Відео

That charge controller definitely is NOT MPPT, you're probably leaving >20% of the power generated on the table. Never trust Amazon sellers. All the wind turbines are overstated by 1000%, all the chargers that claim MPPT are PWM, nearly everything on there is a fraud. It's like the wild wild west of scammers and grifts. :)

Very helpful, thank you.

Hello Sir...my car is AWD...if i dont want use long shaft without remove tranfer case it is realible..

If that little 12v battery is the AGM one you showed on the on the webpage on the other channel the get charged higher than sealed lead batteries, it's typically between 14.4 to 15.0

my smoker actually runs off 12v. I have been able to run it off a car battery. you might want to take a look at the board

The 394MW capacity will be based on a certain head. In reality, as the reservoir drops you will get less power.

3 Sig figures on density but rounding acceleration due to gravity to 9.8 made my brain hurt a bit 😂

You're an awesome teacher, my man. Thanks for making this video, it helps a lot. Very well done; good angles, good communication, clear instructions, and easy step by step process.

Too expensive for not rally any new innovation!

Let me ask you a Question... the Water battery... how could I use it on a Sailboat?

Love it! Thanks for the share! I'm planning to build a few bridges on my land as well. :)

Seeing this show up in my feed tells me that my recent civil engineer son is still thinking about putting a bridge in my backyard. I like the beam bridge. I guess he will figure out how big the footings need to be. I enjoyed your video.

I wish I could remember where I read this as I like to quote it. It has to do with failure and how important it is. It ties in with your preparing to fail at least twice in your talk. Anyway, it goes something like this: 'If you don't fail at least 10 times a day, you aren't trying hard enough.' I love this because I know people who don't take any risks, don't do anything with out clearance or running it past someone else... you the that guy! If you don't push yourself, you will not improve yourself. Failure is one of the biggest steps toward success.

Natural water source + ramp pump + storage x mini hydro = charged battery

Failure is ALWAYS an option. Thanks for sharing your failures.

I would do things differently, Start with a brushless 3 phase PM motor and drive it directly, large hobby RC plane motors would be a good candidate, Instead of a bridge rectifier, use the motor controller to apply variable regenerative braking, then it will always be matched to battery voltage no matter what the RPM and you can just control current. Your setup can be simpler lighter cheaper and more reliable. Most good controllers have a USB datalink so you can monitor variables such as RPM and phase current, meaning you can record straight to a laptop. I would start with no pitch control and get it working with a fixed blade to test first, could be put together in a few hours. The brushed motors have to go, this is the future we are living in haha. Good luck.

Or a test track to eliminate traffic. Yeah don’t most alternators steal up to 3 or 4 horsepower from the engine to produce electricity.

Is the power generated going into the battery? Like offsetting the alternator need.

I don't want to sound sexist, but based on what YT recommends (and the subscriber counts I see), the way to profitability is not the content, but big b00bs in semi-transparent t-shirt... :(

I'd like to see a decent size flywheel added to a generator. The drop on starts should basically not exist.

The govenor on the engine regulated the speed. A electronic govenor would probably be better.

I love your work and have been following your project! Have you heard of Eolo from Columbia? Eolo is a wind car without any external turbines and can go up to 75mph. If you google Eolo Columbia, you might be able to do research into them and may help you with your project to a much safer design without a dangerous external Turbine. Hope this helps brother!

Why not just use an 80-amp Automotive alternator? 80x12=960 watts

Lets see if you could always drive down hill your gas milage would increase...free gasoline

Here for more content. FIRST!

What you said about community college quality of teaching is so true! Some of my best professors were at the community college.

6:22 - FDM parts don’t go brittle over time. Don’t need curing, don’t need to manage monomers

Are the 3d print files available?

Really impressive they are showing the light source of my old Saturn OG. That printer have the same technology or even less of a cheap resin 3D printer.

too expensive and not democratized... they actin like they did us a favor...

