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Hi Peter, thank you for watching and commenting! I do have 1 newer video on this heater where I have switched the element out to a 750 watt immersion type element and it works much better. In an upcoming video I will be adding a digital pid controller to cycle the element on and off as needed to maintain the sand temperature at a desired level. Your induction heater sounds interesting! I have seen the induction magnet disk type heaters as well. From my experiments I have learned quite a bit and developed a "feei" for how power intensive heating really is. The windmill spinning a disk would be awesome in the right environment because the input energy is free. And storage of that heat would be great on calm days and nights. There is a guy in Canada who made a huge greenhouse with the entire floor foundation being a sand battery. It is insulated underneath the layer of sand and has concrete on top. It is heated by solar water tubes that run from the roof to the sand underneath. Absolutely brilliant. UA-cam has changed the world in so many ways allowing us to share ideas that help drive innovation. Please let me know how your project works out!

@@mvpmachine it's interesting that you should say something about a guy with a greenhouse, just yesterday I was watching a video about a guy who was going to do something about temperature control of his greenhouse, he was talking about someone else who has already done it using sand with a layer of concrete on top, he said that it would be too expensive for him to get sand where he is but someone in the comments section mentioned using clay instead which as it turns out he has lots of it.... And he's going to be using clay instead! Now here's the problem with clay.... You can't let it get wet! My house here in Melbourne Australia is built on clay soil, some years ago a plastic drain pipe from the kitchen sink which wasn't glued together was pulled out of its joint and now all the waste water from the kitchen sink was going under the house.... I was running some speaker cables under the house to set up the rear channel and as I was getting closer in the crawl space to the kitchen I could hear what sounds like a waterfall! I was intrigued and tried to get closer to see what was going on but the ground started feeling wet! And was getting wetter the further I tried to go.... Anyway, over the next few months I started noticing the house would crack and moan during temperature changes..... I had fixed the issue with the drain pipe but the ground had expanded and was lifting the house! Eventually the clay began to dry out and began to sink.... The floor seperated from the walls ..... I saw a demonstration not to long ago with a ziplock bag, one quarter of dry clay and one quarter of water was added and it expanded to fill the entire bag! Impressive! I wonder if you could drill a hole into a boulder, pack it with dry clay and put water into it to split the boulder in half? There is a technique for this already but you have to pay for the stuff needed... Would make a great experiment for someone.... Anyway... The guy with the greenhouse, could be a bad idea to use clay for thermal storage or as a thermal conductor especially in his application.... I could tell that he wasn't well informed.... I'm looking forward to seeing what you have coming up next.... From what I have seen so far, you think like I do, from what I have seen in the comments section, people think that you are trying to build a thermal sand battery! Missing the point that it's way too small to be of any use as a battery, and also the fact that it has fins and a fan that will run automatically whenever heat is present.... Have you thought about using heat pipes to help move some thermal energy? They are not too hard to make, you will need a vacuum pump two pieces of copper pipe and a tiny bit of water.... Or you can get them already made up on Ali Express, although they might not be long enough for what you need? If they were simply placed in each riser pipe at either end so that one side was close to the heater element and the other side close to the fins possibly even running the heat pipes through the holes in the fin's that are already there, you could possibly get a few heat pipes into the elongated holes on the fin's essentially bringing the heat fast directly to where you need it to go.... There's a good science channel called Alpha Phoenix (might be one word) he has a great video on heat pipes and demonstrated via thermal camera the difference between a rod and a heat pipe... The difference is day and night, you hear about how good heat pipes are but once you see this video, you will automatically see applications for these things.... On the topic of your Peltier device, I see a potential issue with the setup, you have the Peltier device sandwiched between two aluminium plates and screwed down with some nice bolts, but you have to remember thermal expansion of aluminium and ceramic tiles will be different.... A better solution would be to use spring so the two can move independently but stay in contact with each other.... And I would probably try and use two Peltier devices to provide a little more current which should get the fan to start earlier..... Or use more Peltier devices and charge a capacitor to drive a constant current and voltage DC to DC converter.... Yeah there's lots of ways to go! It's all coming down to having the idea, implementing it and measuring it's outcome....

