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I can use the 20A onboard relay, but decided to rather drive a seperate 20A relay. No problems yet in many months. Works very well, even with the 3kW element.

Yes, one each. They are very cost effective. You can decide if you want to use the relay for On/Off via time & temp.

It will be a setting issue, most likely. Watch as many video as possible & read the manual.

Hi. I dont know the Andowl ATS, but I did combine the Smart Load with a Sonoff Temp control via eWeLink on the grid supply to the geyser's auto change over switch. That's to optomize grid useage when it rains. I have a video on that as well. It works like a charm.

No, they won't.....I tried this myself

The tick boxes are ONLY for grid charging if SOC is under the set %. PV will still charge it. PS. I made a mistake by ticking battery 1st. (by accident) I have change it to Load 1st.

Just a recommendation by so many who have had issues if not set that way

Weird for me to imagine an inverter without a battery, but yes, the TOU setting will then not be needed. It is used for the switch between grid and battery (or generator) I assume you only run on solar & grid. Load 1st would be the setting to tick.

I find the TOU settings extremely helpful once you understand them. I have change my approach a lot since I started a year ago. To many guys don't really understand how to use the TOU effectively,. That is why try to help with this video.

Explain and I will try...

Date, Time, temp., humidity, %RH [I don't measure the last 2] In CSV (Excel file format) Can then share from your phone

See manual: 1. Wire as an OUTPUT onto GEN input 2. Set SMART LOAD settings in GEN setup 3. Parameters set to switch output ON: a. Solar Watts must be reached b. Battery SOC% must be reached BOTH MUST BE REACHED TO SWITCH ON. To be done by an electrician!!!

@@bolandsystems2024 what about setup when there is no option in menu solar watt. There is only bat On and Off?

1. Insolate your geyser REALLY WELL!!! It's cheap and means you only heat it once during the day when there is enough sun. Heat lasts till the morning. (monitored via Sonoff TH20) 2. Set the thermostat to max. (70 degrees C) for Smart Load max. heating. 3. Add the Sonoff TH20 Elite temperature/timer unit like in my other video. (switches on when below a temp. / off if above) 4. Add a auto change over switch (like in other video) for external power to geyser (Smart Load as default input) Note: I am not familiar with generators, but here is a basic idea: (ATS might be needed) 5. Gen options (depending on size): a. power straight to geyser through auto-change over switch (managed via Sonoff temp. timer) OR b. to Grid input of inverter (check: Hz range of gen. & size [only run at 50% capacity continuously] [Gen input will be used as Smart Load output - thus unavailable for generator] You only need a trigger to start up the generator when the temperature is below a certain value (40 degrees) and off above say 46 degrees. That must trigger the generator to send power via the auto-change over to the geyser. This is the most effective way to minimize alternative power to the geyser. (managed according to temp.) You can optionally add an external trigger as well to start the generator if the batteries runs low. (if connected to the grid input)

I prefer to use the Gen input for the Smart Load output because of the excellent parameters to heat geysers. You can then put the generator on the Grid input. There are videos on that (same as Sunsynk) Re Geyser use: heat once to max. heat (70°C) with free heat (SL), isolate VERY well, then keep off. It stays hot enough till the morning. Add a Sonoff TH20 temp meter to view & control temp. (see my other video)

8x550W JA Solar

Thanks for the reply. I have the same size and number of panels but at peak am producing 1,200w at peak. Am also in a country with climate as SA. How can i diagnose the problem? I have a 12.5kva deye inverter

@@muhammedbux8302 you should be getting 4.kW..... touch on solar icon and see Volts and Amps of strings. Should be around 160V - 180V for a 4 panel string and Amps will fluctuate according to sun. Watts on each string should approach 2.2kW on very sunny day. Otherwise you have: shading issues or a bad installation

Set Smart Load on at 85% or 90% (when reaching 100% battery will drop to say 98% and not go up to 100% again - not triggering SL setting) Plus, you need some battery charging left to keep the load above your SL setting (say 2000W) The only time SL tends to stay on, is when it is on and grid fails. (does not switch off - so I added a timer to cut at 3pm)

Don't know it, no...

