Відео

Lotta people, like if you read the comments below, just use a piece of speaker wire tightened down within those horizontal openings you can see there as well.

Typically they can take a lil more wattage. But any amount of gain in volume you'd get, which would be very minimal since it takes like twice as much power to gain 3dB more, would be offset by shorter life-span of the hardware. The more juice you're pumpin' in... the more heat it'll be exposed to. Heat is one of the biggest enemies of electronics. But, it kind of "depends". If you're giving it more electricity, but the programming signal isn't harsh stuff to reproduce, you'd probably be fine... however, if the incoming waveform it's to recreate is, let's say, a clipped signal, so therefore a squared-off wave form... you're asking that electrocmagnetism force to launch that cone forward, then stop it on a dime, and come back down immediately as well. Which will cause level of heat caused to increase.

Ehhh jus use some gorilla glue and she's good to go 😅

It's either something that's in ya or it's not. The same things that'd make you do well on video, are the same things that'd make you do well in person with a female. I've done MC duties before when I was working my DJ equipment to pay for the cost of it after I bought it. Just so I'd recoup the expenses for a hobby I like. And sometimes your being asked to help guide activities in somebodies important function so you're herding the cats so-to-speak, so ya develop a tone for those duties that's warm, yet instructing the guests where to go and what's happening next. Plus occasionally I take out some lyrics from the like 250+ emails I've wrote to myself over the years with the lyrics saved in tehm.... and I'll throw together a rap track for it. Have some up on SoundClick. It's cool seein' people trip out that it's actually you their hearing and head-bobbin' to!

@@TheGDizzo Interesting. I am on one video done by Second Chance Hiker who developed quite a following in 2019 and continued his hiking in Europe, Canada and Asia, but has not been making new ones very frequently for a while. I am an oldies fan and discovered that I have some talent in writing new lyrics to popular oldies, especially hiker themed lyrics, but I only have a mediocre voice. Anyway, you can see me doing a rough and raw version of "My Hike" (subsequently revised a bit making it smoother with rhyming fixes. The video title is Song of Semper Gumby That's my Trail Name. It means Always Flexible in US Marine Corps slang and a few other places. Cory, aka Second Chance also does a good job validating my non-typical hiker status. btw I am hoping to re attack the PCTs again before long bc there are sections I have missed and parts worth revisiting.

@@paulrevere2379 I checked out parts of it. Like around Pacifico and another time when I went on this hike with Mama's group where we did 3 peaks in 2 counties in 1 day. The 321 challenge. And there were pockets of snow, and my lowerback was pretty hurting, so when your leg would all of a sudden sink in.. the shock of bottoming out would hurt the crap out of my areas of injury. Getting epidural shots lately has helped quite a bit. Got em again recently with hunting season almost here. I can't risk being too out of it far from the truck. Even though I make sure to bring opiates just in case I break something again. In D14 these past couple of years. It's been interesting adapting to a new area and different kind of habitat / topography, more Alpine. With hills covered in endless buckthorn. Spotted one at 600yds up this mtn last year. Tried to make a play to cut the distance, but ya have to look down so much at your feet. With all that heinous thick pokey stuff, I needed to spend more time trying to go up slower, stopping more to re-glass him up. Cause he wasn't there anymore when I halved the distance. And it was pretty vert too, and was cold for SoCal cityboy me at 25F Especially when these clouds moved in and thru where I was trying to make a sit. Being in that cloud made it way colder! I tried to move my sit into the Sun light. I had to I was shivering too badly. Needed just a leeeetle more layers and I'd have been good. Since then have found and tested some base layer pairs so I'll be GTG this year, if they open the damn closed road back up.

@@TheGDizzo I haven't used it in a while, but some surfers taught me about using heavy doses of vitamin C. idk how it works but it makes you feel less cold for doing stuff like that. Otherwise I am a huge fan of wool, socks, sweater and gloves especially. I do miss SoCal weather, but so much is not what I recall from 25+ years ago. Last visit was 2019. Wrightwood was encouraging to me, but not much else. I do know there's still good people there and I caution those who try to lump all Californians as the same. You know.

@@paulrevere2379 It's just that nobody is teaching these schmucks today of how the politicos nowadays are using simple psychology tricks and word associations to demonize the other side of a debate, with all their virtue-signalling and gas-lighting and brow-beating with the cancel-culture. Guess they all forget what happens when someone can cancel your speech? And I also guess they forgot how to just "change the channel"??

"The only true freedom any of us will ever have, is in what we choose to believe."

