Відео

I don’t think you could prove one is more durable than the other. Rohloff a has been around longer and has an amazing track record. Pinion also has a really good reputation during the time they have been available.

@@Bikepacking I don’t have that bike anymore, but the couple of years it was in my possession it was flawless. I have had other Rohloff and Pinion bikes and I have not had any issues though all sorts of conditions. I think the belts make a massive difference to the maintenance, but I have been experimenting with waxed chain is also very clean and I am enjoying using them too.

@ thanks you

Hi, ours were the 26” Mk 1 but it will definitely tell you on their website. I would imagine it would be something like 2.6 but double check on their site

Hi, no they are direct sales. The owners are very friendly and are more of in the business to help local and biking communities. So price is good but you will have to pay duty. Other alternatives of similar bikes are NUA and Sonder. Both are really nice. You get a Ti fork with the NUA though!

Everything is subjective with contact points, but I have personally found them to be very comfortable. The added surface area to rest the palm of the hand is very nice on longer journeys. The models with the bar ends give you more options for hand positioning and you can angle them for a more stretched out or upright position.

@ thank you!

eehhhhhh, it's close. - photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27

Hi, before Brexit they used to ship to the UK. Now you need to get in contact with a dealer across the channel and they might be able to act as the middleman and ship to you.

Wow! That is a good deal! Hope you have many a great adventure on it!!

Hi, I have not done many of the actual ‘Day Out’ routes they have plotted but most do seem to be on old railway line type terrain. The books are good at describing what terrain you will encounter, but I do understand your predicament in not wanting to spend on the book to find out if they are suitable. I have my books away to a family getting into cycling so I don’t have them to hand. You can also find a lot of their routes on the website which might help in deciding to buy the books. If you already have the books it it is still unclear if the terrain I would look for a route that might be suitable and then do some research on that particular route. You might be doing that already hence stumbling onto my site. So apologies if my advice has been no help at all 😂

I don’t have this bike anymore but I think it was some TRP or something like that. They had to be quite a large drop as many brakes did not fit. The text below is from his website. Brakes - use a long reach (47mm - 57mm) brake caliper. Recommended calipers are Tektro R539, TRP RG957, or Velo Orange Gran Cru

I am not familiar with the bike frame so cannot comment. But I have not seen frames have a split for no other reason. I would double check with the manufacturer. If it is a split for a belt then yes if you are running a hub gear like a Rohloff or Alfine or running singlespeed you would just need the cogs and a belt and you are good to go. Just make sure your spacing on your chainring ensures a straight belt line. Belts have to be straight. If you are running singlespeed you can achieve a straight belt line by using spaces on the rear cog.

@@DylanJugroopFilm Yeah it comes with a rear hub motor with 7 speeds I think. Not sure if it's a freewheel or cassette though.

@luigiprovencher If you have multiple gears (cogs) at the back you cannot use a belt. The reason why it is possible with a Rohloff or a Alfine etc is that the gears are inside the hub. You only have one cog on the outside. A belt has to be inline and stationary. Eg if you have a rear derailleur you cannot use a belt.

@@DylanJugroopFilm Well that sucks then. So I'd have to buy a whole nother wheel with an internal geared motor then?

@luigiprovencher if you are wanting to have an electric bike with gears and belt you would need to have a mid mount or front wheel motor. Then at the back you would have an internally geared hub. Then you could use a belt. I am not aware of a rear motor that also includes internal gears. It seems with the set up you have it would probably be more cost and hassle to change all the parts just to fit a belt and it would make more sense to buy an electric bike specifically designed with gears and motor to take a belt.

@@psstone10 Velocity Blunt Wheels, DT Swiss Rear Hub, SON dynamo front hub, Shimano 10-51 cassette, White Industries square taper bb and crank with 28t chainring. TRP hylex rs brakes, Microshift 12sp friction/index bar end shifter, salsa guide seat post, salsa bars.

Replying to my own post....found someone had already asked and I've read your reply. Thanks.

You need to make sure you use the correct primers | paint and you mask the polystyrene.

