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I do not remember after all these years. But I wouldn't be at all surprised if they didn't use the wire gauge that they should have on a cheap product like this.

Glue will not make an electrical connection. The proper way to fix it would be to strip the insulation back a bit on the wire, if necessary, and re-solder it with a soldering iron. But I'm guessing you don't have a soldering iron. You might be able to just strip the insulation off the wire a little, and wrap it around the lead on the LED, and maybe wrap a piece of tape around it to hold it in place. Not ideal, but it might work.

You are not the first one to say they have issues with removing the screws. But I've never had this happen, so it is hard to give any suggestions without being able to look at your laptop. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks for watching.

I think it probably isn't possible. I was hopeful for a minute when I found the service manual online at: dl.dell.com/content/manual11337684-inspiron-14-7420-2-in-1-service-manual.pdf?language=en-us becuase in the section on how to remove and replace the battery it shows both 3 and 4 cell batteries. But if you look at the picture of the one with the 3 cell battery, there isn't room for a 4 cell battery. There are big speakers filling the space at each end. I don't know which one you have, but if you already have the 4 cell version there is no bigger battery to upgrade to, and if you have the three cell version there is no room for a 4 cell battery.

Toward the end of the service manual is a section called "Technology and components." In that section is a sub-section called "Battery" where it says The Inspiron 15-7569 is shipped with the following battery options: • 3-cell 42 WHr smart lithium ion • 4-cell 56 WHr smart lithium ion That was the only clue I had that maybe I could upgrade the battery. I ended up looking at what kind of 4 cell battery dell used in other Inspiron laptops at the time and took a gamble on buying one that seemed to be used in similar models. Check out page 126 of the service manual here: dl.dell.com/topicspdf/inspiron-15-7569-2-in-1-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf

If you are looking for a direct replacement (not an upgrade) then matching the voltage and the watt hour capacity are what matters. (And to make sure it will fit inside and connect properly.) The watt hour rating is what tells you how long it will run. Modern batteries can put out so high of a maximum current that they don't usually specify the current rating. If the battery is similar it will be able to put out way more current than the device needs. This does not hurt the laptop, it will only draw the current it needs. Now if you are trying to do an upgrade like I did here, the voltage will not be the same. The 4 cell battery has a higher voltage than the 3 cell battery. The higher voltage CAN damage a device that isn't designed for it. But modern electronics often use what is called a "switcher supply" that can adapt to different voltages by drawing power in rapid pulses. Give it a higher voltage and it just draws a pulse less often or draws shorter pulses, so that the average power is the same. But you need to be sure your device is capable of doing this. I was confident my laptop could because the service manual said it was manufactured with either a 3 or 4 cell battery. The other thing that could prevent an upgrade is that batteries often have a chip inside that contains information about the battery, and the device will read that information. If it doesn't match, the device might say "Nope. I don't know what this battery is and I'm not going to use it." So there are a lot of things that have to line up right for an upgrade like this to work.

The motherboard has what is called a "switching regulator." Since I first learned about switching regulators I've thought they are one of the coolest things in electronics. They work by pulsing current from the source (the battery) into capacitors. The switching regulator changes the width of the pulses to adapt and put just enough current into the capacitors to keep them at the voltage that the device needs. If the device (the motherboard) uses more power, it will suck down the voltage on the capacitors a little as it does so. The switching regulator sees that it isn't quite keeping up and will widen the pulses of current it dumps into the capacitors to bring the voltage back up. If the motherboard uses less power, the capacitors will start to build up voltage and the regulator will back off the time of the pulses it dumps in. So in an ideal world no power is wasted. In the real world the regulator does lose a little power in the regulator components. But this is much less loss than the older method of a "linear regulator" that literally burns up the voltage difference as heat. With a linear regulator you wouldn't get any additional battery life because the voltage difference is just wasted by the linear regulator.

Usually you can find special screwdrivers or screwdriver bits for all of these weird security screws online.

tell the serial no of battery to dell support .they will tell you whether local or original

I know nothing about this model and Asus doesn't have a service manual online that I could find quickly, so I can't say if a battery upgrade is possible.

I do think the blue colored component adjusts the frequency, but I don't think you'll fix the problem by adjusting it. I'd get a bright light and a magnifying glass and look for cracked solder joints and re-solder any you find. If that doesn't fix it, your best bet is to do what I did years ago. Buy a new remote, but not one of these. I quit using these Craftsman remotes and bought a cheap one on eBay. Just search for keychain garage door remote. Make sure you check the color of the learn button on your motor unit and buy a remote that says it can program to an opener with the matching learn button color. I don't really want to post a link to one here because in a month the link will end up bad anyway. The one I got has a chrome finish around the sides, a back face and back, and one round button in the middle, and cost me about $12 online. It is smaller, better built, and has worked great for a long time. The disadvantage is that it has only one button, but I didn't need more than one. If you do need to open more than one door there are versions with more than one button.

@@cdsmith thanks I got it working again, solder point were battery makes contact was worn out. Still can't figure out what that adjusting screw is for???

The battery has worked great. Two years later it has lost some capacity but still lasts for 3 hours or more. My laptop didn't mind the increased voltage but that is probably because the power supply and charger circuitry was designed to adapt. If the 5593 motherboard was designed to work with the higher voltage it might work but I don't know for sure. I only dared to try the switch on mine because the service manual said it could use either battery.

