Відео

Haha yeah probably, but she works perfectly and is all balanced up now too!

Damn, rx7 FD? Sounds good! And no that turbo has water cooling, there’s 2 on each side, so you can plug one on each side for in and out or you can plug 2 on one side and make in and out on the same side!

Oh that’s a good idea! I’ve only ever brought 2 of these and luckily they both worked for me! But I like having spare stuff too!

Thank you too! That’s awesome to hear!

No problem at all, that’s probably better than my dodgy repair anyway haha! Thanks!

I think it was about 56,000 miles roughly, or about 90 or 91,000 km’s! Yeah it’s much easier to do while replacing the clutch!

Aww thanks heaps!! That’s awesome, I have ACL .040 84mm forged pistons, I built it in November 2007 and I can’t remember exactly who did the boreing but it was a machine shop here on the Gold Coast and I believe it was done to spec. I’ve got CP .020 83.5mm forgies for my new build which I’m currently working on! I got my power FC from Canada back in 2006 of eBay in the early days haha! Hopefully my new build will be up and running better than ever soon🤞🏼

Yeah and that’s why I tested them on the bench too!

Haha thanks heaps! Glad it was able to help you! Yeah, people probably shouldn’t own an N54 if they don’t plan to do some work on it!

Aww man, thank you heaps buddy! So glad I got her out again and for Haydens event! I’m in the process of building a new engine now and I hope she sounds exactly the same if not better!

Cheers 😁🤙🏼

I just got it to be flat with the aluminum around it! I didn’t feel it bottom out, it was very tight to go in anyway.

Ohh really! That’s cool, and they’re about 1/3rd of the price new too!

My dream finally came true ay! I’m working on building a new motor nowadays too so I can make it all happen again!!

@@ScubaMade keep the 2835 though please 👍

Yeah definitely!!! I love that turbo, and the compressor housing is perfect 👌🏼

@@ScubaMade I think I mentioned it previously, but I bought a couple after seeing your rebuild video. I got two of the 2835's, and I found a 3031 pro s which used the same compressor housing. I'm going to build that one up for a rwd 3sgte.

@@ScubaMade I have this fascination with old hks stuff, so I buy and collect all the old turbos, bovs, wastegate, etc

Thanks buddy, for me it was just cheaper to buy, I couldn’t find any twin plate cheaper than the one I brought and it was good enough to do what I wanted it to do! And so far it’s holding up really well!

@@ScubaMade Yea ok. On xtreme website it only has 200mm for 6 bolt. I got quoted $2814 for 230mm and though F that and thinking of a plan B currently

Yeah that’s way too expensive, I paid about $1800 from memory, in 2021, I think the 230mm organic ones were about $2300-$2400 at the time. I hope there’s something good for the N54s from uniclutch, I’m not sure if there is yet or not.

Cheers 😃 I almost wanted to do the ring gaps in the same spot but I just tried to make them about the same as how they were when I pulled it apart, but 45° on opposite sides sounds good too! I use my vice as a press because I don’t have a press, I’ve done all my turbos like that, it seems to work really good! It’s about $160aud for a balance here on the Gold Coast at the moment, and he has a very good balance machine as far as I know!

@@ScubaMade Oh I just didn't see the step where you actually pressed the turbine back through the bearings then. Bench vise is totally acceptable. $160 is just over $100 American, so matches about the cheapest I can find here, except I'd have to pay shipping both ways too of course. Oh I also meant to ask if he mentioned how badly out of balance it was before balancing. Thanks again!

Ok yeah it’s pretty lucky I can just drive less than 30min from home straight to the shop! I believe he said it was 6grams out of balance when he started, which is quite high! And he couldn’t quite get it under 1g which he normally does with all the other turbos I’ve had balanced.

Most the turbos I’ve seen with oil starvation have cracked the rear cage closest to the exhaust wheel and the most heat, that turbo didn’t have any signs of oil starvation but my thoughts are a slight balance or vibration of the compressor wheel and/or the fact no blow of valve was used which I forgot to mention, the turbo was definitely good as it was heavily used for over 2 years I believe! Definitely still a good turbo!

@@ScubaMade True, the cage being in tact means it definitely could have been worse. I was thinking small debris causing a partial blockage, so the center section just wasn't getting enough oil as opposed to none at all. Imbalance is possible of course, but it's funny I was talking to a friend right before seeing this video about how in failure analysis videos it almost never seems to come down to balance. No BOV will contribute to a shorter life, but so many people don't run one on high HP cars and the turbos live a long time. Definitely hard to say in this case! Thanks for the reply.

No problem, thank you too! I’ve had a few good chats with the balancer and that helps me come up with some options. Even what he told me after balancing still makes me think it could have had something to do with balancing, but I guess we’ve got no actual way to prove it so it’s just speculation.

Oh ok, but the inlet manifold comes off fairly easily and I’ve never removed the alternator so I don’t know which one’s more work!

@@ScubaMade Remove the drive belt, Remove the electrical connections, 4 bolts and the alternator is off!

Yeah probably a similar amount of time to just remove the manifold, but I don’t own an N52 anymore so I don’t need to worry about it! I probably need to remove the manifold on my N54 to clean to carbon build up in the head from the direct injection.

I don’t know what diff is shorter, is it still a big case 210 or 215 something like that? I know there’s medium cases and small cases like 180 and 160 or something like that, I don’t know heaps about all the different diffs but I just made shore the auto diff I brought looked exactly the same as the diff in my manual and it did! So just the inside is different!

There must be a loose connection or something, have you tried spinning them around and putting them in the other way?