Why would it compromise the seal? They have that built-in rubber ring so when you tighten down the the speaker to the box, it compresses that rubber ring to create a seal every time. And besides, you can just always apply a bead of silicone around the bottom of that ring too. If you need to remove, just take care to completely remove old silicone before putting another new bead around it. Type X's came down huh? It's alright. If I do decide to do up my new truck, it'll be just an 8" or maybe a 6" in something like T-Line or a folded tapped horn. I have an Insubnia build I did with a Tang Band 6". I made it for parties since the driver is concealed inside the box drunk party guests can't push on the cone and other stupid things they do.

Get a multimeter and set it to Ohms and give it a check, also goto Sonicelectronix.com and check out their wiring diagrams for subwoofer configurations. You'll find one with a single sub with dual voice-coil like yours. There are two ways to wire-it basically. It'll show you both.

Yeah, it's just trying for 'yotes ATM. But damn man... an old injury I had got re-hurt last year when I came down with C19, and I sincerely think I'm gonna have to get surgery done on it. Had MRI's done and have like 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm encroachment into the foramin space in the vertebral column in the lumbar. And that accident way back then, it pounded the crap out of my saccrum. And there was another one which jammed my leg into my hip socket hard. Both of those got crazy aggravated from all the inflamation C19 invoked in me. And then after I got to feeling a little better went to go try use the isometric machines at our local park and this one that's like a military press... but sorta up and outward at an angle... when I had to push real hard I heard a sound and that area by my tailbone just got all jacked. Since then I have to dope-up for my hike-in and hike-outs. And taking sits when making calling stands..ugh.. fucking kills man. BUT... I can't do shit about it yet until AFTER I cough up the loot like child-support to our Income Tax payment~! I'm actually apprehensive about when I finally go get seen about this, as I feel pretty certain this shit is gonna require going under the knife and all that down time so *may* end up having to skip this 2021 season. I'll have to see. Maybe I can try Steroid injections to push it into next year possibly.

If I remember right I opted to make the ending Ohms be 8Ohms since most home stereo stuff expects 8 Ohms. For wiring diagrams just goto SonicElectronix.com and observe their various diagrams. If I remember right... I had to do a little of both.. series and parallel wiring in order to make the desired Ohm load present to the amp. One way of wiring makes the Ohms add together , the other way makes the Ohms divide in half.

TheGDizzo thank you, I will try

The instruction manual for this model clearly showed it THIS way. Do with that information what you will.

That's what I mean I'm with you on this! We installed them as the instructions show which is how you did it and we also had problems, but when we did a video advising people not to do it as per the instructions, a lot of people started saying we installed them wrong, when the instructions calls for them to be installed how you did it.

Huh? Just something decent that goes to 600 Watts RMS on 2 Ohms. Had mine on a Pioneer. The quality of the wiring feeding the amp... and having a daul-battery system where the battery is nearby the amp on a relay... and maybe a few little amp features like an LPF and HPF are more important. And besides... if you have the room to make a T-Line box... you'd only need like a 150W driver to get similar amount of sound.

@@TheGDizzo I've got Machete MMA-1100.1d. I don't know if it sounds right because I don't have much to compare with. I don't know as well if I have setup it properly... meaning the amp gain, etc.

@@y_y6153 Well... quick Google search shows it as being 650W @ 2 Ohms, so should be fine. Search to find out the procedure for tuning your amp gain. It's easy. And SonicElectronix as Subwoofer wiring guides so you'll be able to visualize and understand that you're wiring it right.

TheGDizzo thanks, already googled a bunch of stuff before. Ended up with gain somewhere around 3 O’clock. I assume that at the lowest point gain is at below zero dB. Also let’s make a quick test once you are able. Turn on the “Mobb Deep - Shook Ones p.2” on your R. And tell me if the baseline would sound decent (it’s more of a punchy boom style). A lot of tracks sound rather good and punchy on my R. But some tracks really have slightly noticeable baseline. Even my previous Focal RSB did a better job on shook ones which is strange. R should be times better I guess... at least louder, punchier.

@@y_y6153 Ok..oh boy.. obviously you didn't google anything regarding setting your gain, and you're trying to bullshit me now. Look... to set your gain... you start off with your gain set to lowest setting.... then turn on your music.... put the volume at 75% of max.... slowly turn up the gain until hear any distortion begin to happen... that's when you've gone too high up... back down just enough from there to have the distortion go away, then you're golden. There are other, more precise ways of doing it. But this method works just fine.

