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Good video, but your carbon monoxide detector is in the wrong place....CO drops....I'd recommend putting your detector closer to the floor....I don't think any noxious fumes will be detected with your unit in that location.

How was you able to relocate your lcd panel. Im wanting to relocate mine away from the heater just a bit. Could i just ise extra any wire i have around?

Have you seen the videos of people running the exhaust through a radiator? I was wondering if that will hurt the heater?

Yo thanks for the video. Im interested in the extra heater if your looking to get rid of it.

use power service additive for your diesel. thanks for the install advice, will be using it in my snowmobile trailer install.

The cooler that are in the combustion chamber the more oxygen less fuel. Plus if you are in taking are from the heated space then it is exhausting outside of the heated space. That will cause a makeup are issue. Whatever air goes through the intake outside through the exhaust will pull cold air to replace the are you removed from inside the building. Now the intake air that goes in the unit and over the heat exchanger should circulate throughout the heated area.

Hey Scott. Great video. On the Vevor controller press the right button longer than 2 seconds and it will change to Fahrenheit.

why buy one all the way in Wisconsin?

Greetings: 1) Correction - The device U call an "inverter", by I dustry trade association is officially named an AC/DC Power Supply. That 1 U have is a switching AC/DC Power Supply. 2) I like that U read the combustion output and current draws. 3) Yes it is originally from German design and devices used nearly 50 years ago. 1 company used in the USA was Espar. The units were installed in OTR CMVs. Custom RV applications were also utilized... usually 'pusher' units. 4) Since the 10+ current draw, small 8hr fuel capacity, and reluctance 2 store fuel amidst The warm area, I do not think this technology is good 4 camping, off grid, or extended portable use. The above criteria would chave 2 B considered and addressed. 5) Aside not addressing the min/max run time, parts replacement and maintenance, the rest of the presentation is well done. Thx 4 Ur time and share.

I made a parallel connector it’s a SAE splitter one goes to a marine battery the other goes to a small BLUETTI solar generator you let it start on the marine battery then once it starts turn on the solar generator and then unplug the marine battery and the reverse for shut down i know it is some extra steps but it allows you to use the solar generator

I have never seen a bigger piece of shit in my life 😂

Scott really knows his stuff. Thanks from Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿. Always shut you diesel heater down correctly.

Do you have any videos about how altitude effects em?

I once in awhile use that same eco flow power station . I got a power converter 180 watts , and it works fine ! For the combustion fresh air intake , yeah I agree ! That's why in boiler room we install louves for fresh cold air for the boilers . Gotta love all the UA-cam educated CDH experts ! 😂

The video should make a clear distinction between "combustion air intake" and "heat exchanger air intake".

A Bluetti AC200P has the 12V 25A socket on it. You need the special 2 pin plug for it. That will start these heaters. The plug is available online for about $12.

Obviously you do not live in a "cold" climate. Your motor will cease to function at about -25C. I have spent many late nights replacing my motor after I was woken up by a low temperature alarm in my shop. A brand new motor would only last a few hours then it would start to howl and then stop all together.

well said. Been looking at these things for a number of years but when the prices dropped I just had to get one to try out. An I do not have anything negative to say about them. Will make a great backup heat as long as you can keep it powered.

Thanks for the video. Would have been very helpful if you had put links to the key components.

I run my 8kw on my bluetti eb3a no problem I put 15 amp fuse in plug

Scottie can u let the clan know when u log on coc, im muted me for 2 days. Probably because I talk good about trump. Ice

Could you perhaps change the blown fuse in the cigarette lighter fuse receptacle!

Well this answers the age old argument about taking fresh air from outside or drawing stale warm air from inside. I like the car turbo analogy, I’ve got mine drawing cold air from outside. Great video

Hcalory (TB2) toolbox 2 arrives tomorrow ty for the info! Peace out home slizzeler 😂

Not before but my diesel heater Bluetooth only works about 10ft. Pretty disappointing...

If your dating yourself, dont forget to bring yourself some flowers!!

I have a couple of comments. First, what you are calling an inverter is actually a DC power supply. An inverter converts DC to AC NOT the other way around. Second, rather than try to use one of those expensive "power stations", simply buy a 12 VDC battery. A 50 amp-hr battery will do the job very nicely and will have sufficient surge capacity to start the heater with no issues. If you are traveling with it I would suggest a LiFePO4 battery. A Li Time or Redodo battery will set you back around $110, but it will do the job well with no extra wiring or other gadgets. You were a bit unclear about the fuel. Home heating oil is untaxed as is off road diesel. The untaxed fuel is dyed red. Road diesel from your gas station is undyed and has road tax built into the price. Locally here on the Maine coast, gas station diesel is about the same price as off road diesel/heating oil. Another factor is the sulfur content of the fuel. Gas station diesel is always ultra low sulfur (15 ppm sulfur maximum). Depending on where you live off road, untaxed, red dyed diesel/home heating oil may have a much higher sulfur content (up to 4,000 ppm). If you live in a part of the country where it is legal to sell higher sulfur off road diesel/home heating oil, you will be much better off buying undyed gas station diesel fuel. The sulfur in the diesel gets exhausted as various sulfur oxides AND sulfuric acid. A high sulfur fuel will produce much more sulfuric acid in the exhaust which will eventually destroy your exhaust tubing, As far as air intakes go, diesel heaters of this type have two air intakes. One is for heating air that goes through the heat exchanger and out the heating duct of the heater as hot air. You can draw this air from inside the the space you are heating since it is just recirculating inside air. The other air intake (the smaller one) is for combustion air and you should draw that in from outside since that is the air that goes into the burner and will be exhausted with the combustion products. Combustion air does not go through the heat exchanger. You can draw combustion air from inside the heated space, but as you mentioned that will cause cold air to drawn into the space via cracks, etc. Using inside air for combustion will be marginally less efficient because outside air will be colder and colder air is slightly higher density so the oxygen content of the colder outside air will be slightly higher than warmer inside air. The higher oxygen content will increase combustion efficiency. Also, since the combustion air intake goes directly into the combustion compartment, drawing it from inside the space will let some exhaust gas into the space after shut down. Your comparison with a vehicles turbo was incorrect. Combustion air that goes through a turbo is actually hotter than ambient air. It causes more efficient combustion because it is at higher pressure and thus has more oxygen per a given volume than ambient air. A turbo is an air compressor driven by exhaust gas flow. Compressing air heats it up and there is also heat conducted into the combustion air from the hot exhaust gas.

