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Interesting video, but camera work terrible, too jerky and out of focus a lot of the time. Think a tripod would be good idea.

I like that CNC miller, I used to work at the old Clarkson milling cutter factory.

So the rebore worked?

Boa tarde Bob, meu nome é Paulo sou do Brasil, tem um vídeo em seu canal que esta desativado o comentário, o vídeo "Using A brush On Nickel Plating Kit for the first Time.", eu gostaria de aprender fazer aquela técnica para fazer em instrumentos de sopro, saxofone, trompete, poderia me ajudar - meu e-mail: paulorogersan@gmail.com USANDO O GOOGLE TRADUTOR Good afternoon Bob, my name is Paulo, I'm from Brazil, there is a video on your channel that has no comments, the video "Using A brush On Nickel Plating Kit for the first Time.", I would like to learn that technique to do in wind instruments, saxophone, trumpet, could you help me - my email: paulorogersan@gmail.com

always thought that using a bolt and nut is the better method to remove & replace valve guides.....much better that a hammer

That will do the job, but it is a lot of work for a O-Ring groove, and you will not make a profit unless you charge too much. :) (I do have a ton of exp and formal education, a pro here with most machining.) The whole idea of a high speed spindle is to be able to increase the feed rates, (chip loads actually stay the same) for quicker production. You need to use coolant or at least a Mist, or as you found out, the cutter flutes will clog up with aluminum and break the cutter. Personally, I would not use one for small numbers of pieces to machine, but could be pretty good for production of small parts, (with coolant and faster feed rates.). I have this machine, (running right now behind me. porting little 2-stroke cylinders), for these reasons. I am running production, but I have to hand finish them, and that takes longer than my cycle time. I usually run a .125" solid carbide Ball Nose End mill, and with coolant that thing can run in aluminum to about 20,000 rpm with coolant of course, and with .004"/rev chip load, (.001"/flute) on a 4-flute cutter, a feed rate of 80 inches per minute, (and the newer drives will do that). So that is great for production. I run mine at 3500rpm and it won't clog the cutter with no coolant because it is not making enough heat at the slower rpm, so I run coolant free, (and I had table travel limit switch problems when I did use coolant), and I use the coolant tank to recycle my way oil, (works great, and I use a lot of way oil). I just got path pilot, (upgraded my 2007 Mach system last week), and I hand write al my programs, (Told you I was old school), but I have not tried to write a program with a sub routine in it. Here is how simple hand writing that o-ring groove really is with a sub routine. I will skip all the normal stuff and just get to the meat an potatoes. Main program (2" wide oval with 1" long straight sections. Straight sections along the x-axis, X&Y Zero is center of right radius. No cutter comp. Finish passes would be the same with some slightly different values, (copy, paste, edit). cutter starting .005" above the part to .125" deep.) G90 MODE X0.0Y0.0 G0 X0.0Y-1.0 M98P101L13 (M98 call up sub routine) (P101 = sub routine program number below this M30, can have several sub routines like for the finish passes too, I start at 101) (L13 = 13 passes at .010" deep, programed in the sub routine.) This block skips the rest of the main program to find sub routine O101, (my label) under the M30., and will enter the main program where it left off when the sub routine is done. G91, (I leave this) G1X-1.0 Y0.0 (I delete the Z move) G90 (back to absolute) G2X-1.0Y1.0R1.0 G1X0.0Y1.0 G2X0.0Y-1.0R1.0 two bottom passes if you want G91, (I leave this) G1X-1.0 Y0.0 (I delete the Z move) G90 (back to absolute) G2X-1.0Y1.0R1.0 G1X0.0Y1.0 G2X0.0Y-1.0R1.0 G90 (make sure you return to this G0Z3.0 M5 M30 sub routine (THIS IS ONE LAP AROUND THE O-RING GROOVE) O101 G91, (incremental so I can use Z ramp) G1X-1.0 Y0.0 Z-.010 (ramps down Z-.010" in this line only per pass) G90 (back to absolute) G2X-1.0Y1.0R1.0 G1X0.0Y1.0 G2X0.0Y-1.0R1.0 M99 (It will repeat this cycle 13 times, then go back to main program. I copy and change this loop for the main program to flatten the bottom of the groove.) If you want to take a deeper pass, (like .020" deep for each lap), you would change the start Z height to Z.015, and the L value to 7. You can run that little .125 4-flute cutter with a .002" chip load at those depths easily, (.008" per revolution feed). So at my 3,500rpm, I will have a feed rate of 28 ipm, (I may use a bit of WD40 in the groove to insure a good finish) You can copy that and tweak it a bit in your machine. I know sub routines work like that in every machine I have used and the old Mach for the early 1100's. But i have not tried it yet with path pilot. It should. Oops, my machine is done. Gotta change parts. Doug in Michigan