And a fine Good Morning to you as well M'Lady! And exactly why?... pre tell, would I be a "POS"? It's certainly rude manners to just barge in somewhere, call a person a POS, and not offer the detail and insight as to WHY you have this conclusion, no? At the moment, you would be doing, what is known in the 'hood as "Being all up in the Kool-Aid, don't know the Flava." I gather you have issues with hunting? Then why would you willfully seek it out, in order to just barge in to be a rude Human who doesn't have a thorough understanding about the subject matter at hand, only to just waggle your finger at everyone? Virtue-Signalling perhaps? (Quick perusal of your channel... ah..yes...ok.. "Vegan"... gotcha.) I have to imagine you are unaware of just how many animals YOUR lifestyle decimates on a daily basis then? ua-cam.com/video/KosS-_J1ghc/v-deo.html

What Ohm load is your sub box wired up as? For an example goto SonicElectronix.com and look at their sub wiring diagrams in order for you to visually understand what I'm asking you about. It could be that you inadvertantly wired the subs up to present as a 1 Ohm load to your amp, and perhaps your amp only goes down to 2 Ohm stable output? So if you wired it up wrong, it'd try to pull more draw than it was built to handle and prematurely fail.

Get wolfram amp. Best bang for buck

B bb bb r. B day at the b bb. BB. Bbb. B b. B. E BB by Bb

Definitely order yourself a flared port kit. Once you've figured out which Frequency you'd like to tune your port around... the Flared port kits have a formula shown... you plug in that frequency... it comes up with the length to cut the pipe to BEFORE slapping on the flared end-cap pieces. That way you can push it HARD without getting any kind of chuffing noise at the port. You *may* also experiment with stapling Hi-Loft Quilt batting on all the inside sides within the sub box.It works on slowing down some of the air during it's exit out and thus lowering the bass even more and making it more boomy and draw-out. Refer to their specs for an optimal ported enclosure. Also learn and get familiar with that WinISD desktop app. YOu can experiment in there with what is the internal volume, the volume occupied by the port... what diameter the port or ports are... and pay attention to the Port Vent Speed or Port Vent Mach Speed. The lower the value the better. Try to make it at least .7 or .5 Your enclosure shape may disallow you the ability to make just one port that can get a decent tune and vent mach speed. In such instances, you try setting it up with 2 or more vents.Usually that way allows you to reach the low freqs you want, without this ridiculous long and undoable port length being deeded. Also in WinISD you can plug in the .NET internal volume and the port and all the stuff about the driver.. and then it can graph for you the output it would produce with your ports tuned to a partiuclar prequency. It's no doubt ending up being a tuning point of somewhere around 30hz to 40hz with 36Hz likely being the optimal curve that it plots. So then you fart around with setting up the ports...in order to achieve a lowest Vent Mach speed, like a.7 or .5 so you don't hear chuffing hardly at all. But for the tuned frequency that gave you the tallest curve in it's graphic function, if your enclosure is not very long in dimension than this problem may require setting it up instead with 2 ports of same diameter and length, still setup with that nice flared port kit! IF doing a port style which uses walls of the build for it... make sure to use a 1/4 rounding bits to smooth out and rollever the two sharp edges which are very near to one another.

That actually sounds like a decent option! Does it need to be high-temp silicone?

@@TheGDizzo no any silicone will do

It's to wire the sub from 4 ohm to 2ohm or if you have the double 2 ohm version to wire it to 1ohm.

Or 4 ohm if it's a dvc 2

I just used the Enclosure Calculators over on DB DYNAMIX Audio - dbdynamixaudio.com/category/calculators/

Cheers, looks like the link is no longer active :(

I have some spare timber that is 3.5" wide I could have some fun with though :)

@@3rutu5 Ahh..damn it! I liked using their calculators! Gotta be someplace else to find em. They were just spreadsheets w/ formulas in em.

Hey Thanx Man! Wish I could have kept on riding that bike. My Vision went south real fast between 45-50. Also had a slip and fall while crossing a creek the day after Christmas in 2015 while looking for Black Bear. And truthfully, I really need to have the Ortho dr get back in there and take back out the plate and the 13 screws. Several kinds of movements that wrist really doesn't like anymore and it'll hurt a bit. Anyhoo, I found a new loving home for that KX with some guy living out there not too far away from the Slash-X ranch. So at least she went to a good home!

Yeah, just checked that out. The higher prices that it. At the time, apparently they'd done a buyout of that particular model number. And apparently those were made BEFORE all the new rules regarding handling of waste materials generated by mining and processing of rare-earth metal had kicked in, causing that huge jump in price for anything with neodymium.