A practical solution to cover the current spikes is to use a lead acid battery in parallel with a weak power supply. Can be a bad, out of service from your car. It will still do the job.

9:34 as a mechanic I want to know what the F**K is a Carboator? You might be a 30+ years HVAC-R (I kind of doubt it) but I have 40 years of mechanical knowledge, and 40+ years of IT/Computer knowledge , and I am highly educated, if you are going to Put up text on a screen in an "educational" video make sure you know how to spell, at least Google things like Carburetor, so you dont look like a complete moron. I'll go watch videos with people who are educated.

where did you get the vent flashing to run the exhaust outside?

Awesome video thank you

Hey buddy I was thinking into getting a diesel heater, probably the vevor because it’s the best seller the furnace in my pop up camper went out and it’s too pricey to replace my only concern is the pipe it comes with is too short as I looked up vent pipes I ether saw the temperature rating is too low or they give off an odor was wondering what you would recommend for a safe replacement pipe I would like to fish it in threw the canvas and keep the heater outside

How do you judge the topic of exhaust pipe slope with a mobile diesel heater? I use mine for camping and have the exhaust via 180° bend pointing upwards. After every use, I remove the exhaust pipe for easy storage. My idea was, while the heater is running, the condensation will only happpen while the exhaust pipe is cold. The bit of water will evaporate once it is at operating temperature. Do you see any problems here? Do you see any problems with shortening the exhaust to approximately 8inch including a single 90° bend?

Great stuff, as always. It all makes perfect sense. ❤

This video is correct, but here is still massive confusion showing up in the videos people are posting. It seems people are super confused about the word "intake" and putting their return air intake for the blower fan outside too (or instead of the combustion intake)! That is NOT what this hvacr expert is saying to do! For those that don't know this: There are two air intakes. One for combustion air, a different one for the cold air air that will be heated, ie. the same air that will come blowing out the front of the unit. Two separate loops, each with their own "intake" and "exhaust", this is the whole purpose of the exchanger, to transfer heat without breathing combustion air. So you *want* the return air vent to be in your heated space, same way your forced air furnace is set up in your house! The air you breathe gets recycled through the non combustion side of this heater.

Thanks for the video! I was running mine all last winter incorrectly - I was taking combustion air from inside my building (an old barn). I figured no problem because I my barn is far from air tight. I didn't take into consideration cold air for combustion. Plus drawing inside air burns anything in the air like sawdust and aerosols from finishes and paint. I'm going to follow your suggestions for outside combustion intake and the spacing you recommended. Hope to get more BTU's out of it this winter.

Hi can I vent this on my garage door?

I love your videos, congratulations.

Hello, greetings. Could you make a video where you give a tutorial on how to enter the display settings. For example, setting the time and making all the settings for the Vevor heater. Thanks.

I have the same Vevor diesel heater and that control panel is just for the basics up down heating. Anything else and it is just totally confusing. The other Hcalary type is far better. By the way you can swap those controllers over or buy one with the same plug from the internet Hcalary rotary dial type. The plugs fit and works no problem runs that Vevor far better.

I am not finding a link on that power supply…..

I own a Rubicon here in Germany since one week and I don't regret this decision. I absolutely love this car!

Ecoflow DC is only 8A, output every other brand power Gen is 10A

Wow this was incredibly helpful. I have the River 2 Pro as well... I guess while using for roof top tent, you have to run the wires to the power station up in the tent to keep it warm? Also don't need to worry about blowing a fuse with the AC DC converter? Thanks 👍

I just got the exact same JEEP! Love it!

I'm on the look-out for an OEM steel bumper that some Rubicon owner has removed to make way for an aftermarket bumper - seem like the best way to get a winch mounted on my Willys while being able to keep the factory fogs, recovery points, and all that on the cheap - and still look relatively stock. Just got the Jeep back in August - love it so far. Having a vehicle with a winch is nice, the old WARN I plan on mounting is sitting in a hitch-mount cradle. I had it set up to mount on the front or the rear of my old '82 scrambler, as well as the rear hitch of my 2wd pick-up for things like pulling up fence posts or helping with trimming trees....and occasionally pulling people out of a ditch. Gonna be nice when it's all mounted up - piece of mine when traveling off-pavement and also ready to go if someone needs help.

Thank you for making this video. I was about to buy the 55. But now I see it will not work in my Wrangler.

Hey what did you use to mount the shovel? Was looking for something for a hatchet shovel and maybe shower system.

Fantastic Very informative

Really helpful video