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Hi Giada! The stitch count should never change. The beginning of the round just shifts by one stitch with each round you knit. I hope that’s helpful!

I’m so glad you found this helpful, Daniela! What a thoughtful gift & lucky husband!

I’m so glad you found this helpful, Mary Jo! Thank you for letting me know!

Hi Ruth! Thank you for your question. I have always encountered this heel flap when it begins with a right side row. This is likely just to ensure that the ribbed effect of this stitch pattern begins as soon as you start working the heel flap. I’m sure it would still work just fine if you needed to begin from the wrong side, though. That’s one of the great things about knitting; there is often more than one way to get a good result! I recommend starting with a right side row, centering your heel flap over the beginning of round from the leg of your sock. Happy knitting!

@@knittusentakk8403 Thank you. I think I will try it on my next pair. I've only done it once I believe. I usually only knit an Eye of Partridge. I appreciate your help!!!

@@pheeinpa52 Eye of Partridge is beautiful! I hope you like this method, too. It’s one of my favorites! Now you have me wanting to knit socks. :)

Yay! I’m so glad this was helpful, Steph!

I hope this works well for you, Lyanne!

I am so glad to hear you found this helpful, Hope! Thank you for watching.

Hello, Lyanne! Yes, that is a great solution for protecting your present/future sweaters from a stretched out neckline! I love that hack, too. The crochet trick in this video should be just perfect for the sweater you found that has a ready stretched a bit, though! The one thing I would say is that if it has stretched a lot, you want to be sure to watch your tension as you crochet your slip stitches around the neckline to reinforce it. If you crochet too tightly when the fabric is very stretched, you may see puckering when you wear the sweater. So, I would just be careful not to pull too tightly as you crochet, and then try it on before you weave in the ends to see if you’re happy with it. I hope it works out well! Keep me posted, if you think of it! :)

@@knittusentakk8403 Thank you! I used the same aran yarn in the same colour as the jumper, and having used a 5mm needle to knit it, chose a 5mm hook for the crochet and starting with a long tail of yarn. I took my time to keep the tension loose and looking the same all the way round. (A few times, I released some stitches so I could go back to keep it consistent.). When I'd finished, I cut the ball off yarn away leaving another long tail of yarn. Instead of darning the ends away immediately, I tied them in a bow with a double knot, so I could pull it out easily if it was too tight (or too loose) and just wore the jumper for a week to see what happened. It really did help stop the sagging 🙂 and I'm so glad I did this! It didn't miraculously make the jumper fit as well as the second jumper I'd done, as I'd added extra rounds of decreasing to bring it down a size round the neck, so 2nd jumper is warmer - but there's no way it could have done that. Ends are neatly darned away now. Thank you again for a great tip and your advice to me!

That is such a smart way to test it out! Thank you for sharing that. I am so glad to hear you were able to successfully revive your sweater! It’s always nice to have another tool in your mending tool belt. Thank you so much for letting me know how it went for you. Wishing you many more hand knits with great fit in your future!

I’m so glad to hear you found this helpful, Jane!

Hi Jane! I’m so glad you love the Dutch Heel! I do, too. I’m sorry to hear you’ve been experiencing trouble with using the heel in fingering weight, though! 12 stitches at the end of the heel turn seems appropriate to me, given your total stitch count, though you can always customize these numbers to create a sock that fits YOU best, rather than following the standard formula. For example, you could try starting the heel with 12 center stitches & 9 on each side, thus ending the heel with 14 stitches. HOWEVER, I also should clarify that knitting/purling a stitch after the ssk/p2tog stitch could be what is causing the issue! I have most commonly seen this technique done by completing the ssk/p2tog, then immediately turning the work, slipping a stitch & knitting/purling back the other direction. Adding a knit/purl stitch after the ssk/k2tog would essentially narrow the heel twice as quickly, and may be what is causing your fabric to pucker at the heel. I hope this is helpful! If that’s not the issue, another option would be to try using a slightly larger needle just for the heel turn, but I don’t think you will need to if you omit the extra k/p stitch. I hope your heels fit perfectly going forward! Please let me know if this needs further clarification, or if you run into any trouble. Happy knitting!

@@knittusentakk8403 wow - thank you so much for the hints, and for such a quick reply! i'll be checking out both suggestions on my next pair of socks. i've got to knit the perfect heel! perfect heel or bust 🧦😄

Great! I hope your next heel is the perfect one!

Thank you! I do have more videos planned for the future. I’m so glad you find them helpful!

You are very welcome! I’m so glad you found this helpful!

Same here! So glad to find this.

You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!

I’m so glad you found this helpful! Thank you for watching!

Thanks so much! I'm glad you found this one helpful.

Hi Jannet! Thank you for your question. To use this heel on a toe-up sock, you would need to use a modified version called "The Reverse Dutch Heel." I can't find a video tutorial for you, but there is a good set of written instructions (with photos) here, if you're interested: www.socknitters.com/toe-up/lessonfour.htm I hope that's helpful! Good luck with your socks!