@@ScubaMade yeah there is no way putting them in the other way I will try again later

Oh, I mean just take out the T5 bulb and turn it a half turn and put it back in so that the poles are the other way around and see if that works, they might be abit touchy when it comes to getting a good connection!

@@ScubaMade will try later hope it works

Yeah hopefully! 🤞🏼

I used the standard mounts so what ever thread they are, but one was broken so I put a long screw up into the plastic, it seems to be holding in place alright so far!

I actually won the intercooler at a drift competition in 2007! And I think a friend made the piping at first but I re did it myself afterwards, but that was all long before I made this video haha! I’m in the process of building a new CA now too!

@@ScubaMadeoh nice

Cheers buddy!! 😁

Sounds good and that’s a nice car to get, hopefully it’s a similar job and improves the fuel economy too!

That sounds like a good idea! And it should look like new again! I probably should have used a tank liner on the inside too, I might get around to that one day!

Hmmm, might be something wrong as my pump came on straight away and I didn’t change any wiring, but hopefully you can get it sorted easily!

Haha sounds good 👍🏼

It just went away on it’s own after driving for a few minutes, and if it doesn’t fix in, it might be a faulty abs sensor or something!

Cheers mate. Im doing this too. Very helpful DIY. 🍻

Ok sweet! Much appreciated 😃

Yeah I forgot to mention that in the video, haha whoops, and I don’t have a BOV on my Silvia anymore but I have one on my BMW! And Hayden definitely drives mega hard and a lot too so luckily it wasn’t worse for him!

@@ScubaMade yeah tons of guys harp on about running a BOV. Someone once made a good analogy & that was that if your turbo lasts 5 years with a BOV. With no BOV it might last 4 years.

Ohh ok, it’s personal preference I suppose, I don’t mind either way really!

That’s what I was thinking too! Garrett’s are so expensive but the quality is excellent! But these Pulsar’s still do a pretty good job I think!

@@ScubaMade My issue is that a Garrett G-Series costs far more than even a Borg Warner EFR, which is arguably the best consumer turbo on the market. I think they have the margins jacked up pretty sky high, personally. Not saying they are bad turbos at all, just that you are certainly paying a premium for the name. The G-Series is at least a huge step up from everything Garrett made before. Pulsar does a pretty convincing copy.

TBH no way to say what materials are better or worse without actually testing them. If you mean that the bearing package is inferior though, absolutely. The G-Series has a much beefier bearing package than the prior Garrett designs, so skimping there will definitely shorten the life of these turbos under heavy use. Primary killer of turbos is oiling issues. So even a small issue will be exacerbated by the older style bearings. That said, you are saving like $2,000 on average probably!

Yeah it would be cool if I had some tools to test materials, I’ve seen blocks tested on Motive Video’s channel by Herman from PRP, Platinum Racing Products, I enjoy watching them too and it’s always good to learn something new!

@@ScubaMade Those Motive Video tests are awesome!

I finally got around to measuring it again, it’s an M4 20mm long and 0.7mm pitch!

@@ScubaMade youre a life saver

Haha thanks heaps! Glad I could help 😃

In the taillight the BLUE wire is the positive. On the LEDs the LONG leg is the positive.

Thanks for adding all that extra information, I was just going off what I was told at JayCar, more than that, I didn’t really know what I was doing haha!

Did you use standard 5mm diodes? You know,those arround 2 volts and 20mA?

LED: Red, 5mm, round top, 2.1V, 20mA, 30 angle, height 8.91mm, no "standoff" on the legs.

@@b4ph0m3tdk9 thank you so much

Maybe the bulb needs replacing 🤔 or if it’s an LED bulb it might just be a problem. They can be coded out but that can be technical or costly.

If you mean, turn the fog lights on, the button is next to the headlight switch, should be front and rear fog lights! That’s what mine has anyway!

Thank you, I hope you can fix it before it becomes a bigger problem! Luckily the DISA’s are pretty easy to change!

Much appreciated! Thank you too 😃

Unfortunately if you check my other videos you’ll see what happened the new axle, if you don’t drive so hard it should be fine though!

Nah I didn’t mention it, all good, Mumbatek has the kits and wheels!

Thanks heaps buddy!! I was so glad to get it balanced and can’t wait to see it on Hayden’s 2jz!

Yeah it was a struggle but I got it out in the end!

Haha finally ay!! Cheers bro!! 😁

I believe the Bosch 200 is an upgrade from the 044 and is better at handling E85 fuel! I’m not really sure what 200/7 is though?

@@ScubaMade Just what Bosch calls it. Also seen it called 464 -200. That looks like the new one for sure. There are really no reviews on UA-cam regarding the sound. Have you tried running a bit more rubber?

Ohh ok, it’s been working perfectly for me, but I need to build a new engine now after finally going drifting again! I haven’t needed any more rubber or anything, it’s still sitting just as it is when I first set it up!

@@ScubaMade Is it quieter that your 044 pump or about the same?

It’s abit quieter but still makes a fair bit of noise, it’s hard to tell because the whole car is noisy..

Thanks heaps, much appreciated!! 😃

Haha yeah but unfortunately I broke it in the end, oh well!

Haha thanks heaps! 😁 I worry about my neighbors sometimes when I rev up my other cars though, but I don’t do it very often so it should be ok!

Yeah weirdly, my guess is that all the broken bits got stuck so when I drove home very gently it was working but the next day when I pulled out of the garage it stopped working and I couldn’t drive back into the garage because of the open diff and the broken axle!

I’m still waiting for it to be balanced, it’s taking over 3 months, I should call them again soon! I just like to rebuild it myself so I know what it’s like inside and balanced properly!

Can be rebuilt quite cheap overall. Bearing package is the most expensive part. No reason not to rebuild it if the housings are good.

Ohh ok, fair enough!