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J VA
Приєднався 9 жов 2012
Saab 900 Idle Valve Test
Test a Bosch-style 2-wire idle control valve with a cheap PWM controller.
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Відео
Saab 9000 blower motor controller replaced with 9-5 part.
Переглядів 244Місяць тому
The blower motor controller on my 9000 (#4632477) died, resulting in erratic fan speed. The 9000 part has been NLA for a long time. I replaced it with a controller from a 2005-2009 9-5 (#5468152) which is not only available, but less expensive than the 9000 part ever was. Installation took about two hours, and it works perfectly!
Saab c900 Engine Removal
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Quick walk through on pulling the engine from a 1990 Saab 900S. Other c900s are similar... turbos a small extra amount of work!
1990 900S with high miles "some" blowby
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1990 900S with high miles "some" blowby
1987 SPG with 450k Full rebuild, first start
Переглядів 623 роки тому
1987 SPG with 450k Full rebuild, first start
1987 SPG with 450k - Full rebuild, first crank
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1987 SPG with 450k - Full rebuild, first crank
Saab 900 B2xx Cam Timing
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Quick video showing how to set cam timing on a Saab 900. This technique applies to any 16v H motor, from the 1985 900T 16v to the 2009 Saab 9-5 Aero. It does not apply to the V6 cars or the B207 in the 2nd gen 9-3.
Testing c900 Hall Sensor II (Now with more pullup resistor!)
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Turns out Saab 900s aren't that complicated.
Pulling ABS Codes from a classic Saab 900 (or early 9000)
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Pulling ABS Codes from a classic Saab 900 (or early 9000)
2005 Liberty CRD with a serious oil leak
Переглядів 3,2 тис.5 років тому
2005 Liberty CRD with a serious oil leak
excellent, thanks.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
They managed to advertise that four cylinder crap as a luxury car. Yeah right
😂
You ever been in a saab? They had heated steering wheels and heated leather seats WAY back. They were WELL above your average crap, but an absolutely ridiculous design in terms of the way they were built. Crazy enough, norway and Sweden have PLENTY of oil so it's surprising they didn't have bigger engines. But small engines are a European thing.
Now everything is 4 cyl
@ yes. That’s very very sad.
so unshamefully 80s, love it
do you cut wiring?
It is the easiest way. The connector on a 9-5 is different than a 9000, so one of them has to be cut. It's much easier to find the 9-5 connector than the 9000, so I cut the 9000 side off. There is a thread here if you'd like to learn more. www.saabcentral.com/threads/recent-purchase-of-9000-blower-motor.755375
@@jva8291 thanks a lot!!!
Excellent breakdown. Perfect for me since it's been a couple decades since I did this last. thanks!
I now have a much better understanding of my 900 and how to work on it. This is the best video I've seen. When I open my hood I understand what's going on and no longer have apprehension to work on them (87 & 88). Thanks
Ignition control module. What occurs when the ignition control module is bad? I have Hall Sensor. I unplug the Hall Sensor. I test the three wires on the harness with a test light,, ground is good, the middle wire gives the impulse noise BUT…there is no power to the GREEN wire (hot)…. I don’t know why 😭I am so desperate for my car to run
My city golf no sparkling only sart
Great job. Thanks
One of the best videos out there for this. You have a gift for explanation. I just completed the engine out on the turbo and followed this. I have no clue how many mistakes I would've made otherwise. The only error I made was forgetting the oil cooler to filter lines on my turbo but fortunately they held strong until I stopped the removal.
Do you have more on this ?
Proper
This is the best video on pulling a 900 motor and deserves more views. Totally gives me the confidence to pull mine to replace the transmission.
As a novice/beginner DIY SAAB fixer- I would rate this as one of the top vids I've watched - your explanations and displays of using the tools on the different tasks is 'exactly' what people want to see. If ever I'm doing an engine removal (or part of) I will have this playing this (stop/start). I encourage you to do more vids of SAAB tasks using the same explanations and the detailed use of tools and your great camera angles which show what is really going on. Really well done.. !!
I have obtained a 1222 code on mine, do you have a list of wich code is?
???????? ????????? ???????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dont have to remove the steering knuckles. Just remove the lower ball joint bolts and pull the bottom of the knuckle out. Put somethong between the ball joint and lower control arm to hold the acle out of the driver. Dont have to remove axle or tie rod end.
Yes, that is true. As I explained in the video, I prefer to remove the knuckles because it costs no real time and means you do not need to worry about losing grease or clearing the axles on reinstallation. If the thing that is most important to you is time, maybe leave the knuckles in place. My intent is always less annoyance and more consistency in the operation.
@jva8291 you still have to pull the axles from the driver's in the transmission. My way doesn't cause any of the problems you mention and saves a lot of time. Plus it doesn't risk damaging the grease boot on the tie rod end, since you don't disconnect it. I think you misunderstood what I was explaining to you.