Form2 was a gem of a printer even now, except for the dwidling propreitary resin supply. Heated resin vat is an important innovation. Software is also top notch. They should have avoided Form3 altogether, in favor of MSLA tech(which lot of companies capitalized on, due to expired patents). The backlights on form4 seems to be exquisitely designed(seems like a fresnel lens in each lens element?), compared to other MSLA printers on market. One issue with the resin printers is the need for protective coating on production parts exposed to elements. If they can comeup with a way to eliminate, or even implement as part of 3d printing process it could be a game changer. Heat induced failure of LEDs, LCD has been the bane of MSLAs. Wondering what is the expected lifetime for the MSLA display and the backlight unit. Also formlabs should try to reduce consumable costs(vat,resin and with Fm4, Display,Backlight etc) to remain competititive. One other thing of interest would be a cost competitive SLS printer. Currently Fuse* is a bit overpriced. Just some 💭❤️👍

Well, LED backlight + lens array for parallel ray + LCD mask are very typical setup for MSLA printers. Every thing discussed here sounds exactly like the typical "cheap Amozon" MSLA printer you said. Had me really confused about what's so innovating about the new Form 4 after this video and have to check their channel to clear my doubts. In my opinion the most important new (not really innovating, but new) features are the heated vat and mixer. Since with that we can hopefully print with high molecular weight, high viscosity resin, and highly filled resin. Anyway, I'm glad that you are invited to the Formlabs event Quint, hope you have more related content coming soon!

Wow, formalbs really is replacing a high quality laser printer with 6 year old Chinese msla tech, and charging 10x for it. If you really want to stick with the toxic, predatory environment of locked down slicer and resins, check out the Heygears ultracraft. Better light source, better resolution, has an air release add-on, and you can get one for a fraction of the cost of a Formlabs. I mean, I personally would elect to go with a company that doesn't abuse it's customers, but some people like that I guess.

recently put 2x 100w flexible panels on my 2013 chevy volt. they were like 40$ each. crazy how cheap panels have gotten, i remember when they were 4-5 bucks/watt in the early 2010s. then around 2015 the whole 1$/watt was supposed to be game changing. now its like less than half that. the payoff for cheap panels can be as low as 2-3 years. anyways, the idea with putting panels on my ev is to keep everything as cheap and simple as possible by keeping it all low voltage, no inverter that might burn out. cars use a good amount of low voltage current per day, even EV's, and solar directly generates low voltage dc, so why not avoid all the losses and just keep things low voltage, imo theres not enough usable area to even try and charge the high voltage battery and you would probably loose so much in efficiency it would never pay for the inverter which i think is basically a consumable cost unless you price it super high. my next project will be to replace the AGM battery with 4x 280ah lifepo4 eve cells, which are only around 80$ each. going to skip the bms and just check things manually. might put in an active balancer, kind of on the fence. will also add a small 12v 40w silicon heating pad on a thermostat circuit and put a thermal fuse in line. i figure a car like a volt uses about 400-600watts of low voltage, maybe on the lower side since i replaced the headlights with LED's. the volt is one of the only cars that uses its high voltage battery to start the generator motor instead of the 12v starter which is why i think ill get away with it. also the charging circuit for lead acid might be a little bit too harsh on the lifepo4 cells since it trys to desulfinate lead acid batterys with 100a every now n then (hence why no bms), but im thinking the solar will keep the car from trying to charge the low voltage system much if at all. net gain should be around 4-8 miles of range per day/drive.

Is there going to be a tutorial

I just built my first 2 footbridges for a client, and although I’m happy with how they turned out, I wish I would have looked at some bridge designs before I built them! Next time I want to incorporate trusses into the design rather than using 2x12s for the stringers. Thanks for the video, I really like your arched truss bridge!

friend, I have a Mercury mountaineer 2005 awd and where you moved it manually where it says 2H, 4H and 4L on my transfer case it has an N (I think it is neutral), if I move it manually in N the truck will work as if it didn't have one transfer case????,,(I want to do it because my transfer case apparently does not work because the awd flashes on my instrument panel), so friend, is what I want to do correct???

Very informative! Running a 48 volt battery module might have been an ovetall win. Less mass, smart cintrollet, smaller and cheaper wire... Alos, batery modules genetally cime in a rack mount. Very convenient and expandable. Thanks for sharing!

16:00 there were too many freedom units

can you share the equation you use to ensure that the knife will stick no matter what the distance is?