I’m stripping my bsa wd m20 this autumn, any chance you could refurb the forks please?

Great video but next time I would love to see more details of the setup process.

Thanks for posting Bob - good to see some of the detailed work and effort that went into this.

Great work again..

Awesome bob,..

Neat video but less camera movement would be great!

That really is pretty impressive! The tripod is also a very welcome addition ;-)

Hi Bob - that induction heating is bloody impressive. Had me in stitches regarding the reference to starting a bonfire with the first attempt. Mistakes are all part of the fun, but not necessarily at the time they are made. Believe me - I know too.

Thanks for continuing to post these Bob - as a non-engineer myself I find these fascinating and hopefully they compliment my videos of the fitting/maintenance/mechanical of the engine/bike now complete and awaiting a first start.

I like your Vertex boring head. Vertex tools, despite being made in the far east are miles ahead of the cheap Chinese stuff. The boring head boring bars ? Can i ask where you bought them. I have a nice Criterion boring head and only have a few lathe boring bars for it, not ideal.

It doesn't look like there is much scope for bigger or thinner liners (therefore bigger pistons and larger capacity), and probably the only way to develop without a major re-design and re-tooling might have been a slightly longer stroke? By the way, do you think these engine parts are sand-cast or die-cast?

Great to see the back story on Angus's Fury engine . Thanks for uploading !

At least the barrel doesn't look like too intricate a shape to cast or machine up, if it is not wide enough for those crankcases.

Thanks for putting this together Bob. Just to add some clarification - the parts for this engine are not from a show Fury but from a stash of spares I have collected/purchased over the years. My show Fury with the empty motor is still in one piece as it left the factory and as purchased from Vale Onslow in 1993. Although the original intention was to use it as a basis to create a running example, it wasn't necessary as I could build a separate example so it's left as is as a piece of history as it was the publicity launch model at the Royal Lancaster Hotel in Nov 1970. Thanks again for this and all the help over the last few years - I couldn't have done this without yours and other's help.

Really interesting to see those raw unmachined castings being worked on, heaven knows how many more engine parts and other components were not saved from the scrap bin all those years ago. I thought BSA/Triumph built these bikes as 350cc to tap into a share of the market for the excellent Honda CB350 twin, which was I think one of the biggest selling bikes in the USA at the time. The Honda CB350 was produced as a roadster and a street scrambler, which is exactly how the Bandit and Fury 350's were to be produced. What a shame the project was abandoned, and I will never get the chance to own one. Anyway, I am a bit bored with my BSA unit singles, so I might just click on eBay and have to settle for a nice 1971-72 CB or CL350 Honda.

Great video,very interesting.

What ever happened to all the technical drawings from the bike factories like BSA, Norton and Triumph ? Were they just destroyed or what ?

Always a pleasure to see your work thank you

Lovely work, apart from the athletes arris. People don't realize the work involved in making things.

Thanks Bob. Learned a lot.

Thank You!!!!!!

Thanks for taking the time to give us a tour. You certainly have crammed a lot into the space!

I wish i had as much open space in my shop as you have in yours, some people just don't know when they are well off.😉

As they say a twist drill is only a roughing tool. People write scientific tomes about drill geomrtry but it mainly boils down to two sharp edges and a bit of relief. For smaller drills have you come across the DAG Brown four facet jigs, one is good for drills down to less than 1mm the other can be made for up to about 6mm, but as they are hand powered the larger sizes take more effort so other powered devices like yours are more use. Just a note but the shank of a drill is always smaller than the cutting end.

