Відео

Nice DIY !!

excellent review ... Thankyou !!!

I tend to mount the printed markers on chipboard. I’ve also seen people using printable stick paper too, never tried that.

excellent video that is indepth and very fun to watch thankyou!

The same method I use, it works great. I don’t use spray adhesive indoors.

I should probably do an update to this video as I have changed a few things in my counter making process.

What I found makes for something interesting is double sided foam tape. I put counter back on one side and then mount to so blank side of index card is on other side. For postcard wargames with minimal counters, the extra thickness is good.

Only issue I see with this is getting the back of the counter to match up exactly.

What thickness of cardboard to use? I'm thinking about a thickness of 1 or 2 mm.

Those look great. Making double sided counters are especially difficult.

The method I use is to print the counters on full sheets of peel and stick label stock, then mount the sheets on chipboard and cut them out; you can also buy cheap scrabble tiles and mount the counters on those

Are there laser printers that can print the front and back of counter sheets at the same time.?

Good Job. A Question. Any progrmam to make the "desing"? Usually i use Excell, useful but no "pretty". Thanks

Can you scan the rules and put it on Boardgamegeek and/or direct to the print n play edition

Your counters look very good. If you use photo quality paper on an ink jet the effect will be very nice as well, however always keep away from water. You can spray sealer over your counters and I use to do this many years ago, but I don’t do this anymore. Also the photo quality paper will resist any soaking effect from the glue. As for scissors, I found dressmaking scissors are very good for cutting very thick cardboard. I normally use 1.75mm thick cardboard, which is very thick but my trusty 10 ½ dressmaking scissors works very well. 2mm thick card is too thick. But the final effect will be counters as thick as any normal board game. Warning, these scissors are dangerous so keep in a safe place. Another option for gluing, which is harder and messier, is to use hardware quality outdoor PVA glue. You follow your suggested process but as soon as you have glued the paper on the cardboard you place between two books and put a heavy weight on top of it. It takes 24 hours to fully dry. This bonds the paper to the cardboard so completely there is no chance of any separation. I normally use books which have been covered with a “contact”: plastic cover, as glue will not glue to plastic. I use to use a piece of Perspex in the old days and that works as well. Finally, you can have double side’s counters as long as you glue the correct rear side on the rear of the glues cardboard. As for creating counters, I just use PowerPoint. You can also use Open Office, which is free.

The SPI NAW (or B&G) game system is very good. Simple, but filled with interesting twists. I did a conversion of the game system into a figure gaming format and created a video on its development. The video describes most of the SPI games which use the same game system. ua-cam.com/video/5Fwp4bPoaQM/v-deo.html

Is a copy still available - even a scanned copy?

Where was the file with the counters??

Good video mate, shame you're not making these anymore.

Thasnk-you ... well done ... Bravo !!!

Strike Force one is a underrated game for those wishing ro learn hex and counter wargaming. This game has a small footprint, minimal counters, and simple rules, and solo's very well. Nice explanation and playthrough thanks.

C3i mag now has a new edition of a Waterloo game which is a starter game.

Great video sir. How do you print the counters on the index card stock? Your counter sheet did not look bent like after it goes through a typical printer? Thank you.

A couple years after sub'ing to S&T, I received a small NAW add-on. A few counters and a table to be used after a couple of turns -- like one was "two French x-y appear at ccrr on turn N". Was that included in the later editions?

Thanks for the time-travel! Waterloo, Sinai, Seelowe and Normandy were my introduction to SPI in 1973. Still have my 1.99 copy of Sinai! Our local games shop was so low as to sell us this game but we did not know it was meant to be free!! We were 11 years old of course..

Just got into this great game. I like your very detailed report.

... EXCELLENT - thorough - Thank-you for speaking slowly !! ... "where is Grouchy ???"... indeed !!! ... that scenario(s) is critical - Napoleon sent 30% of his army away which did not "march to the sound of the guns" ... had they done so, Napoleon would likely have been victorious ... the time when Grouchy enters the fray is huge - other scenarios with different time frames would be fun ... Thanks again .

What website did you print them from?

Hi where I can find the corner cutter... Whats the name?

Hi where I can find the corner cutter... Whats the name?

Thank you! BTW do you have parkinsons? My father sadly had this.

I wonder what would have happened if Israel lost the war. Would Europe have a higher Jewish population and would Israel be run by Islamic not Jewish law today?

I find it curious that towns provide no defensive benefit.

Does the 2014 Decision Games version come with a variant like the Blucher one?

does anybody think that spraying them with a light coat of semi-matte varnish before cutting them is a good idea in order to protect them?

Nice video mate! The counters look really nice and solid. I've just begun to get into the print and play thing did a few trial runs (for some reason it's really hard to find card stock in my town oddly enough, but I got by). I got myself a round corner punch on ebay and I'm ready to do some handiwork. It's interesting to see different methods although yours seems very interesting. I have one question though, do you experience warping of the paper with this method, if you do how do you counter it?

I use a rotary cutter (Olfa or Fiskars) which allows for better control and less hand fatigue than scissors or a plain blade. You need a good straight edge (transparent acrylic is better than metal) and cutting board, both of which are also made by Olfa and Fiskars. Also, you might want to look into a dry adhesive, which has no noxious fumes, no soaking, and allows for better control when using doing doule-sided counters.