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! There are 2 more updates after this video, the 3rd one has a 750 watt submersion type heat element that has seamed to perform the best. The problem with the ptc elements is the cannot stand up to being used in a high heat environment without having the heat removed quickly, and I kept burning them out after a few days. I will have a controller to cycle the 750watt element on and off once it hits a preset temp so it will not run very often but be more efficient. New videos coming soon this fall.

@@mvpmachine How do they burn out? does something fall off or do they just stop heating?

@@dawidkujawski3340 I have taken them apart after failure to see but could not find the issue . Yes, they just stopped working. Also the resistance changes if you check it with a meter. Not an open circuit just higher and won't allow it to start heating

@@mvpmachine I suspect that this happens with heaters that have over 200 degrees Celsius - I wonder if the same happens to models that only reach 70-80 C.

@@dawidkujawski3340 from what I understand rapid heat removal is the key to the longevity of ptc elements so it was likely a bad choice for me to use on a sand battery heater but they are hard to find good info on, it seems you get clues here and there but no one really spells out all of the details about thier specs and usage. Most of what I see is they are used with a small fan and a large thin heat sink and that likely works fine as the heat is constantly dispersed. I would assume the fan speed is calculated to match the ptc element somewhat but the big factor is your starting temperature. I concluded they are way to low in wattage to do anything meaningful in cold temps.

Hi they are set into 3 layers of crushed stone a 4 " course layer 1st 12 inches down then 4 inches of medium then 4 inches of fine just under the pavers at the top. All layers were compacted with a plate compactor.

@@mvpmachine wow, heavy duty

@@wiredcer The company I bought the pavers from recommended that so I followed their recommendation. A lot of digging, took me about 4 days. And about a week and a half to lay down the pavers. My back never forgave me 😆

@@steveforbes8287 Steve thank you for watching and for your comments!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Unfortunately this cutter does not work well with 304 stainless. It works on other free machining SS grades but 304 is a big no with this cutter due to the geometry of the insert.

@@mvpmachine thank you for the answer. Im searching for this kind of finish in SS can you give me some advice?

@@dmmultimediamx I would use a large facemill with inserts rated for 304 SS and remove all but 1 insert should give you a fly cutter like finish. I cannot recommend any specific brands but would recommend talking to a rep from Sandvik, Sumitomo, or Iscar to advise you as they will have the correct insert grades available

Mitsubishi is another one to look into they make some incredible inserts for hard to cut materials I would try them first

@@mvpmachine Thank you so much sir. lets se how works the facemill tip.

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! That machine has a 10 HP spindle.

Thank you for watching!

@@fowyb Thank you for watching and commenting! Your idea of the lower chamber being insulated is actually very interesting, I really never thought about that but I kind of like the idea because the lower rectangular tube is inefficient at transfering heat in the first place so forcing all of the heat to the fins is not a terrible idea. I will be working on this again very soon, I have had a busy summer and have not had time to do any new videos or projects but I will be adding a digital controller to it and may experiment with insulation it sounds like a good idea.

Thanks Travis!!

@@LetsRogerThat Roger that Giles you need some stability with that tolerance called out! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! I never would run it that fast unless I was not the one paying for inserts 😆 I always rough with them and just use the fly cutter to finish.

​@@mvpmachinehi yes true work are paying for mine.greetings from the UK.

Thank you!

Hi Jessica! Great work on your channel!

Thank you

@@Jessica1234-xp5bs 🤪🤪🤪

Thank you for watching and commenting! Why would you take the full cut if not needed? The large diameter of this cutter allows it to make a full cut without running the back side, if the part fits within the diameter of the cutter. So perfect flatness and finish why would you take the extra time?

@@mvpmachine You say heeling is not needed, the heeling action removes metal too. As a 33 year Tool and Die Maker, not heeling is bad practice... It doesn't always leave the flattest surface... then again, it is an easy way to hide the head being out of tram. There will be a day when it bites you in the rear and you'll be remaking something... just don't say that no one told you.

