Відео

Thank you for this video

You suck at this bud

I have the same exact generator and same L14-30 plug with the 4 plugs, my question is do I run it on 120v or 240V ?

Beware!! If car has a bad module, with parasitic deaw! It will continue doing it! Even with this

I use these on ALL my vehicles living in milwaukee , exp my 92 cappuccino that doesn't even have a neutral safety switch from factory so it just can be push started

Tell me if when you can,. I wanted to buy one, but they said something about amps and I backed off, like the reg ford expedition 99, ha ga green, lol, can I get one for my battery ?

Sounds like you gave a mask on, lol

Hey brother this question is about the starter solenoid, I figured you would be able to answer my question. My positive cable from battery to starter solenoid is heating up and not starting the vehicle. Is this a bad ground?

Thank you for the video I like to know What is part number for the fitting, thanks

Thanks for the testing ideas very helpful got mine figured out to it was a bad regulator

Can't hear much difference

did it throw a code after you put it?

Oberbrunner Vista

Did this an my car won't even start or turn on at all. Might have shorted the battery

Dude. I was just in the side of the road and something between last week and today happened in my 85 Ford F250 w 460 charging system. It’s possible my ignition didn’t close all the way and drained my battery. I tested battery and it was 8. I had to use jump box. Started and checked voltage. It was around 12.5. Started to drive to town to put a little charge and go buy a battery. Truck lost power on the way and that’s that. Charging the battery now, hopefully it takes the charge. I then will do your voltage regulator test to see if it’s that or the alternator. Thanks for posting this man. I asked the parts store if there was a way to do this and they said nope!

Where is the other end of the hot wire going to? the fuse box?

For your seat switches that are prone to short out and possibly cause spark or a fire. If you haven't already just take the switches apart as best you can, and then upon reassembly spray a decent amount of WD-40 in the switch around the switch and the wiring in order to prevent the positive terminal of the switch to turn green from moisture, which could potentially cause I don't intentional short to ground. I find WD-40 works best because of its water displacement properties. Hence the name WD on the 40th try of creating this spray lubricant was success. It'll also help if you spray some underneath the seat on the seat rail guides or use some silicone grease this will decrease the resistance which will keep the motor from overheating and/or burning out. The same switches are utilized on your door panels. Just repeat for all of your toggle switches with WD-40 and you should never have anymore issues. As for your vacuum lines and any other rubber components within the edging department, there's a product that goes by the name if I'm remembering correctly ATP - 200 or something very similar to that name it's originally meant for transmission seals and O-rings has a rejuvenation additive that works extremely well for the engine and power steering as well. If you do have any rear, main seal or front seal leaks or transmission, power, steering, etc. it will help recondition the vacuum hoses and any other rubber components to like new condition as long as they're not brittle reapply as needed using a fine mist spray bottle by pouring the contents from the non-spray bottle and then spring, a liberal amount of this conditioner on any rubber components will help with squeaks as well with regards to the vehicles, suspension components and steering rubber boots as well as weatherstripping and external window rubber seals, that typically are not UV treated as newer vehicles are. The smaller though spray bottle and sprayer the better so as to not waste the product.

For your seat switches that are prone to short out and possibly cause spark or a fire. If you haven't already just take the switches apart as best you can, and then upon reassembly spray a decent amount of WD-40 in the switch around the switch and the wiring in order to prevent the positive terminal of the switch to turn green from moisture, which could potentially cause I don't intentional short to ground. I find WD-40 works best because of its water displacement properties. Hence the name WD on the 40th try of creating this spray lubricant was success. It'll also help if you spray some underneath the seat on the seat rail guides or use some silicone grease this will decrease the resistance which will keep the motor from overheating and/or burning out. The same switches are utilized on your door panels. Just repeat for all of your toggle switches with WD-40 and you should never have anymore issues. As for your vacuum lines and any other rubber components within the edging department, there's a product that goes by the name if I'm remembering correctly ATP - 200 or something very similar to that name it's originally meant for transmission seals and O-rings has a rejuvenation additive that works extremely well for the engine and power steering as well. If you do have any rear, main seal or front seal leaks or transmission, power, steering, etc. it will help recondition the vacuum hoses and any other rubber components to like new condition as long as they're not brittle reapply as needed using a fine mist spray bottle by pouring the contents from the non-spray bottle and then spring, a liberal amount of this conditioner on any rubber components will help with squeaks as well with regards to the vehicles, suspension components and steering rubber boots as well as weatherstripping and external window rubber seals, that typically are not UV treated as newer vehicles are. The smaller though spray bottle and sprayer the better so as to not waste the product.

Its not useless man i have it for my moped seat and steer warmer and my phone charger

Thanks so much! I have a 71 mustang a that had no power and you saved me a lot of headache.

It's a good ideal to solder and tape the wires crimp ones can cause problems

How tight you put the chain and how do you wire the back of the garage door opener for the safety switches and on and off switch you can’t skip that part

Thank you very much! This helped me a lot with my 83 F150.

If the battery is a trunk with no manual opener, what happens if the relay 'craps out' in the open mode? Thanks

Do all 460's use the same pump? If so please tell me what pump you got😊

Does it hurt cars with a smart screan ?

Why when I jump the terminals battery goes from 12.2 down to 11 why would it go down rather than stay at 12.2 if alt is bad ? Thanks

His was super helpful I am having the same problem so super helpful

Why not run a hidden kill switch inside the car 🤔

Thanks man the detailed explanation was so helpful

Thank you very much! 70 mach 1, Windsor-im on my 3rd regulator, 1st one new China, last 2 off ebay (used vintage). I may look into a custom vintage style the way things are going. Thank you again!

In Spanish by CTM

You not suppose to move it horizontally

Anybody have any advice on what wires are necessary for the vehicle to run? I've got an 81 LTD with a ton of things hooked up to the solenoid. I don't know what's what. The AC doesn't work. The heater doesn't work. The radio doesn't work. All I want is for the car to run safely and have running lights. I don't care about the rest of the stuff. I just use it to run errands and occasionally drive it to work. Just a fun old car.

This is pretty cool actually because my battery is in my trunk My car is pretty unhackable because it has roll down windows and manual locks xd

Thank you for making the video and showing the way on how to do it and check upon installing the fuel pump.

I’m wondering if I have the same problem. If I plug in my alternator on the solenoid I can’t put the battery in because it shoots heavy sparks

Dude the jack stands should go on the pinch welds. Putting the jackstand on that bolt is not desirable shoudl the car shift even a little it will kick out from under that bolt

Thanks for sharing this!

My question is in case this relay fails while driving and battery gets disconnected , does the alternator output damage the ECU/ECM .

thanks good job. well done . it help me alot . Thanks

Any way to get a video of the whole wiring set up?

Nicely done thank you.

Is it possible that while driving and by accident someone could be on the same frequency as your remote and switch the batt off!

*Thank you for your review!*

remote is pointless, they can use a device to scan for the signal and turn the battery back on

hey buddy, do you play Project Reality Battlefield 2?

Thank you! If I turn OFF, will I lose my car’s Settings

Thanks 🙏

You did such a good review of this remote shutoff switch that it's no longer available as in sold out, and you said your not a salesman...........