Відео

Whoops! fixed.

Make sure both the front and rear brackets are fastened properly. Sounds like you have something that's not torqued all the way.

@@tuned_auto they are all torqued but am not sure if it the stiffness of the bushing itself or not.

@@tuned_autoI think you might be right not sure yet but am about to go back and recheck the torque!

No change in ride quality. It will just disable your ability to change suspension stiffness with EDC

@@azdannyboi it's not that old 😅 and no because the bolt is too long

@@khalidali8482 yup! I'd confirm by looking at the bushing. You might be able to see it without jacking up the car by using your phone.

Yo I have the same noise, I thought I did something wrong but I guess I wasn’t the only person, I try to find a video of after they installed them and test drive to see if the noise was there but I couldn’t find any video🤦‍♂️

Went away on its own 👍🏻

I guess it comes down to preference. How does the drivetrain feel when shifting? Are you tracking the car?

@@sammunroe389 If that's the truth, that's definitely worth it

@@kylepatton2423 commented with my personal account on accident lol. I got it from one of the moderators in my Facebook group "E46 Owners" for 1800$. So worth it. VF was supposed to charge me 500$ to tune the ECU and never did so that was free lol.

@@tuned_auto Oh nice!!! Lol. Yeah if I can come up on a deal like that I'll do it too. Thanks for your honesty most people on YT aren't so nice to strangers

You're squeezing the bushing making it harder for them to move properly and absorb vibrations

There is a whole kit for the job: amzn.to/45bY65O

Yesterday followed this instruction and it went perfect! Thank you👍🏻

You checked all the connections? Nothing broken from closing the trunk? Make sure nothing was pinched. If everything looks good, VLAND offers a pretty fair warranty.

@@tuned_auto I have not checked anything internally yet I will do that tomorrow morning! Thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Fingers crossed it’s just a pinch🤞🏾

Let it dry, sand lightly, and re apply dye

@@tuned_auto i did that too. I feel like after applying paint it will not feel as smooth as prior to applying paint.

Buy a new steering wheel

Updated manual includes 5w-40. Believe it started on 2017

Ich denke, ich hätte aus dem Rest ein zweites Rad machen können. ..Übersetzt von Google. Ich hoffe, es klingt ok, lol

Yup!

You can code in batteries with carly and I guess Bimmerlink.

So aftermarket batteries dont have a battery module inside. As you can see at 6:12 there is a connector and that connector is for the battery module inside the battery. @@Salpeteroxid

Yes

@@tuned_auto thanks! Gonna order me some for my Christmas gift to myself😂

Yes. You don't need to replace your driveshaft when replacing the rear bushings.

@TunedAuto_Official subscribed to your YT and requesting to join your F8X owners FB group. I think I need to replace the bushings but have another primary issue in diff or driveshaft. . .or Trans 🤦🏾‍♂️

Rohana RFX5 20x10 et22 and 20x11 et28. I wish I did 9" in the front

I'd recommend buying the charger I used in the video if the car will be sitting for long periods of time

I would stick to the normal Angelus red and mix in some white. That way you can mix it to your desired color. Using an old belt is a good trick for testing out the final color once it dries. When it comes to avoiding the stitching, it's 100x easier taking the steering wheel out of the car and with the fine brush set I have in the description, it can be done but takes patience. I managed to paint all around my M color stitching without a single mark on it :)

Are you able to validate the voltage with a multimeter? Did the Ctek indicate the battery was still good?

@@tuned_auto yes I meter the battery itself it’s holding at 13.2v. Not sure if that abit high for lithium even after 4days parked. When car is running it’s ranging from 14.5-14.1v. I’m putting the ctek back on it today because I remember one time I did have the ctek on it and right before last step of the lights on the charger the battery internal relay clicked and I had to reset it again by unplugging it. But that was before I put the battery back in. So right now I’m just giving a go with the charger to run it’s course to see. I am hooking it up under the hood this time. It’s definitely something with my REM. Because all the issues are the rear of the car. Notice just now rear heated seat are not working either. But the trunk does still work. Someone told me the trunk pop is part of the Rear module too

​@@TurboSPengdid you find a solution. My battery has a lot of power but gives me an error code and a warning in iDrive.

@@Salpeteroxid unfortunately I still have no luck. Was able to save the battery and did have the error but was able to clear it. Have someone try to diagnose the problem and show my REM was bad. Got a brand new one from the dealer and no matter what he did it won’t code to the car. He ran out of ideas and suggested I have to bring in to the dealer. Waiting for my dealer appointment next month. Fingers crossed 🤞🏼 Soo I still was driving the car with no issue besides no camera/parking sensors, rear and front passenger heated seats, No rear windows.

I really hope it works out for you. This relay you're talking about, does it make the battery useless until you reset it or is it just for the error code in the iDrive? I got the code 213B01 Power management, battery condition: battery faulty.

Is the arm getting stuck? Maybe add more slack on the red and yellow cable

@@tuned_auto it could be I’ll give it try

I think it’s my trunk liner on top that covers the wires, it’s not attached all the way

It’s probably just FCP Euro

​@Omarrrr i dont think they offer lifetime on liquid items. The filters yes but im interested in his video too

Let us know how it goes!

How has it worked out?

@@Salpeteroxid yes I 100% recommend you take the anti gravity route instead of OEM i love it

​@@chevygivingWhat about the plug that goes into the battery?

@@Salpeteroxidthey sell the negative cable individually or as a part of a bundle with the battery which replaces your ground and bms cable. EAS in Cali sells everything you need and gives you a write up so that you can do it yourself and program it yourself as well.

Not all brands are created equal. Two popular brands are Motul and Liqui Moly

Pretty sure that can be disabled.

In my case (6mt), shifting became a lot more precise

@@tuned_auto my car is automatic, so, I think that the difference can be the same, I will try, thanks

I waited 24 hours

It was from an orbital sanding disk lol. I cut out the center because that's all I had on hand. 240 grit.

I don't have any exact measurements but it's not much louder than stock. The biggest difference is in the tone (especially on startup). Instead of the chainsaw/drone sound, you get a more deep exhaust note.

@@tuned_auto Thank you very much!