Відео

thanks for the heads up.

No scan tool I used my laptop and a j2534 pass-through device. For all Programming questions go on nastf.gov

Tried to make a longer video without making it boring. thanks for the support.

I have no regrets turning in all my snap on electric tools and buying these.

@ i dont blame you. Snap on is not 8-10 times better performance. Just 8-10 times the cost

I agree thanks for the support

haha she be vibrating out of your hands man haha

my launch and autel have issues with old dodges and some other makes i have a 2 videos where my autel let me down on a couple vehicles. Plus i heard snap on sue autel for stealing their info. I have to use it all the time on subys. I had a 1994 in two months ago that the only thing i could get to communicate was the verus and all the info for testing was on there too.

i've used it a lot in the short time i have had it and it definitely doesn't mislead your diagnosis as long as you are not trying to use a amp clamp to follow the draw. Especially since on a lot of draws now a days follow the amp draw may lead you down the wrong path anyways. for instance on this vehicle if you sat and waited for the draw to happen you would of found that the lights were the draw, but the light were being turned on due to this bad module waking up the can bus causing the lights to come on many hours after car has gone to sleep.

I don’t use an amp clamp. I’ve found the voltage drop across the fuses method to identify circuits that are drawing power to be an excellent method to track them down. Since that device is supplying power back through to the fuse box through at least the the dlc fuse, at least that fuse will show a voltage drop across it that normally wouldn’t be there, as well as everything in its path back to B+, until it can loop back to the normal circuit loads that the draw may be on. A quick look at the power and ground schematic would let you know what you can expect and where since you’re supplying power at a different point in the entire circuit. If the actual draw just happens to be on the same fuse as the dlc fuse circuit, you may overlook it at first.

@@BlainesGarage Good point ill make sure to keep it in mind when testing. Making a good point to check wiring diagrams before pulling fuses and having to put the vehicle back to sleep, or going after a red herring.

like 30 bucks haha

yeah she crusty

It's all in the eyes of the beholder here its gucci for mechanics. If you have enough money for gucci your not a sucker but if you don't and are buying it on credit than you are a sucker for sure.

You do realize the insane mark up on these tools when harbor freight sells them? Your playing the same game

on what?

I guessed gmail and if so check your email

How can i message you to get your address?

@Kennystoolreview I keep leaving comments with contact info and they keep getting deleted.

cje529

Made a facebook account message me on facebook facebook.com/kenny.stoolreview/

i guessed gmail if that's a gmail i sent you an email.

Thanks for your support

Hello Kenny. I left my email address in a comment, which I’m assuming you removed the comment. I’ve checked my email but i haven’t seen a reply from you. Just checking to see if you have replied to the correct address. Thanks.

UA-cam is removing the comments not me just message me through facebook facebook.com/kenny.stoolreview/

sent you a email.

The fix is in the video, one wire melted to the f-can between the ecm and the can splice pack. pulling signal high when key is on. I never did hook that wire back up to prevent it happening again. Couldn't verify what it went to and everything worked, and customer hasn't returned.

I like having all the same batteries and chargers for all me stuff.

fantastic money well spent

if i had to buy a new one out right i would still be saving money compared to snap on.

good to know ill put a new video out after testing it out a while to see if i notice anything while using it. i mostly only use this for wheels.

nice

I probably said something like a bad secondary can cause a bad primary. Basically what i mean is always replace your spark plugs and wire when you find a bad coil to prevent the new coil from going bad due to high resistance in the secondary. The secondary refers to any part of the system that handles high voltage. So the spark plug, wire (if equipped), and part of the coil (secondary winding) are all part of the secondary. The primary is before that and is what causes the spark in the secondary. The primary and secondary windings in the ignition coil do not touch the do all this through the collapse of a magnetic field. if the secondary is bad then the spark/ high voltage will have no where to go. All this high voltage will soon cook the driver that is inside the coil causing its failure.

its comes with 4 speed settings and one of them is a gear reduction mode for more torque when you need it. And the batteries matter.

Do it bro I bought my ultra torque when I was 20 or 21 and it’s been awesome ever since and I’m turning 24 in January. It beats everything

Thanks guys I bought the 1/2 and boy is it much stronger than I expected. I have 2 5ah and one 12v 2ah for the electric ratchet. Just bought a 3/8 impact, looking to get that 12v 1/4 next lol 😂 I love them

I have one, I love mine

i think they do but not Hercules

I'm with you on that, I've constantly left comments everywhere about a jigsaw that's now coming out in the spring.I guess I'll have to start leaving comments for an inflator. It's kind of aggravating to see a bigger lineup with the cheaper bauer. Bauer has everything under the sun you would think Hercules would have the same. The bauer electric ratchet is rated for like 240ft lb manual, the hercules just pretty much says don't do it.

good stuff

The impact driver is nuts it's almost too powerful for what I use it for

Great Deal

I'm editing a update video on these right now, but well worth. They have bundle deal when buying tools, batteries and chargers together. You can even pick what length warranty or not. Don't need a receipt for returns or warranties either.

In mass the just cant grind into the inspection bay.

@ lol. Yeah, you don’t want that. In PA, anything less than 2/32” brake lining fails. PA Inspection can get expensive if you drive a piece of shit. But i’ve heard that some states that don’t have safety inspections, the insurance is outrageous. With my clean driving record (3yrs or more with no infractions or points) i pay around $20/month for basic liability.

Thanks for sharing

thanks

It must be an issue on these MAF sensors the new part number is different.

haha i got over it.

Blue point is the best for me so far not to expensive either seem to be about the same as most kits.

Shows How durable they are. 10 out of 10 recommend!

awesome keep an eye out for the 100 subs video. currently @ 65 shouldn't be long now.

actually on those older ones they had no cabin filter and the evaporator would get cover with stuff and stop air flow across the evaporator causing no a/c this is more for the newer fords.

awesome

check out video of new scope

for some makes others i never seem to replace. mostly chevy and ford.

used it a few times today works great

appreciate the support.

Hopefully soon

Maybe i got a bad one but its pays to have the extra juice. Definitely noticeable.

@@Kennystoolreview I agree,especially for the price not being much more.

wow

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion

@@nicholasbrown6481 that's basically what I was saying was my opinion. Not putting no one down or anything for it. Just giving my thoughts.

Hey man snap on makes there electric stuff in China same as everyone else. I like to mix and match.

@@Kennystoolreview not snap on fan either. Not looking at where they build looking at quality of the materials used

@@shepherdsfleetservicesllc8147 Naw i like snap on have lots of it. just dislike the performance of there electric stuff for their prices.