Відео

The best knife you own is the one you have when you need it. Deciding on which steel, grind, weight and length is irrelevant really. Buy a quality 6 to 8 inch blade with a good sheath and it will get you through thick and thin. I carry my 6.5 inch blade as my EDC. I always have it on me church, work or walmart. Of course I live in a free state. If you live in a communist state then it your own fault.

In my experience; “The knife is the most important tool Mankind has ever made, and no one should be without one.” - Royce J. Reinhart-Brown In an emergency your knife may have to be capable of harvesting saplings, processing firewood, preform light chopping, and fine carving tasks. Your knife may also have to help you to craft shelters, fires, tools and weapons, process animals, and defend yourself against predators or people. With those as parameters; a good solid Bushcraft Knife is primarily for camp craft and practicing wilderness skills. I’ve seen and experienced all kinds of Bushcraft outings since 2015 and the vast majority of Bushcraft Knives are 4” (sometimes 5”), with Scandinavian grinds and either drop points or French tips. It is also very classy for a Bushcraft knife to have a wooden handle, and not coated - with a 90 angle spine and made of some high carbon steel most commonly 1095, and always full tang. (Think the Pathfinder Scout for example or the BPS Adventurer.) Whereas a general Survival Knife meets all of the aforementioned criteria in terms of performance as it needs to be capable in all kinds of areas and situations- so it will be good at many of these survival tasks but not AS GOOD in some as a dedicated hunting knife or bushcraft knife. If a hunting knife is good at dispatching animals, skinning and processing animals (think the classic Buck 119) - and a Bushcraft knife is more capable of wilderness crafting (where a hunting knife is often thinner and not as robust with a clip point blade) a Survival knife is kind of a good mix of both a hunting knife and a Bushcraft knife with a robust tip like a drop point for piercing and drilling, the handle construction needs to contain some sort of guard protecting your hand from the blade, now I say guard and NOT CHOIL because if using your knife for self defense a guard will protect your hand from sliding down the blade whereas a choil can still slide down the blade. It also needs to have a blade length of at least 5” to be an effective weapon against predators. And it needs to be built like a tank for sustained heavy abuse in all kinds of conditions and weather. (Think the Gerber Strongarm or the ESEE 6) My personal survival knife that I carry as a Wilderness Ranger in New England for the past 6 years now is the SCHRADE SCHF3N. It’s a bit on the larger end for a survival knife but there is a saying amongst the Rangers who patrol the mountains; “The greater the potential for danger - the bigger the knife.” And my urban carry is the Gerber Strongarm (black), it’s got a perfect profile for urban environments in terms of conceal ability but it’s also a proven capable combat knife if needed for the zombies. But what I really like about the Strongarm is that it transitions seamlessly from an urban sharpened pry-bar PSDW (Personal Self-Defense Weapon) - to robust, nimble, and reliable wilderness survival knife in case I need to escape the confines of the busy chaos of the city and seek the abundant resources and tranquility of the Wilderness. And I feel like that versatility is truly what makes a great Survival Knife.

Great explanation of the design behind the scandi and flat grinds. Learned something there. Thought the scandi was only for sharpness..edge angle.

Just for asking is it safe to use Nikon F2 under -20 degree

Fiskar...the tool with no soul.

I like the gay bar, I mean the Ka-Bar.

Mora COMPANION HD Carbon❤❤❤

I rarely use an axe, even to split logs, unless they are very hard logs or very wide logs. I do have a big, tough, heavy duty chopping knife in place of an axe (most the time). It's a Schrade SCHF45 Bowie Knife. I have used it for 4 years now, alot, and love it! Splitting smaller wood I do use my medium and small size knives, based on size of wood I am splitting. And have you guessed my small knife option?! A Morakniv Companion. Great, long lasting knife at good price. My medium size knife did end up with a rounded chunk out of the cutting edge, so now I just bought a new knife for my medium size. Can't wait to test it out. It's a Buck 768 Birkenhead. Not much selection in our stores here. Seems like best option at this time for non-online shopping.

I love my Morakniv Companion! Actually I have multiple of it to keep in different packs for different uses. I do use one for my food cutting at home and outdoor too. I always have this knife in the woods (on property and the in the wild). It does so much for me and holds up real well. I also like that it's not so expensive.

All knives you depend on should be full tang and good steel and a good design and a good grind.

Also found a similar version as one of my top choices. ua-cam.com/video/f58KHexk9uc/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared

Having a quality fixed bladed knife is the answer. Everything else is interesting video material!.

Actually just got myself one of these, with the green micarta scales, off the back of this video. Really lovely knife and the 3V is *superb*. Don’t suppose you know to what Rc it’s been heat-treated, please? That info isn’t on the K&T website.

Great video man

You can abuse that mora companion just as much as that kbar 🙄

How is a Scandinavian grind not good for food?

There is no difference. You shouldn't be using a knife to break a lock. Bushcraft is just wilderness surviving with extra crafting so that it's thriving instead of just surviving. Wilderness surthrival knives are what they all are.

If only Fallkniven used micarta for their handles. Resin based materials are far superior to rubber based ones for knife handles.

Keep your knife sharp. That what's matters the most.