@@yelims20 When I check with an indicator and see surface grinder flat and a good finish I call it good, this is a modern fly cutter with a high positive carbide insert and a negative rake, not a HSS hand sharpened tool bit. Big difference.

@@mvpmachine Knock yourself out...

@@mvpmachine Checking with your indicator in your machine tells you next to nothing about flatness of the part.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I have had good results with flame polishing edges but never tried a flat surface, just does not seem right. Are you saying that surface would be as optically clear as I made it? Seems like distortion would occur due to the random nature of your hands movements with the torch. I do not work with acrylic very often but I always regarded flame polishing as an edge treatment where optical clarity it not that important.

@@mvpmachine we did it a lot with 15-20mm thick PMMA plexi glas in europe. it works graith. on the safe site use grith 1000-2000 and end with copper polisch or better 3M. i am no fan of hard metal kind polich cloth. the bring in a lot of heat and tension

Warren, thank you for watching and for your comments! There are 2 more updates for the heater after this video on our channel it is a work in progress and a final update coming soon.

Thanks for watching and commenting Ross!

Hi, thank you for watching and commenting, there are 2 more videos after this one that show some evolution in my design, I am not opposed to any technolgy that will make it work better but as a rule I do want to keep it as simple as possible. I am not at all familiar with what you proposed but would like to hear more. I do not really like the sound of it though because the key to the silica sand, made up of mostly quarts is that it has to be completely dry to be effective, otherwise the heat is wasted boiling off the moisture. Many people I see experimenting with these just use plain old sand and it is not effective. Quarts is an excellent conductor of heat and I am using as a thermal conductor as much as I am using as a thermal mass. I think you mean adding another type of heat exchanger and that seems to complicated for this.

I tried the buckets it is hard to get meaningful heat unless your are in the desert 😏. It is a good way to test the theory but a bad way to get heat. In my opinion it must be contained so you can control the heat more effectively. By containing it you allow the entire volume of sand which in my case is pure silica which it mostly quarts a very effective heat transfer media, to entirely heat up and transfer that heat to the outside. I have 2 other follow up videos to this one where I have made some considerable modifications to help the heat come out but still get the sand benifits. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Cody, thanks for watching and commenting! There are 2 more updates on this heater on my channel. I am not only using the sand for storage but also for a thermal transfer media. The third video kind of shows best what this has evolved to so far.

Some steels are pretty clean but can get a little crusty from hunidity causing a little surface rust. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Wouldn't the server use a ton of power though, kind of the opposite of what I was going for. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@mvpmachine Yes, but since you are running this on solar, do you really care how much energy you are using? In fact, I'm looking to accomplish a few things: 1) Setup an energy storage of heat for the winter months. 2) Use solar to feed that storage system. 3) Get paid for doing it but not from pumping it to the electrical grid where I have to sign a contract with my local government. Instead, I want to get paid by a distributed network for mining crypto. So, I was thinking of how to store the energy from the BTC servers while I store the money at the same time, and just pay back the server investment over time by saving on my energy bill and also diversifying my capital investments.

@@jd01665 It sounds like it could work but setup cost is going to be huge and it is not a sure thing as crypto has proven to be a bit risky. I would thing proving the crypto model you are thinking of would be the first step then after that works using the heat could be invested in with the profits. Waste heat is the best use for a sand battery.

Hi Eric, thanks for watching and commenting! Oil would not work with this design because I am unable to weld the horizontal fins, they are a tight tolerance press fit, tight enough for sand to not get out but warm oil would go all over. Mineral oil also cannot stand up to the temperature of the heating element.

Hi, Thanks for watching and commenting! This material is surprisingly stable unlike some steels like cold rolled. It was designed for commercial aircraft dies and used for stamping the fuselages and wing parts. Where you cut it is where it stays. The company that made both the material and dies had a huge CMM to check the parts and I have witnessed them pouring the blanks because a friend of mine worked there and also cutting the dies on thier enormous cnc bridge mill. They sold out to another company a few years ago and I no longer have acces to the excess material but I wish I did because I have used it for many projects.

