back you might have broken the parking brake mechanism. Is your car an automatic or manual transmission? Not that it makes much of a difference now. Could take it to the local shop and get their opinion on it. Check the wrecking yards for your year of Mazda to get a replacement caliper (or buy new). Make sure to search for the correct country of origin as brake parts differ from Japan and Mexico.

@@brentworksgarage Do you think the caliper is damaged? I don't want to have to buy a new one but it's an automatic and I really need a handbrake, it's made in Mexico and I hope I can get it, thank you very much

@@uchabidzinashvili6927 The brakes should work fine for normal driving operation, but I think you may have broken the internals for the parking brake. I think that is what someone did to my brakes on one side (other side still holds the car). Luckily you have an auto transmission so the transmission will hold the car, but it would be nice to have all parts working as they should. Check RockAuto.com or local wrecking yards for a replacement. In your case Mexican made Mazda3. I am not sure if there is a rebuild kit for the parking brake assembly. Good luck.

My particular CX-5 was built in Japan and sent over to North America. Should work with yours as well. Try putting it in maintenance mode first, and going from there.

I pressed 5 times on starter switch ,but you only.pressed 3 times

@@progress-l6q Need to have the ignition on (2 presses), then with the gas pedal pushed to the floor AND holding the park brake button down, press the ignition 3 times. So yes, 5 times total does make sense. 0:12 second mark in the video shows this. Good luck.

Sorry to hear, but it states within the first 5 seconds that vehicle must be put in Maintenance Mode first, before changing the rear brakes. Then I show how it is done.

@@brentworksgarage Yup, for about 2 seconds. It's MY fault I missed it, I'm just saying it is a major part of the job and should be emphasized. I didn't catch it.

Suggestion ... Watch the video, then rewatch the video again several times, or as needed whenever you are attempting to do the same. Overall straight forward video. Definitely helped me DIY and save me some money.

how did you fix it?

@@CA_Productions827 Bought new calipers.

If you have to move the vehicle (ie turn it around in your garage so it is easier to work on), I would go through the process take it out of service mode, move the vehicle and then put it back in service mode again. If car doesn't need to be moved then just go ahead and do the other side while in maintenance mode.