You'd have to really be trying hard to get 'em that hot.

9" x 3.5", and the slot goes most of the way back. I just used the box calculators over on dbdynamixaudio.com/category/calculators/ (You're welcome! And while you're there, definitely make use of their calculator for T-Line boxes and make yourself one for a sub! T-Line subs are soo awesome it's not funny!)

It's in there, just gotta look around until you find little spots of it that are next to other places they might need.

Try closer to a camp site named chilao it is nice you have best of both world you can climb some mountains or stay in some nice pines or go to some rock and rough stuff

I would suggest trying it I’ve seen lots of does and if the rut is early that would be your best bet

Well I noticed they did a simple fix by flipping their orientation on the subsequent release such that the jumpers push-in from the top down. That fix should most likely handle this issue.

@@TheGDizzo can you farther explain because the zip ties aren't working for me. Are there any other alternative methods that I could use

Not working how? It's reDONKulously simple. If you're having problems mustering the finger strength to zip it closed tightly enough, try grabbing the one end with needle-nosed pliers and do a rotating motion with the pliers starting by grasping it right next to the cinching hole of the ziptie. With needle-nose you can zip'em up real damn tight.

@@TheGDizzo mine are. Wired to one ohm stable and I believe that it's too much power because they fell out still after tightly zip tying them

Mine was being pushed by a Pioneer DM9500F running with 4-gauge and a second battery on a relay right next to it feeding it. Ran like that for years before this issue cropped up. Hrmm... here's an idea... just had to do some plumbing repairs so thought of this... I'd bet that if you got a nice Soldiering iron, and some of that thick soldier they use for plumbing, I'll bet you could melt a drop of it down into those jacks and that'd do it. You'd probably have to also use the soldiering iron again in the future when you needed to remove it. But chances are unlikely you'd need to for a long long time.

I suggest you consult Apline's own documention and illustrations.

TheGDizzo I suggest you throw that instructions manual out and consult the forums and other owners . It’s been a ongoing issue with these subs for a long time . All the experience users already know to shove them in with the wires

Wow... and to think I solved the problem with a piddly little zip-tie. Hmph. Amazing.

@@i_read_bad_reviews Just because the forums and other owners say so, doesn't mean he's got them in the wrong spot. He has them where the manufacture designed them to go.

uBreakIt iRepairIt obviously the manufacturer messed up. 🤦‍♂️ That’s what the whole video was about....

Yeah I'd seriously go back and do the zip-tie thing to ensure they don't fall out during usage.

Interesting. I'm assuming you're talking about a more high-end 12 with more Xmax then?

Don't know what you been smokin'... but I want some of it! I just checked my Videos... and I have no other videos pertaining to an Alpine Type R. So your comment here... all of a sudden becomes real interesting, HA!

There are diagrams available on www.sonicelectronix.com Also Apline includes wiring diagrams with the product in the packaging.

I have two and I have them wired to 1 ohm

You cannot wire 2 dual 4ohms to 2ohms your gonna have to get 2 dual 2ohm subs and wire them in series thatll get you 2ohm load

itsjosh403 You can wire 2 dual 4 ohm subs to 2 ohms just not together, most mono amps have 2 sets of positive and negative so wire each dual 4 sub in parallel to 2 ohms and run it off each set of terminals off the amp or if the amp has just one you can out both positives from each sub to the positive and same with the negative

@@cjon24s69 quick question for you man; what if I'm running the same set up but with one dual voice coil 4 ohm sub to 2 ohm load, with a 4 terminal mono block amp? Would i wire up all four of the terminals from the single dual voice coil 4 ohm sub as a 2 ohm to it?

Sorry.. I've not worked with the Peerless ones so I don't know.

