Відео

Simply beautiful

The random spark form the magneto could be that the armature bushing (the vertical sliding bushing) is worn causing the armature to not break away parallel from the iron core. These are easy to replace and available on-line. Also you can replace the outside wico cover that has a kill button installed, also available on-line. I see that you did not lower the spark advance lever when it started running. This will advance the spark to get the fuel/air mix burning sooner that is needed for the higher RPM. good luck with the Stover.

I have a 4hp stover with a Webster mag. The problem I always deal with is carb. I have it running on propane. A few times when I got it hot from working it I got it to run on diesel as well. They are awesome to tinker with. I always get enjoyment when thinking how these engines once had a purpose and some poor sap was pissed dealing with same nonsense you're dealing with

The spark should happen about 6 degrees before TDC.

Next time do a drawing of the head, number the holes on the drawing and the bolt heads

Your H is not a 1940. In mid 1941, they used the 3 hole dash because electric start was introduced. The dash would have originally had a break ot plug in the center hole for hand start tractors. You can check the serial number, and it will tell you the year. One identifier I see is the curve in the governor line, the 1940 line would be straight. The curved line was used to allow room for the starter, and was used on all tractors from mid '41 on. Someone added the ammeter to plug the hole...

Can you share the valve spring compressor name and part no? I need to lap valves on my cub tractor.

The fan shroud keeps it aligned

Maybe a crack between the thermo siphon system and the actual engine block?

i would never use any sealent on the gasket no need to use any gasket sealer on any head gaskets but thats not your problem ...

did you bring the head and block to a machine shop,, even if you use a stright edge on the head and block you may never see a worped head or block,, iv machined a ton of blocks and heads and ever body all ways says O O O its stright ,, i would use the bearings headgasket valves if you never cranked it over ... did you use a skuffie pad on any of the surfaces, id say looks like heads cracked .. no water in crank case .. id guess its the head

Can be a real treat to get off. JD buff primer is far superior to just about anything else. Better adhesion, and way better surface contamination tolerance. JD Paint is good stuff.

Well, bless your heart, Wayne. That was quite a job. It is always wise to make safety the top priority. ❤😊

Good video 👍🏼, but using a torque wrench as a ratchet is a bad bad idea .

❤ This is one of the neatest persons I have ever met.

You need to put a thicker coat on the sheetmetal to get rid of the orange peel finish. Also, you may not have added enough reducer.

I get my parts from rusted red akers. He is all IH. And his farms are made in the US.

I have worked on old vehicles and restored a few as well. It's not abnormal to have set back, I'm sure you will figure it out. Some of the other commenters have some good advice. I have faith you will have it up and running soon. Please keep us posted on this if you can. I'm curious with what you come up with. Thank you for the video.

Pressure washer my man

I.ALWAYS USE COPPER COAT SPRAY BOTH SIDES OF HEAD GASKET. AND WIRE WHEEL THE HEAD BOLTS AND COAT THEM ALL WITH BLUE PERMATEX SILICONE. FIRST CHASING THE HEAD THREADED BOLT HOLES .WITH THE BOLT FOR THAT HOLE TO MAKE SURE ALL IS GOING TO GO SMOOTH...HAVE FUN

Im an 80 year old RETIRED mechanic and I know coppercoat on the head gaskets USED to be the GO TO sealant for head gaskets but todays gasket makers tells us NOT TO USE ANY TYPE OF GASKET SEALER on the Head Gaskets and that was the first thing I noted was coppercoat on the head gasket

Looking good.

I am currently redoing a 52. After that, a 54! Love these little tractors!!!

I ❤ your old car, Wayne!

This might be a stupid question, but did you use a straightedge to check both the top of the block as well as the head to make sure they were straight? If the head is warped as you suspect, it would possibly show up with this test. I would suspect the head as well since the water was in all of the cylinders. If you have a good machine shop nearby they may be able to plane the head. They should also be able to deck the block to ensure a really good mating surface.

What paint did you end up using?

I dunno why but I love farmall tractors especially the cub.

Go Ducks!!!

It looks as though the head bolt holes have water in them which means the holes are connected to the water jacket. If that is the case, the head bolts need to be sealed when they are installed. Otherwise, water will infiltrate via the head bolt hole.

These were great tractors for small fruit farms. This was the first tractor I every drove. I was only around 10 years old and too short to reach the pedals and sit on the seat. The offset design made it great for mowing because you could see the sickle bar underneath you as you were mowing. It was also small enough to drive through the orchards pulling a flatbed wagon to collect pallets of fruit. These were extremely popular in my area with all the family fruit farms.

Use copper paint on the head gasit and can used for 2 time. I do it all time 1943 farmaĺl

Good luck. Maybe have the head checked out.

Rectorseal 5

Did you put pipe dope around head bolt threads? water coming up bolts from water jackets.

Wow, Wayne, that's coming along nicely. ❤😊

Compression release??

What is the value of the cub after restoration

You're a better painter than I could ever be. My wife won't let me paint inside the house. When I paint outside, she warns the neighbors.

I forgot to comment on the last video. Your painting process is really thorough.

Nice paint booth. I like your innovativeness painting the wheel hub.

I enjoyed this.

Is the misaligned pin on the same side as the bent radiator bracket? If so, perhaps whatever bent the radiator bracket also caused the pin misalignment. In that case, I would have looked for the lower half of the split axle tube to be slightly deformed. That would cause the misalignment and not be all that obvious.

I'm enjoying every one of these videos even though I seem to be watching them out of order.

I'm watching the videos out of order but I'm enjoying them.

I seem to be watching these videos out of order.

Another great video.

Great video. Thanks.

I stumbled across one of your videos. Your process of restoring this little Farmall looked so interesting that I plan to binge watch them all. I subscribed in case there are more in the future.

Awesome job

It nice to see this old iron being brought back to life.