Відео

I have a 94 dodge ram 2wd with a 5.9 magnum. I want to swap it into an 81 c10. I’m fine with going carb route. Will that be possible?

Keep these videos coming man...doing a similar build

Stock magnum cams have 116 lsa. Currently having one reground as close to 260/268 purple shaft specs as they can get.

My 2000 ram has a distributor on the 5.9 magnum

I’ve been looking for some long tubes for my 5.9 magnum. Where you get yours ?

ok now do a points distributor and carb with a 90's magnum lol.

I realy enjoy your video updates im considering the hughes intake kit .. remove that dang kegger lol.. just for me in Canada its very expensive by time i pay duty an shipping an taxes bout 1100 bucks all said an done .. so i really like to know how much of difference it really makes before i spend .. plus i wanna get the cam from them too thats is same as yours cam.. I really like your dash too looks sweet !! Well done 👍

Where do I find the intakes that are knock off

Can you provide the part number of your ICU..??..thanks

Whats the intake part number?

Just reverse the carb to use the cable, unless the fuel lines are short and supposed to be on the right side. Also unless that carb for some reason isn't symmetrical to be reversed. Oh well just my 2 cents maybe..

I've had them all , and I like my 440s lots of torture with a stock motor and gets good gas mileage, and will run a cupple hundred thousand miles.

Stock magnum head flows around 217 cfm i believe , check out charles servedio he'll show ya how to port these heads to flow 270+. Ive also got the 20-746-9 cam in my magnum and it chops pretty good with only a 114 lsa. What converter ya runnin ?

Its looking good , really coming along.. is this a new cam you have in this engine from hughes or is it the same came from hughes you have had it in ? Love the chop plus some extra horsepower be nice.. do you have the cam specs of the cam your running in it now ?

I have a cammed thermoquad 5.9 magnum in my 51 dodge kingsway , I was running 3.73 and a 3400 stall , it really hooks up but I think it would even be better with a 2800 .

Atta boy don't let fear and common sense hold your back 😁👍

Sounds good

Hey bro!! I follow ya with every vidoe.. i appreciate your input and knowledge!! I have the same throttle body only it factory as my truck is a third gen 5.9 magnum .. but very much trying to decide if i seao intake an go to 4 barrel of stay with fuel imjection.. anyways .. you do very good informational vidoes etc. 👌👍 happy thanks giving too by the way !! 💯👍✅

Rev limiter

The off brand airgaps can work with the AC you have to cut part of the bracket for the ac and only use 3 bolts to hold it in place.

How much boost you plannin on ?

Im really enjoyin your videos , im interested to see an know how you like the new intake kit from hughes ??! As i seriously considering buying the same kit but will cost me bit more as i from Ontario Canada .. i have 2002 dodge ram 2wd regular cab short box third gen and has the kegger and id like to delete the kegger an go with that hughes intake .. any info an such you can give me i appreciate.. ive got headers an decent cam an such already in it .. with 392 gears came in the truck new an i got the 46re already built with torque converter to match cam specs an stage 2 shift kit an all.. an is tuned by Hp tuners as well.. Ive taken lotta weight outa it but still has stock interior.. runs well in quarter mile ,jus not happy with this kegger . Keep them videos coming let me kniw on the intake what ya think of it !! Cheers man 👍

I have an 86 d150 as well, mine is completely stock. I'd like to get rid of the factory lean burn system. Do you have experience with the proform mopar electronic ignition kits? I see a lot of hate on them, but I'm just trying to get away from the factory computer. I would also like to replace the 2bbl carb and intake with a 4bbl. Do you have a suggestion for the most economical way to do this? I've been recommended to use edelbrock but maybe there's a better option? I'm not trying to race my pickup, just want to increase reliability and add a bit of power. Thanks for your videos, I subscribed

N.C. ?

I have a 88 Dakota. The biggest problem I have is the poor design radiator in them. It gets warm and that top plastic tank falls apart. Wish they had more options for that.

As long as you get away from that ridicules power robbing barrel keg stock manifold it will make way more power . I'm running a 360 magnum , shorty headers , comp cam , amazon air gap , 27 thou head gaskets topped of with a thermoquad from a 440 and it just rocks . I've been beating it for 4 years now and never missed a beat .

Hello "RedlineMopar" I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?

That was an OUTSTANDING analysis and commentary. We have a G3 Hemi swap project going on right now on our 68 Barracuda. You hit the highlights and nailed it on the comparisons.