@@adelkandil4069 Hi, you can contact me through my website at ridingbicycles.co.uk cheers

@@Silidons91 I would say the frame was slightly too big for my partner and if they did a small at the time I would have gone for that. She does normally get a small in other frames she has ridden. I would take the information off bike insights and geometry geeks and compare with drop bar bikes you find comfortable to get the correct size for you.

@@DylanJugroopFilmgotcha. Yeah it’s a bit larger with slightly less reach than my tarmac sl6 which is a 56cm. I also ride that bike with a straight seatpost, and have my saddle slammed forwards. So I’m thinking I’d be more of a medium than a large. Thanks brother I hope everything works out for you as well. God bless.

I am 5ft 7” (171 cm) you can get a gauge on how it compares where I had the saddle etc. I normally ride mediums and I found the reach a tad long.

The rear cogs fit onto Shimano HG hub bodies. You just need to use single speed spaces to ensure the belt is straight. I use a long straight edge across the front of the the front chainring to line up the rear one.

@@DylanJugroopFilm Thank you

Thank you so much for your comment. We were really fortunate to have good weather and we did not need to change our plans for fires even though Jasper was evacuated the day we set off from Banff which was not nice news. But the trip was truly the most fun one I have done so far. Jumping in lakes and rivers whenever we could was ace! The people we met were lovely and the scenery stunning.

@@SirBikesAlot Please do get in touch! I am sure we can find you something places to sleep between us and our friends whilst you explore the mountain biking in Yorkshire. Many thanks again for a great time!

