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Sounds good. Remember to go low and slow when learning new techniques. I know everyone has a different preference for hitch cord length, but I really love 28 inches.

@@davidanderson5736 Will do and thanks for the tips!🙂

Hi Luka, I'm having trouble understanding your questions. Can you try me in Spanish or Italian maybe?

That's a Yale Phantom and the diameter is 11 mm. The rope wrench is the most adjustable device for rope diameters. I have climbed on 8 mm to 11.7 mm. You have to adjust your friction cord and hitch carefully for smaller diameters.

People do use a croll with a rope wrench, yes. The trick is getting it to fit in your system. If done properly it will help you keep your posture more upright.

@@davidanderson5736 nice. I was thinking of getting a full body harness with a croll built in as part of my hunting setup. Tired of people stealing my stands. Something that fits in a backpack is very attractive

Hola! Estás trepando con un sistema "cuerda en movimiento" (DdRT o MRS), o en sistema de cuerda estática (SRS o SRT). Me parece que es el primero, que usa la polea hitch climber, dos mosquetones, y el cordino. Tenemos varios videos en el canal sobre el sistema y los cordinos. Acá son algunos: ua-cam.com/video/MC3Ft52eD2k/v-deo.htmlsi=WJs-B8VY-f6eu9kK , y acá ua-cam.com/play/PLDqgLUNNkJcthblwW-110qWXMQxHuHneM.html

Thank you very much! Great thing to hear in the morning.

Actually it's the opposite. Because the hitch cord remains in contact with the rope but slides down the rope, the hitch cord will eventually wear out. The rope is fine.

Where did you learn all this tree surgeon lessons you teach us? From books? UA-cam? I want to learn more , but some of your videos are in spanish , no idea what are you saying, even the subtitle is in spanish

Hola! Tenemos videos que traten ese tema. Acá está el playlist para tutoriales in español ua-cam.com/play/PLDqgLUNNkJcthblwW-110qWXMQxHuHneM.html y acá un video sobre los cordinos de fricción ua-cam.com/video/Mrye-dhO7IQ/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared

That is a GREAT question. Always test your climbing system before ascending. Install the Rope Wrench, pulley, friction knot, and carabiner. Remove the rope wrench from the rope, and with the carabiner attached to your harness, take a jump up and fall. The know should catch immediately and firmly. If it doesn't, retie the friction hitch. Once you have a hitch you trust, reinstall the rope wrench and climb. I always like to climb a few feet (like six) and then rest in the system to make sure everything is holding.

The Rope Wrench allows ascent, descent, and lateral movement, all on the same device. Most mechanical devices are for ascent only (like hand-held ascenders) or descent only (like a GriGri), and are not approved for lateral (side to side) movements. Climbing on a Wrench is fluid, safe, efficient. You get to go any direction - up, down, sideways - whenever you want. Climbing on a system where you have to switch between devices to go up, down, up, down, etc. is awkward, inefficient, and dangerous.

Well, thank you! We are always looking for more opportunities to teach.

Some people use this system for all of their tree access, but you always need a lanyard or flipline also. Some climbers use this system to access the tree, then use MRS (or DdRT) for lateral movements. But yes, this will get you anywhere.

Hola! Muyyy buena pregunta. Normalmente el cordino mide 2 mm menos que la cuerda, pero tiene mucho que ver con el material en la chaqueta de ambos. Hay veces que uso un cordino de 10 mm en una cuerda de 10 mm, si la fricción entre los dos es adecuado. Hay combinaciones de cuerda y cordino que no funcionan bien. Tengo como tres marcas de cordinos en diferentes diámetros y largos.

@@davidanderson5736 muchísimas gracias! Tendré como referencia esos 2mm e iré probando según su materialidad. Gracias nuevamente!!

Hey GreenTeal - Glad you like what we got going on in Colombia. Is there any way you can support this effort? Like it says in the text we have to raise the money every year we host the event. Kevin and the other instructors poor their hearts into this training so we can change the lives of our students and rewrite the future of conservation. You can make a difference!

Hello, in the text of the video there are links where you can buy the products. Did you try those? That's the best place to start.

That is one of the best features of a rope wrench: it is more compatible with ropes of different sizes and materials than any other device. I have climbed on ropes as small as 10 mm without a problem.

Pulling on the rope wrench takes a little more umpf than some other devices but it isn't a problem at all.

Tim, That rope is the Yale Phantom and I LOVE that rope. It is light weight, flexible (good for knots), low stretch (makes climbing more efficient, especially tall trees), and feels good in the hand. David

Amen to you guys. Climbing trees for conservation is doubly fun. The gadget you are asking about is called a hitch breaker. They are slick. It's like converting a friction hitch into a mechanical device. Mine are made by Big Jim Pavlicin. Type "Big Jim Hitch Breaker" into Google and you will find them.

Kryton, this is a great question, honestly. In tree climbing we only use one access line to get into the tree. Sometimes we have lanyards and secondary ropes, but for ascending and descending it's on a single rope. Any time we work with any type of a blade - chainsaw, handsaw, pruning sheers, knife - it's best practice to have two points of attachment. Trees have a complicated structure and trying to manage two ropes simultaneously can introduce more danger than safety. In some European countries the regulatory commissions are introducing a 2-rope standard, and it's unwelcome oversight. All of this stresses the importance of constant rope inspection and hyper-vigilant maintenance. Thanks for the question - David.

@@davidanderson5736 Hello David, thanks for the answer! Yes, two ropes seems impractical. I had the rope wrench itself on my mind. If that prusik fails or slips, you are dead I guess. That makes me feel antsy. I was thinking about adding something like Petzl ASAP above the rope wrench (on the same rope). I know it would be out of intended usage, but I am just trying to find something to feel safer while learning.

@@kryton7687 the rope wrench is the one tool that is applicable to more climbing ropes than any other. The test I show in the video is to verify the knot is correctly tied to prevent slipping. If slipping is a concern of yours, simply tie a slip knot every 6 feet or 2 m below you; if you slip or lose control out of fear, you will hit the knot and your descent is stopped.

Calicheeeee! Gusto en saludarte! ¡Viva Colombia!

Thanks Angela! We try to be thorough and explain things well.

Wow. That's a great question. I haven't tried using two foot ascenders but I should give it a go. It would change your body movement totally because you would have to lift both feet at once. That was a style in the old days when we climbed on hand-held ascenders (Jumars) and it worked well then. I think that having one foot and one knee ascender makes it easier to step off on branches. It's worth me trying out the two foot ascenders so I can can answer this question in the future.

Thanks Stefan. I should try that and see how it works. David