Put the 340 back in the demon, make it right

440 in the Demon(supercharged); 360(twin turbos) in the truck...imho! 😁🤪😎

Love the custom dash, it looks great! If you made 259 at the wheel then its likely making somewhere around 340-370 at the crank! The old racer guys I bought my Satellite from told me that most old school V8 automatic cars with solid rear axles lose about 75-100 HP from the crank to the wheels and this is often true. I can't remember if you are running that big 4 speed overdrive trans but it soaks up a lot of power on the way to the wheels. Way more than my little 904 Torqueflite. Tim at Hughes Engines also told me my combo with the SER1418ALN10 cam should be good for about 400-430 at the crank. I also blew both head gaskets at once on my 5.9 running too much timing very shortly after putting it in the car. I had just beat one of those little Mercedes AMG coupes by a few car lengths and it made a huge BOOM sound when I let off the gas like a shotgun. After that it huffed like someone playing a jug in an old bluegrass band. I drove it back home and it took me about a week to put new Fel Pro gaskets on it and I just sanded down the rough spots where the gaskets blew without even bothering to surface them and its been running great for years since then (knock on wood).

Got any updates for us on the truck? Hope things are going well!

What did you use for motor mounts? I’m currently in the process

Well I would guess that you didn't go with Hemi because of cost I mean you could build a few 360s for the cost of a Hemi

I put big cam in a 5.9 years ago for mud truck. It's a snappy engine

I am currently building a 99 360 magnum for my 86 d150 and I’ve been reading where the driver side engine mount it different than the la blocks. How or what did you do to get yours to fit? Thank you very much.

What distributor are you running? I had mine all the way apart in one of my last vids and it just had two wires going to the magnetic pickup. Super simple to hook up to MSD or a Mopar Performace ignition box.

Man I'm excited to see that thing running in there! It looks great and the cam sounds awesome! Great work dude! Looks like you may need an accelerator pump adjustment though, so I would hold off on buying new discharge nozzles until you try that. Also I usually only buy discharge nozzles/squirters one at a time from ebay vendors to save cash. The accelerator pump adjustment is on that little spring loaded arm on the driver side front of the carb. Put little wrenches on the top and bottom of the threaded rod that runs through the spring. Tighten for less fuel, loosen for more. A backfire usually but not always means you have too little pump shot, and a stumble/hesitation usually means you have too much pump shot, especially when accompanied by a puff of black smoke. Its pretty common for a Holley to have just enough pump shot to break the tire loose a little bit but still not be squirting all the motor wants so don't be afraid to try a little more pump shot after you get good throttle response. I can turn my pump shot down so far without a hesitation in my Satellite that it won't even break the tires loose so there is A TON of hidden performance to be found in accel pump tuning. Most people just increase pump shot until they get a hesitation or black smoke and then back it off a bit and this works right 9 times out of 10. Be careful to make small adjustments though, do small quarter turns and take mental notes of the amount you moved it in case you need to go back. Also the power valve does affect WOT performance but its main function is to improve part throttle response, economy and drivability and the standard 6.5 is usually right for a majority of combinations. Some hardcore racers who only drive down the track and the staging lanes remove the power valve, plug the hole and run bigger jets to compensate for the lack of the power valve and just let it idle super rich with poor part throttle drivability. I'm definitely not suggesting anything like that though. Good thing is you have a vacuum secondary carb instead of a puddle dumper I mean a double pumper though, the vacuum secondaries are WAY less headache to tune. Vacuum secondary is definitely the way to go on the street too, especially with an automatic. The general rule for Holley vacuum secondary tuning is the secondaries aren't supposed to open below 2000 RPM even with the lightest spring so if your issue is below 2000 RPM its almost definitely an accelerator pump issue. If a hesitation or backfire occurs above 2000 RPM it could be caused by the secondaries or the accel pump or both together. After porting my carb a bit I developed a problem with a backfire at WOT above 2000 RPM and after messing with the accel pump tune for literally months and even trying 3 different power valves I came across the Holley tuning info about tuning above/below 2000 RPM and realized that I needed to tune the secondaries and not the primaries. I ended up ordering a rear metering block conversion kit like you and a jet kit and a AFR gauge all of which I have yet to install. Not sure if you've seen my latest vids but I just took the car to the 1/8 mile for the first time since the Magnum swap and ran 8.80s beating a nitrous 4.6 Mustang twice. I have a new vid up about that and some new vids about my friends 76 D100 if you haven't seen those. Oh and by the way, if you put the trucks old small block timing cover on the Magnum you can run the original belts and accessories on the new motor like I'm doing. You can even run your old valve covers too, my Magnum is almost perfectly disguised as an LA small block. Only big time Mopar guys notice the intake bolt pattern and some other minor differences.

Good vid man, looks like the build is coming along great! Several factors make the Magnum engines great for a performance build. First of all they have fancy lightweight alloy pistons that are made of the same material as most Keith Black pistons. More importantly they have the best flowing factory small block Mopar heads ever made which flow even better than the old 340 heads everyone looks for, and they also have the hydraulic roller cam that you mentioned in the video. As you said they bolt right up in place of an old small block with minimal modifications too. Their biggest downfalls are the crappy factory aluminum intake and 2 barrel EFI setup that runs out of breath at about 3500 RPM and the weak factory valve springs that can't handle much lift or RPM and the pushrod clearance issues that prevent us from running a lot of lift. Awesome looking Challenger there in the background by the way!

Barbie's Abortion "440 Magnum" ua-cam.com/video/hHkZF_XghJw/v-deo.html