Thank you SO much for this. You are going to cringe when you read most of this but bare with me. I work at a salvage yard. My job is to rip motors out of cars. In about the last 4 weeks I've ripped out 70 motors. This 91 Saab 900 Turbo comes in. Looking at it I thought...'Huh...how's this gonna work?'. First I realized I needed to torch the axels (btw...WAY faster than taking off the knuckle and such). Then I dropped it down. I zipped the nuts off of the passenger side motor mount. Brought out the sawsal and cut all the hoses. Now I'm looking at the driver side motor mount wondering how in the world to get to that. I torched off a few things that made no difference. At that point it was close to quitting time so I came home and stumbled across this video. BY FAR the best. On top of that the EXACT motor I'm working on (except this one is turbo but makes no difference for the purpose of things). After watching this I know exactly what I need to do. First I'm going to cut the hood off. Then I'm going to hook the chain hoist up to the radiator and rip it out. Then I'm going to be looking directly at the FRONT motor mount that I didn't know was there....until.....I saw this. My foreman was stumped when I asked him for advice. I'm gonna go in tomorrow. Get this done. Then ask for a raise...all thanks to you!
Hi, many informations thank you ! But how did you change the tensioner with engine in ? Thanks
You should really say what the voltage should be for the signal side of the wire. What's the normal voltage to look out for on a hall sensor?
Brilliant! We used to have to do something similar with 1st gen ABS systems. Replace module with later version and add ground wire for flash codes. Great job!
i love you
thank you for this video man!!!!
@J VA It's the same procedure as ECU code pulling? The homemade switch connects to the little black socket next to the main ABS wiring socket?
As you said the test connector is located under the rear seat next to the ABS socket for 1991-, and next to the master cylinder assembly (accumulator ball & brake fluid réservoir) for -1990.
Thank you
Great video - thanks for making it. Look forward to the next stage, getting the gearbox free.
Curious.. how much did you get it for, does it run and how many miles? TY!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, very helpful!!!
Awesome video. I'm about to pull mine and have done half the work, you've helped me navigate the rest. Only issue I have is deciding how to best establish a lift point at the rear of the motor since there's no factory point. Would have loved to see how you did that at the end of the video.
There are a few ways to do that. I have found the easiest way is to buy a threaded eyelet from McMaster-Carr - try this URL: www.mcmaster.com/eyebolts/thread-size~m8/application~for-lifting/ Thread that into the spot on the head where the AC compressor bracket was installed. I use a Harbor Freight load balancer between the engine and hoist, but it's not explicitly required.
@@jva8291 Thanks for that! I was going to leave the air conditioning bracket and compressor in place and just remove the hoses. I'll suss out the best options next week when I'm back in the garage.
Hi. I have a 2005 jeep liberty. How did you access the torque converter bolts. Also it's your rear main seal leaking
Gathered a lot of information from this video. I would kill for a new set of camshafts for my 900i 16v from 1987. The current ones show some wear. Do you know some marketplaces where I can find some?
Can you post some information about the install? Parts and sources please
I need help. 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Diesel: I was pulling 4k pounds for about 500 miles and the last 80 miles was a solid gradual up hill. I noticed it wasn't going into over drive about 20 miles before the big problem started. We heard a pop. Not a super loud pop but a pop any way. Noticed there was zero oil but was idling fine, just no power at all. It would move a foot and stop so I quickly shut her down. Sent a friend down 6 hours from home to pick it up. He poured a gallon of oil in it and it all ran out. He said a lot of oil was coming out of the exhaust. It doesn't overheat or smell like burnt antifreeze. Also there was no check engine light on but the oil light did come on a little and I added some oil but the oil light went off and never came back on. Did I blow my motor or am I lucky enough that this could be just the turbo or something even cheaper? I can't afford this right now. =(
very informative vid , thank you
Did you find out?
Your entire carb moves at 15 seconds in..
Read all about your posts on the site. Excellent writeup. Do you still have the car? Hows it running so far?
Hi I also replaced my factory carb (Carter afb) of my 66 Deville with a new Edelbrock and stumbled about the same problem with the kickdownswitch. Do you may have any kind of advice for me? Or a kind of sketch, how you solved that problem? Greets from Germany
was this a build your own switch pitch sensor?
Yep - the factory qjet was having some issues and I couldn't find anyone to rebuild it for a reasonable price. I picked up the Edelbrock with a hefty discount.... Good enough for now. ;)
Worthless effort.
Did you find out what caused this leak?
how do u hook up cruise to that carb
Looks like mine is leaking about right there, but there's usually only one drop. On mine it looks like ATF fluid as it's red when wiped off.
useless video. stop wasting our time
great job thank you so much
yeah F eetwoo!
what is the point of the vid if you don't show how
what is the music?