Відео

I'll message you on Cults when I get a moment.

​@FulcrumAirsoft Thankyou so much!

highly recommend comboing that with a TRIDOS hopup adjuster dial kit! makes instant and accurate adjustment a breeze.

I've done it enough that those days are behind me.

@paul.r84 I've made it public, might have bust the link by mistake. Just go to my Cults page and you'll find it.

You should be fine to use any shell as long as it dumps the gas instantaneously, but I've only used open fronts. I use a pair of Nuprols.

That's ridiculous

@ it’s because there are two” concerned” for what could happen with them and they don’t even allow thunder bs at my field

cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/kuba-t-1000-hpa-engine-print-fixed-all-credit-to-kuba_t1000

Plain old AAP, £80ish. Burst+ Tracer around £100.

The port is unnecessary in my opinion. Most of the volume stuff is needless and just a waste of time.

​@@FulcrumAirsoftI'd say that it may be useless for the low quality guns and, It is even a downgrade for DMRs, but, for all the other guns with standard rps or hier, it will require that port in order to make the retraction of the piston easier for the hole system. Less stress on the system means more longevity. I'm talking about long term tho. Obviously, it has to be witout sharp edges too. The proof of all that is that, If a gun is upgraded for the rps over a certain point, This becomes a requirement since it will literally restrain the piston from going faster and can even cause problems with feeding. You should make reaserches or reliable testing projects before saying that all the ingeneers of the hole industry make stupid ideas...

@@anthonytetreault1511 When I upgraded my Steyr-AUG A5 "Barrett" to become a DMR, I also removed that ported cylinder and replaced it with a stainless steel cnc-machined one with an integrated head. No more leakages or wobble in that department. The plastic hopup-unit went and was replaced with an aluminium cnc-machined one. I used a new AUG-V3 with quick spring change and got rid of the full-auto by simply removing the copper plate at the exterior trigger that would normally close the circuit for full-auto. Turning my SR25 into single only took a lot more effort than this. AEG's with long barrels may have difficulties with rapid fire in general, although I wouldn't really know from my own experience, as I'd rather use single shots (except in case of my MG42, of course, but that upgrading project is not yet finished). The AUG does have a rather long barrel. I noticed that this particular one has been fitted for quite some rapid fire, with the double sector gear and a 7-tooth piston. Not my cup of tea, but anyway, there is bound to be some physical relationship between your intended rate of fire and the capability of the trapped air to be expelled through that long barrel, after which the piston needs to be retracted in time for the next shot, in this case in a very short time. So, yes, I get that this may require a port of some sort to make the travel more convenient, but, shouldn't the piston-head allow for the removal of most of the air resistance in that movement? I never delved into that issue that much yet, as I didn't go for high rates of fire, but in my humble experience, swapping a ported cylinder for a non-ported one improved the performance and consistency of my AEG's enough so as to convince me that I don't need such ports. But, I don't do rapid fire, so...

Thanks mate. Well I learnt why the Mk1 is overhopping, the Sugru has caved inwards. For the most part all of the guns are set up and I don't want to fiddle with the hop unit.

It's all the dust

Trying to avoid that acronym for semi-obvious reasons.

I need this

Awesome, I've had one recently that would fire if I rolled it off the top of my foot. My aim is to make a viable impact fuze for woodland and field.

2 Carriages at once can cause firing issues. Good caps will give you a good bang. I tested a customers Meteor-Lite yesterday and that particular cap ring was so loud I felt the air disturbance and it disturbed dust on the floor.

How are you launching them?

@@FulcrumAirsoft with normal 40mm Gas grenades and Greengas

@@pascalkrause5232 How is the fit between the Burster and the barrel?

@@FulcrumAirsoft the fit is Not sealing well ans its a little rough. How can i Seal it?

Will do tomorrow.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176018705826?var=475459316091

@@FulcrumAirsoft ?

Those are the springs I use for the main spring.

@@FulcrumAirsoft thanks

Not especially, too busy respawning.

