Відео

As a woodworker I have to ask,,, why would anyone buy one of these? Just make your own🤷

I love the colour of the timber

Which knife jig is this?

So good Chris! Its such a practical take on everything a spoon mule should be if it were compact and collapsible. Well thought out and so practical. ❤🔥❤️

Very useful for me to learn this info. So, now to search your followup video and see the difference the grind makes. What do you think of one sided bevels? As in flat on the left face for example, and a 25-30deg bevel on the other side?

Very well thought out! I hope you sell a lot of them!

Americans take guns to school and we go barefoot to the workshop! Bunch of wooses .

I like the design, but i'm a little confused about how it's used. At the risk of asking a dumb question, do you have to be sitting in a chair in front of it to operate the leg levers? I'm thinking that if I am sitting in front of a workbench, then this would be too high to operate a drawknife properly.

Thanks. Haven't seen a comparison before and looking at tidying up an old beater of a cheap hatchet. 👍

A legless mule assembled by a shoeless carpenter.

A little dab of tallow on those screws.

Very interesting design! Thanks for the idea!

I know nothing about spoon carving, but this looks smart and well made

Excellent design! Too bad you’re Down Under, I don’t think I could afford the shipping to the States. I wish you great success in selling this spoon mule! I could sure make a mess on our back patio table 😂. Perhaps one day you will sell the plans for us not in your country. Make sure you get copyrights and patents. It is sure to be copied! I just checked your website! How are you set up for American Visas? Do you use Apple Pay or Pay Pal to do the conversion? I imagine everything on your site is AUD. There’s a few things on sale I’d like to get as well which leads to another question on shipping in one box.

I tried Mora's 122 with the laminated blade. Within a short time of carving on a locust block, the tip lamination split apart. Contacted the seller and it was replaced promptly. But am left wondering if a laminated blade is all that and a bag of chips.

Thanks for the video, it's really helpful. Can you tell me the size and sweep of the gouge you're using?

Its plane to see they are not disposable after all that work. Not shown is how you made the starting billet. Those split apart disposable sticks in a paper sleeve you get in a restaurant appear to be stop cut with double bead cutter perhaps also shaved by hand. You hand tool only woodworkers must lead a quiet life.

Looks good!! Is there a link for these?

I just ebonised a whole lot of oak (Quercus robur) that I'm building a set of bookshelves with. I used this solution that you've made in your video, but I also made a secondary solution using finely ground dry oak leaves soaked in methylated spirits for a week or so to extract the tannins. I wiped that one on first, then followed it up with the steel wool in vinegar and it came up a treat - midnight black in minutes! I gave it a couple of treatments so it went really dark and I can't wait to see what it looks like under a hard wax oil when I finally get around to the glue-up and finish stages.

Do you prefer a center grind, a left side grind, or a right side grind, & why? Could you please explain the benefits of each, please.... for us beginners? Thank you!

THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the video Chris and Pete. I only have one 'Von Trott' tool (reg hook)... after seeing the shop and hearing about the travels I want a few more!!

Love this guys 👍 we need more videos like this

You cleared it up for me, thanks!

How to get a convex edge !

Good Day, thank you so much for patiently instructing me. I watched your two series videos, and I learned a lot. Blessings.

I have a couple of hatchets that I use for carving Greenwood as well as seasoned. They both have asymmetrical grinds on them. As I am right handed, the left cheek of the hatchet has a completely flat grind on it to plane the wood while the right cheek has a bevel on it for biting into the wood. Works beautifully

Terrific video, thanks! Any tips on the actual rim of the bowl in terms of carving direction? Would you consider making a video on it?

Maybe rust resistance for carving wet green woods?

Laminated meterials have usually weakness in terms of flexibility contrary to common belief.But it doesn't matter I touched to some wood with that little 120 that a sane person would only touch with an axe and not an expensive carving axe, a fireman's axe and in such a high feed that probably only a gasoline chainsaw can outclass and yhe the knife haven't bent.It was a laminated one and i will get the 106 as well if my wife won't slit my throat with the smaller one.Too many knives around , reclaimed wood chips around etc etc 😂 we will see.