I followed your instructions and just finished making my own counters, they turned out great! I used 4 ply Bristol board as the backing material and printed on 110lb card stock using a colour laser printer, fantastic results. I couldn't find 3M Super 90 but got my hands on Super 77 instead which I think is quite adequate. Thanks for the tutorial video!!!

I look forward to watching your videos, as I am too diving into the world of wargaming and learning the ropes. My first real wargame was Battle For Moscow, and really enjoyed it. It reminded me of when I was younger and played similar style strategy games on PC, but never really knew there was a world of hex-and-counter wargames until I became an adult.

Great show-and-tell video. As a new wargamer, I really appreciate being able to see the different print versions. Thanks!

Very nice vid on the first SPI game I played. I wish I still had some of the old SPI games that I gave away 15 years ago! Anyway, thanks for putting up vid, and nice to see you back!!

Great stuff thanks! Would love to see a vid on designing counters in indesign and photoshop!

Nice Channel! I hop you keep it up!

Yeah! Israeli Independence is awesome! Finally won a game. Heh. Great review. Excellent walk through of the game. Napoleon at Waterloo is fun and frustrating. I have played several games on HexWar.net and am always surprised by how quickly things can turn. Lookin' forward to your insights. Keep up the awesome videos! Really enjoy them.

Great choice for your early wargaming curriculum! I pulled out Israeli Independence last month and, after playing, wished I had experienced it earlier on in my education. I still lost, though! Really looking forward to Napoleon at Waterloo. I think you'll have a great time with it.

Thanks for these thorough videos on SF1. I am new to wargaming and am learning with this game also.

Wow! Those look great! Well done! Really enjoyed this video. You mention a color laser printer over ink jet. Have you tried photo paper on an ink jet? I've had pretty good success getting nice glossy or semi glossy looking prints on that kind of paper on ink jets. Something to try. Your laser printer counters look amazingly good. Are you gonna try and get large scale maps printed and mounted on thick bristol boards? Maybe some kind of paper tape or something to connect them. Ahh, maybe have layers where it's board, then tape, then board, then map. That way, the map is nice and smooth on the board. This way, you can have sections of the board printed out on 8.5 x 11 inch paper like you do for your counters, and then stitch them together in a folding map. Hmmm. I wonder if others are doing stuff like this with maps. I use fingernail clippers to cut the corners on my counters. I can go through 'em pretty fast. It does look like your corner cut tool and a razor blade does the trick too. Hope you have a great weekend!

Another awesome video! Nice job trimming your chits too. Regarding the Soviet random events table: I was wonderin' about the "g". Nice checking with Alan. Heh. Font error. Love it. I recorded my games plays on BGG. I did run into a rules clarification on "Enemy SNAFU and Command Problems" that Alan and Kim of VPG answered very quickly: boardgamegeek.com/thread/1231750/sfo-expert-expansion-enemy-snafu-and-zoc BTW, a little technique I use to keep track of what units have moved (or attacked) or not is to rotate the chit 90 degrees, primarily so you can still see the piece for planning. This way, it's visually obvious which piece has moved. This is great for the night turn as well (instead of flipping). I also rotate pieces that have been eliminated and off the board to keep track of this if they can come into play later by a random events table roll. Interesting how you had similar outcomes of Esselben being the central focus as I did in my games. You had an opportunity to use the surround enemy with ZOC to force elimination tactic in the playthrough on Esselben, turn 4, moving unit A south to hex just North of Esselben. Even though the piece can't attack, it still exercises ZOC). It's all good. Definitely keep that in mind in your tactical planning to set up those situations. In some games, that's the only way to eliminate units. Nice touch with the game observations and corrections. It's always good to go through a review and put together the after action report of how things could be better. Also really appreciated the talking through the thought process. The scenarios are really cool. I wish VPG would make more! I've read that Alan's students come up with different ideas. Maybe those or some other folks can post theirs in the BGG Variants forum for SFO. Really enjoyed all the time and effort you put into the video. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work!

Hey hey! Welcome and great job puttin' up the channel. I too have been getting into wargaming and Maymi was a great source of inspiration to dive in and get things going! I watched your SFO videos, and look forward to hearing how your journey goes! If you're interested in playing SFO on Cyberboard, or Drive on Metz on VASSAL, lemme know. Been lookin' to see if anyone's interested in playing online. I've played some Napoleon at Waterloo (NaW, not very good at that one, though) on Hexwar.net too. I've played many games of SFO basic, advanced, and expert rules. Really fun game. I'm going through The Drive on Metz now. Wonder if you'll have similar observations on the game, especially on the victory conditions. Be sure to put links and check out the wargaming section on BoardGameGeek. Great community. I even got some rules clarification from Alan Emrich and Kim Meints from VGP on an SFO expert rules question. Really a great community. I think you'll enjoy it. The most important thing I've found is just to sit down and do it. Play, go through several games and see how things work. I've been writing my games down in a commentary fashion and they read like interesting stories of battle. Play, laugh, learn, enjoy. That's what it's alllll about.

Great video on SFO Advanced Rules. Lookin' forward to your Expert Rules review. Love the expert game expansion. A lot of fun. Be sure to link your videos on the BoardGameGeek games for SFO, and the Expert Expansion (in the "Videos" section of the game page). :-) BGG links are: boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5960/strike-force-one and boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/34854/strike-force-one-expert-game-expansion. Have a good one and may your military command provide something other than "as planned"!