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Don't try this with a 2 cycle engine. you will end up with a cylinder that is out of round caused by the intake and exhaust ports. And please don't ask me how I know this. Bad memories, but a lesson learned.

you just messed that jug up now your going to have to pay for a new piston and another one and to have someone that has a clue as to what they are doing bore that out for you

I thought I was the only one who had to build the engine 4 times take the clutch and oil filter off and fitting after you close the cases. Those kick starts are weak too so make sure it's seated correctly on the knock pin.

Wrong in so many ways

For the benefit of anyone who is not an engineer, this is NOT boring a cylinder. A hone is only intended to remove a very small amount of material, just enough to remove the turning marks, or to cut through the glazing of an already worn bore so that the surface will retain an oil film once again. A hone will not retain either the roundness or an accurate diameter over the length of the bore. Lastly a cheap vernier caliper is not accurate enough to set a finished diameter on a bore comparator or telescopic gauge.

So on my moped scooter, I have inspected my cylinder bore. And it looks a lil scored. Can honing the cylinder help with oil running out so fast and getting past those rings? Lmk if you have any answers. Thank you much mahalos. 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

Thumbs down on that annoying background noise.

is normal for the cylider to be wider at the top because of the piston rings ....

why would you post the video the whole way putting it together and then post everything that went wrong at the end? ridiculous

This video just got you a new sub ! Thanks for posting and teaching

This is honing not boring.

Looks great

I’m doing the same thing.

Hi there, I know this is an old video now but I’ve got a cd175 to rebuild at some point. Thank you for showing the fails as it’s a great help for the lessons learned and what not to do 👍👍

For your future engine build ups use much less gasket sealer. Using too much will not seal the gaskets any better but will potentially contaminate the oil passages. A little goes a long way.

There would have been taper in the cylinder when you measured the wear in the bores. With a spring-loaded hone it would be more difficult than with a rigid hone but by spending more time wherever you need to remove more material you can even it out without trimming the stones. I worked in a small decades ago and we didn't have all the fancy machines they have now and even with a rigid hone we still had to even out the bores. Nice job!

We own an original ''Rod Father '' designed Rod . One of his last builds !

it's honing not boring. two different operations.

They do make a manual hone for this purpose. It is cauld a ridged hone.differant sizes.differant stone grit. What you are using is a deglazing hone. Wrong .works ok for std bore or the same oversize bore.but not for 10 thousand metal removal

That must have been a LOT of honing to get that much material removed. But, I LOVE the "can do" attitude! Whatever it takes-make it happen!

Just about to re-assemble my 400 twin top end with the crankcase still in situ and wondered how difficult it was going to be to drop the barrels back down over the pistons rings. It looks like yours went on with no hassle with no need for any piston ring compressors. Perhaps I should have saved my money buying them. Very clear video, Thank you.

Wrong 100% terrible job

Did you manage to set a constant piston to wall clearance with this method on both cylinders? If so within what tolerance of each other?

Cool music

...thanks for the info video...and not charging $75, usd for it...

Parabens estes comentarios ai negativos saos pesssoas que nao entende de nada porque este procedimento dar certo sim...parabens

So how do you calculate the piston to wall clearance

Boring and Honing are different! This isn't boring but is still boring.

Time waistng procedure, just get it bored and finished to size, draging a hone up and down a barrel 40,000 times dosnt make sense nor will it ever give you the correct size or bore finish .

That’s the best boring thing I’ve seen all day. Thanks.

You have skills with measuring instruments for sure, but the main issue is a hand hone is to much human and to little machine to make a machine ? When the measurements along the bore showed a variances , you adjusted things for a round cylinder hole but how is it perpendicular ? Or how critical does that have to be ?

I also want to thank you for posting these videos. The detail is fantastic! And I really enjoy the humor lol. Im slowly rebuilding a CB175 (my first rebuild), and this is some of the best info I have found - so thanks!

Just wanna say these videos have been IMMENSELY helpful with my engine rebuild. Thank you so much for posting! First time working on my engine and I don’t know how I would’ve done it so far without these.

uh i would put rags in crankcase when installing circlips

Dear M&H. Do you know of good parts sources for this bike ? I have one to get back on the road. Especially wiring. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I need to replace the gear shifter shaft on my 175 so was glad to see how it is done. Clutch nut removal tool about to be ordered!

Very cool video

Were the cylinders still pretty round before honing? I have several older Briggs engines and they've worn the cylinders oblong. Will honing take that out or do I just need to bore it?

Priceless information- thank you for sharing this!

What you need is a rigid hone.

How did you get it so clean? I hot tanked mine and scrubbed it but its still nowhere near as clean as yours. Did you use an ultrasonic parts cleaner?

This person is incompetent, and it shows glaringly. Spring loaded deglazing "hones" should not be used to enlarge a cylinder for oversize pistons. Pistons should be measured with a micrometer not a caliper. I have a dial bore gauge 0.00010", micrometers 0.00010", and a set hone with diamond stones. I also have a boring bar that bolts to to the deck of the engine block, and yes the decks have to be surfaced square with the aligned bore of the mains and perpendicular to the mains squared with a machinists level. If the decks are off so will the bore job. For a small engine like this motorcycle I use the diamond stone set hone to "bore out" the cylinder (no more than ~0.020" or 0.050 mm). If a small engine needs more than 0.020 (this is usually the first oversize) I send it out, since my bolt on boring bar won't work on such a small engine deck. My drill press mounted set hone, and deck mounted boring bar when done right cannot cause curved cylinders because their travel up and down is linear. Curved cylinders can be in tolerance for taper, size, and round not elliptical bores, yet can be what is known as banana shaped. Some machines made for machine shops and fast production have heads that travel on an arc. There is compensation for the up/down arc, but if this detail is not set up right the machine will transfer the arc to the cylinder being bored/honed hence the term banana shaped cylinder.

So the TL:DW version is this is not boring, and no you can't bore with a drill. I just save you 5:02.

Omg I was having that problem when it was boring unevenly.

how do you get the lifter pins out mine are rusted and super stuck

Mind sharing where you got the seat from?