I wanted a laminated 106 to match my laminated 120 and couldn't find a 106 laminated anymore. I could only find a laminated 106 blank, so I'm waiting for that to arrive to make a handle for.

I don't think Mora made the laminated steel to sharpen any easier. Besides, the Scandinavian sharpening in connection with the small blade makes sharpening a game. From personal use I find the 120 carbon better in tip retention. I find the Lauri PT 80 with the excellent 80crV2 steel to be the better of the two knives. Nice and objective presentation.

Thank you, it very useful and informative 👍

Laminated version is 2.7mm thick.The carbon version is 2.5mm thick.There is a diferens in carving and sharpening.I prefer the new version,never was a fan of laminated blades.But sayng there is no diference really pises me of,because there is diference.Never mind,a good video,thanks!

What sort of ‘belt axe’/‘bushcraft/survival’ axe or hatchet would you suggest for Smaller amounts of seasoned wood processing for fire prep? (a lot of dry Eucalypt laying around on the ground in Australia), particularly getting into the dry center of branches that may be wet on outside, and also cross cutting branches up to about 3-4 inches…rather than chopping down thicker trees where a strictly two handed axe may be necessary. I like the idea of some of the coldsteel tomahawks, but I’m wondering if something with more weight (how much?) would be necessary for processing enough wood for a small scale fire. I’ve heard tomahawk heads over a certain weight tend to snap the handles, but even in the US (with generally softer wood) I’ve seen some of the lighter tomahawks bouncing off wood. Although I mainly just want to chop dry branches to length and then split the wood down to kindling

If you were doing a lot of ‘bushcraft’ carving using dry Eucalypt/gum sticks (very hard wood but so plentiful around my area), mainly cutting various notches, toggles and shaving feather sticks for fine tinder etc What mora would you recommend for these tasks in the Australian bush but also practicing these finer bushcraft skills like doing ‘try sticks’ at home? Mors Kochanski recommended the Mora Classic as the best all-round ‘survival knife’ for all task from fire prep to making primative trap parts etc in the US/Canadian woods, but I want something more specific for carving than the larger tasks a ‘one-tool-option’ may also need to do to some degree, and also Australian woods tend to be much harder and knottier than woods in the US/Canada. I’m thinking a Mora 120 carbon rather than a Mora Classic carbon or Companion stainless which are more commonly used for all-round camp tasks? I imagine the shorter blade of the 120 would give better leverage through hard wood? Or would a Companion or Classic be just as effective but with more utility for regular use? (The rounded wood handle on the Classic and 120 looks comfortable for extended use) I could use other tools for food prep, use in salt water or for cross cutting fire wood etc Thanks for any suggestions advice

What angle is a draw knife blade sharpened to?

I am new in wood carving and your insights on the use of the bent gouge helps me understand the tool and gain respect the tool and not to abuse it. Your tips help me gain knowledge of the important relationships with the wood, the tool, and me the carver. Thank you so much, blessings.

el laminado es muy superior pero mucho mas caro de producir por eso lo estan retirando y dandole mas enfasis al de carbono pero no tiene ni punto de comparacion a la superioridad de el laminado

Spoon carving 🍼👶🍼

Great video!

Subscribed got your email about the competition🙏

Very interesting description you learn something new everyday thankful for the knowledge 👍👍

Cheers for the quick and informative explanation 👍

This answered so many questions. Thanks!

Really clear explanation - thank you!

Awesomeness, I have just entered this world of taming. Thank you for the products. Hopefully I am the lucky winner. Good luck everyone. 😅

Such an obvious difference in performance after the sharpen! I’m pretty inexperienced at this….I’ve been told that I should use carving tools on both green wood and dry wood. Is this true? Does the difference in wood effect the way you sharpen or care for the tools? Thanks in advance

I’ve often wondered what the difference is between a true carving axe and a bushman’s axe, very clear explanation, thank you 🙏🪓

So interesting! Thanks for sharing with us