I'm currently trying to fill my Bobcat tag. I called one in super close, but didn't know it. IT was like after a damn hour of sitting and my lower back was killing me. Had to stand up, when I did.. OH SHIT! There he was... like 10yds to my extreme right! Crouched behind a small bush. Just saw his nose and tops of ears. Figured didn't dare try to sit back down, that he'd see the movement. Tried to reposition my hands into trigger and execute the multiple steps to rotate myself... little bits at a time... freezing whenever saw his head move at all. At certain point... he raises his head and sniffs at the air. Looks at me. I freeze. Adrenalin really kicks in then. The leaves on my camo were no doubt trembling a teeny bit and he probably saw that. He decided something is not right with that bush and retreats slowly and carefully, pausing after each few steps and looking right back at me... then when gets behind a taller bush in-between us... he keeps that bush in-between in his retreat to the thick. He meets up with low buck-brush before the thick... he's leaping over them.. I try to time it and a shoot where I thought we was going to land about 3rd or 4th leap in, but yeah, that wasn't happenin'. Went back last weekend. Fucking nothing... all damn day. Just crows and a couple of Hawks. I feel pretty sure it's the crappy ICOTec 300 caller I'm using. Gonna try to go back out there again and focus more on mouth calls, and only use eCaller once I see the animal expose themselves to help ensure they lock-in on the Motion Decoy. Also I gotta try to leave my house even earlier because it takes me about 1hr45min to hike back up in there. I want to arrive there when it's darker in the morning. This last time was like 6:50am. I wanna get there even a little earlier to make sure they don't see me coming in to this key spot I wanna hit first.

Just grab ahold of WinISD and install that. You input all the Theile-Small parameters that describes the driver... then in their forms where it plots the graph for you.... you experiment with enclosure volume and desired port frequency tuning. Try to get a tuning for the port air speed (mach) goes down to like lower than .07 The lower the better, but the lower you go the port size and length starts to get ridiculous so ya just have to find a good middle point where you can actually pit a port of that opening size and of that length within the enclosure you intended to build and still it has the recommended internal volume after you subtract however much mounting the driver itself will also subtract from that inner volume.

"Why be normal?" :)

Pretty sure I'm going to try to take my next shot at a coyote with the .17 HMR I got. I've been very impressed with both it's accuracy, and the penetration of that round. Last time out near this area in video... found a piece of steel tubing that was dented by shots from large handgun caliber rounds that were probably just lead rounds. The little 17grain copper rounds pierce thru that same steel pipe! And it was maybe...3mm thickness I'd guess? And a diameter of like 1.5inch. I was surprised the little .17 bullets actually pierced thru that steel. And they did so at 100yds. Also shot thru a deer scapula bone I found nearby. Went thru the thickest part of that bone no problem.

Just a Lepai 2020. :)

In a track, I agree. My experience with track riding is more limited. Lotsa others reasons why too. MB5 on the back, and that track was more hard pack. If I remember, needed to redo the sag and tighten her up a bit too. So she wasn't sharp in the turns like she should be. Didn't feel quite right on the sand-whoops in the valley floor either. Usually I can blitz those full-on, but she was "off". She wasn't hooking up all that great since in that track either since those MB5 tires are more for the soft stuff of the valley floor. We trail rode to get there from over in the valley, not like we parked at the track with the truck. And had been quite awhile since I rode her or did any track stuff. Had a crash that morning too. Nothing major. No big deal. But whenever you've been away from it awhile ya gotta hop back on and do a lotta riding to get the confidence level back. At least I do. Also... there is a big difference in how you ride if their is a purpose or goal... like if you knew you were gonna try a GP or H & H in a couple months or something. I'm not gonna risk her biting me and teaching me (another) lesson just because I was foolish enough to ride her past my own point of fatigue. You do that with a K5 and you earn yourself some more Titanium. At any rate... she has a new home now. I shattered my clutch wrist while hunting in 2015. It's not been quite the same since. And the bigger thing is my vision took a major nose dive since then. I have to wear glasses all the time now, unfortunately. Optometrist told me that yeah... about 45yo or even less nowadays. She says it's all the darn looking at screens we do. Me being software engineer since forever, that doesn't help either, further compounds that problem. Anyhoo, take care brother. Rubber side down.

TheGDizzo there are plenty of videos on youtube of people that can ride a KX 500 to its potential, Sean Collier and Destry Abbot are just two. I am not being rude but what I said was a fact. You are not using the bikes engine and that has nothing to do with set up, it has to do with the fact that a KX 500 is a very powerful bike and just because you can open a bike like a KX 500 up on a straight section does not mean you can ride it properly. You would go faster on a 250f in my opinion and you just need to accept that you don't have the skills to use a KX 500 on a track like this, remember the KX500 is a Motocross bike. Take the criticism, don't make excuses.

Actually... yes... you are being rude. But doesn't matter, it's a moot point. My vision doesn't allow riding a bike like a K5 anymore. And the other funny thing is you making those statements off vids. SMDH It's a vid of me tooling around for leisure for goodness sake. And while K5's are "Motocross" bikes, their claim to fame is doing Baja and Outdoor GP's because their Geometry lends itself well to blasting thru the rough stuff without being "busy" like my '97 RM250 was in the rough stuff.