@@stanslaszulu the Smart Load is only useable for "excess solar" It only switches on when your battery is almost full an PV is high (according to your settings) You should put everything on Load, eccept things like stoves (geyser) which can still be power by solar & battery, but not during a power failure. (CT must be placed correctly) Watch my other videos on Smart load and auto change over switch useage.

@@bolandsystems2024 thanks for the response and I will watch more of your vids on smart load. I am in a smaller house and my normal/consistent load is about 500watts which is 2 fridges, TVs, lights, internet routers, a laptop or 2 plus some speakers. I am using one 5kw inverter. The most load it has handled is 4kw when I had a heading element and microwave on but this was for a short time. I am moving to a bigger house where the consistent load will increase to maybe 1200 when I add more lighting plus cameras, gats motor and water pump. I will install two 5kw inverters in the bigger place. Plus I have panels with max wattage of 11kw plus total storage of 20kwh. I know I will have a lot of excess power so I am trying to figure out how I can optimise the use of the excess capacity to power the rest of the heavy appliances like geysers, aircons and possibly stove/oven using the smart load.

​@stanslaszulu with that setup, I would: Put everything on Load, except the older type of stove (can still be driven by solar & batteries if set to: Zero export to CT.) Then follow my setup for your geyser to be powered by - Smart Load [when ever there is excess PV & batteries almost full] - Grid [when it's cloudy] - a heat pump is expensive but works lovely on an inverter We use an airfrier (oven type), induction stove & microwave and have no more need for a stove Make sure your aircon are the inverter type. They are great with power usage and soft start. In winter you might struggle to get 20kWh batteries loaded to full with 11kW panels. Rainy days your PV can drop to 10% production or even less. Adding panels will not be a sound investment though (pay 100% for 10% - 50% production for a few cloudy days only)

@@NikitaGarets yes, it is 2 different outputs. You can not use Smart Load output and Generator input together. It is the same connection

@@NikitaGarets yes, the Smart Load output is just a Load output with parameter settings (%PV & Battery SOC)

1. If the temp probe can be alstuck on where the heat of the water can be measured. 2. It then provides a relay for any power to be switched on/off via a combo of time & temp.

Thanks sir what putty glue was used?

​@@ahmedomar7743Den Braven Glue Screws

Sorry for the late reply. I don't think so. You would need to access a spot on the geyser that is hot to stick the probe onto

Hi Niel. The relay is a common DIN rail 20A relay powered by 220Vac. Most electrical suppliers should have one. (CHNT model NCH8-20/11) My Smart load goes to both, but the 2nd geyser's power 1st goes through the relay's N/C. That means, when the Smart Load power switches the 1st geyser on, it also powers the relay to open the N/C contact to the 2nd geyser. When the 1st geyser's thermostat switches off, the power to the element is cut. The relay is therfor wired onto the element of the 1st geyser. I also added DIN rail LEDs to indicate which one is on. 1 - connected to feed from element to relay 2 - connected to feed to 2nd geyser's tripswitch (better to connect to it's element input) You should strongly consider a 200l geyser & 2kW element (with screw connectors on element) as your spare geyser BEFORE your main geyser's input. Water flows through 2nd geyser to 1st (main) geyser The main geyser's temp is regulated (50°C) and the spare geyser is dependant on excess solar, set to 70°C (fluctuating) So add a wifi timer to your main geyser, preferably via an auto change-over (SL or timer input to power geyser 1) If it rains, the timer will switch on & heat the main geyser. 90% of the time your SL will heat both. Let me know if you need a sketch.

@@bolandsystems2024 Hi. Please send me a sketch if you can 🙂

That’s Same problem coming to mee

Same

Here same once or twice its ringing now hundred time i call but not ringing on mobile

Hi. No, it detects heat, therefor it needs a clear line of sight. A cleared strip of about 2m is usually requested outside the fence. Max. & min. sizes must also be tested near & far

The SD card is in the monitor. In the programming on the monitor, you can format and set it up. You have to tick the box in programming to do recordings

Is there a video demonstrating this process ?@@bolandsystems2024

It swithes On when both parameters are met. It switches off when 1 parameter is not met >1min. It swithes back on after the battery has charged & both are met again. Your geyser's kW should preferably be lower than the PV setting, or you will cycle your battery a lot!