Hello, Both bikes are MTB bikes with the same geometry. The main difference between the two is one is steel and gearbox and the other is Ti and derailleur. I have just written a post to bikepacking.com on the Priority HXT review but it is waiting to be moderated. I have included the post text below as I think it will answer most of your questions. Hi, before I join the conversation I just want to be clear that this is just my personal opinion and I know I am not right or wrong, it is just what I think. There is a lot stated about the advantages of a Pinion and Gates combination so I am going to focus on the weight as that seems to be a discussion point. At the end I will discuss why I am turning my back on the Pinion gearbox and maybe selling my current Pinion bike. I have had quite a bit of experience with Gates, Pinion and Rohloff. I have had a Pinion bike in the shed for maybe the last 12 years. The list of Pinion bikes that I have had is below. Pilot Vamos - Titanium Adventure Touring Frame - 16+ kg Tout Terrain Outback - Steel Adventure Touring Frame - 15-16 kg Tout Terrain Scrambler x2 - Steel Gravel Frame - 13-14 kg Solace Cycles OM-2P (current bike) - Titanium Adventure Touring Frame with Ti Cycles fork - 15 kg Some of the bikes I have built up myself, you can get most things Pinion related from pinion-bikes.de . The only reason you would want to buy your gearbox separate to the frame is if your frame provider as a hefty mark up and that is all dependent on what country you live in. Many many years ago when Santos had a dealer local to me here in the UK I was talking with the owner of the bike shop and I was discussing the possibility of retro fitting a Rohloff and belt to a frame I had. He advised that the torque belts can put through a rear triangle when you pedal can misalign the frames (this is the view of the owner and not Santos). I think I recall that adverts about this time had little logos to say Gates Certified if they were selling belt drive bikes. Maybe it was for this reason? Maybe they need to be built a bit more burly than your standard bike not just to take the weight of the gearbox. So talking about the weight issues. As you can see from the list of bikes above the frame material does not make that much difference. A Ti bike is not that much lighter if at all, than a steel one. Carbon might be different but I have not had experience with one. The Tout Terrain Scramblers are lighter, but they are a 50mm max wheeled gravel bike and an equivalent derailleur bike would be around 10 to 12 kg. So you may be wondering why I don't mind the weight. The reason is I don't tend to ride with other people. If I do I generally take a derailleur bike. The reason being, it is harder to keep up with riders of a similar ability. I did the Cairngorm Loop with friends on one of the bikes listed above and I was wrecked by the end even though my friends, they won't mind me saying, are of lesser fitness. People state that if you load a bike up then weight does not matter, but regardless of your starting point if it is heavier to start off with it is going to be heavier when loaded up, this makes a difference when you are pushing your bike up endless passes. No matter how much you are carrying psychologically you know your set up could be 2 - 3 kg or more lighter with a different bike. Why do I like Pinion, Gates, Rohloff? For all the reasons we hear about all the time. No maintenance, no concerns when out riding, changing gear when not moving etc, etc etc. Just to answer some quick points that have come up in the discussion. 1) You can tell a belt is coming towards the end of its lifecycle you just look at it and check for wear. You can change it then or weight for it to break just like a chain. 2) Belts are strong, they are not fragile things. You just need to make sure you fold and fit it correct. Just like you would not bend a chain sideways. 3) Belts do not stretch at all, so your cogs are going to last longer. Change the cogs when the teeth look like they are changing shape and your belts will keep to the desired life cycle. Again, what I say below is personal opinion. I am not right or wrong it is just how I feel. So if I like them, why am I thinking of selling? - One big reason why I jumped on board was the prospect of owning a brand that had longevity with its parts and did not follow market trends for the sake of fashion. They make a product that has been pretty much been the same since it was introduced and any improvements have generally been backwards compatible or like Rohloff they introduce a part that can make it backwards compatible. I must be one of the few people out there that don't mind a twist shifter. I have lots of other bikes that all use a different way of shifter. They are all friction shifters some on the bar ends, some thumb, I also use downtubes shifters on my Brothers Cycles Mr Wooden and Black Mountain Road bike. As long as it is a friction shifter I have no preference over which shifter I use it is just a way to change gear. So as you can imagine, I am not a fan of electronic shifting, yes I have used it, yes it works very well. I just think it is another unnecessary introduction of more batteries in the world that we don't need like the electric toothbrush. Plus another opportunity for manufacturers to make proprietary parts to tie you to their brand with zero interchangeability. As you can probably tell I am a fifty year old that wants the bicycle to remain a simple thing in life. So I am sticking with all my friction shifting bikes, cause I love um. I have started waxing the chains, this keeps your hands clean. I love tinkering with bikes and changing parts in and out and with my friction bikes my options are near enough unlimited. So if you are interested I have a very low mileage (300 miles max) medium Ti Solace Cycles with Ti Cycles (handmade in Portland) fork. I can sell this as a full bike with various wheels sizes and SON hubs etc. or as a frame/fork/gearbox. If you do a search for ridingbicycles.co.uk you should be able to find my blog and/or youtube channel. For those wondering I think electric bikes are a good addition to a household as a car replacement or for accessibility reasons (age, mobility, etc). But when fit healthy middle aged men are using them to finish a route and get to the pub quicker my view becomes a bit blurred. Hope this helps to push the discussion forward.

@RidingBicycles you had both version with pinion, Solace OM-2P and Tout Terrain Outback. So the riding charactics are almost the same and the main difference is steel vs titanium? Are one of them more capable doing offroad/mtb? As I wrote first I like the thought of one bike that can do it all, main idea is doing bike rides on trails on local mountains, but maybe I will dip my toe into some bikepacking some day as well. There would also be some bikeing along roads and stuff like that so that would exclude the bikes that only focus on mtb/downhill. The one thing I am sure of is that the bike I will end up with will have Pinion geerbox and belt drive. Many of your videos have convinced me that it is the correct choice.

@@Niflheim919 Sorry I thought you were asking my opinion of my Stanton MTB versus the Outback. So yes the only difference is frame material. They both have similar geometry and both take the same travel suspension fork. The Solace Cycles is about lighter and I think is more fun to ride. The Outback is a nice smooth ride. Both are ace for bikepacking and you don’t have to worry about maintenance. Don’t let my choice deter you. My decision is purely based on an ideology that we need less batteries in the world. Pinion and belt are amazing for riding without worry or concern over your drivetrain. And the fact you can shift gear whilst stationary is really beneficial with a loaded bike. You don’t realise how much you appreciate it until you have the option to use it.