@@cdsmith Alright then. It is a bit uncertain since neither 5570 nor 5593 does have options for higher capacity battery, I think I might actually have to go ahead and try to replace the individual cells for thicker, higher capacity ones since they are basically three 3.8v 3500 mAh cells connected in series. Thanks a lot❤️

I think it might depend with the circuitry onboard your current laptop model. But I don't know for sure. The guy who made the video have the same battery as mine (WDX0R) and somehow his laptop was working happily even with higher battery voltage

I think it is more likely a part called the "idle air control valve." The IAC is a valve controlled by the engine controller that allows air to go around the throttle valve and into the engine so it can still get some air when your foot is off the gas pedal. They are known to stop working. Cleaning them sometimes fixes the problem but by the time you go to the trouble to remove it, it is probably a better idea to just install a new one.

I don't know if it will work. I don't think I'd try it. The only reason I dared do the swap on mine is because I found that the service manual mentioned three or four cell batteries. Besides the physical space issue, we don't know if the power supply and charging circuitry will handle the 4 cell battery, or if the BIOS will object and refuse to work with the battery.

@@cdsmith thanks for your reply. I will stick to 42 Wh this time, and leave 56 Wh for the next time

It shouldn't take too many turns to loosen the screws. Maybe 5 to 10 turns. Often the screws will come out of the holes when they are loose but on some laptops the don't, they stay trapped in the back cover. The other thing is that the covers are usually also held on with snap together points around the edge. So you have to use something to pry around the edge all the way around and pop apart the spots that snap together. A guitar pick or something similar often works well to pop the cover loose without damaging anything.

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. It depends on what is actually wrong. Cleaning the sensor can eliminate the codes, but sometimes the codes are caused by another problem. In my case, my Explorer had a leak in the intake manifold gasket and the gasket needed to be replaced.

I don't know. I looked at the service manual and a couple videos, and it does look like it has the space, but it looks like there are no threaded inserts in the holes where the screws would go for the longer battery, and the service manual doesn't say anything about a larger battery being an option. So I can't say for sure.

I think you probably have to use the same one. The pictures in the service manual for that model look like there is no room for a larger battery.

@@cdsmith thanks

Is it a standard torx or the security torx with the pin in the center? Looking at my own video, it looks like the screws might be security torx with the pin. I traded the 2001 Explorer for a newer one a few years ago so I can't check.

@@cdsmith gap for the pin in the middle. Mines a 02 mountaineer.

I looked at the service manual for the 7472 and it appears that there is no room to upgrade to a larger battery. So I think you are stuck with the 42Wh battery.

It doesn't look like it. I found another video of someone disassembling that model and it appears there is no extra room for a larger battery.

@@cdsmith Mine is having a 42Wh and when i searched it i saw a 51.2Wh battery with the same dimensions as the 42wh. Or is it okay if i buy another 42wh and stack it up to have 84Wh?

@@chainsapphire9526 I don't know if the 51.2 Wh battery will work. There are a lot of things that have to be right for it to work besides just the dimensions. It would have to have the same connector. The motherboard charging circuit would have to understand that it has more capacity or it won't charge it to 100 percent. And even the BIOS would have to understand and allow it as well. As for stacking two batteries, I doubt they would fit inside. Even if they did, you again have all the same problems of getting the rest of the system to understand what is going on. Sorry to be the pessimist here but I think the only reason the battery upgade worked in my laptop is that it was designed to use either type of battery.

@@cdsmith Thank you sir!!!

I see a couple problems with this. First is that cylindrical batteries are thicker than flat batteries and wouldn't fit in the space. Second is that the electronics from the flat battery will still report back to the laptop that it has the same charge capacity, so if the cylindrical batteries have higher capacity the laptop wouldn't fully charge them or fully use the available charge if they were fully charged.

@@cdsmith my laptop is very thick boy alienware and i dont want to pay 150 for batry +shipment

No, the watt hour number is what indicates the capacity of the battery and higher is better, so a 45 Wh battery is lower capacity than the 55.9 Wh one.

Looks like it says Dell P/N: 6TM1C

It's been so long since I did this video I am unsure of the details. Your question if the engine light will go away involves two things. First, if cleaning the MAF fixes the problem, will the light go out? That I am not sure of. I have a tool that I used to reset the light. It depends on the code, because some codes will clear automatically when the vehicle sees the problem is fixed, and other codes set permanently and have to be cleared with a scan tool. To clear it you can go to many auto parts stores and borrow a scan tool that can be used to clear the code, or you can do like I did and buy a small bluetooth device that you plug into the diagnostic port and use an app on a smartphone to see codes and clear them. The second thing to consider for "if I clean the MAF will the light go out" is that cleaning the MAF might not fix your problem. There are many other problems that can cause this code to set. For my 2001 Explorer I had to have the intake manifold gasket replaced. Anything that causes a vacuum leak can set this code. Cracked vacuum hoses, etc. But since it is the least expensive thing to try, I would recommend to do as I did and clean the sensor, use a scan tool to clear the code, then see if it comes back soon. If it comes back you likely have another problem that will be harder to diagnose and more expensive to fix.

The 357F9 battery looks a lot thicker in the images I found online and probably wouldn't fit in the space. But I found on my 7569 model that I could upgrade to a 4 cell battery that is the same thickness but longer. See my other video for details. ua-cam.com/video/R6cbvlZyg6E/v-deo.html

@@cdsmith fantastic... that was so helpful Carl. Like I said I was confused between 74wh, 32wh and the 56wh but now that I have seen the mentioned video 56 is way to go fwd... thanks a lot mate ❤️👍🏻. Like and subscribed.

I REALLY appreciated your recording this & was so glad I found it!

You shouldn't have to reprogram anything. I have never had to. I could see that possibly if you left a fob with dead batteries or removed batteries for a long period of time it might eventually forget it's code and have to be reprogrammed, but normally that doesn't happen.