Відео

@@teadrinkingilluminati9173 There are numerous methodologies, including getting a spec sheet from the manufacturer, which a google search will pull up. But the easiest way is to set engine to a fixed rpm, maybe 1500, and then change the number of squirts per cycle and adjust the dead time until the AFR does not change. So if normally you do 2 squirt per cycle then changing to 3 or 4 squirts should make no difference to AFR. But if it does, you know the dead time is wrong and throwing off the injector pulsewidth calculation. Adjust dead time while running until the AFR is stable at a couple different squirt counts.

@@Rmharnisch Unsure what you mean by spitting but when the oring fails paint leaks into the inside of the sprayer as well as air into the cup

@@karlosism Oh yeah I trimmed a bunch of the seal away and got it to fit ok. I recorded video of that, I should probably post it. You don’t see anything is trimmed because its on the back side where the adhesive goes.

@@tonyvtech25 Dead time is not the same as dead time voltage correction. If your injectors come with data specifying the dead time and voltage then set the base dead time to that value, then run through the procedure in the video to calculate correction. Set the table to have 0 correction at the voltage specified in the data. So for example if thats 0.055ms at 14v, then set your correction at 14v to 0 and then make everything in the correction table match the afr which shows at 14v. Then fix the rest of your tune fuel tables because those will now be wrong.

@@ryan_layne THANK YOU

@@melgueta1 It’s so silly I called them and when I told them it was ridiculous to not sell consumable parts they claimed it was not a consumable part when taken care of properly. When you buy a gasket or rebuild kit for just about anything else on the planet, what does it come with? Replacement seals. You bet your buns seals are consumables.

@@ryan_layne By the way, how is the o-ring seal working so far, and any other recommendations other than putting some grease on the piston?

@@melgueta1 I only used the thing one more time since then and its still functional. The main thing is to use their blue fluid they want you to keep in the system while not in use. That will also keep things lubricated and moist.

Yes, the ECU needs to see the injector voltage changing and apply its dead time adjustment curve.

ECU has a direct wire to the battery as is always recommended

I ran a wire from the power supply back to where the ECU connects to the battery and then that wire goes all the way back up to the ECU. I just did that because it was easier than trying to back probe directly into the ECU connector

I know right it’s a baby snail… But this engine is not built to handle much more than what this turbo can put out anyways! I will be running only 10psi of boost probs.

You probably don’t have the same engine, i have 9.5:1 pistons with a 292 cam, which changes the tables completely. Just use your O2 sensor and autotune to dial it in, then use MegaLogViewer to offline dial the tune in the rest of the way. Tons of videos doing it with MegaSquirt which will translate fine enough to Speeduino.

If you look up the part num on your transistor you can see the pinout, voltage ratings, etc. Sounds like you may not have used the correct type of transistor. Note that this circuit can be tested without the relay just by checking to see if 5v is turning on and off 12v via the transistor. The coil in the relay is only there to generate a flyback voltage spike.

@@ryan_layne Thanks for your suggestion. Actually, I now started over and grabbed a 5 prong relay that I had lying around and first tested the whole schematic with components connected with alligator clips. It worked! So I soldered it within the relay case and it's all good and working 👌🏻

Glad you found it helpful… I would imagine you can do the exact same thing. Theres a power pin on the ecu and the injector harness can be bypassed

Chassis ground but make sure your voltage drop is neglegible between chassis ground and ecu, and chassis ground and injectors. Otherwise they readings and correction will be incorrect.

The motor powers a pump and the oriface is a fixed size, controlled by the nozzle insert you choose… So, pressure is a function of motor speed and nozzle size. The switch varies motor speed.

@@ryan_layneThank you! So will it go down to zero rpm? (anther reviewer had said this adjustment did not actually change the motor rpm) Asking because I am looking for a metering pump for paint - to dispense material as a controlled rate - not spraying, not painting.

@@SpaceCrete Uh no, it has 2 speeds. 1 or 2. When you pull the trigger, it's on or off. Pretty sure it's just a 120v universal motor so you should be able to drive it with DC as well, and use any DC speed controller to control speed pretty precisely by varying voltage, providing the controller is rated for the voltage. That said, if you want a metering pump then you really have a lot of better options out there. There are all sorts of low voltage DC fluid pumps on amazon that only cost a few bucks, vs the hefty price Graco charges for the pump unit alone in these things.

@@ryan_layneThanks! Oh, you have the 2-speed. The problem is the material to meter is like a thick paint, and metering pumps that handle that are pricey. I have not been able to control the speed of several airless units with any kind of speed controller - otherwise they work great. Looking for an off-the-shelf product that will work for a particular DIY application.

@@SpaceCrete Have you tried hooking the motor directly up to a benchtop power supply and varying the input voltage? Universal motors should be just that easy to control. The caveat is they are pretty low torque at low RPM so they will stall out under pressure at low voltages. A stepper or a closed loop BLDC motor would be good candidates for low speed high torque control. All these things are pretty cheap and readily available parts, so maybe you can replace the motor of an airless sprayer with one of those if you have sprayers/pumps already.

To the nearest available ground wire in the harness.

