Відео

Not a climber but I do on occasion go up on my 2 story roof and use safety devices when doing so. Great advice.

Getting to the first bolt on Happy Face is unnecessarily dangerous even with cam placements. The first few moves shouldn't be dependent on a sketchy cam placement when the rest of the climb is a sport route. Also, when placing bolts think about the clipping stance- please don't make it so you have to clip mid crux or risk hitting stuff below because of poor bolt placement.

I`m replacing old cold shuts at my local crag & my question is about torque.I understand that 3/8" bolts require 18 FP & 1/2" - 25 FP. I`ve tried a click type torque wrench but often times its hard to feel the "click' & recently over torqued a bolt & had to remove it.I usually use a 6" wrench & tighten with as much force as I can generate. I tap the hanger to see if it has a nice "ring" to it as well as a bounce test.You mentioned when you tightened the bolt you felt it was about 20 FP. Have you checked with a torque wrench to verify ? Thanks for posting this info.

Thanks for the good info and a great video with your humor and wisdom to enjoy ❤

Where I climb theres extra bolts above the anchors cause no trees or rocks. I always did a clove hitch on a carabiner to the extra bolt and just guesstimated how much rope I'd need to the anchor. Never bothered with a gri gri. This is more legit lol.

Bobby, this content is great. Prepping for a trip to the Gunks and this is just what I needed.

Stay high don't die.

How did this area turn out?

Thanks for this video Bobby. Have just completed my first outdoor class and set a couple of TR anchors both from bolts and with cams and a rock. Clipped into a hanger and a cam for myself until an anchor was set and checked by my instructor. They both worked! I have a 30' static and just got my first dynamic so I will be likely testing your methods (with a mentor) soon.

thank you for this i learned alot about edge safty and the danger of edgeing

Thank you! Everyone says to setup a top rope as a new climber but I hadn't found a good video explaining how to safely set one up.

How about we bolt the climbs so that they are safe, this especially means first bolts shouldn't be sparse. There's no reason to have the first bolt 4 meters up. Also, I think it's reasonable to put the second bolt a distance away from the first where you wouldn't deck it if you fell before clipping in. Safety aside, why wouldn't you make a climb accessible to everyone? There are very good climbers that are afraid of runout climbs, and there are a lot of people who can't climb but are okay with falling long distances. Those things don't have to be related. There is joy to be had in a difficult climb for the climbing itself, it doesn't have to be scary. Why not make the climb accessible to everyone, and if one particular person wants, they can clip every 3rd bolt, or even free solo it if they so desire.

Thank You, it's good to review the basics once in a while. Finland gives 10 points.

Sweeet, I live in camino if you still need some help. Im free most weekends.

Love the info, thanks Bobby!

Love watching these. Hope there will be more one day!

Great video thanks, really would like to rebolt my area (in south of France)

I too am lucky to be alive after decking from the top of a climb when I first started out. Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Will definitely be shared with all the gumbies in my life :)

Dont use a bowline with a synthetic rope. Dumb ass.

Firstly, I think that the NPS and USFS should watch this before Jan 30th. Secondly, I have found old bolts with intact looking hangers that are not on mountain project, and have no idea how to find the FA. They're all just single bolts on top of huge boulders, so not quite that same as the sport routes around the corner. Have you ever been to Bald Rock in Butte county? It an epic playground that's probably a great spot to rig an awesome 1km highline, though I have no experience with that. HMU if you ever make your way there; I live at the bottom of that hill.

Amazing videos brother. Thank you for the knowledge

super helpful! thank you :)

Thank you thank you thank you!!!! You’re a good soul, I appreciate this clear cut presentation. Also I’m glad to hear you made it out of your life or death fall.

This is awesome 🤘🏻

I bought stainless 5 piece bolts because I wanted to setup some top rope routes near my house. This seems like a pretty solid setup to use. Now I just need to learn more about installing them, preferably with someone who knows what they’re doing rather than just going off of UA-cam Achademy lol

Bobby! We must live semi close to eachother. I’m constantly seeing videos of you guys around the sierras/tahoe area. Looks like this one’s around horsetail falls? Have you ever gone to Virginia City? There’s a route up here but idk when it was established, or the stability of the rock, or how to assess it for safety etc. there is a cross at the base soooo ya sketches me out a little lol 🤷🏻‍♂️

Looks sick

Really enjoyed this video Bobby! It was great meeting you - Hope to see more videos from you soon!

The realities of rope gymnastics resulting in unclipping make those manipulations inconceivable, unless it were done right there next to the pieces. From below, the rope tension and length make any upward or sideways loading nearly impossible. The pigtail withstanding full FF2 loads makes its ordinary use in rappel/toproping bomber.