No, it will drive you crazy. You can add the image to your NVR with very basic motion detection recording, but is seldom needed. With an SD card in the monitor it records: 1. A picture snapshot of the one ringing 2. A voice message can be left if no-one is home.

@@bolandsystems2024 This configuration is already the factory default. Or do we have to configure some setting for this?

No. Only recording a snapshot on ringing. You can pull in the gate station's camera on a NVR, with motion detection, but currently it is only very basic motion detection (not AI)

It depends on how empty (cold) it was. If almost fully empty (cold) a 150l will take 1h30min on 3kW. If heated with solar power, I turn it up to 60°C to last till the morning. I have a 200l with 3kW element in, but use little water to pre-feed a regulated temp geyser (Harver 30l induction) If fully empty, I guess a 200l, 2kW will take around 3h. With enough sun, it's ideal. Smart Load starts around 10:30am (summer) You then have until 4pm to heat the geyser (4.4kW panels as minimum)

Thanx.

You can set the SOC% for ON & OFF at any %. I choose 90% On, because I want some reserve charging left over for the battery. Once my Volta reaches 100%, any load > PV will let the SOC drop with only a trickle charge feeding it (will not charge to 100% again before it drops below 90%)

@@bolandsystems2024 you can't do less than 100% on my deye. The inverter does not allow you to change this setting. That's why SMART doesn't start for me. And in general, everyone praises Deye, but I don't like it, there is a lot in it, but it doesn't work, or it doesn't work normally.

​@@dieselodesaMy Deye 5KW inverter is the same. The ON battery SOC % cannot be changed. I ran into the following issue (but there is a workaround): My standard backup load is around 500W and my geyser is 2000W. I figured the logical "Power" setting under SmartLoad should be 2500W, which can run backup load and smartload without needing the battery to help. On heavy cloudy days, I only reached 2500W solar out much later in the day. By then, the battery managed to recharge back to 100% with less than 2500W available solar power. The BMS on my Volta Stage 1 batteries ( 2 of them in parallel) does not keep the battery at 100% SOC. Not long after reaching 100% SOC, they will drop down to 99.9% SOC. And now for the issue: When solar output did reach 2500W, my batteries were 99.9% SOC and SmartLoad would not turn on as the batteries are not 100% SOC. The workaround was to change the "Power" value to a lower value (1500W). Now, when the batteries do reach 100% SOC, SmartLoad turns on because the "Power" value is met. The drawback is that the battery will need to supplement power if there is less than 2500W. If there is for example 2000W solar power available, the inverter draws 2000W from the panels and 500W from the battery. This is not a problem in general as the battery will only drop to the OFF SOC % setting in a worst case scenario. In most cases, I do draw a bit of battery power until solar output reaches 2500W. I hope this helps.

Depending on your firmware, when you choose Smart Load, the the % appears under Micro Inverter. Change the % settings there. (When you tick Micro inverter, you will see the % changes, thus those blocks are used for both SL & MI... confusing, I know)

Hard to say. I do not know your setup. Ideally: a 2nd 200l geyser connected to the Smart Load output (electrician) replacing the 4kW element with a 2kW (plumber). Add an auto change-over switch & smart wifi timer. Optional: add relay powered by main geyser's element to switch between 2 geysers. Electricals +-$300 (R6000) 2nd geyser +-$600 (R12000) You should not need to use grid power ever again, other than cloudy rainy days. Temp is much more controlable than solar geysers which tend to overheat

@bolandsystems9707 thanks. How can I get hold of you?

Where did you get the Changeover switch that has the WiFi capability?

@@Vkara01 no, the WiFi switch is left of the auto-change over. It provides grid power to the change over if SL was not enough

Hi Danny. You 1st have to see which products are available locally. The outdoor & indoor PIRs, siren(ind/outd), remotes, panic buttons, magnets, relays, transmitters for 3rd party sensors should be available. You can then use their TX in any other wireless sensor like Optex/Takex if Hik does not have a simular product. You loose a few nice features (walk test), but nothing serious. As installers we work with the Hik-PartnerPro App for setup & management, but you should be able to do it all on Hik-Connect as well (or download HPP) It is pretty intuative.

Alarms?

Sorry for the late response... It is the DS-2TD2628-10/QA