@@DylanJugroopFilm thanks for your feedback. Highly appreciate it. Do you know how much lighter the om-p2 is compared to the Outback? I find it hard to come across information about these kind of bikes and how they perform in their mtb role, most articles is about long journey bike packing.

I would say the Outback is a kg or two heavier. If you are in England I have the Solace for sale with loads of spares I can sell it as a frameset with a carbon Firestarter fork. A full bike or just the frame and gearbox. It has only done 200 dry miles. I have spare belts and oil change kits and Pinion tools which I can also sell. If you are abroad I am sure we could sort something out regarding shipping. We are hoping to move abroad within the next year so I am going to be having to sell most of my bikes barr a couple and the Solace will be one to go. You can contact me on djugroop@gmail.com

That sounds shockingly bad. I did some research and bought third party batteries from a reputable company. I only had the kits in my possession for about a week or two as I was just curious about about building them up. I also got some Banfang kits again with good batteries I have the completed bikes to family members and they are still going strong for commuting purposes to this day, I think one of the batteries went in for a couple of its cells changing and that cost very little. I think making sure good quality batteries are used from a supplier that will check and replace cells when required is something I would do in the future. The batteries cost a lot of money but it must be worth it in the end. I do not know if Cyclotricity is still running. It was just something to occupy myself during the lockdowns.

@@scottlazar6376 Thank you 🙏🏽 we are currently doing on the tandem the GDMBR from Banff to Ferne and then The BC Trail from Ferne to Vancouver. When we get back I will do a vid on that 👍🏽 good luck with your trip ✌🏽

@@kevindean9613 I fully submerged my Rohloff a few times in rivers with no ‘known’ issues. I think if you do end up submerging it I would do an oil change as soon as reasonably possible afterwards.

@@DylanJugroopFilm I agree , I haven't used either of the Rohloff bikes for a couple of years now , I've had the Rohloff slip gears a couple of times ,They are both very clever systems but for me the belt drive ,bike balance ,gear action & being able to swap out wheels wins .Pinion even remind me when to change oil .The electric gear change looks very cool .

@@wilhelmmatthee6675 Sorry can’t help you with that, I have only run 29er 2.2 ish or 27.5 by 3”.

People do it all the time…what are ya talking about

Makes no sense to me too all my Ti bikes have Ti forks all my steel bikes have steel forks. but seems to be the question I get asked the most. Plus if you look at a lot of steel frames produced unless they are for hardcore touring they come with carbon forks or a carbon fork is touted as an upgrade option. I buy Ti and steel for durability so the last thing I want on them is a plastic fork. I don’t think I go into great detail about weight saving in the videos. I don’t think I mention it at all in any of my others.

Hi, I am 171cm tall (5ft 7”) I went with Salsas size guide and got a small. The bike feels great, but I think I should have gone for a medium because the very long seat post is on its limit and then some.

To add to that I don’t think I have long legs, my inseam from crotch to floor is 81cm

Heavy touring/mtb bike instead of a road bike on a very hilly commute which is Everest every 20 work days.

@@DylanJugroopFilm I don't understand what you mean?

@@DUCzillaMonster The rohloff is on a heavier off road touring bike. An off road touring bike is always going to be slower on steep up hill tarmac roads than the light road bike I am comparing it to.

@@DylanJugroopFilm ok, just about the weight of the hub, i should see, its the hub against my 3 to 7 derailleur setting now, not that much of a difference in guess, belt driven

@DUCzillaMonster When you take into account the weight of the front and rear mech and the the cassette and chain you might be taking the Rohloff is 400 to 500 grams heavier. Check this article out for the facts about Rohloff and Pinion. www.cyclingabout.com/weight-difference-between-derailleur-pinion-rohloff-bikes/

Hi, if you mean where we camped on the beach it was here. maps.app.goo.gl/fF9UYroi5Zk6uApd7?g_st=ic

It could go very fast. I would say approximately 20-30mph on a flat depending on wind conditions. BUT I want to add I was riding this on private roads. These powerful kits are illegal on public roads and I do not condoned the use in public spaces as they are giving all cyclists a bad reputation. If you are after a kit for public use make sure it has required wattage and speed limit and it can’t be activated with a trigger throttle, it needs to be pedal assist.