Good job !!

Do you know if this will work grand with a regular 3d printer board? As i got the old 8bit board my ender 3 came with and a few spare steppers. And what firmware did you use for the print board? Marlin? Or can klipper work fine? As i got a spare pi 3 i can use for that. And to convert a image to cnc gcode, what did you use for that?

Correct me if I'm wrong but I am under the impression that electrons have the tendency of flowing on the wires surface much more than in them, so copper coated aluminum wire should if the above is correct, work really well

Excellent videos sir. Do you have any on the build of your 78 Bronco?. Does it have late model interior?.

It would be interesting to see how much different your wiring would be if you went with 24v batteries. I'm guessing you wanted to stay 12v to allow all of the 12v accessories in the camper. But you can get pretty efficient 24v to 12v bucks for very little money. Would it have saved money?

Couple of thoughts. 100% agree on the comments, if you plan on running Air Conditioning off-grid, switch that system to 24vdc. You would have to wire the batteries in series (or buy 24v batteries) and add a 24vdc to 12vdc step down transformer to power your 12vdc bus with only minimal efficiency loss. This would reduce the primary wire gauges significantly. Second, in you plan on running your air conditioner primarly off grid (or off 120vdc/15a shore power) consider swapping out your AC Unit from 120vac to a 24vdc unit. This improves efficiency significantly and with 24vdc, a 12000 BTU unit should only draw 40a, which is only 8 gauge wire.

We're in PA and we leased the solar panels and it's worked out. The panels save us about $200/month and they cost about $150/month. Where our bill would have been $400 it's now 150. Our solar lease is a little less than $200. And if we wanted to we could tie a battery to it and have storm power.

I dont know if I am happy or sad I didn't see your videos before attempting something very similar. We both came up with surprisingly similar ideas! I got significantly better results, with a fraction of the height. I realize I cant actually talk to you about it, but I have a great many questions! My setup is just using a water tank 8 feet above my jet(s). Differences: 1) I also built my own alternator (my first, I am no expert), but I used a different idea - I made a rotating magnetic field with a stationary armature around the outside - this required no brushes. Old school, yes, but its seems to be producing a good bit more watts. I also connected a rectifier with a capacitor. I made this at a lower voltage - intending to light LED (3.5 volts was the target, I am hitting 2.9). 2) Not having a 3 D printer, my wheel is similar size, but just using curved blades. I did try different sizes, but they all produced similar watts (larger made less volts, more amps; small made more volts less amps). 3) I used much larger pipe feeding the jet- 2" all the way to the jet. Knowing the head would be exactly the same for all size pipe - and knowing I had very little at 8 feet, I just upsized to reduce any loss from friction and fittings. 4) Solar panel and pump - my idea was to run the "turbine' (I don't really know what to call it, its a horizontal version of yours, but just with blades) all the time and power the load all the time. The solar would turn on the pump when it was available, and outrun the "turbine", filling the reservoir when there is no solar. To achieve this, I have a 100 watt panel, driving an 86 watt pump. The pump is submersible, and does outrun the "turbine". These could clearly be smaller to use the way you did. 5) I turned my wheel 90 degrees and added a second jet going the opposite of the first. In testing, I found this didn't actually produce any better watts for the water used. (2 smaller jets vs 1 large) But it does give me different capacities. I am lighting 1 foot strip of LED's -using 1.6 watts;. I am using 1.6 gallons a minute, filling my tank at 2.5 gallons a minute. This gives me roughly 1 watt / gallon a minute (at 8 feet head+ up to 2 for a full bucket). Clearly, I would still need 1100 gallons to run this all the time. assuming I had max daylight every day (its the idea I wanted to see, not really using it practically).

Solar panels on house are cost effective, even without the tax rebate, as long as you DON’T buy batteries. Just a grid-tried net-metering solar system is fine. My system is 6.8kW, cost $20k, minus $6k tax credit, saves around $2000/year (and costs of power increasing). About 7 year ROI with tax credit, or 10 year without the tax credit. If you want to connect to your house, you can with an interlock, or transfer switch, to avoid backfeeding to grid. Your setup won’t power much, but for emergency, it’s easy and possible.