Thought provoking Thanks

In other words, just grab a good bowie knife for all things, lol...Then it doesn't matter what situation you are in that requires knife use.

Nice video!

What knife is that with the wooden handle and black lanyard?

I'd take surviving over crafting a bush anyday!

Whenever I decide to put a new knife through it's paces I do a try stick. I'm less worried about batoning or many of the other stuff. Can it feather stick? Can it do a good try stick? If yes, it's good enough for me.

For one 200 euro fallkniven i can buy 3 cold steel srk. Give me a reason to buy fallkniven since i dont have experience with it? Nice video and thanks!

Esse ❤

Great job. I loved the photos 👌👌👌

I of course disagree on the tomahawk not being a viable option, yes it's light and all the negatives that come with it, but it's light and easy to carry and rehandle if needed. I wouldn't try crafting spoons or bowls with it as well as trying to process anything over two or three inches, it excels at processing small firewood, thinner branches for structures, pot hooks and similar, and gathering fatwood and similar. I have a council tool camp Carver for carving and I have a few full / fuller sized axes for felling, limbing, and bucking. Know what you're doing before you go and bring the right tool. Don't get me wrong, I like the video, but I am a tomahawk fan😂

I feel any good knife can be either a survival knife or bushcraft knife. Some are just more durable than others and you need to understand your knives limits. As long as it can do basic knife things like process game, cut cord, feather sticks, notch sticks/ whittle, and even process small logs for dry tinder. For that last bit, if you feel your knife isn't very durable, you can always carve wooden wedges to split wood if the need arises. Carry whatever knife you love, that knife along with your brains will get you far. If you want to carry a knife thats 3ft long 1inch thick sharpened like an axe, you prolly won't need to use as much brains.

I like Moras. Affordable and work well. I bought a short blade machete from an owner who makes his own. They use spring stock steel, shape and sharpen. Wooden handles and sheath of heavy canvas. I liked that blade, so ordered a Tom Brown Tracker (knock off) and its a fine home job also! Leather horizontal sheath, well made. Both from New Zealand. The Tracker has Damascus blade, really sharp, heavy duty. Thanks for your video. Well done. The Machete was $35. The Tracker was $80. Great deal.

Im really impressed with the skrama 240 with a big bow silky saw. Those two have you covered in a lot of task. But adding a swiss army ranger and maybe a light weight fix knife(was thinking the f1 cos) is as light as a mora but better than. Throw in two augers a 1" and a .35" and you got ways to build a cabin out from no where with less than 5lbs. But maybe the fix blade knife isnt needed since the swiss army ranger knife locks. But it just a creature confort to have. But then you got the weight factor. Is .3lbs worth it?

It needs to be much longer a lot more detail

Knowing how and when to hone or sharpen your knife can make all the difference in performance, regardless of steel type. Strop your knife regularly and it will perform for you. I only sharpen when I get a knick or roll in the edge, which isn't very often. Great topic and info. Thanks! I have never been in a survival situation, and do not personally know anyone who has been in a life or death situation. You will use the knife you have with you for whatever your needs are.

Survival knife should have more survival things.

It will be big of you. if you could throw some links about them knives, you're talking about in the description.

Really enjoyed this video. Great demonstration and very informative. Greetings from Melbourne, Australia.

Nice place and tent. Did the fire not go off during the night or did you wake up to add the firewood?

Good stuff! I have similar projects on my channel if you are interested in.

Are you from Newfoundland?

Great video! Very informative and well thought out. Thank you.

While Fiskars/Gerber are decent quality and they are good to use there's something almost spiritual about owning Hultafors, Gransfors, etc hand forged axes. Looking at them and holding them in your hand feels good. Modern axes, while they can be practical, not so much.

From my experience, a knife is what you make it. Knowing the limitations of the steel and blade design will always benefit you. It allows you to compensate with other tools like an axe or saw. It's all about how your gear compliments itself.

Excellent explanation and overview. Thank you.

its beter dan flint?

Very nice video with very good information. I enjoyed it very much. 👍🏼👍🏼 I have been carrying a forest axe in my jeep for over 30 years. Many times I have come upon a tree across the road with some poor slob trying to get his chainsaw started. I like to carry a hatchet if I’m going to be out for more than a couple of days. But I’m a tomahawk guy.

Thanks for a great review. Wish you did mention length and weight 👍

Found this...Well Done! At 62 I've had a LOT of knives for both civilian and military. I also saw a lot of different knives depending on opinions and preferences. Like all the rest of you guys, I am a knife nut and own A LOT. But for practical use for me it comes down to cost/performance/utility. When we do our primitive camping, I take one knife and it's usually one of two, depending on the mood. My BK2 or my Schrade SCHF52 and they get used for everything: fire needs, shelter, cordage, food prep and they never missed a beat. Both cost way less than knives that are not any better than these two and you can use them as they were intended to be without concerns. Yes, there are better knives, better steel, lighter blades...blah blah blah. Ok, for less than 150.00 for two knives that would survive the Apocalypse. Having said that. that Fallkniven is on the list and the last time I got to handle a friends...that could be the new knife. Just cant get past the price at this point.

Very good video, thanks and take care😊

there is no stainless they all rust.