There is plenty of room in the Sherpa frames for fatties. They are specd on the website to take up to 3” for 650b and 2.5” for 29ers.

@@DylanJugroopFilm That's great to know! I just bought a second hand one. I assumed the 3" tyres you put on were on 29s, but i'm an idiot. Regards.

Sweet. Nice bike. My brother had one of those. Still plenty of use to be had in the bike. 90’s mtb bikes make great touring bikes too.

Depends on your terrain. If I was mainly tackling single track and rough terrain I would like flat bars. Suspension optional as it depends how fast I would want to go. All down to terrain, luggage, desired speed over said terrain, confidence and personal preferences

The Outback is a mountain bike at heart if you ride mainly single track or rougher stuff then the Outback would be the better option. If you are planning to ride mixed surfaces and a little bit of the rougher stuff then the Scrambler could be the better option. The Outback is designed to take some abuse and heavy loads so it is not light. Mine came in at about 16kg with a sus fork and about 14 - 15kg with the carbon. The gear range though helps you get over anything, it would impact your speed though, if speed is an issue for you then either bike might not be the best option and both are made for enduring long miles carrying loads without maintenance issues.

Thank you 🙏🏽

Hi, I don’t have that frame anymore, it was a lovely frame and I regret selling it. Well I regret selling every single bike I have ever owned!!!! But that would mean I would need a space for about 150 which I don’t have. I am building up a Brothers Cycles Mr Wooden with downtube friction shifters at the moment. That will have a Velo Orange 28/46 crank and a 11-36 cassette, I think that will work really sweet. As regards to the set up on the Black Mountain. It could handle big/big without any issues and small/small did not cause the chain to sag. But I did find that the chain did drop a couple of times when moving on to the small chainring as the rear mech would quick take up the slack. The only reason I kept the 46t cassette on was because that is what I had when I was using one friction shifter to use it as a 1x11. I can’t honestly remember the chainring sizes on the 2x setup I think it was something like 28/44.

@@DylanJugroopFilm Thanks, good stuff. I went and googled the Velo Orange to see how a granny 28 can go with a 44, and recognised it from a Path Less Pedaled video I've yet to fully watch. I've been side tracked into researching 2x options, for MTB crossover into skinny tyred riding and also MTB 'bikepacking' touring. It was cool seeing your field review of the White cranks, out on dirt, and it's very affirming to have you tell that you're choosing a 28/44 chainset. That's the synchronicity I'm famous for! I'm writing a lot about 2x 'MTB' cranksets with a 14t step. The 22/36 was (is?) a favourite combo for many like myself, but 10t step became some kind of new standard spec. But Shimano have now adopted 14t step in their new Cues line-up so it can bridge from MTB to what they call 'trekking' and 'urban' bikes. So the 14t step front mechs are the missing link for finding solutions for new builds of rigs with boost spaced rear ends and wide chainlines. The 14t step on granny/big 2x BCD cranksets gives the options to pair with grannies 22, 24, 26 and 28. So I've been saying how 28/42 is surely something that has demand from 'gravel' type riders and loaded tourers. And here you are! Bravo. I'm keen to see some video of 12 speed rear ends being combined and working with 11/10 speed front 2x sets. That gives guys like you, cranking the big gears on skinny tyres, that 10 at the rear. But a 12 speed build to try something largely untested is a big deal, and not necessary with your 28/44 range. It will be good to see those 16t step downshifts tested and what rear mech and 11-36 cassette you use. Road or mountain and length of cage on the rear mech. Like you say in this video, friction shifting is the key to opening up possibilities with the elimination of index pull ratio incompatibilities, so road and MTB groups can be mixed. (Like 12 speed Microshift thumbies on the wishlist.) So that's back to what I really liked about this vid, and a good place to say good luck and best wishes with the new build and all. Thanks again. Das Steel.

I think it is the same there, they need to try and cling on to something to get the tourists excited :) :)

And they don’t make them anymore. But I think other brands may do. Eg Velo Orange, dia compe etc.