Have to double check the helmet. But my Gopro is a Hero 10 Black. Which was sent to me from Gopro as a replacement for my 8 Black which randomly packed up.

Yes that will be fine, the WIMA was a polyester. You probably can get away without the capacitor but it'll make it that little bit more stable

Very good sport, as is Rachael. They both make up a lot of my kills, don't know what I'd do without them. In seriousness, the calibre of players at Commando is something else. Everyone there is a great sport.

The remote mine is featured in the first minute. That's what I planted.

You honestly might have to improvise. Or print some. I can't find bits for the AWS anywhere.

@@FulcrumAirsoft I have cyma CM703 L96 and those of yours looks like they are the same ones as i had. I was thinking about 3d printing them but i can't find the exact measures of them.

@@NemanjaSkakavac When I get a moment I'll measure mine for you.

@@FulcrumAirsoft You are awesome. Thanks a lot. :D

Need more camo mate :)

I've used it once so far. Using the UMP when my GoPro was still being returned. The "tunnel" between the two rooms was a tight crawl and I had to take my vest off to fit through so I could fire from the front room and retreat to the back. I got a couple of kills before, if I remember correctly; Baku shot me in the foot from the other room. The issue with that bunker is it ends up being reached by the attacking force very quickly, like what we did in the video. It's again something that could work with a coordinated defence, with a solid defence down the left and right to force the attackers down the middle. But even then the front room will become very hot in a hurry with the whole attacking force firing at the window. Maybe some grenades over the top/indirect fire will soften up the attackers. But you've got to be wary of the attackers climbing up and firing from the top, again like in the video. The Satellite bunker stage of Rush is usually the quickest one. The second stage which you've often seen from the caravan on this channel is where the attackers can win or lose the game. Get this stage over with quickly and your team has saved a lot of time, balls it up and watch the game time out as your team gets bogged down and wiped out on Pegasus bridge (why I always tell our team to avoid attacking across the bridge). The first stage is so-so, it can be a real slog but usually quite easy to capture with a little bit of coordination (distraction force around the back followed by a large force pushing forward). I have a bit of an obsession with strategical goals in airsoft, not just the tactical side of things. Such as avoiding excess casualties, no human waves, making sure the team doesn't knacker themselves out. Pyrrhic victories and all that, run around like madmen to win one game and lose all the others because everyone is so worn out.

Cheers mate.

No, been advised not to by site owners. They're not keen on printed BFGs, caps are fine. In fact a decent ring of caps is nearly comparable to a .209 according to several of my customers.

@@FulcrumAirsoft damn thats a shame, I printed the meteorite couple days ago, hoping my home field doesn't consider it pyro, any tips on getting it louder??

@@NotaTech_ Well in the UK caps are considered exempt from being a pyrotechnic article as they're designed to be used by kids. The Meteorites weigh less than most pyros and even if they go off in your hand it shouldn't be an issue. For max loudness, use decent caps. I recommend Sohni-Wicke caps, avoid cheap ripoffs. Keep the caps dry and occasionally clean the carriages of any soot.

Yeah tip for the spring action sniper I had, spray only a tiny fraction of a second in both ends of the barrel towards the blockage, and don't get any around the very ends, but into the barrel by an inch or a couple of centimetres.. just so there's less chance of gunkin up your hop unit or any moving parts..👍 save it losing a hundred fps suddenly and make sure it's not like greasy oily.. gas or hpa snipers you can sort of skip half the cleaning by shooting without a BB so the gas clears the lubricants but it's more a by hand thing/job with a springer(hilarious to say because they do have issues like this but I find them just as good given the right spring but just not as reliable.. but yeah, that one springer sniper is the lowest cost gun I own, full stop.. few years, few springs, a few failures but never cost my hundreds like the rest of my collection.. sorry to rant, but for any first time Airsofters or new to it i didn't know this stuff for like a couple of years.. so I'll leave the info, rant and I hope someone can make use of this comment someday..👍

Thank you for giving me the opportunity to do so.