Situation by situation, today most areas have a history that can inform active climbers, regarding local traditions, ethics, and such. Respecting the history involves both overall style, outlier routes, testpieces, etc. A few truisms hold anywhere: No one is forcing you to climb any route; your safety can be as simple as walking away; but also, no one owns any climb, and a first ascent is not a license to ignore the impact or consequences of ones actions on a vertical public space. Bold style dictated by natural protection deserves respect, and preservation, by and large. Artificial boldness, "statements," forced by sparse bolting, etc. age poorly(unless manner of placement was on lead, ex: Bachar-Yerian). Locals can develop forums to debate such issues, often as areas become overcrowded /overdeveloped. The Bolt Punk era of the 80's into the 90's raised the most ire, but overall now the reality of safety means that when bolts are used, they should be as state of the art and solid as possible. Despite some resistance, retrobolting heavily used belay stations and rappel lines will likely become more common, but really impacts practical realities and not the character of the climbing itself. Locally, I'm surprised that Eldorado Canyon has a few bolted rappel routes off Redgarden Wall that are distinct from actual climbing lines, yet the heavily trafficked Bastille Crack does not; watching parties at the awkward belays, as darkness or weather descends, gives me chills, deja vu of leaving the canyon years ago, half an hour before such a team had a fatal anchor fail and rescue of the stranded survivor. Abstract debates crumble against real lives lost.

Solid, practical advice. The tree tie could be done with the triple wrap, a fig. 8 eye and locking biner to the incoming line; this creates practically no strength reduction. If this were a summitting scenario, the main rope left available might allow anchoring quite a ways from the edge, if no closer reliable anchors were found, but this might necessitate moving down the line closer to the edge for communication, and not pulling belay rope over the edge. Situational flexibility, and familiarity with a few alternatives to the formulaic systems taught now, can help a lot to avoid needless compromises. The rule of "redundancy" is touched on, and the concept has value wherever anything might somehow be tested to a limit - but master points, belay devices and biners, harness buckles, and such are all non-redundant, in ordinary usage - but sound ropes, locking carabiners, belay devices simply have never failed where used to mfg. specs. Misuse and rockfall can bypass the normal parameters of things; things move and unclip, probably 100-1000 X more often than they break. Slings and ropes abrade dramatically, for example, under tension in a diagonal fall, across coarse granite - one climber following a traverse in the S. Platte took a mild penduluming swing, and found himself hanging from just a couple core strands of the rope(on display in Neptune Mtning). Testing equipment can reveal both surprising strengths, and weaknesses, in commonly used gear and setups. But developing an awareness of what to avoid is not a simple checklist; experience and sharing close calls can be more valuable than any quick "How To" video. User error is much more likely to result in accidents, than from using "old fashioned" methods which are still mostly "good enough."

I feel like everyone as climbers should know this skills

Great work. Stay Save

Love it! I love this kind of climbs. Salut out off switzerland! Cant wait for new videos!!!! Allready learnt a lot from your videos.thanks a lot!!! Be save and have fun what ever you do!!!! 🤙

Bought to climb at Red Rocks in Vegas. Thanks for the good vibes Bobbaaay

Weight is off of one bolt only…so failure would shock load second. Suboptimal anchor design.

CRG!!!

Epic! I think i know where that is, but have never been up close. I would definitely climb here, and if you need any help developing or cleaning I'd love to help!

Bobby, winter destination? Thanks for making things happen.

❤ teach me man Teach Me California

Really enjoyed this one. A vexaciuos issue, retro-bolting. The joys of climbing. Thanks heaps for making this. 🙂

Climbing ethics isn't worth people's lifes. Adding bolts to defuse dangerous routes is fine.

Wow, just found your channel after seeing you often on How not 2. You're one of my favorite climbing educators on UA-cam. Keep the videos coming 😊

Bobby just seems like the most awesomest bloke that ever awesomed!!

Thanks for all the knowledge Bobby, you’re one of the few channels I genuinely support. Keep killing it and hope you know there’s thousands of people eagerly waiting for the next upload, keep killing it dude.

love the Nalgene for scale! thanks.

Using the piton as the handle and proper blade steel for the blade is neat.

Great video!

Funny, I just came across some leapers hangers today for the first time. There were two hangers and a third five piece bolt with a washer and a chain. With no real other options I just did a three point anchor and did a direct belay for my 2nd. Everything worked out but I was a little sketched out. Luckily it wasn't on the route because I would not whip on those skinny ass hangers.