If i recall correctly some triumphs have cast iron guides in alloy heads. The were great to get out because you could snap the exposed part off, where the circlip groove was, and drive them through so you didn't risk scratching up the guide hole in the head by getting them out the way they went in.

That seemed remarkably tight for a cast iron head, assuming you were putting a valve guide.

Can you hold decent tolerance (.0002'“ or so roundness and taper) with the Tormach when boring these cylinders? I was thinking of replacing my older Kwikway boring bar and buying a 770 so I can do some prototyping as well. Thanks in advance for any insight.

A little bit short, that vid...

Hi Bob - Good to see your setup and good to see you back. Cheers Cliff

Sir, I found your engine by accident, I was looking at your Tormach engraving video when you mentioned the engine, and I had to see it. Your engine looks and sounds great. I have a PCNC 1100 with a Rapid Turn, also a Precision Matthews 12x36 manual lathe. I hope to do what you did. I'm a private pilot who now flies RC. The biggest engine I own is a 100cc 2 stroke, so when I look at your work I know what's possible with some perseverance. Thanks for the inspiration. Best wishes.

Bob, I have a 1927 OHV Humber in the United States. Not running, could you contact me at semihemi66@hotmail.com

I just put a long 1/2" rod through the opening in the stepper housing into the coupler, tightened the existing set screws and turned the rod with a pipe wrench. Thank you for the idea Bob, Lee

Maybe get a tripod. Interesting video, atrocious filming.

I've tried some similar jobs on my Tormach. It's a slow way to do it, and uses up cutters at an alarming rate to boot. I'd love to have a laser cutter, which is a much better tool for the job! But I don't have one of them, I have one of these.

You need to try fusion 360. That part could be drawn and gcode done in 5 minutes.

Really enjoyed that. Thanks Bob.

Correctly honed the marks must be sined curved - but nice work, anyway...

Hi Bob. This is great work. Looks exactly what I need - a points housing for my ML CMAK magneto on my 1928 New Imperial. Are you planning to make more?

Get a good Sunnen engine hone and see much better results. Those spring loaded toy hones do not work well but for quick and dirty rebuilds.

As Angus said, it,s good to see you back, Bob. It seems like a lot of work to make the wheel nuts. But you managed to make it work for you. You did a great job of setting up the tools, which i guess must had taken some time to do. I envy you do all this work, with the combination of the mill and the Rapid Turn together. On a side note, Bob. During your video, try to pause between movements of the camera. It is not easy to do UA-cam video,s i know, but if you just pause it will give you some time to re -organize yourself before continuing with the video. Also keep the video,s coming Bob. Would love to see maybe some outside the workshop video of the motorcycles themselves that you seem do a lot of work with. Thanks again for the video. All the best. Regards Peter.

Good to see you back Bob

Good job Bob. Hoping to see more from you soon. Very interesting motorcycle the BSA. They capture the interest of many at shows as well as out on the road. Thanks again for the video. Regards Peter.

Hi Bob. You have done a great job on the machining work. But the video could do with some improvement ?? When you start out on the video it was not going so well. At that point maybe you should have stopped and tried again, as you seem to have got a little lost. I know how hard it is to make UA-cam video,s that people might like to watch. It is a lot harder than what it seems i run into the same difficulties and some video,s that i have already posted are anything from ok to not to bad but not many are considered great as yet, still need more work. One big positive that you do a lot better than me is Editing. At the moment i am still doing my video,s Live, meaning un-edited which is very difficult for me to do sometimes. Would be good to see more from you i am sure you have improved a lot in the last year. Thanks for the video, hope to see more. Regards Peter.

I see at the start of your video, you walking out to your workshop , i guess it must be still morning as it seems still very cold. After seeing the size of your workshop makes me wonder how you can fit so much into one small workshop it must be very cramped in there ??? Thanks again for the video.