@@mvpmachine thank you for you reply. I have never seen anything like that before, I would imagine it would be quite pricey.

@@paulrayner4514 the company that made it had a polymer division and a machining division so it was an internally developed product that was only used for their own jobs. I think it likely is quite pricey to make but they did not sell it to other companies. We used to make carbon fiber fixtures for the auto industry and they had a chemist that developed the resins for a lot of applications including carbon fiber and this material. Great people but they got to retirement age and sold off the company. The company that purchased them I believe still does the same thing and they are only a mile or so from our shop but I do not deal with them.

@@mvpmachine would it not be worth dealing with them, If you have a big enough customer base to warrant it

@@paulrayner4514 I have toured thier facility with the intention of getting some work but nothing ever came of it.

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! That is the one I am planning to use! I think it will work perfectly for this. I will be posting an update soon.

Sorry mic died and camera took over

Hi Mariano thank you for watching and commenting. It for sure would have helped to have it seal tightly but everthing was new at the time and on the hinge side the gasket was still not completely compressed. It later became a tight seal after sitting closed and being used and it did help a little but secondary combustion was not useful for the way I use it as a patio heater. It would be if used inside like in a garage. The rope seals are not very good when you use them outdoors the elements kill them so I left it out after her updates and it still works great. If I ever use it inside it will be put back on.

Thank you for your comments! And thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and commenting Dave! Unfortunatly fly cutters get a bad name from the little HSS toolbit ones everyone is accustomed to so they dont take them seriously.

Im not sure I went to a submersion type heater in video 3 for this heater, I like that a lot better than the PTC elements. Now I just have to install a controller. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting!

Thanks Stuart! I am a coolant and cutting oil hater to a certain extent except for drilling and machining aluminum. It has made my life easier...But I do always use it on the CNC lathe.

The fly cutter was backed of from the radius 1/8" inch prior to cutting the walls. Thank you for watching!

Thank you Stuart!!

Thanks for watching! It is a little difficult to deal with the dust. I am glad I only occasionally work with it.

Hi William thank you for watching and commenting! It's hard to beat an inserted fly cutter for many of the projects we do as well. Many machinists dismiss the value of these thinking of the HSS tool bit versions that are so common and cheap. We made our first fly cutters to cut the inside of large copper weld guns for the auto industry, some of the bars had to be 4ft long to do the job. Once we mastered the proper angles it made the job easy and we were the only company that the customer would use because the quality and finish was so good. Glad to hear about your cutters sounds similar to how our came to be.

Thanks Patrick!

Hi the video you commented on was the first of 3, there are 2 more after this one, and one final update coming soon.. Thanks for watching!

Hi , I am not sure I would consider a fly cutter for 316L it js one of those materials that does not lend itself to fly cutting as it requires a higher amount of cutting force than most free machining steels. I think that one is best left for a facemill with material specific inserts. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@mvpmachine thanks for the response. I’ve been running lathes for the last 12 years and I just can’t get over the feed lines left from face milling as no such lines are generally left in turning operations. The other option I’m considering is making a fixture to surface grind the faces so I don’t have the feed lines.

@@bf4chode2 You can use a face mill like a fly cutter if you have one that cuts the material well but just leaves the cutter marks sometimes removing all but 1 insert will give you a much better finish. But on large surfaces the blend lines will always be there to a certain extent but over lapping your cuts by 1/4" or so can sometimes minimize them. Some grades of stainless are difficult to get what you want finish wise. Depending on what it is for I have gone as far as media blasting to give stainless a uniform finish and that works well.

@@mvpmachine it is going to be a gift, so I’d like it to look seamless that’s why I’m leaning towards surface grinding. We have an entire semester to do it and I can’t imagine it taking more than a class or 2 (2-4 hours) to machine the whole thing since I already got both sides of the program made and it’s 30ish minutes total. It would give me more time on mills and gives me a fixture I can use outside of school. Thank you for all the suggestions!