I don't, sorry, but as demonstrated it is quite easy to intrinsically arrive at the correct values for these numbers. I am of the opinion that this is even better than knowing the theoretical characteristics of injectors. Unless the factory tests your specific injectors at your specific fuel pressure, etc, it will almost certainly be slightly wrong to use their numbers. If you instead use this method to determine your dead time, you will arrive at the precise correct number you need for consistent running on your car.

Raspberry pi center console communicating over serial to an arduino. Arduino controls the servos, etc.

Controlled by an arduino nano. 5v maintained by an R/C UBEC. It’s just an amazon special high torque servo. Pretty uniquitous and cheap. They all run on 5v anyways so just calculate the torque you need and find one that fits.

Yup, though these engines tend to push oil out the dizzy, especially under high crankcase pressure (boost), so i may end up drilling and tapping a hole in the timing cover and putting a sensor there. Then add a trigger wheel to the front of the cam shaft gear.

@@ryan_layne should be more accurate too. The m10 is also notorious for having a lot of play at the distributor gear

@@loganpalmer663 My distributors are tight like a tiger.

The part number and website name is stated in the video

So far no issues, but only used it once since. The part i think is exactly the same in every way as the stock one. It looked and felt the exact same and the PN i chose I made sure was chemical rated for all the chemicals you put through paint and paint cleaning. I am hoping it will continue to last and will post an update in a while after more time and use.

Unlikely since the purpose of this is to emulate being connected to a coil, but you already have it connected to a coil.

The new HEI module has a tachometer output wire also that can be utilised, would I need to connect the module to this instead? Tia

@@johnnypellegrino4581 Did you switch to a different coil from stock when you installed the hei?

Yes, the new HEI comes with module , coil and distributor. Currently I am using a aftermarket tachometer which is connected to the module tacho output wire and works fine. Same wire connected to my original tacho, the needle is erratic .

@@johnnypellegrino4581 Try using the original coil if you can. If that works then the inductive pulse of the new coil is too different from original and old tach doesn’t like. If that’s the case then my hack might work. Costs very little to try.

Not a clue… i only know about 2002 distributors sorry

You don't use EDIS. Speedy supports connecting to any ignition system, and controls all the timing, etc, itself. No need for such a thing as EDIS to be in the middle. I was running a ford wasted spark dumb coil (2 coils, 4 posts), and a coil driver (igniter) in between it. Speedy sends the signal wire high/low to charge/discharge the coils. I just finished converting to individual LS coils which are smart coils with internal ignitors. So speedy is direct driving those.

@@ryan_layne Ah I see, thank you very much for the reply. Which LS coils did you go with?

@@ttt69420 Uh... I think they are LS3 coils? Ripped them from the junkyard, off of a V8 truck. Pulled off the harness and pigtail and made wiring super clean and easy. I am gonna post a quick short video of it soon actually. Meant to do that a few days ago but got busy.

@Ryan Layne Did you also wire the relay to ground and constant power to the other pins as well? Most writeups online only show 86 and 85 populated.

It probably depends on your software but I believe that is the case in at least some of them. The ECU just has to be able to know which of the 360 degree crank rotations is intake stroke for #1 cyl right?

@@ryan_layne Its Megasquirt, I think cam position sensor has to trigger before TDC. Will check in the manual again.

That means using custom hardware though right? And that means the sensor sticks out the top making the unit higher profile. My goal was to flatten it down as much as possible.

@@ryan_layne it also means a replaceable cam sensor if the sensor fails rather than have to remake this entire unit. This one looks very nice though. I am going efi very soon so I'm just seeing what others have done.

@@XiseTK The way this thing is made… it’s no wonder it still works after 30 years, and I honestly doubt it will break under normal conditions. It’s pretty simple… no integrated electronics like modern stuff.

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4996458

@@ryan_layne thank you!!

Wrong trigger settings.

@@ryan_layne is ckp signal with Arduino one?

Not sure i understand the question? My issue was with settings in tunerstudio. It was set up for wrong trigger setting so it was ignoring the crank signal

Believe it or not, yes. I am about to try putting some alu shims in the mount to stiffen it up. I don’t want to go poly because they just crumble.

Did it work?

Hi. Unfortunately it didn't for me. @@061garage

If your current tach hooks up to the negative terminal on the coil, then you will not destroy your tach. If it does not hook up to the negative terminal on the coil, you probably do not need this circuit at all for your tach to work and simply a pulsed 12v signal is probably enough.

I don’t know but I would suspect the lower voltage rating might be cutting it close. The flyback voltage is supposed to spike up to close what that is rated for. They are so cheap, why not try it and see if it blows out?

@@ryan_layne Yes, I think it's a good test. Wouldn't I risk the processor though?

Hmmm... i donn’t think thats very likely. You could add a protection diode between the processor and the transistor to be sure?

@@ryan_layne Yes, perfect, will do that then! Thank you very much for the tips and congratulations for the nice work and video!

@@marioturbo1 did it work?

Dang I just saw this... It did not work well enough. Too much blowby and tighter clearances would catch preventing the valve from returning. I went a different route, but my next idea what to use a ball and a diagonal cage so it could seal better without needing tight clearances.